The flying with Aeromar Líneas Aéreas Dominicanas was easy: mostly daytime turnarounds to JFK in New York and the occasional evening flight to Miami.  Most days we went to “work” at 08:00 and returned by 16:30.  Just in time to enjoy the beautiful sunset and happy hour at the beachfront bar.  On a few of my “days off”, I would while away the day windsurfing, swimming and taking in the sights of Santo Domingo.  At night, the crews would socialize at the beachfront bar or at some of the local establishments.  During these early days, I would kick back with an ice cold “Presidente” making new friends and thinking to myself, “I could get used to this kind of life.” 

Riding The Southern Winds To The End Of The Earth

Shortly after my arrival in the Dominican Republic, I was presented with another opportunity: a request from Air Atlanta to fly out of Buenos Aires.  At first, the request made me just a wee bit apprehensive and a little anxious.  I was beginning to realize this job was taking me farther and farther from home.  And farther and farther outside of my “comfort zone.”  This was something that I had not expected.  I had never really given much thought of traveling to South America, let alone, working from another continent.  Most of my past thoughts on working in another country were daydreams and “flights of fancy.”  After a little bit of thought, I figured: “What the heck!  What do I have to lose?  I’ll give it a few short months and if I like it I will stay.  If not, I will request a basing closer to home.”  Little did I realize at the time, that my apprehension and fears would prove to be unfounded and my venture south into Argentina would change my life in a way I could never have imagined!

Consequently, in May 2003, I checked out of my beachfront accommodation and departed the sun drenched Dominican Republic for Argentina.  After a short hop over to Miami, I boarded an Aerolineas Argentinas flight bound for Buenos Aires.  My first taste of Argentina was a surprise considering what I had been used to in North America.  I was traveling in my uniform and the Commander of the flight, quite unexpectedly, greeted me personally and offered me a seat in First Class.  This was a small and unexpected pleasure and one of many instances of the good will and gracious nature of the Argentine people that I would experience over the coming year. 

As the flight lifted off, I began to relax and gradually fell into a fitful sleep dreaming of the days to come.  After eight hours, the A340 arrived to a gray autumn dawn in Buenos Aires.  I thanked the Captain for the flight and headed out to the front of the terminal to meet my party. 

My first morning in Buenos Aires was an eye opening experience, but one that I got used to very quickly.  Ragnar, the Icelandic Station Manager had been awaiting my arrival and he ushered me to an awaiting taxi warning me that the taxi ride would be hair raising.  I was a little sleepy as it was still early in the morning and I was more interested in the yellow and black Renault and Peugeot taxis awaiting their fares.  The taxis all seem to be in varying states of disrepair, held together by pieces of string, duct tape or anything that was available.  As our taxi accelerated away from the airport at breakneck speed, all I could think of was “… what the hell have I got myself into.”  The 30 minute drive into downtown Buenos Aires can best be described as driving in a Formula 1 race.  The drivers all seemed to be well trained in the fine art of lane changing without signaling, their fingers flicking the high beams like a machine gun, theoretically alerting unwary motorists and unsuspecting pedestrians to the proximity of the speeding projectile.  “Reckless fools, I mean, eh, the taxi” I thought.  Despite the early hour, by the time I reached the hotel and surgically removed my hand from the “dear jesus” handle, I was wide awake. And so it was through this twist of fate, I joined a ragtag group of expatriate pilots and flight attendants in Buenos Aires.  Over the next few days, I met my colleagues and I found them to come from an unlikely mixture of nationalities: Canada, America, Iceland, Oz, Belgium, Holland, Austria and Argentina. 

