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In The Hills Above Panama City
Cerro Azul
by Zvia Leibler-Danon
Whether you are living in Panama or are just in the city for a business trip – you may feel the need for relief from the hot muggy weather in your free time.  If so, then do what the natives do – head for the hills.  To ensure that the break you take offers a unique and relaxing experience, as well as cooler weather, head for Cerro Azul.

As you pull off the “Corredor Sur”- the new highway leading to the airport, and navigate your way by innumerable buses, trucks and cars of every type, keep calm. The good part is about to begin.

At the Super Extra (supermarket) shopping center you turn off the highway and begin climbing, up, up, up to Cerro Azul. 

No matter how bright and hot the day is in the city or by the ocean, you are bound to get cooler – and most likely a bit wet – as you drive up the mountain into one of its perpetual cloud banks. The road is well paved for 3/4's of the way, and a bit choppy on the last stretch. You pass a mysterious Chinese gate (wondering why it's there, how old is it and who had lived there), dairy farms and churches, horse ranches and tiny towns, rolling green meadows and lush vegetation. You will think you have entered another country!

When you are practically at the top you'll come to an area of beautiful large houses, surrounded by acres of land. The house you want is called Hostal Casa de Campo Country Inn & Spa, owned and run by the Sanchiz sister and brother team: Ana Maria and Jorge Sanchiz Moreno.

While Ana Maria is a native of Panama, her English is perfect – so are her massages and facials!  Ana Maria studied in the US for many years, received her BA in  Communication Studies from University of Windsor, Canada, and MA in Communication Arts from Loyola   Marymount University, Los Angeles before returning back home.

When I asked Ana Maria about herself she said “ I consider myself a jack of all trades and master of none, as I have had to put into practice many of my hobbies of years past:  painting, decoration, cooking, and went on to become certified as a Cosmetologist and Esthetician.

Jorge is a naval engineer and is now involved in the creation of several solid waste disposal plants in the country. 

I must tell you the truth: I have had many massages and facials throughout the years but being treated in Casa de Campo was an unforgettable and enjoyable experience. 

The state of mind, the sound of the rain drops and the tranquility that surrounds the place helps to get into the right mood for relaxation. Moreover, the treatment itself is so special.

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Ana Maria uses various aromatherapy oils for massages and special facial masks of avocado, papaya and many more fruity and vegetable masks which brighten and lighten up your whole face and body— and she also renews every point of energy by placing cold energetic stones on your face and body. In close contact with nature, you can relax, enjoy yourself and soothe your aching bones and muscles.

When you get there you may find a group of women engaged in a yoga retreat. Or you may find you have the place to yourself. Or something  in between.

The house is large and sprawling, and has been in her family for generations, first as  a summer home and then  a retirement place for her parents and now a bed and breakfast place for lovers, honeymooners, housewives, top executives, and many people from the show business world. As Ana Maria says, “The house was left abandoned for over 3 years, until we decided that we had to do something with it...and after discarding the idea of renting or selling it, we decided to make it into a Bed and Breakfast”. The house was originally going to be a small 2 bedroom weekend home...but since her father was a builder, he just added on as Ana Maria suggested things.

There is a large living room, several guest rooms, a huge kitchen and dining room, treatment rooms for an array of massages, facials, anti-stress and anti-age treatments, mud baths and much more. You can come for the day, have one or two treatments of your choice, eat a decent lunch, dip in the small pool or in the Jacuzzi in the garden – if it's not raining - stroll through the grounds dotted with benches, walking bridges and intimate corners.

There are several package deals to choose from and the cost depends on the number and kinds of treatments. You might elect to sleep over in one of the large guestrooms or in back of the house in the annex.  The way the house is decorated will make you feel as though you have gone back a century in time - even the staff goes way back - Toribio has been working in the family house for about 29 years, Fidencio has been a handy man for over

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15 years, and Marta, the cook came to the door 8 years ago asking for a job the day before they opened to the public as Hostal Casa de Campo Country Inn & Spa on January 13, 1996.

