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Dresden, Germany
The Capital Of Saxony
By Jörg M. Unger
If you are interested in German history, architecture, and art, you should decide for a journey to Dresden, Saxony - a gem among the big towns in former East Germany. The advantage of Dresden’s historic center is that all the well-known and famous buildings and squares are in walking distance, thus giving you plenty of time to visit the places of your personal interest.

The town of Dresden goes back to the Slavic settlement Drezdany and was first mentioned in a document in 1206. It became the residence of the Albertiner dukes and kings in the 15th century and the capital of Saxony in 1547. Under the reign of King August the Strong (1670 to 1733), Dresden developed to a European metropolis.

After the reunification of East and West Germany, the historical buildings were renovated and Dresden’s Frauenkirche (ladies’ church), built from 1726 to 1743, was reconstructed with national and international help and many private donations. After World War Two, its ruins were left untouched as a reminder of the Anglo-American bombings in February 1945. The reconstruction started in May 1994 with clearing the place and registering the old sandstone bricks from the ruins. Recently, the last scaffolding was removed and the dome of this church dominates the skyline of Dresden again.

After a visit to Frauenkirche, you can cross the Neumarkt (new market) and stroll along Fürstenzug (procession of princes), where you pass a building that once housed the rulers’ carriages and horses. One wall of this building shows the largest porcelain painting of the world – depicting all the Wettin princes, dukes, and kings on horseback. The picture consists of 24,000 porcelain tiles from the Meissen manufactory and covers almost 1,200 square yards.

Then you will get to Schlossplatz (castle square) and see the Cathedral of St. Trinitatis, which is with 295 feet the tallest church of Saxony and the symbol of Dresden.

Beyond the cathedral, you can visit the famous Semper Opera, a renaissance building that was opened in February 1878. If you cross the theater square, you will pass the equestrian statue of King Johann of Saxony to the right and go on through the arches of Zwinger, which certainly is Dresden’s most well-known and magnificent baroque building. August the Strong used it for representative purpose, stage performances, and concerts. Inside the Zwinger buildings, there is a mathematical-physical exhibition, King August’s armory, a large porcelain collection, and a picture gallery with several masterpieces of Raphael, Reubens, Rembrandt, Vermeer, and the German painters, Dürer, Cranach, Holbein, and others. You would need several hours, if you wanted to see all exhibits and paintings there. Another famous collection of baroque artwork can be visited in the building of Albertinum and its Grüne Gewölbe (green vault) – the treasure chamber of the Saxon kings.
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From March 1 through September 6 this year, a pricey collection of these historical artwork from Dresden was shown in Jackson, Mississippi, – made possible by the Program of International Cultural Exchange. American visitors could view, for example, the Dresden Green Diamond, a 41-carat green diamond (cut in 1769), surrounded by white diamonds, gold, and silver, and the Moor with Emerald Tray, made from pear wood, silver, gold, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, topazes, garnets, almandine, and tortoise shell in the workshop of Johann Melchior Dinglinger in the 1720s, from the Green Vault as well as the four most widely celebrated paintings from the Old Masters Picture Gallery, Rembrandt’s Samson Proposing the Riddle at the Wedding Feast, Reubens’ Diana’s Return from the Hunt, Mantegna’s The Holy Family, and Vermeer’s The Procuress. The collection also featured an ornate saddle and horse decorations from the coronation ceremony of August the Strong that originally was a gift from King Louis XIV of France, various swords, sabers, shields, and guns from the king’s armory, as well as thousands of priceless samples of the Meissen Porcelain Manufactory and works from Chinese blue and white porcelain to Japanese Imari-style porcelain from the Zwinger collection.

The Augustus Bridge next to the Cathedral of St. Trinitatis connects the historic city

center with the new part of Dresden on the right bank of Elbe. After passing the Goldenen Reiter (golden horseman), you can go left to visit the Japanese Palace that houses an ethnology museum today or follow the main street to the Albert Square and its beautiful fountains. 

South-east of the old town, the Grosse Garten (big garden) invites you for strolling through the oldest and largest park of Dresden that includes a zoo and a botanical garden. Across Lingner Square, the German Hygiene Museum displays a unique exhibition on the human body. The museum’s most famous exhibit is the “Gläserne Frau” (glass woman), a life-size, detailed model of a human being, first shown to the public in 1930. On Strassburger Square, visitors can watch the running production of Volkwagen automobiles through the glass walls of the factory, which was opened in 2001.

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After a long and extensive tour through the city, you can take a rest on Brühlsche Terasse, have a cup of coffee or tea on the banks of Elbe, and watch the paddle steamers rolling up and down the river. Beneath this terrace, you can visit the remains of the old Dresden fortress and the subterranean arms and ammunition depot of the Saxon kings. Beside traditionally German food and local specialty restaurants, Dresden also offers Italian, Spanish, Greek, Indian, and Chinese cuisine, and even has two bars in American style.

It‘s a matter of course that you can wash down your delicious Saxon dish with a genuine Radeberger beer in one of the many beer gardens along the Elbe or taste a glass of wine from the vineyards of Meissen, a place ten miles north-west of Dresden.

In the Christmas season, you should not miss a visit to Dresden’s Christmas market and taste some Striezel – also called Dresdner Stollen – a Christmas cake that looks like a loaf of bread covered with icing sugar and is filled with lots of raisins, almonds, and candied lemon peels. 

