| Supper, that
night and several other nights, was gathered from the small deli across
the street which always had chicken and wonderful peaches. Pizza
from a nearby stall was another possibility.
The next morning
we caught a cab to the National Museum. In dimly lit exhibits we
learned that wheat has been sown and viticulture practiced for 9000 years.
We spent most of our time in the "Gold" room mesmerized by cases
of delicate jewelry dating from 2,600 BC. More recent relics of history
were bullet holes in the museum's exterior. This reminder of the
'92 civil war resulted in the replacement of the president, Gamsakhurdia,
by the former communist official Shevardnadze.
That afternoon
another cab whisked us up to the commanding perch of the Sheraton Hotel
where we had hoped to find a tourist agency. We did manage to find
a brochure but no agency in the vast atrium lobby, empty except for two
corpulent men in black firmly planted in oversized leather chairs.
Descending several flights of steps back down to the main road we found
a grizzled but kindly looking gentleman in a battered white Lada who called
to us with his entire arsenal of English, "taxi?" With the
help of a calculator and our newly acquired brochure we agreed on $15 for
the city tour.
The tour
included churches, of course, as Georgia was the second country to accept
Christianity as a state religion. But we also visited a mosque
and a synagogue as well as a sulfurous underground bath complex.
The most interesting relic (replica) we saw was in the Sioni Cathedral,
the seat of the Catholicos of Georgia. A cross, made of two grapevines
was given to Nino, a Cappadocia slave, by Mary. St. Nino saved the
life of Queen Nana who gratefully converted to Christianity and the drooping
cross became symbolic of Georgia.
Winding up
the left side of the river past merchant villas now used as embassy residences
we arrived at the restored Metekhi church built in 1278 on a site occupied
since the fifth century. The original church was destroyed by the Persians
in 1795. In front of the church the imposing statue of Vakhtang Gorgasali
(446-502) commands a view of the city he founded when, according to one
legend, a stag he wounded became miraculously cured by the warm springs.
The word for warm is tbili hence the name of his new city, "Tbilisi".
After our tour,
Gudja, our guide, came to the hotel with us where the English-speaking
receptionist helped plan our tour for the next day. We would repeat
this performance for the next three days.
We were anxious
to get out of Tbilisi and see the countryside so we choose a trip to the
rock-cut monastery complex of David-Gareja located in a semi-desert just
across the border from the Autonomous Republic of Azerbaijan. We
passed through several small towns and the largely abandoned industrial
complex of Rustavi.
Our road eventually
turned into a narrow dirt trail leading to what was once the center of
religious study as well as the arts of Georgia. Sixth century David
Gareja is a complex of 12 monasteries, carved into and tumbling over the
hillside. We visited only Lavra monastery where an American priest
who had been in residence for two years cautioned us to be careful of snakes.
Taking the snake warning to heart, we skipped the climb behind the monastery,
which would have led to the well-preserved frescos in Udabno monastery.
The next day
we decided to visit Stalin's hometown of Gori where we found a larger than
life statue of Stalin standing proudly in the town square.
After centuries of invasion by Persians, Turks, Khazars and Arabs the Georgian
Monarchy was dissolved in 1911 when Georgia became part of Russia. Georgia
enjoyed a brief independence before the czar was overthrown in 1917.
In 1921 Stalin and Trotsky were instrumental in crushing Georgia and incorporating
it in the USSR. Responsible for the death and deportation of millions,
Stalin is remembered as the most famous or possibly infamous Georgian.
His modest home is preserved under a marble edifice and the stately museum
is filled with memorabilia and many photos.
Beyond Gori
along a bumpy road is the amazing cave city of Uplistsikhe. Carved
from rocks around 1000 BC, it was an important trade center along the Silk
Road by the fourth century BC. Parts of the city are clearly discernable
as an amphitheater, channels for irrigation and secret tunnels. Not
so obvious, but pointed out by a local guide, were the pharmacy, bakery
and remains of a winepress. The Georgian word ghvino may be the origin
of our word for wine.
Next to the
last day, because Gudja had to take his wife to the doctor in the afternoon,
we visited the nearby Cathedral of Sveti-tskhoveli where the history of
Georgia can be traced from the first church in the fourth century through
its destruction by Tamerlane in the fourteenth century to the present building
begun in 1010. Although the church was under renovation, we were able to
peer at frescos through doorways.
