< Disclaimer> < Return To Issue Article Index >

Nosy Be, is situated in the North of Madagascar, in the Mozambique Canal Waters(Click Here to see map of Nosy Be). This great island has been granted several nicknames in the course of centuries. The most relevant of those nicknames seems to be “Nosy Manitra” (the scented island in Malagasy). Getting down from the plane in Fascene airport, you can feel the ylang ylang, frangipani tree, coffee, cocoa, vanilla, cinnamon, sugar cane balmy fragrances wash over your sense of smell. As a matter of fact, those plants are intensively cultivated all over the island. The first inhabitants of Nosy Be, in addition to the Sakalava that represent the most numerous ethnic group, belonged to small bands of Antankarana and Zafinofotsy, joined afterwards by some Comorians , Indians or Antandroy. Nosy Be Island started finding its place in Malagasy history when King Radama the First made it clear that he intended to conquer the whole West of the red Island up to the sea. That plan was eventually achieved when the Sakalava Boeni Kingdom came into his possession. Towards 1837, Queen Tsiomeko’s army was defeated. She and many of her subjects took refuge on the islands of Nosy Komba and Nosy Tanikely. The Merina were unable to pursue them onto these islands and eventually settled on the neighbouring coast, keeping the Sakalava under threat on the islands beyond. Nosy Be’s notables tried to call to Zanzibar’s Sultan for help in order to free themselves from those fearsome neighbours. The latter sent a ship, but the Sultan's ship turned back almost as soon as it arrived. In 1840, the first French ship, the Colibri, entered Nosy Be’s Bay.  The Sakalava sent emissaries to this ship’s captain to call to France for help and protection. On July 14th, 1841, Queen Tsiomeko and Captain Passot (the latter had in the meantime acquired a French government agreement of peace) signed a treaty that established French authority over the islands of Nosy Be and Nosy Komba. This began a  period of French protectorate over the islands though the Merina raided the French controlled areas up until 1870; this period of conflict lasted for a short period and was followed by a period of great peace

Iranja island, among the most physically beautiful islands in the Indian Ocean, is composed of two islands connected by a sand dune which is flooded during high tide.

Tanikely island is the preferred destination of tourists who enjoy exploring the beauty and the wealth of life in the surrounding coral reef.

Nosy Be’s landscape is varied and it is characterized by a great many hills that are overlooked by Mount Lokone (450m) and Mount Passot (350). From these high vantage points, you have an exceptional view onto Nosy Be Bay, but also on the Radama Islands (south) and Mitsio Islands (north). The coast is very jagged and puctuated by a  great many bays and gorgeous coves and also deserted beaches lined by palm trees. There are also many small islands and rocks that may constitute perfect refuges for tourists wanting to isolate themselves in total privacy. Temperatures are rather pleasant, except in summer (December, January, February). During that period, night rainfalls combine with the day’s heat and result in a tiresome humidity. During the same period, some places (generally along the east coast) can be stricken by cyclones. For the most part Nosy Be is not directly affected by bad weather, however, if other other parts of Madagascar have bad weather then you will find very strong winds and daily rainfalls on Nosy Be. Tourist infrastructures remain insufficient and inadequate even though many tourists, seeking a different holidays, start visiting Madagascar and Nosy Be. The island cannot therefore accommodate many tourists. On the other hand, this situation constitutes an asset if one takes into consideration the fact that there is no massive flow of in coming tourists. The tarred road that leads you from Fascene Airport to the city and hotels, amidst coffee, ylang ylang, sugar cane and pepper plantations, gives you a general idea of the island’s very rich vegetation. Four kilometres after the airport, there is a junction for Ambatozavavy (7kms after this junction), a small village on the east coast of Nosy Be. That road (in very bad condition) is lined by ylang ylang plantations. Just before the village, you will notice the building of the Swiss Malagasy Foundation;its aim is to  develop agriculture, education and health.

It is very well situated if you want to visit the neighbouring age-old forest. Another place you can try is the Jungle Village. It is very close to the village of Ampasipohy and can only be reached by sea. They have six bungalows built of local wood. They are quite friendly and the place is perfect if you feel like relaxing for a few days amidst Nature. Just before Hell town (Hell Ville), the most important of the county towns in Nosy Be, you will catch sight of a very beautiful view onto the bay but also onto Nosy Tanikely and Nosy Komba islands.
.