Buenos Aires or BA, as it is known amongst my peers, is the main base of operations for Southern Winds.  International flights depart from Ezeiza Aeropuerto Internacional, west of the city; whereas, the domestic flights depart from downtown Jorge Newberry.  The Southern Winds head office is situated 800 km to the west in a city I would come to know very fondly – Córdoba.  At present, Southern Winds fly to Madrid and Miami (though this flight is on hold for the moment).  Southern Winds flights departing BA for Madrid navigate over 10,000 km of jungle and open ocean before reaching their destination.  In the heydays of aviation, a company by the name of British South American Airways operated a passenger and cargo service that originated in Southampton, England and terminated in Santiago, Chile.  BSAA operated a weekly flight and made stops in places as exotic as Faro, the Cape Verde Islands, Dakar, Natal, Rio de Janeiro, Montevideo, Buenos Aires, Córdoba and finally Santiago.  In those days, the flights would take up to one week to complete the route, before returning home.  Looking back, this era is steeped in history and was fraught with hazards that are not existent to this day.  Today, using modern B767-300s, Southern Winds completes the Buenos Aires to Madrid flight in about 12 hours and the return in about 13 ½ hours. 

On my first flight from Buenos Aires, I was tasked to fly with a new First Officer (co-pilot to the rest of you laymen).  It was a routine flight from Buenos Aires to Miami, about nine hours flying time.  Even though I had never flown the route before, I was looking forward to meeting my crew and operating the flight.  Flying is almost always something new and something challenging.  It is never the same.  Even after 22 years, I still get a thrill when I strap myself into the pilot seat and listen to the engine’s spool up, singing their starting song.  When the cabin has been secured and we are all ready, we line up on the runway and I push forward the thrust levers.  My senses come alive as the heavily laden aircraft begins to accelerate.  It is an indescribable feeling as slowly but surely I rotate the nose skyward and the aircraft lifts off. 

I can still remember that first May flight to Miami.  We had settled back into our normal routine and gradually, as the flight progressed northwards, we passed over the peaks of the Andes and the dark expanse of the Amazon Jungle.  I can recall looking out at the night sky and thinking how much more vivid the stars seemed at this altitude.  You almost felt like you were floating in a void.  For the first time, I gazed at the Southern Cross.  You could not help but think how we are all so small and insignificant.  For me, right there and then, I understood for the first time that fate had brought me to where I am today.  Coming to Argentina was the best decision I had made in my life.  The sacrifices have all been worthwhile.  Actually, it wasn’t really a sacrifice.  I had escaped the excesses of North America, even just for a short time, and now I was living my dreams.  Even a few of my close expatriate friends understand my thinking.  They know exactly what I mean. 

Over the coming months, I took advantage of every possibility to experience this beautiful land called Argentina.  To say I was to become captivated by the people and the country would be a gross understatement.  I fell in love with Argentina.

Land Of Fire And Ice – Tierra del Fuego

So here I am in Argentina, literally at the “Ends of the Earth.”  The country is located in the Southern Hemisphere oriented in a north-south direction at the foot of the South American continent.  When I arrived in May, the country was in late autumn and heading into winter.  In comparison to the Northern Hemisphere, the seasons are reversed.  Nonetheless, Argentina experiences a variation in climates varying from tropical rain forests in the north to sub-arctic in the south.  In the central and eastern regions, the country has rich agricultural regions known as the Pampas and in the west you have the stunning mountainous lake regions.  In addition, the wine growing regions along the foothills of the Andes have been known to produce the finest wines in the world.  At times over the last year, I couldn’t believe I was in South America.  What I didn’t realize before I came down to this part of the world is that Argentina is one of the most beautiful countries on this fragile planet.  Case in point: the south-western town of Bariloche is known as “Little Switzerland” renowned for its stunning lakes and mountain scenery.  Furthermore, Buenos Aires has been referred to as the “Paris of South America” for its grandiose architecture, fine restaurants and magnificent barrios (neighborhoods).  And who can forget the beef: the best in the world – no words can describe the taste – exquisite would be an understatement.  Just thinking about it right now, makes my mouth water. 

For me, living in Argentina has been a time of discovery and reflection.  My down time has allowed me the opportunity to travel throughout the country, courtesy of a tacit jump seat agreement – a sort of gentleman’s agreement.  This tacit contract allows a Captain to invite another pilot onto his flight, free of the encumbrances of ticketing and check-in.  Of course, a specific protocol must be followed.  From my experience, it was plain to see respect for the pilot profession in Argentina is very much alive and well.  A Captain is still addressed as “Captain.” 

