Scotland - Castles, Monsters And Fairy Whispers ~ by Dawnelle Salant
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Scotland
Castles, Monsters and Fairy Whispers ~ by Dawnelle Salant
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I’m ashamed to say that before I visited Scotland, it wasn’t high on my list of countries to tour.  I’m not sure why, but I think it had something to do with what another traveler said to me. “You’re from Canada? Go to Scotland. It’s just like Canada, you’ll love it.” I travel to see places that are different from what I am used to, so I mentally crossed Scotland off my list. When I finally found myself wandering around Britain’s northernmost country, I was pleased to discover that Scotland has more to offer than I expected. And honestly? It’s really not very much like Canada at all.

STIRLING

My first stop after crossing the border between England and Scotland was Stirling. The city’s main attraction lies two miles north of the city - the 220 foot William Wallace Monument. It was from this elevated hilltop that Scotland’s national hero, William Wallace, witnessed the English army approach and cross Stirling Bridge. What followed was the famous battle.

The Monument sits at the top of Abbey Craig, and it’s a bit of a walk up to the tower. On the way you’ll pass a statue of William Wallace, which sits outside the Visitor’s Center. It’s hard not to notice the statue’s resemblance to Mel Gibson, who portrayed William Wallace in Braveheart. Many don’t appreciate the molding of this character to match an Australian actor, and the statue must be caged up at night to prevent any defacing. Mel, I mean Wallace, stands atop a block bearing the word FREEDOM. But the monument is the major attraction.

 220 foot William Wallace Monument
 
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The block-like spire topped tower serves as a fitting memorial to such an important man. You can climb to the top of the tall tower, and the ascent doubles as a history lesson.  The first level of the tower, 71 stairs up, contains a display which tells the story of Wallace’s life and the Battle of Stirling Bridge. A highlight of the display is the Wallace sword. At over five feet long, it’s incredible to think that anyone could ever wield the huge, heavy piece of metal as a weapon.

Two more levels include information about other notable Scotsmen and Stirling’s geographical layout. The top level of the tower provides spectacular views of the highlands’ breathtaking mountains. It’s definitely worth each of the 246 steps. 

LOCH NESS

Much of Scotland’s charm lies simply within its people and its countryside. Scottish people seem to exude a sort of friendly cheerfulness and the views I had just driving around the small, chilly country were enough to use up several rolls of film. On the way to Loch Ness, we passed Craigievar Castle; a tall, pink square building. Set in the vast woodlands, the castle was closed to the public, but its green grounds were open for exploring.
 Not too far from the castle, on the way to Loch Ness, we took a slight detour from the main road with the sole intention of getting Lost. The tiny hamlet of Lost, Scotland has a population of around two dozen and lies 40 miles west of Aberdeen. It consists of not much more than several houses, a war memorial and one farm. Its amusing name comes from a Celtic word meaning inn. 

Unfortunately, the day we drove by, Lost also appeared to be closed to the public. The road was blocked, and a box in front of the barrier allowed people to leave mail and milk for the Lost people. I wasn’t too disappointed; I was still able to get the compulsory picture of me under the Lost sign, looking slightly confused and worried.
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Urquhart Castle
One of my favorite Scottish sights are the Hairy Coos. Looking somewhat like a cross between a buffalo and a mammoth, the shaggy-haired cows were unlike any farm animal I had seen before.  The Highland cattle graze on grass all over the country.

When we arrived at Loch Ness, I was surprised to discover what a huge area the water covers. The Loch is 23 miles long and 1 mile wide, with an average depth of 600 feet. We headed straight to Urquhart Castle, the most popular spot on the Loch for sightings of its infamous monster. A series of rock pathways connect the crumbling ruins of a once splendid castle. Sitting high on a hill overlooking the calm waters of the Loch, Urquhart Castle’s eroded walls and lookout points radiate mystery.

Driving around the massive body of water, we stopped several times to explore the coast of the famous Loch. Swans floated near one section of the shoreline, trees crowded another and a dock holding several boats comprised a busier section of the lake. At one spot, I tiptoed into the freezing water and stood on the smooth pebbles until my toes turned to icicles. 