It makes you feel special to still find a small and significant place such as Casa de Campo in the midst of the cloudy rain forest of Cerro Azul. That is where my yoga teacher, Marcela Garber, decided to take her group on a simple yoga retreat-a remote place but not too remote from the city, a place where a bunch of people can get together and talk about their inner feelings. This weekend retreat was called “How do we deal with our fears,” and included theory and practice sessions.

Cerro Azul was just the place for such a retreat—the cool breezy air helped us get in the mood for the 7 o’clock meditation sessions on Casa de Campo’s porch. For our theory sessions we sat on the balcony of our spacious rooms viewing the amazing vegetation and talking about the different fears we deal with or just live with for years on end, and learning about the  various tools we can use to relieve these conscious and subconscious fears. I don’t think it would be that effective if we were all sweating on some porch in muggy Panama City. It just wouldn’t be the same, I guess. Talking about our intimate feelings is never easy, even more so with strangers, thus, the key to success is where you do it and how you organize such a retreat. 

Casa de Campo was a good pick, since it is not far from the City, has 8 comfortable rooms with private bathrooms with hot water, and 3 rustic cabins with private Jacuzzis. Our group shared rooms, and had a prepared agenda of what we would cover each day - from the 7 o’clock meditations on an empty stomach(!!!) until  our evening ginger tea. In between we had yoga classes with several specific exercises  designed to relieve our fears (which we were suppose to continue doing for a period of 40 days), conversations about unrealistic and realistic fears and how to deal with them, discussions on how unrealistic fears and stress impact our lives and impede us from living the way we want to, and much more. All our meals were served in the dining room - a fixed menu of basic and tasty food. The dining room is itself very special, with heavily carved doors over a century old; Chinese dolls line the shelves. You will be served lovely herbal tea to sip near the small pool, on the terrace or inside, depending on the weather.

I asked Ana Maria to tell me an interesting story about Cerro Azul: “Cerro Azul is a center of energy...in certain areas the compass goes crazy and you can’t tell North from South or East from West. I have had visits from people who say that this is what makes it interesting for many mystic and energetic retreats and also for the probability of being visited by aliens”.

Ana Maria also mentions that self help programs and professional enrichment programs by companies arrange motivational retreats for their workers or clients from time to time in Casa de Campo; private companies sometimes hold meeting there; and  massage techniques are taught there by international professors such as Josep Viñals from Spain in Geopuncture and Chromotherapy and such massage techniques as Lymphatic Drainage, Californian Aromatherapy by Jose Miguel Riviere from Colombia.
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I guess it’s not only a spot for yogis but an inspiration spot for both health and ecological tourists/visitors.

Further up, in Altos de Cerro Azul, is a popular and newer housing area with a recreation area. Here also you will find Cerro Jefe Forest Reserve and the Chagres National Park, all important for Panama's ecology as well as for guaranteeing the water supply for the Panama Canal.

I asked Ana Maria why  the place is called Cerro Azul - Blue Hill... “basically because on hazy days the hills look bluish green, as they are covered by the clouds.  We are located in Las Nubes, which means The Clouds, due to the fact that we are in a small valley, where clouds get caught in the rainy season, when they hang low in the afternoons.  In the rainy months from April to November, after 3 p.m., the clouds actually invade the homes, filling them with moisture.”

To see more about the Casa de Campo Click Here

The following is a list of articles written by Zvia for the magazine:

A Paradise On Water ~ Talking With Expats In Bocas Del Toro
El Valle ~ A Cool Weekend Escape
Amazing Short Hops From Panama City ~ Rest And Relax Near The City
Re-Entering Panama ~ Returning From A Busy Country
Coffee, Flowers, Nature and More ~ In The Mountains Of Chiriqui, Panama
Water: A Resource For Life - The International Water Festival In Panama

To contact Zvia Click Here

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