| The 186
foot tower is noticeably slanting. It’s amazing enough for this reason
alone, never mind the intricate arches that encircle the tower in eight
levels. You can climb the tower’s 294 steps, but we didn’t have time if
we were to make our train. It wasn’t until we were halfway to Rome that
I realized I hadn’t taken the requisite tourist photo – the one where you
position your hand just right so it looks like you’re pushing the tower
back into place. Oh well, I love a good reason to return to a place I’ve
already visited.
Rome
Entering
Rome and watching its outskirts zip by the train window was somewhat disappointing.
It
looked much like any other city – dilapidated buildings mixed in with warehouses,
apartments, hotels and other commercial buildings. Where was the history
and splendor of one of the world’s most famous cities? I couldn’t believe
that any part of Rome could look so normal.
Once we
arrived in the city center I was rewarded with my history and magnificence.
Rome somehow manages to be very cosmopolitan - it glistens with romance
and fashion - while proudly portraying its culture, its past and its age
old beauty.
One of the
first things I did in Rome, unashamedly, was eat ice cream. My traveling
friends had told me more about Italy’s ice cream than they had about Italy’s
sights. “You’re going to Italy? Oh, make sure you eat plenty of ice
cream!” I just had to know. Ice cream stores and vendors litter
the streets of Rome (and most Italian cities) and it wasn’t hard
to find ice cream at any time of the day, or night. A tour guide told us
that a favorite pastime of Italians was to meet for ice cream in the evenings
after the sun went down. He was right - they were everywhere that night,
walking hand in hand, their loud chatter interrupted only when their ice
cream cones were brought to their lips.
It’s hard
to explain how perfect Italian ice cream really is. I could say that
it melts in your mouth, but that kind of goes for any ice cream. Perhaps
it’s the way it melts with every bite, its thick creaminess filling up
every empty gap of your watering mouth. Or perhaps it’s the extravagance
of flavors available, although I somehow always came back to chocolate.
On our first
full day in Rome, we did the city tour of the essentials. We saw Trevi
Fountain with its exquisite marble statue of Neptune, the two tritons and
their horses. We sat on the Spanish Steps and wandered through the Forum
and its marble ruins which mark the spot where ancient Romans went to bank,
trade and shop. We went inside the Colosseum and stood where 50,000 spectators
would have watched gladiators fight to their death. We went to the Vatican
City and gawked at the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. We walked
to the Pantheon, its interior lighted only by a hole in its domed roof.
And once we’d seen all the things everyone else has seen, we tried to visit
a few less frequented sights.
Borghese
Park provided a perfect place to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon, Italian
style. With great views of the city and the Vatican, it’s no wonder
that both locals and tourists alike are drawn to the park to relax. Families
lounge on picnic blankets under the shade of huge trees, and couples race
by on rented bicycles. A ceremony takes place at a small church. Bioparco
(a zoo) is home to a variety of the world’s animals.
Just outside
of Rome is another of Italy’s treasures – Tivoli Gardens. Originally
dating back to the time of Hadrian, and built on the remains of a Roman
villa, Tivoli was first a Benedictine Convent and once a Governor’s Palace.
The Italian Gardens are the most famous and finest of the gardens – and
they should be with their 500 fountains and abundance of rare trees.
We walk
past lines and lines of small shrubs. Hidden behind them are water fountains,
which spray us with a welcome cool mist. A huge fountain fills a pool
housed in a stone wall decorated with colorful tiles. A succession of fountains
climbs a hill towards a marble building, punctuated only by more of the
extravagant greenery. Standing on one of the many balconies of the remaining
buildings allows for a perfect view of the enormous gardens, the fountains
within them, and the hills beyond.
Capri
From our
comfortable base in seaside Sorrento, we visit another of Italy’s jewels,
the Island of Capri. A short boat ride from Sorrento, Capri captured
my heart the moment I laid eyes on it. I’ve always been partial to islands,
but this is one of the most breathtaking I’ve had the pleasure of visiting.
The island
is six kilometers long and only two kilometers at its widest point.
Almost a more grown-up version of Cinque Terre, Capri’s buildings are also
splashed with bright color. Like Riomaggiore, the water surrounding Capri’s
port is filled with small fishing boats, and the homes and shops ascend
the rocky island.
