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One of Riomaggiore’s most endearing qualities is the type of accommodation available. Fully furnished apartments and houses are for rent; both long and short term. What this means is that you can take advantage of the fully equipped kitchen to prepare your own meals using the freshest Italian ingredients. After depositing our bags at our rented house, which consisted of a smallish kitchen and bathroom with a huge four bed bedroom, we headed out in search of a grocery store. We entered the first grocery store that we came upon, and we weren’t disappointed. Huge cloves of garlic hung from the ceiling, endless bottles of olive oil lined the shelves and fresh bread overflowed from round straw baskets. We lingered over bags of outrageously shaped pasta before finally settling on long, curly tubes. The smell of fresh fish permeated the air and we purchased a mixture of seafood that the shopkeeper was unable to translate into English. It didn’t matter – it was all delicious. After satisfying our appetites, a little exploring was in order. We left our house and walked randomly up and down the precipitous narrow streets. I don’t think we encountered one street with less than five sets of stairs. Elaborate doors peek out from behind vine covered arches and potted plants line entire streets. Eventually we came upon a platform overlooking the sea and stopped to catch our breath. Far below, sheer black rock meets the blue water in a frenzy of crashing white waves. We had to see it up closer. Riomaggiore
is tiny enough to wander around without the worry of getting lost, and
we soon arrived at the rocky beach – just in time for sunset. A long wooden
wharf runs out to the sea. Fishing boats are piled on the wharf, and more
boats tied to it bob gently on the sea. The water here is calmer thanks
to the coastline’s bay shape and a small outcropping of rocks a short distance
from the shore. Locals and tourists scramble for a place to watch the daylight
fade.
Although not far from the train station, the tower isn’t particularly well sign posted and we’d have walked right past it if I hadn’t glanced to my right at a crucial time. The tower, and several other impressive buildings, are situated behind a tall stone wall and arched entranceway. The 186 foot tower is noticeably slanting. It’s amazing enough for this reason alone, never mind the intricate arches that encircle the tower in eight levels. You can climb the tower’s 294 steps, but we didn’t have time if we were to make our train. It wasn’t until we were halfway to Rome that I realized I hadn’t taken the requisite tourist photo – the one where you position your hand just right so it looks like you’re pushing the tower back into place. Oh well, I love a good reason to return to a place I’ve already visited. Rome Entering Rome and watching its outskirts zip by the train window was somewhat disappointing. It looked much like any other city – dilapidated buildings mixed in with warehouses, apartments, hotels and other commercial buildings. Where was the history and splendor of one of the world’s most famous cities? I couldn’t believe that any part of Rome could look so normal. Once we arrived in the city center I was rewarded with my history and magnificence. Rome somehow manages to be very cosmopolitan - it glistens with romance and fashion - while proudly portraying its culture, its past and its age old beauty. One of the
first things I did in Rome, unashamedly, was eat ice cream. My traveling
friends had told me more about Italy’s ice cream than they had about Italy’s
sights. “You’re going to Italy? Oh, make sure you eat plenty of ice cream!”
I just had to know. Ice cream stores and vendors litter the streets of
Rome (and most Italian cities) and it wasn’t hard to find ice cream at
any time of the day, or night. A tour guide told us that a favorite pastime
of Italians was to meet for ice cream in the evenings after the sun went
down. He was right - they were everywhere that night, walking hand in hand,
their loud chatter interrupted only when their ice cream cones were brought
to their lips.
