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Holding The Line Down Under
More From New Zealand
by Candy Green
Think about the word “line” and all its applications!  This past week, while reading the newspaper and wandering around Christchurch, these thoughts have amused me. What was there to see, read and experience in this mountain top nation? A telephone line, a railway line, a tramline, a beeline, keeping kids in line, that line on the face, staying to the left of the line and, of course, the fault line. 

The third term of the school year is about to wind up. During the two-week holidays an American friend, Sonya, a journalist, will make her first visit to New Zealand. We met online over seven years ago soon after we moved here. Through chats, IMs, emails and phone calls we have become fast friends and have yet to meet face to face!


 
The Telephone Line

Just one day before she was to leave for New Zealand, in the middle of her night, Sonya called to tell me she was sitting in her darkened house in Atlanta. Hurricane Charley (or, was it Frances?) was still howling outside. We got cut off once.

A tree close to her house had fallen over and its uprooting had lifted up part of the foundation. Should she still be thinking of coming to New Zealand, she had wondered? Her parents, who were on their way from South Carolina in the pouring down rain, encouraged her to stick with her plans. I haven’t heard from her since.

As far as I know she’s made it this far and should be on the South Island in a week. I plan to join her and her friend Danielle in Kaikoura on the Saturday.

Sunday will be a quickie tour of Christchurch and Hamner Springs. Monday will be a trip on the Alpine Express over to the West Coast through Arthur’s Pass.

We will separate there and, weather permitting, I will take a bus to Punakaiki and the Pancake Rocks and hope to recapture the relaxation I felt when Thom and Dolores Hickling were here on my last holidays, just nine weeks ago. 

The weather this week has been brilliant, as we say, and the Lamb of Spring has definitely overcome the Lion of Winter…well, at least this week it seems so.

Sonya and Danielle will head south to visit Milford Sounds. Sonya produced the CNN story on Shrek, the Merino Sheep, who was recently sheared here for the first time (http://www.cnn.com/2004/WORLD/asiapcf/04/28/nz.shrek.ap/).

She is going to meet up with the bloke who did the deed down around Queenstown. He will take her fly-fishing.

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The Railway Line

This week, on the bulletin board in the school library was a news article from March 30, 1989, by Howard Keene celebrating the triumph of the rail tunnel through the Port Hills which separate Lyttelton, where I live, from Christchurch.

At the time, the article states, the tunnel was the longest rail tunnel in the world, the first to be cut through the crater wall of an ancient volcano. A plan for financing the tunnel began immediately after the first four ships of settlers arrived from England in 1850.

A rail line for transport was the settlers’ common vision as all goods had to be hauled over the steep Bridle Path (right above my house) or sailed over the often treacherous Sumner Bar. Plans for a road over the Port Hills had “gone wonky” after steep rock was encountered in one of the passes.

Problems developed with the tunnel when the diggers hit a mass of basaltic rock and the contract price of the tunnel threatened to rise.

A 36 year-old geologist named Julius von Haast figured out a scientific way to overcome the challenge. 

Haast Pass and the wee town of Haast are named after this man, who also left the city of Christchurch with its first art museum. 

While I head toward Punakaiki, Sonya and Danielle, will head south on their way to Milford Sound and will go through the Haast Pass. Haast is a world heritage area. Some of the biggest stands of rain forest in the world are there, as well as extended wetlands. 

With a 19 year-old assistant (for whom Arthur’s Pass is named) Haast “followed and pegged out each lava flow and dike along the proposed line of the tunnel, and he was able to draw cross-sections.”

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Apparently, working without any literature to help him, Haast concluded that the hard rock was of limited extent and that lava had just flowed into hollows. He determined that much of what was there was “agglomerates and ashbeds.” By 1858, with only a population of 10,000, Christchurch had a tunnel and a rail line.

The Tram Line

Christchurch has a tram. It’s a touristy thing. A “tram pass” costs $12.50 for visitors and is good for 48 hours. For residents it’s good for a year. The tram line takes you all around the city centre, rattling and clanging past the Cathedral in the Square, the new Art Museum, the Arts Centre, Victoria Square, and, finally, Regent Street.

Regent Street is one of the most unique streets in Christchurch. The tram line curves through it. No cars allowed. I had wonderful seafood chowder on Regent Street this week at a café (restaurant upstairs) called Six Chairs Missing. 

Stores with names like Moko Design Café (the owners used to live on my street before moving into the city to live over their shop), RM Williams Outback Outfitter, Tolaga Bay Cashmere Company, Artefact, Inkwell, The Blue Note, Antiquarian Natural History Books, Cubana Havana’s Finest, The Ginkgo Tree, Boxes, and, my favourite name--Pastel Shoes Dyers and Repairs. 

Yes, you can still get shoes dyed and repaired in Christchurch!