Returning to
Tbilisi, Gudja left us at The Bread House. Here, in a former bakery,
we had a wonderful meal of shashlik, eggplant and rice and then caught
a cab to the extensive Vake Park, the site of the Museum of Georgian Folk
Architecture. In a leafy, park-like setting, a lively guide showed
us through several of the 70 houses in typical Georgian style.
The last day
we finally traveled the Georgian Military Highway, one of the lures that
had brought us to Georgia. The road began as a track used by invaders since
the first century. Later, as a part of the Silk Road, it was an important
link between Europe and Asia before becoming the main link with Russia.
Following the Aragvi River as it cut deep chasms through 5000 m peaks we
entered the ancient land of Colchis where, according to Greek mythology,
Jason and his 50 Argonauts rowed up the Black Sea to slay the dragon and
capture the golden fleece. However, the road to romance was bumpy
due to the Russian exodus with all their road building and maintenance
equipment in 1992. After a brief stop at the church of Sioni we were
soon passing enormous 12th century stone watchtowers and an occasional
anti aircraft gun emplacement. The scenery was stunning with emerald
gorges backed by snow tipped mountains. At Kazbegi, a village dwarfed
by snowcapped Mt Kazbek we visited the Kazbegi Church then enjoyed a hearty
lamb stew in a small restaurant before bumping back to Tbilisi in time
to catch the eight o'clock train for the overnight trip to Batumi.
The day before
Gudja had bought our train tickets to Batumi near the Turkish border and
we were soon ensconced in our sleeper compartment. Gudja disappeared
for a few minutes and returned with fried chicken and two ice cold Kazbegi
beers. We felt lucky to have found this friendly gentleman with whom
we could only be soul mates. When Carroll gave him a tip and thanked
him as best he could, Gudja kissed his hand.
Our trip had
begun with abduction and had ended with a royal farewell from a courtly
gentleman. Tomorrow we would wake up in Batumi, the semi tropical
Black Sea port marking the end of the Trans-Caucasian railroad. The
Baku oil line that begins in the Autonomous Republic of Azerbaijan also
ends here. But that's another story that you can check out on the
web by entering "Republic of Georgia". ("Republic of" was dropped
in 1995 but this will avoid all those US entries.) You'll also learn
about the new President, Mikhail Saakashvili, who took power in January
2004, in what has been dubbed, "The Rose Revolution."
Georgia
- Planning Your Trip
Visa
We got our
visa in Armenia but the rules have changed. Check the web (Republic of
Georiga+Visa) for the latest information.
Safety
Check the web
(US Consular Information+Republic of Georgia) and of course avoid any troubled
areas such as Abkhazia, Ossetia, etc. Get a driver as you wouldn't
want to drive on the terrible roads. We were stopped once by the police
but our driver was quickly waved on.
Money
The Bank of
Georgia changed traveler's checks into dollars. Kiosk across from
the Adjara changed dollars to lari.
Hotels
The Adjara
(1 Constitution Square - tel:369822)was just OK but was only $45.
The Classic Hotel, a guesthouse in a former home is very nice at around
$60. Full board can be arranged. American Embassy types stay
here. English speaking taxi driver is the son of the owner.
Double check all price quotes for lodging, meals and taxi.
SAK-Tours,
a German-Georgian venture has a small hotel, Kartli (Barnovis 32, with
a leafy beer garden and small spartan rooms for $100. Usual tours + treks
and climbing expeditions.
Sheraton Metechi
Palace Hotel (Telavi 20. Tel:958220) Atrium lobby, glass elevators.
$150.
Marriott Hotel
(13 Rustaveli Ave. Tel: 1 800 228-9290) $155.
Food
We snacked
on chicken and deli items near the hotels after outings. Memorable meals
were at The Breadhouse, the old national bakery complex, that also had
a few dark rooms for rent. Rainer's Café, near and associated
with Sak Tours (also near Classic Hotel)is also good.
Tours
Levon Travel,
Los Angeles, CA(tel: 800 445- 3866) has tours to Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan.
MIR, Seattle,
(800-424-7289) leads a Trans-Caucasus Tour to Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan,
also a tour to Georgia:Treasures of the Trans-Caucasus.
Reading
List
"Lord of the
Panther Skin" by Shota Rustaveli (SUNY Press 1977)
"The Literature
of Georgia" a history by D Rayfield (Clarendon 1994)
For an interesting
take on the history of Georgia Google: Rustaveli+spiritualmission
The following
are other articles that Dorothy has written for the magazine:
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