Capri, the
island’s biggest town, has a population of only 8000. Street side cafes
fill winding streets, stands selling souvenirs lure you in, and it’s impossible
to leave the island without a taste of Capri’s Limoncella. A strong lemon
liquor, Limoncella is sold all over the island in moon shaped bottles painted
with bright yellow lemons. Vendors offer samples and it’s quite easy to
see why – once you taste it, you’re almost sure to buy. The sweetness of
the added sugar combined with the zing of the lemon leaves you thirsting
for more. Not only did I indulge in Limoncella on Capri, but I deviated
from my usual chocolate ice cream selection and had a cup of lemon ice
cream. Its tartness was refreshing on the hot day, and I definitely left
the island with a new appreciation for lemon.
Capri’s
Gardens of Augustus are worth a visit. Another gorgeous collection
of greenery, these gardens boast a colorful array of flowers as well as
shrubs and trees. Oversize orange, pink and red blossoms accent the palm
trees, small bushes, and carpets of lush grass. An Aloe Vera plant looms
twice my size.
The highlight
of the island is undoubtedly the highest point of the island – Mount Solaro.
With a height of 589 meters above sea level, you’re afforded the best possible
views of the island and its pristine sea. A chairlift will get you to the
top in less than fifteen minutes, although a walking path is available
if you want to work off some of that ice cream.
From the
peak, you’re elevated enough to see the Gulf of Naples and the smaller
island town of Anacapri. It’s hard to believe that from this dizzying
height you can still make out the sea floor through the clear water. Fishing
boats look like miniature children’s toys and the island’s limestone cliffs
look short enough to climb in one stride. In the distance, the Blue Grotto
is visible. Free standing boulders dot the sea and form a cave. The reflection
of the sunlight creates waters of indescribable blues. Boat rides into
the cave are available, although bathing in the Blue Grotto is not permitted.
Lido De
Jesolo
Many travelers
abhor the thought of staying at a resort, but once I’ve fully explored
a country and have taken in all the history, culture and sightseeing that
one can handle, I truly enjoy seeing the country from a relaxed point of
view. Lido de Jesolo is a wonderful place to soak up the sun and the
sea, and is also a great base from which to day trip. Not much more than
a collection of hotels on an average beach, the Lido’s attraction lies
in its atmosphere. Both Italians and foreigners come here to play, and
the resort never sleeps. You can get ice cream here well after midnight
- try the Straciatelli – vanilla ice cream with dark chocolate bits. You
can shop in cheap tourist stores, or expensive high street stores. You
can eat a five course meal in a fancy restaurant or grab a bite from one
of the many vendors lining the streets.
When you’ve
had enough of relaxing, two of Italy’s most famous cities are within day
trip range – Venice and Verona. Venice deserves more than just one
day, there is truly no more unique city in the world. A gondola ride, while
expensive, is absolutely necessary if you want to get a feel for the city
of canals. There is no other way to see some parts of the city.
Standing
in St. Mark’s Piazza, amidst other tourists and its huge population of
pigeons, gives you one of the best views in the entire country. St.
Mark’s Basilica, a Byzantine religious masterpiece from the 11th century,
takes center stage with its rounded arches and domes.
Verona has
a slightly more relaxed atmosphere, plenty of history and enough ice cream
to satisfy all of its hot tourists. The Opera Stadium, slightly reminiscent
of the Colosseum in Rome, still hosts open-air concerts. This Roman amphitheatre
dates from the first century AD.
Verona is
well known for the origin of a certain famous play – Romeo and Juliet.
The
two families upon which the tragedy was based resided in Verona centuries
ago. Everyone flocks to the building that sits where Romeo’s family once
lived – now the site of a rather modern looking tall brick building. More
interesting is Juliet’s house. The entrance way boasts a stone wall covered
in lover’s graffiti. It’s considered more a piece of art than a sign of
disrespect.
Inside the
courtyard of the small house stands a bronze statue of Juliet. Her
right breast is brighter than the left; it is considered good luck to rub
her right breast and millions of tourists’ hands have worn it away. Best
of all is the stone balcony that protrudes from the second floor. It’s
easy to picture Juliet standing there in wait for her Romeo.
The following
is a list of articles that Dawnelle has written for the magazine:
To contact Dawnelle
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