A Beeline

Look out world, here comes Buzzy Bee, a news article headline on September 5th shouts. He’s a “noisy wooden bug with a daft clicker” says Libby Middlebrook in The Press. Buzzy Bee is such a New Zealand icon I thought I had seen him before I saw him for the first time! 

Apparently, Buzzy Bee, now 61 years old and New Zealand’s favourite toy, has been sold to people who want to market him worldwide. He is going to have to be reinvented, though. They want him to be the next Thomas the Tank Engine.

But, first Buzzy Bee needs a face lift. His facial expression needs to be friendlier. But Buzzy’s not the only one! 

In the same edition of the paper Raybon Kan has a story about people over at the Beehive, New Zealand’s name for the beehive-shaped offices of government officials in Wellington. Raybon, it seems, has been talking to Dr. Bill Dorfman the dentist from the television show Extreme Makeover.

Raybon says Dr. Dorfman told him Helen Clark, the Prime Minister, and Don Brash, the Opposition leader, could use his services. They don’t have smiles he would want on himself or his wife.

Americans, Dr. Dorfman said, are used to beautiful, perfect teeth, that every single kid in America (except mine, who turned them down) has braces. Everybody whitens their teeth in America, he says. He couldn’t name four women who don’t colour their hair. There isn’t a woman over 40, who’s had children, in his circle of friends, who hasn’t had her breasts done. It’s just standard in America, Dr Dorfman says.

Please let me know this ain’t necessarily so.

Keeping Kids In Line

A 16 year-old was charged this week in Christchurch with indecent assault. I have to wonder if this kid needs braces. While waiting in line in a shopping mall to shake the hand of super-model Rachel Hunter, the lad, instead, grabbed her breast.  Maybe he needs glasses instead of braces. 

Rachel, a Kiwi, is also the estranged wife of singer Rod Stewart (coming to Christchurch in February). The boy’s defence is that he did it on a dare. Rachel was here to promote a new line of cosmetics. Not earthshaking news, but the following was.

The Fault Line

Up in Wellington, where the beehive and crooked teeth are, there are earthquakes all the time. New Zealand is, as Dave, the geophysicist once told me, “geologically unstable.”  But, this week, about the same time Sonya, was battling the hurricane, an earthquake was noticed by some in Christchurch, measuring 4.3 on the Richter (www.geonet.org.nz) and described as nearly enough to “move ornaments.” No damage reported. I didn’t feel it.

Staying To The Left Of The Line

We drive on the left in New Zealand.

Last week I got a call from my second son telling me he had had a car accident. Late the night before, he took his best friend’s family car for a spin. He was driving alone. As he crossed the causeway leading into Sumner where he lives, with the estuary on both sides, he says he saw a car approaching him in his lane. (I have to wonder if it was a confused visitor.) 

He says he swerved to avoid the other car, fish-tailed, flipped and landed right side up in three feet of water. He had to fight to get out as the car filled with water. The police said he was lucky to be alive and fined him $1000. Now, we have to replace this hardworking Cambodian refugee family’s car.

Kids! I may need Rachel’s new line of cosmetics!

That Line On The Face

In New Zealand, you must know, we are closer to the hole in the ozone layer. More powerful ultra violet rays beam down from on high. From now to the end of summer there will be much information on avoiding too much exposure to the sun. New Zealand, it seems, has the highest rate of melanoma in the world. And wrinkles may become a worry for New Zealand women as the aftershocks of Dr Dorfman’s thinking set in.

She hasn’t seemed worried before, this New Zealand woman. She seems to have enjoyed those years soaking up the sun over years of Christmas holidays at the beach. She seems to enjoy being outside participating in sports of all kinds. And if her face falls a little earlier than those in the northern hemisphere, her sunny disposition and “can do” attitude makes up for it.

Closing Lines…

On duty at lunch time, out by the entrance to the school, the soft spring sun was shining down. I dared to lift my SPF 30-less face to the sky. Another teacher stopped to chat and enjoy the warmth and the moment. I realized I really and truly don’t want to live my life according to the Gospel of Dr Dorfman. I don’t want to be afraid to squint, use expression, laugh, cry, rejoice or… put my face to the wind.

The newspaper on September 10th showed a map of the Banks Peninsula with little lines pointing to the locations for 12 yachting clubs offering lessons. “New Zealand is the greatest little yachting nation in the world,” it says. In New Zealand, a yacht refers to anything from a dinghy on up.

In the summer, which is coming soon, lines of yachts of all sizes whiz and spin and swirl in the harbour below my home. I want to join them this year. 

WOW, or Women on Water, looks like an interesting group. Fun-loving women, the “advert” says, coming from all walks of life, having a little experience of sailing or absolutely none at all.

Sounds like someone very familiar.

The following are the previous articles that Candy has written about New Zealand for the magazine:

To contact Candy Click Here

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