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Retiring In Panama
An Update From Hemingway's Hideaway
By William Hemingway
As we have been receiving many inquiries asking us when “Retiring in Panama”, was written - Click Here - we’ve decided that perhaps it was time to revise it.  There have been many changes since we wrote the article when we retired and as Paul says, “here’s the rest of the story”. Okay, we’ve been retired five years, so now what? A lot of water has passed under the bridge and we look back to see what has occurred and what we expect to happen in and around our beautiful highland west slope community.

As there are many articles and inter-net sources including our www.hemingwayhideaway.com  to tell us how great Panama is, we will just cover the changes and additions that have occurred and what we expect to happen that may affect you as a retiree or having a second vacation home in Panama.

Location

For those who are not familiar with Panama, Volcan is a small highland community located in western Panama at 4500’ (1360 Meters) on the west slope of 11.398’ dormant Volcano Baru 10 miles east of the Costa Rica border. It is agriculture and dairy region surrounded by cloud forest and scenic beauty.

Climate

The mean temperature remains within a mere 20-25 degrees Fahrenheit day or night (55-75), all year! The humidity varies 25-35% (45% dry season, 70-80% wet season). Because there are no extreme variations of temperatures and humidity, it is not only comfortable, but reduces the chance of getting sick and lessons the affects of many ill’s. 

This unique climate is only in this particular area and in no other part of Panama including other popular retirement areas. Since we are below hurricane alley, we have neither hurricanes nor tornadoes.

We recently had a visitor who went to Russia in the 90’s for acute arthritis treatment cause he was almost paralyzed from neck to ankles. They not only saved his life but he is still very agile with no reoccurrence since. 

Not only is this interesting, but when he told the doctors he was from Panama, the doctor showed him a world map and pointed to Volcan, telling him that their studies indicated that Volcan was not only the best place to live but a good location for rest homes and a hospital for arthritic and other related illnesses. 

The Quest

In 1999, Volcan was 90% compliant on our retirement wish list.
With the advent of Direct TV, internet, health insurance and many others, it is 99%, only lacking perhaps a Home Depot or Lowe’s.

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Volcan population has almost doubled and the American community tripled. 
There are many new stores and conveniences. 

Lodging and Dinning

For the first couple years, we offered lodging and dining as part of our relocation and orientation package.Because there are now many good hotels and places to dine, we have discontinued this service. It has taken a while, but with customer feed back, we have came up with very short list of hotels for our explorers. In Panama City, we recommend the Sevilla Suits. This hotel is centrally located near shops, restaurants movies and transportation. These suits consist of bedroom, sitting-dining area and kitchenette. They have a cyber café, gym and pool. For dining, may we suggest Martin Fierros Steak house a few hundred feet to the right as you come out the hotel. Two blocks behind the hotel is the Via Espana shopping district.

For Volcan, we suggest Hotel Bambito resort located in a naturalist area with bar, restaurant, heated pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and tennis courts.

For those visiting Hemingway Hideaway and using our related services, we have set up a special discount with both of these hotels that include tax and breakfast. 

International Transportation

Many international airlines serve Panama and if you’re a retired Panama resident, there is a 25% discount on all flights originating in Panama. For those coming via Costa Rica, the flight from San Jose to David was discontinued. However there is a simple way for those coming from Costa Rica. Besides by bus (not recommended), SANSA airlines has several daily flights to Coto 47, which is a landing strip near the Panama Border.

From there, it is only 25 minutes by taxi to Paso Canoes on the Panama boarder.

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You will have to purchase a $5 tourist card and show $500 in USD, to prove you have means of support while in Panama. 

Unfortunately, Chadwhick Travel closed shop a few years back and we now deal with David Travel. You may wish to plan your itinerary and purchase your international tickets through this agency as they still do business the old fashion way, by responding directly in person rather than trying to talk to a computer. What you find on the internet does not necessarily mean that it is the most economical. They do handle E-tickets.  Jose and his wife Anavilma are both bi-lingual and they can be reached via e-mail: vdavid@cwpanama.net. Or you can call them direct (from the US) 011-507-774-1124 or fax at 011-507-774-1644.

Upon arrival at Tocumen International, we can have you met by our bilingual driver and taken to your hotel. His fairs are less than a taxi and they can also provide Panama City touring. For first time visitors and late arrivals, we feel it import to use this service. 

Local Transportation

We have had second thoughts about those wanting to drive or take a bus. Sure it’s great to see the scenery but most visitors get here so tuckered out that they are not much interested in anything accept rest. They also waste two precious days on the road rather than exploring. If you’re tight on time, fly and rent a car in David.

Aero Perlas has three; daily flights to David (Sunday, two flights). For information, prices, schedule and ticket purchase on line, go to: http://www.tacaregional.com/aeroperlas/ing/apitinerarios.html Flights depart Albrook Field ten minutes from down town Panama and not from Tocumen International. Check in time is one hour before scheduled departure. 