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A trip to the Loch Ness Visitor Center proved it to be much more than a typical tourist trap. Besides all the usual t-shirts, magnets and stuffed toys for sale, the Center also includes a history of the Loch, and its monster. Photos and video document the story of the Loch Ness Monster, and I must say that I found the evidence to be interesting, shocking and rather convincing.  Let’s just say that if I were to take a proper swim in the Loch, I wouldn’t be letting my legs dangle down too far…….

CARBISDALE CASTLE

Scotland is famous for its castles. Carbisdale Castle isn’t the oldest, the most famous, or even the most spectacular, but it should be one that you make a point of visiting. For this is no ordinary castle; it lets you inside like no other castle can. Carbisdale Castle is now a hostel, and for a night or two, you can live like a prince or princess.

Half a mile from the village of Culrain on the south bank of the Kyle of Sutherland, Carbisdale Castle is a fairly modern building by castle standards. It was built between 1906 and 1917 for the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland, a lady with a rather scandalous past. Her second marriage, to George Granville William Sutherland Levenson-Gower, was what gave her the title of Duchess. The Sutherland family wasn’t exactly accepting of the marriage, and when the Duke died in 1892 leaving almost everything to his unpopular wife, his son and heir contested the will.

Duchess Blair, as she was known, destroyed vital documents and spent six weeks in Holloway Prison, London. Eventually, the Sutherland family agreed to a generous financial settlement, which included the building of a residence befitting a Duchess. Carbisdale Castle was built to the Duchess’s specifications, at the expense of the Sutherlands. The only catch was that it had to be outside of the Sutherland property.

I was so excited about sleeping in a bona fide castle, I hardly cared that it was too dark to see the outside when we drove through the stone gates. The reception area was fairly nondescript, but as we walked to our room, I was overcome by magic. A huge hallway with a wooden floor was my first glimpse of the castle’s interior. A white marble fireplace is surrounded by historical paintings on one of the dark maroon walls, and Italian statues lined the middle of the walkway. The white ceiling supports several hanging chandeliers.

We climbed a huge wooden staircase to our room, which had once served as the nursery, and a sign on the wall gave me my first shiver. I hadn’t known, but apparently Carbisdale Castle is haunted, and each room has a terrifying tale to go with it. Crying babies have been heard in the former nursery, and although I didn’t hear anything unusual during my sleepless night, I was definitely spooked. 

In the morning we had breakfast in a fairly modern kitchen and set off to explore the rest of the castle. The majority of the rooms have been converted into dormitories and each contains several bunk beds. The common room has busy navy and white wallpaper and a light blue and white pendant ceiling. A bay window encased with rich wood lets the light in.

The exterior of the castle in the gray Scottish morning was more impressive than I thought. No more than three stories high at its tallest point, the gray stone is punctuated by more windows than I had ever seen on a castle. One main turret sits at the center of the building, and two wings branch out from its sides. 
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ACHMELVICH

One of my favorite places in Scotland turned out to be one I had never heard of. Achmelvich lies about three miles northwest of Lochinver, but be warned – it’s a rather long three miles. One of Scotland’s single track roads leads to this enticing beach at Achmelvich Bay. Extremely narrow and just as windy, maneuvering the single track road proved to be both exciting and frightening. Admittedly, we met very few vehicles, but the possibility of encountering one while rounding a sharp corner set my heart thumping.

Places to pull over and let other cars pass do exist, but whenever we did meet another car, it was nowhere near one of these wider parts of the road. We often found ourselves reversing to a passing area and then resuming our journey. 

Beach at Achmelvich
 
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The scenery itself was dead – lifeless black heather covered most of the ground and bleak mountains filled the distance. But it was beautiful nonetheless. And every second of the journey was worth it when we arrived at our destination.

I stepped out into the cold air and immediately my senses were befuddled. While I was shivering in the bitter wind, I was also standing on a powdery, white sand beach that was met by blue water worthy of the Caribbean. It was astonishing. I wanted to dive in with my snorkeling gear, but my goosebumps reminded me that I was in Scotland.

Several smaller beaches spatter Achmelvich Bay, and we wandered along grassy fields and craggy rocks to explore them. Sheer slate rock stopped the crashing white waves at one point, and calm water met more white sand at another. Sheep roam free and munch contentedly on the green grass. A few noticed us and Baa’ed their welcome, but the majority didn’t pay us any attention.