If you like milk, cheese, and other dairy products, you should visit Pfund’s Molkerei (Pfund’s dairy) on Bautzner Strasse 79. According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is the most beautiful dairy store of the world. It was opened in 1892, and the walls and ceiling are covered with hand-painted porcelain tiles of Villeroy & Boch. In the restaurant on the second floor, you can taste lots of dairy delicacies, milk shakes, and about 120 sorts of cheese.

As a city of the arts, Dresden offers lots of music events – from operas and musicals to German folk and popular music. In case, you are no opera fan, you can go to rock concerts all through the year, or visit the annual International Dixieland Festival in May, when jazz bands from all over the world give concerts on several squares, in many bars, and Dresden’s Kultur Palast (palace of culture). And in June, the Dresden Music Festival invites for concerts of classic music and stage performances.

For those visitors who like doing sports, Dresden offers many opportunities and facilities such as a public swimming center, a sports hall, a bicycle path along the river Elbe, or a twelve-mile-long skating tour through the town at night, which takes place every Friday at 9 p.m. from April to October. And those who prefer a more comfortable tour, can book a round-trip in a historical tram through Dresden.

If you have enough of sightseeing and the hustle and bustle in the city of Dresden but still sufficient time to explore the surroundings of Saxony’s capital, you should take your hiking boots and catch the next local S-Bahn train to Saxon Switzerland. The train, leaving from Platform One of Dresden’s main station every thirty minutes, will bring you to Saxony’s most popular hiking destination east of the town – an area which is full of sandstone cliffs and vertical outcroppings that look similar to some rock formations in Colorado. When the train snakes its way along the river Elbe, you will pass the renaissance castle Pillnitz and the town of Pirna with its Church of St. Mary that rises above the skyline. The next place on the opposite river bank is Wehlen, which lies on the narrow flat land between the river and the mountains, and stretches up the hills on terraces. On the banks of Elbe, some remains of an ancient castle can still be seen, which was used as a customs station. Most buildings date back to the early 20th century, when Wehlen was a refuge for Dresden’s upper class. Today some of the large houses are divided into apartments and pensions to provide accommodation for the numerous tourists who want to enjoy hiking tours through the National Park of Saxon Switzerland. From Wehlen you can follow well-marked trails through a dark beech forest to the rocks of Bastei, the most accessible and spectacular cliffs and pillars of the national park. From the top of the rock platform, you can enjoy the view of the sweeping curves of Elbe and steamboats moving up and down the river. The railroad line, tiny villages, streets, and fields one thousand feet below the rocks look like a perfectly crafted model railroad scene. On the other side of the cliffs, you can peer into deep ravines, spanned by the Bastei Bridge. Amidst the sandstone rocks and pillars, you can explore the remains of a medieval fort which once safeguarded the trade routes along the Elbe river and  dates back to the 13th century. A reconstructed catapult and some stone balls are on display and an old well can still be seen. When you walk down the footpath to the health-resort and town of Rathen, you will pass the two-thousand-seat outdoor theater Felsenbühne (stage in the rocks), which is surrounded by vertical stonewalls and rocky pillars and where theater plays and musicals are performed throughout the summer months.

After taking the ferry across the river, you can visit Fortress Königstein, one of the best–preserved medieval forts in Europe. Built in the 1400s, the unconquerable fortress was a secure refuge for Saxon kings and their treasures until the end of the Saxon monarchy in 1918. When gazing up the walls fifty feet in height, you will understand why no army ever conquered the fort that is situated on platform-like rock formation of 23.5 acre that rises about 780 feet above the banks of the river Elbe. After having gone through a heavy gate, you climb more ramps and pass a device for pouring hot pitch onto a potential enemy before you reach the plateau with the old barracks, the armory of the fortress, Castle Magdalena, the treasure vaults, and the building with a well that miners from the Erzgebirge (ore mountains) dug from 1563 to 1569 five hundred feet into the rock to supply the garrison with enough drinking water. Since the Saxon kings had always preferred drinking wine to water and got huge wine casks on Königstein, King August the Strong ordered in 1717 to build the largest wine cask of the world. It was almost 30 feet long, 22 feet in diameter, and was filled with 63,000 gallons wine in 1725 for the first time. Unfortunately a fire destroyed that masterpiece in 1819. The fortress also served as a prison, which was the most feared of Saxony.

The museum of Königstein tells everything about the history of this important fort, and when you walk along the perimeter, passing old canons, many look-outs, and the loop-holes in the battlements, you can see nearly all of Saxon Switzerland. You will discern the Bastei rocks and Lilienstein (lily stone) – one of the most prominent rock table and a two-hour walk from the ferry station in the town of Königstein that lies at the base of the fortress. You may notice many other sandstone rocks in the distance as well and will have a wonderful view of the Elbe valley with its checkered grain fields and the dark green forests left and right of the curves of the river. 

For accommodation in Dresden please visit the homepage www.dresden.de, which also provides a link “Living and Working in Dresden”. Information on places in Saxon Switzerland can be found at www.stadt-wehlen.de / www.kurort-rathen.de / www.koenigstein-sachsen.de or www.bad-schandau.de. For information about the national park, contact the information center via www.nationalpark-saechsische-schweiz.de.

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