Last July, courtesy of a generous Aerolineas Captain, I traveled 3,080 km from BA to the southernmost inhabited city on the planet, Ushuaia.  Tierra del Fuego is not what I had expected.  I had expected a cold barren landscape.  Instead, I found Ushuaia, a town of 40,000 inhabitants, nestled in a small bay surrounded by snow capped peaks.  To say this region is beautiful is not doing it justice.  You have to see it to believe it.  While I was there, I was treated to sunny weather and a temperature hovering around 5-8ºc during the day.  Although, the region receives its share of bad weather, the temperature rarely drops below -10ºc during the winter months.  The temperature is moderated by the proximity to the South Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. 

Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego has much to offer for the adventurous and for the historian.  During my excursion to Ushuaia, I had been particularly interested in finding out more about the local aviation history.  As it turns out, the region has a fascinating aviation history.  I discovered the local flying club in the midst of a meticulous restoration of a derelict DC3.  The DC3 Dakota or Dak as we call it in aviation lingo spent some of its early years in Canada with several different airlines.  Ultimately, the old Dak somehow found its way to Argentina.  The Dak spent its final years flying coastal patrols with the Argentine Navy, before being retired to the Aero Club Ushuaia.  I found out that, in due course, the old workhorse will be placed on static display at the Ushuaia Airport, a reminder of a bygone era.  Coincidentally, a few weeks later, I discovered that one of our Argentine pilots, Carlos Albarracin, used to pilot the old Dak while serving in the Argentine Navy.  He had many fond memories of his days at the controls of the Dak, quite a contrast to his present day position flying the wide body 767-300.  In addition, I discovered that Ushuaia has played host to the supersonic Concorde on two separate occasions.  As well, a Tower Air 747 was the first jumbo jet to visit this remote outpost.   Several years ago, the government had the foresight to construct a 2800 m runway 07-25 capable of handling the big jets, and as a means to promote tourism to Tierra del Fuego and to the Antarctic Continent.  As a result, cruise ships now call in regularly to Ushuaia.  During the austral summer, the cruise ships navigate high paying tourists on eco-tours to Antarctica. 

Expats And Friends

One of the most enjoyable parts of my journey has been developing a new circle of friends in Argentina and within Air Atlanta.  At last count, there were 34 different nationalities working for this company.  Behind the different faces and histories, it’s amazing how much we share in common.  In general, no matter where you go, you are respected and people bend over backwards to welcome you with open arms.  They are even quite happy to try out their English on you.  At first it is difficult for a westerner to leap the language and culture barrier and initially, you remain more detached.  It is not that an iron wall separates us. There is in fact a good deal of friendliness and pleasure in making new acquaintances.  Eventually, after a short period of time, and a little effort, those barriers are overcome.  Friendships blossom and you become part of this new world and new life. 

When I first arrived, I couldn’t help being drawn in by this wonderful country.  The people have made my experience in Argentina something I will never forget.  In my opinion, the Argentines are the most gracious, affectionate people I have met in my entire life.  They could teach the so-called western world a thing or two about living.  Friendship and respect are two words that come to mind when I think of my Argentine friends and colleagues.  It would be difficult not to fall in love with Argentina.  Places such as Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, Córdoba, Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, Carlos Páz, Iguazú, San Luis and Mendoza will remain with me for a long time and some of my new friends will be a part of my life for a long time to come.  Certainly forever. 

Flying in Argentina has been one of the most gratifying personal experiences of my life.  The experience has allowed me to rethink my future goals and it has provided me with memories of friendships that will last a lifetime.  And so it is.  For the foreseeable future, I will continue my journey with Air Atlanta and perhaps, just perhaps, one day I will find my place in the world.  When I decide, Argentina will certainly be number one on my list. 

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