Leaving Sel, the trail continues to wend through fields of wheat, barley and rye, down ancient King's trails, through primeval pine forests dotted with wild mushrooms, and past holy healing wells. This is still the enchanted homeland of Peer Gynt. Up and down–and up again–you climb to mountaintops offering eagle-view panoramas. All the while you're surrounded by an abundance of wildlife, from the tiniest tundra wildflower, to wild raspberries the size of California strawberries, to wayward sheep and elusive deer, elk–and yes, even moose. 

Perhaps the most fascinating part of this journey occurs after a cozy night's stay at Budsjord, a recreation of the 14th century bishop's farm. The Dovre plateau, or Dovrefjell, at nearly 3280-feet (1000-meters), stands in stark contrast to the bucolic valley below. Suddenly you're walking in another world, across a tundra-like landscape, vibrant with minute, delicate wildflowers, spongy lichen and the occasional musk ox. 

Here the trail is marked with the now familiar St. Olav's Way crest. However, now it is painted onto slate grey slabs thrust into the earth, instead of the usual naturally faded (often hard to see) wooden poles. 

You ford swollen rivers, hopping from stone to stone. At points where the trail becomes sponge-like and soaked, log bridges carry you across the bog high and dry. My LEKI walking sticks were especially handy, helping me ford streams, balance across those bridges, and preventing a near free-fall off a mountainside. Still, the weather is completely unpredictable and a force with which to be reckoned.

When I began the trail in early August, I was surprised to have three blistering days of nearly 90ºF (30º+C). This is rare in Norway, with a latitude similar to Alaska. Then two weeks later, on Dovrefjell, I was face-to-face with sleet and near-freezing winds. Snow already blanketed the surrounding cratered mountaintops and it felt like winter--in August.

Yet that is one of the beauties and challenges of this trek. You need to be prepared for almost anything--and improvisation is key to having a good time. Why? Much of this experience is slightly unpredictable.

If the trail maddeningly disappears (as it often does) because the path is overgrown or a snowplow has knocked over the signpost, you either do a little orienteering and create your own way across fields, thickets, bog or over fences–or simply find a local to set you on the right path. Thankfully, most speak very good English.

Also, Norwegian villages are unlike typical European towns with a café, pub, bank, bakery, market and hotel that you pass every few hours when walking. In Norway, a village is typically a collection of farms, or gårds, some absolutely huge, with a charming historic church. So besides the few mid-sized cities along the way, like Otta or Oppdal, it can be a long hike between stores. I learned to carry about three days of provisions with me at all times.

Still, even then, I ran out. On several occasions locals were kind enough to give me food or water. All I had to do was ask and everyone was anxious to help. Yes, they may more reserved than Americans are, but if you make the first move, they're friendly, gracious, curious and very trusting.

In fact, there were several instances when I phoned to make a reservation for the following evening and my host told me that they would be away--but I would find the key in the door. 

Although August is the end of their season, folks were accommodating, and some even willing to negotiate their price. Between very affordable camping cabins (averaging $25), more luxurious bed and breakfasts, some of the finest youth hostels you'll find anywhere, and stays in historic sites, farms or in free, rustic pilgrim's huts, you'll be covered. Just phone ahead at least a day in advance for reservations.

The "Overnattingsguiden," a lodging guide available from the Pilgrimskontoret (Pilgrim's Office) in Oslo is invaluable to finding those lodging gems along the way.

From Dovrefjell and Hjerkinnhø, the highest point at 3900 feet (1200 meters), it's nearly all downhill to the fjord and famed Nidarosdom in Trondheim. It has been the site of several churches over the centuries, dating back to 1031 when the first wooden chapel was constructed over St. Olav's grave. Today its stately gothic cathedral is Norway's "Westminster Abbey" where kings and queens are crowned. 

As I arrived, weary after 25 days on the trail, an organ recital was held under the gaze of its 10,000-piece stained-glass rose window. However I was anxious to duck out of the rain, so I headed over to the pilgrim's office nearby where they presented me with a certificate for completing the journey. Then the Archbishop, eager to hear about my experiences, personally led me to their pilgrim's room for complimentary stew, hot coffee and a pastry. 

Although it was just what I needed on a chilly, wet Norwegian day, nothing was quite as satisfying as traveling this way, one-step-at-a-time. It makes all the difference. You slow down and live all the nuances that you would otherwise miss along the way. 

Plus, I like to think of walking as a "trampoline for the mind." After you place your body on "auto-pilot," your mind and soul are free to set off on travels of their own. You travel without–while traveling within. And, to me, that seems like one unbeatable companion fare.

Sidebar

When To Go

May-August is the optimum trekking season, otherwise plan on snow, rain and shorter days. A popular time to walk the trail is late July when many arrive in Trondheim for "Olav Wake" and the cultural festivities that continue for a week afterward. For details visit: http://www.nidarosdomen.no/english

How To Get There

There are many flights from the US and Canada to London or Amsterdam, your easiest gateway cities. From London, you can catch a budget flight to Oslo on Norwegian Airlines or Ryan Air, or KLM from there or Amsterdam. Trains and buses leave frequently from Trondheim to Oslo for your return.

How Long Does It Take

23-30 days to trek it in one stretch. Or take as long as you wish. 

How Much To Budget

Norway has one of the world's highest standards of living. At bare minimum, budget $40-50US a day. It may be less if you carry your own tent. You can camp anywhere outside city limits as long as you're at least 492 feet (150 meters) from a house, fence, or boundary and stay no more than two nights. But this will limit your chance of meeting locals.

For Further Information

• Pilgrim Road to Nidaros by Alison Raju, 2001, Cicerone Press, England
• Pilegrimsleden Gjennom Eidsvoll by Tron Hummelvoll, 2003, and
• Pilegrimsleden Gjennom Stange og Hamar by Tron Hummelvoll, 2004 are helpful 4-color guides in Norwegian for two sections of the trail with brief English summaries
• Overnattingsguiden is an indispensable lodging guide; all available from the Pilgrim's Office in Oslo
• Confraternity of St. James (Pilgrim's Office), Kirkegaten 34A, 0190 Oslo phone: 22.33.03.11; email: pilegrim@pilegrim.no; http://www.pilegrim.no

This was the fourth such pilgrimage trek for Brandon Wilson, author of Yak Butter Blues-A Tibetan Trek of Faith. Relive their journey, as he and his wife Cheryl, accompanied by their Tibetan horse, become perhaps the first Western couple to hike an ancient pilgrimage trail 1000-km. from Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu. For a sample chapter, photos, music, links, and other pilgrimage trek information, visit http://www.YakButterBlues.com.