Cost Of Living

As ever where, prices have gone up and especially for land which has doubled in the last five years. Regardless, they are much less than in many other popular retirement areas. Prices will increase drastically over the next few years as more baby boomers abandon “the home land” to find their piece of paradise.  As elsewhere, energy prices impact everything. However, it is still a good deal, even on a modest pension. The basics are now about $800 a month. Our electrics averages $75 a month (with the 25% retirement discount) and we use a lot of electricity. Gas is $2.30 and diesel 50 cents less per gallon. Restaurants and commodities remain abut the same. 

Retirement Benefits

Panama by far has the most generous retirements benefits offered anywhere and they are not about to change like our western neighbor. There are those who worry that this may happen in Panama but very unlikely. One must remember that these liberal benefits were created for the Panamanian retiree and not specifically for foreigners and we as guest, reap this golden harvest of savings. 

The government encourages foreign retirement in Panama because they understand that the economic trickle down affect goes to the lowest level and impacts the countryside (know as the interior) far greater than tourism. It would not be far fetched to say, that close to a million dollars goes into the Volcan economy annually from our x-pat community. 

Real Estate

You do not have to be a resident to buy and own property in Panama. There is no yearly property tax on land declared under $20,000 which is generally the case in rural areas.  The tax exempt status for new residential construction has been changed from 20 to 15 years which is still not to shabby. Possessor rights (un-titled) land purchases do not have to be a hazard if one goes through a properly licensed real estate agent. Unfortunately, this is a “shady” area and there have been many rip off’s. There are many ad-hoc un-licensed cottage industries illegally dealing in real estate. There are also direct sales by those thinking they can save a “buck” by doing it themselves but cannot begin to imagine the complications that arise later because they had no understanding of the language nor the legalities involved. 

Make sure that anyone you deal with has a real estate license in their name and that they are a “Corridor de Bienes Raices”. Belonging to a Real estate association does not constitute having a license.  For those thinking about jumping on the real estate band wagon, operating without an officially sanctioned license, can result in fines up to $20,000 for each offense. 

Hemingway Hideaway S.A is fully licensed and sanctioned by the Panama government as a real estate agent. We have many listings scattered around the highlands that we will be glad to show you by request. 

Besides individual lots and farms, we offer 1/4 & 1/2 acre parcels for those wishing a complete package of home and lot in a quite semi-residential area, inter-mixed with the locals. These scenic lots are located in the same area as seen in the picture of Volcano Baru under “Location”.

In the works, is the Vista del Rio, a proposed 8 home community project with each home almost a half acre. This is a very scenic area over looking the Old Chiriqui river with the magnificent Volcano Baru to the east and the Cerro Pando mountain tropical rain forest to the west. It will have improved roads, side walk, lawns minimal landscape, buried power as not to block the incredible view, walking path with benches, fence and pine trees along the river. Our goal is to offer a true American community with all it's amenities as in the US. These are not track homes as each will be custom built and complement each other. 

This will be a semi-gated community. In other words, there will be a care taker cottage as you drive into the area. This has the advantage of providing a form of security without causing gated community problems as in other places in Panama. 

Rentals

Because we live in a developing area, there are not many medium term comfortable rentals available. What is available requires a sense of adventure. There are many fine B&B's and hotels but are too costly for the long stay. We receive many requests for rentals from those wanting "test the waters" or while we build their home and we do not have enough good homes for lodging.  There is a desperate need for quality, short & mid term rentals which could be a good business opportunity. Please feel free to contact us if you wish to peruse this aspect.

Visas

Tourist

A $5 tourist card is required to enter Panama. This card is available at your international airport of departure or at the boarder crossing immigration office. If you plan to apply for any class of visa, you must first enter the country on a tourist card. When the application process is finished, you tourist card is surrendered to immigration and a permanent resident card issued. 

All resident visas, by law, must be applied for in Panama through a lawyer. Unlike other countries, applications are done in Panama and not through a consulate. You will only waste your time applying through a consulate. Use the consulate for authenticating documents like retirement documents. Once you have obtained a visa regardless of it’s category, you must get a multiple exit permit to come and go as you please. This is stamped in your passport, valid two years and cost $100. 

Retirement Visa (Pensionado)

As of this writing, $500 per month is still the required amount to qualify for this visa. 

Self Solvency visa or Interest bearing savings account visa. Still remains the same at $100,000. 

Small Business Investment Visa

Investment can be as low as $20,000 but you have to form a Panama registered company that employees a minimum of 3 Panamanian. 

Investment Visa

By investing a minimum of $100,000, in a existing registered Panamanian company including Hemingway Hideaway. 

The cost of visas varies depending on who is doing it. Okay, so you can get it cheaper through so and so but proceed at your own risk. Like in real estate, it is best to deal through a qualified experienced company that specializes in this business. As part of our “turn-key” solutions, we can put you in contact with an excellent company with a bi-lingual legal staff. 

Communication

Volcan is served by two dial up internet servers. One company is offering a radio link for faster speed (data use only). Cable and Wireless (our telephone company) is studying ADSL for our neighbor hood but no firm date set for installation. 