And what would a day in Scotland be without seeing a castle? Achmelvich Bay is home to a unique castle, nicknamed the smallest castle in Scotland. Built of concrete and sitting on a rocky hill overlooking the water, Hermit’s Castle is not big enough to let more than two people inside its cramped interior at once. A rock “bed” barely long enough to lie down on is the only real furniture. Legend has it that a hippie built this castle in the early 1950’s with the intention of making it his home, but he only lived there for a week. It’s now abandoned.

When we’d had our fill of the castle and the mesmerizing water, we turned around to head back to the car. The view that greeted us was unlike anything I had seen before and likely will see nowhere else on earth. What met my eyes was the turquoise water lapping at the soft sand of the first paradise like beach. Behind it was a tall, dark mountain, its summit capped with clean white snow.

ISLE OF SKYE

The northwestern coast of Scotland is a nature lover’s paradise. The Isle of Skye has some of the most breathtaking views in all of the country. The only obstacle to this island of beauty is a tremendously expensive toll bridge. The lengthy white arc has been a source of anger and debate since its opening in 1995, as the toll bridge’s prices range from £5.70 for a car, to £41.20 for a bus carrying 22 or more passengers – one way!
Once you have emptied out your pocket and crossed the bridge, head for the village of Kyleakin. This area was first settled by the Celts in the first millennium BC and remnants of their culture still exist. Ruins of a tiny castle dating back to the 10th century, Dun Acaiin, overlook the Kyle. Once a base for the Clan Mackinnon, the castle was abandoned in the early 17th century. 
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Kilt Cliffs
In Scots Gaelic the island is called “Eilean A Cheo” which means Misty Isle. Early on the first morning, it was evident why; a fine mist surrounded the village, shrouding the castle in romance and mystery. Pristine white houses dot the low hills, and boats fill the water. The village has the welcoming, homey feel that you can only find in smaller settlements.

Past Kyleakin sits the River Sligachan. Tradition has it that newcomers to the island must dip their faces into the icy water. This stems from the legend of a princess whose eyes were ripped out; when she dipped her face into the water, she was cured.

Another highlight of the Isle of Skye is the Kilt Cliffs. Walls of sheer rock drop hundreds of feet down to meet the water where it turns from deep blue into a frothing white as it smashes upon the shore. The dark rocks crease into one another like the folds of an authentic Scottish Kilt.
A few waterfalls add their own spray to the crashing water. Thick pipes channel water up and down the cliffs and the sound of the water cascading through them has been likened to the whispers of fairies.

We drove next to hike what was described to me as a “wee hill.” The actually not so wee hill, Quiraing, just happens to be one of the most naturally beautiful places in the world. The hike to the 950 foot peak took about 45 minutes of steady exertion – but the body heat this generated was welcomed in the harsh wind. Although the sun shone brightly, the north Scottish air erased its warmth. The paths are narrow and rocky, so good walking shoes are essential. 

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Quiraing is a geological fault which was caused by landslipping. The result is a succession of strange pinnacles and unique rock formations. Scrambling over and around them brings you closer to the The Table, a flat summit. The scenery alternates between dark rock and green grass covering rolling hills. Quiraing is more of a collection of hills, with uneven paths leading in between them.

The dramatic scenery from the top of the hill is enough to encourage some to break out into song – The Hills are Alive With the Sound Of Music perhaps…….Rolling hills and steep cliffs seem to stretch on forever. Even farther in the distance lies the deep blue water of the sea.

One green hill ends rather abruptly, creating a valley between itself and a much taller cliff. A thin promontory extends out from another hill and walking along it is about as close to walking on thin air as you can get. 
Quiraing could be the very heart of Mother Nature herself.

The following is a list of articles that Dawnelle has written for the magazine:

Istanbul - History Comes to Life
Teaching English In Turkey - Falling In Love With Turkey
Charmed, I’m Sure! ~ In Morocco 
The Country Of Eternal Spring - Guatemala
Pure Life - Traveling Through Costa Rica
I Dream Of The Sea ~ Diving In Roatan
Britain - Beyond London

To contact Dawnelle Click Here
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