Borghese Park provided a perfect place to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon, Italian style. With great views of the city and the Vatican, it’s no wonder that both locals and tourists alike are drawn to the park to relax. Families lounge on picnic blankets under the shade of huge trees, and couples race by on rented bicycles. A ceremony takes place at a small church. Bioparco (a zoo) is home to a variety of the world’s animals. Just outside of Rome is another of Italy’s treasures – Tivoli Gardens. Originally dating back to the time of Hadrian, and built on the remains of a Roman villa, Tivoli was first a Benedictine Convent and once a Governor’s Palace. The Italian Gardens are the most famous and finest of the gardens – and they should be with their 500 fountains and abundance of rare trees. We walk past lines and lines of small shrubs. Hidden behind them are water fountains, which spray us with a welcome cool mist. A huge fountain fills a pool housed in a stone wall decorated with colorful tiles. A succession of fountains climbs a hill towards a marble building, punctuated only by more of the extravagant greenery. Standing on one of the many balconies of the remaining buildings allows for a perfect view of the enormous gardens, the fountains within them, and the hills beyond. Capri From our comfortable
base in seaside Sorrento, we visit another of Italy’s jewels, the Island
of Capri. A short boat ride from Sorrento, Capri captured my heart the
moment I laid eyes on it. I’ve always been partial to islands, but this
is one of the most breathtaking I’ve had the pleasure of visiting.
Capri’s Gardens of Augustus are worth a visit. Another gorgeous collection of greenery, these gardens boast a colorful array of flowers as well as shrubs and trees. Oversize orange, pink and red blossoms accent the palm trees, small bushes, and carpets of lush grass. An Aloe Vera plant looms twice my size. The highlight of the island is undoubtedly the highest point of the island – Mount Solaro. With a height of 589 meters above sea level, you’re afforded the best possible views of the island and its pristine sea. A chairlift will get you to the top in less than fifteen minutes, although a walking path is available if you want to work off some of that ice cream. From the peak, you’re elevated enough to see the Gulf of Naples and the smaller island town of Anacapri. It’s hard to believe that from this dizzying height you can still make out the sea floor through the clear water. Fishing boats look like miniature children’s toys and the island’s limestone cliffs look short enough to climb in one stride. In the distance, the Blue Grotto is visible. Free standing boulders dot the sea and form a cave. The reflection of the sunlight creates waters of indescribable blues. Boat rides into the cave are available, although bathing in the Blue Grotto is not permitted. Lido De Jesolo Many travelers abhor the thought of staying at a resort, but once I’ve fully explored a country and have taken in all the history, culture and sightseeing that one can handle, I truly enjoy seeing the country from a relaxed point of view. Lido de Jesolo is a wonderful place to soak up the sun and the sea, and is also a great base from which to day trip. Not much more than a collection of hotels on an average beach, the Lido’s attraction lies in its atmosphere. Both Italians and foreigners come here to play, and the resort never sleeps. You can get ice cream here well after midnight - try the Straciatelli – vanilla ice cream with dark chocolate bits. You can shop in cheap tourist stores, or expensive high street stores. You can eat a five course meal in a fancy restaurant or grab a bite from one of the many vendors lining the streets. When you’ve had enough of relaxing, two of Italy’s most famous cities are within day trip range – Venice and Verona. Venice deserves more than just one day, there is truly no more unique city in the world. A gondola ride, while expensive, is absolutely necessary if you want to get a feel for the city of canals. There is no other way to see some parts of the city. Standing in St. Mark’s Piazza, amidst other tourists and its huge population of pigeons, gives you one of the best views in the entire country. St. Mark’s Basilica, a Byzantine religious masterpiece from the 11th century, takes center stage with its rounded arches and domes. Verona has a slightly more relaxed atmosphere, plenty of history and enough ice cream to satisfy all of its hot tourists. The Opera Stadium, slightly reminiscent of the Colosseum in Rome, still hosts open-air concerts. This Roman amphitheatre dates from the first century AD. Verona is well known for the origin of a certain famous play – Romeo and Juliet. The two families upon which the tragedy was based resided in Verona centuries ago. Everyone flocks to the building that sits where Romeo’s family once lived – now the site of a rather modern looking tall brick building. More interesting is Juliet’s house. The entrance way boasts a stone wall covered in lover’s graffiti. It’s considered more a piece of art than a sign of disrespect. Inside the courtyard of the small house stands a bronze statue of Juliet. Her right breast is brighter than the left; it is considered good luck to rub her right breast and millions of tourists’ hands have worn it away. Best of all is the stone balcony that protrudes from the second floor. It’s easy to picture Juliet standing there in wait for her Romeo. The following is a list of articles that Dawnelle has written for the magazine:
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