Currency

Not only are ATM machines readily available throughout Panama, there is now one in Volcan that allows us to access our U.S. account where our pension is deposited. By not having direct deposit to an off shore bank, it reduces your overseas financial profile. 

Insurance

Excellent medical insurance coverage is now available in David through a local hospital. Premiums vary with age (60-70) but average $68.00 a month for a husband and wife (Family plan).  Car insurance for PL & PD only, average $180.00  a year. Home insurance less that a $100 a year. 

Construction

Due to the lack of quality and sound construction home design and techniques, Hemingway Hideaway has branched out to fill this void and working through a professional licensed construction company to build that final dream home.  We do not build “spec homes” because they are never what the customer wants. Let’s face it. This is our last hurrah and we darn well deserve a home that fits like a good old shoe. 

There are several good websites offering thousands of home plans to choose from. Select the one you like and we will build it.  We act as liaison, translator, quality control and licensed contractor. If you are interested in building a home, we would be glad to provide a "ball park" figure by e-mail. Send us a design sketch or plan reference number for the web site. Here is a short list for home plans url’s:

www.b4ubuild.com
www.coolhouseplans.com
www.yankeebarnhomes.com
www.globalhouseplans.com
www.cottagehomeplans.com
All Hemingway Hideaway custom built homes are 90% steel. Starting with a anti-seismic foundation, 16 gage "C" channel welded steel farming and rafters, 24 gage enameled zinc roof (style optional). Stucco or simulated clap board exterior, 1/4" tinted plate glass aluminum or PVC windows. Interior, sheet rock, floors in Spanish or Italian tile, (wood optional). Oak wood cabinets with matching door and window trim.  125 Amp electrical service to fill all your needs. These homes are fire, earthquake, wind, termite and humidity resistant and the insurance companies love them. 

If you not into steel, block construction can be utilized. Stick homes (wood) are not normally available because of the shortage and high cost of pressure treated material. 

Ham Radio

Back in the old Canal Zone days, a U.S. amateur could operate in the canal zone for the first 30 days. Like many things, those days are gone and a visiting amateur wishing to operate must apply for a temporary operating license through the “Medio de Comunicaciones”. Here is a shot of the HP3XBH radio “shack” and the boring view we have from the operating position. That’s 11.398’ Baru in the back ground. Sorry, due to family expansion we are no longer offer ham shack for visiting operators. 

Investment And Offshore

In the last five years, there has been a tremendous influx of tourist and retirees from all over the world. There is no doubt, that in the very near future, Panama will surpass Costa Rica in tourism and retirement. Like the mouse following the cheese, investors are eagerly jumping on this venture band wagon. 

As in real estate, these investment opportunities are going to the “first com, first served” as choice locations for development are being gobbled up. Hemingway Hideaway is also accepting investments in various projects. 

For those seeking special off shore services, we are in contact with a reputable firm in Panama that specializes in the areas of commercial law (incorporations, commercial licenses, etc.), real estate transactions / escrow services, immigration services, and vessel (yacht/ship) registration and Re-location services.  In addition, they offer other services such as financial account opening assistance (bank, brokerage, & merchant accounts), account management, mail forwarding, contract drafting, and asset protection/estate planning/legal consulting.

Financing

After so many years of being turned down by Panama banks, they finally turned the other cheek. Financing for residential construction is now available for qualified retirees. We would be glad to assist in your application for financing if said structure is built by Hemingway Hideaway. 

Who Are We?

We retired in 1999 and moved to Volcan with my wife after working as a communication engineer 25 years in the Canal Zone for a DOD Motorola contractor. 

Having traveled to over 40 countries including all of Central America and the 50 states, we have “been there, done that” and appreciate what Panama has to offer. 

When we retired to in Volcan, there was no one offering relocation advice and all was done by trail and error (muchos errores). At that time, there were no more than a dozen x-pats. 

Since it was obvious that others needed assistance, (especially those not speaking Spanish) we decided to form Hemingway Hideaway S.A. to fill this gap.  First was consulting, followed by real estate and into building and development. We try to offer a broad based range of “under-one-roof” service from motivation, exploratory trip, lodging, transportation, legal issues, real estate and construction. In other words, 
“leave the driving to us”.

A final note of interest (if any one really cares) which might be a good subject for “Bob’s” Home improvement is an example of what can happen if you keep your goal in mind. This is “the way it was” when we first moved here. Of course there were many things we lacked and the first item on our agenda was to improve our abode. Little by little, this was accomplished and we now have a reasonable facsimile of a comfortable home. 

We will be pleased to assist you with your in-country hotel, shuttle flight and car rental reservations. 

Volcan offers a tranquil, un-congested way of life. Open space, beautiful sunsets and above all, reasonable prices. Check out the west side and you may be surprised. 

William And Sonia Hemingways' Hideaway

Box 336, Volcan, Chiriqui, R. de P.
e-mail hp3xbh@tierrasaltas.net 
www.hemingwayhideaway.com
Tel (507)771-5948
Cellular 625-8988.

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