The roads will usually allow tourists to go and visit the most important places in the surrounding area. Yet, we do advise you not to venture on hard-packed earth tracks during the rainy season. If you visit Hell ville and its surroundings, you will certainly notice some construction that dates back to the Colonial period:these are mostly old houses surrounded by long terraces. In the upper part of the port, old cannons dating back to the time of the pirates watch over the harbour. If you feel like having an aperitif, a delicious fruit juice or an ice cream, your best bet may be the Oasis, the Nandipo (the local rugby team’s favourite bar) or the Papagajo. The market which is called a Bazaar is a very coloured place, above all in the afternoon. At that time, many farmers come from the Great Land (the continent or Madagascar for the people who live on the island), carrying their load of vegetables. The fishermen also come back to the harbour to sell the fish they caught in the archipelago’s waters . From the top of the hill where the hospital was built, one can have a magnificent view of the day's sunset. The sea gets dotted with white sails when the fishermen’s launches come back to port. If you keep driving, heading to the east, you will cross the village of Ambanoro that was the first foreign settlement in Madagascar. The ancient constructions have been overgrown with the roots of the sacred tree. The tree’s branches cover the buildings and drop down to the ground. As part of the trip to Hell ville, you can see old documents on the traditions, culture, and history of the Sakalava and Antankarana tribes. There are a great many shops along Hell ville’s main avenue.

From the Mont Passot summit, the highest peak on Nosy Be,  you can marvel at a splendid panorama on the lakes and Nosy Be bay.

..
They sell local handicrafts or local gastronomic specialities: dried fish, black, white or green pepper in the bazaar, lemon, mango or tamarind achards. Driving on the road that takes you toward the north of the island, turn right, just before the junction that takes you to the village of Ambatoloaka. When you turn, you will drive on a magnificent lane, shaded by tall “kapok trees”. Then, you will arrive at Ampasindava, a village adorned by a great many bushes of multicoloured bougainvilleas that creep along the filaos’ trunks.

After paying the admission fee, you will walk upon a little path that will take you to a very beautiful waterfall. The stretch of smooth water created by the waterfall is surrounded with big clumps of papyrus. Go back to the main road and take it until you reach the junction that leads to Ambatoloaka. That village is one of the most picturesque villages on the island. Because of its population that is mostly composed of fishermen. Every morning, they bring their launches out and go dragnet fishing. In the evening, they sail back to the beach. Upon their arrival, the whole village gathers around them to buy their multicoloured catches. The village of Dzamandar is the second most important inhabited place in Nosy Be; here you can visit the Sirama sugar refinery which produces 15/2000 tons of sugar a year, but also a very good rum that you can buy provided you have a bottle and a cork with you.. The road, which is lined with sugar cane plantations, continues toward the north after Dzamandar. From May to September, sugar cane is in blossom and the fields will turn to stretches of silvery panaches that will offer you a beautiful view.

In spite of the beauty of its natural sites, the kindness and hospitality of its inhabitants, one must not consider Nosy Be as a mere landing place to spend great holidays on deserted beaches. It can also represent a point of departure toward the surrounding islands: Nosy Komba, Nosy Tanikely, Nosy Sakatia or even more remote islands such as the Mitsio Arcipelago, the Radama Islands or Nosy Iranja. A great many tour operators now organise not only visits to these islands but also bivouacs and cruises. 

The following is a list of articles that Nia has written for the magazine:

A Look At Madagascar ~ The Great Island
In The South Of Madagascar ~ Among The Harsh Beauty Of Isalo
Antananarivo ~ The City Of A Thousand Warriors - Madagascar's Capital
An Island With Sapphire Fever ~ Madagascar's Hidden Wealth
The Tsingy Of Belo Sur Tsiribihina And The Royal Bath ~ In Madagascar

To contact Nia Click Here
.

< Send a Letter to the Editor > < Subscribe> < Submit An Article >< Disclaimer>