Mismaloya-Yelapa, Mexico: Traveling In Mexico ~ by Bill Moake
Home PageHome PageOverseas JobsLiving OverseasCountry ProfilesArticleseBooks For ExpatsOur MagazineOffshore InvestmentsTravelEncryped eMailInternational MarketplaceInternational Real EstateBoats Barges YachtsOverseas RetirementEmbassies
Escape From America Magazine
 < Disclaimer> < Return To Issue Article Index >
 
Send This WebPage To A Friend!
Mismaloya-Yelapa, Mexico
Traveling In Mexico ~ by Bill Moake
...
The first time I saw Mismaloya beach on the Pacific coast of Mexico there was nothing on it except a few palapa (thatched-roof) huts selling cold beer and hot tamales. Now it's is covered with high-rise condos, hotels and fancy restaurants, thanks in part to publicity from films like "Night of the Iguana" and "Predator" which were shot in the area.

Mismaloya is still quite dramatic looking: jungle-clad cliffs rising on two sides of a large bay with a crescent white-sand beach. If you squint to block out the high-rises, you can see why John Huston chose Mismaloya in 1963 as the setting for his film about wanderers in a remote tropical paradise.

From the beach highway a rough road parallels the Mismaloya river upward into the mountains. After passing a row of Mexican shanties, I stopped the rented VW Thing at one point when I noticed wild parakeets perched in trees. Strange how I had never thought of parakeets existing free in nature. Until that day, I had the stereotyped notion that they all lived in cages.

I ate lunch in a restaurant with a foot bridge that straddled the river. An odd-looking furry animal the size of a small dog was tied to a post near my table. 

Mismaloya
.
Sporting a long nose and quick bright eyes, he kept touching one of my sandals with his sharp-clawed paw, as if begging for food. I finally tossed him a morsel of meat, which he gobbled with delight. The waiter described the animal as a "tacon" - racoon in English. I learned later it was a coati, the Latin American cousin of the northern racoon.

Farther up Mismaloya valley I came to El Eden, a resort and restaurant thrust into the limelight when "Predator" was filmed in the nearby rainforest. One of the movie props, a destroyed helicopter, now rests outside El Eden as a tourist attraction.

For the adventurous who are in good physical shape, a long hike or horseback ride to a waterfall at the back of Mismaloya valley begins at a trailhead near El Eden. A professional guide is required since it is easy to get lost in the dense rainforest.

The round-trip hike takes 8 hours (not counting stops) and you will see hawks, parrots and other wildlife as well as brightly-colored bromeliads. The tropical jungle gives way to pine trees at a higher elevation. The waterfall consist of seven cascades with a drop of nearly 6,000 feet and from the top there is an exquisite view of Mismaloya bay and the encompassing Bay of Banderas. Swimming is available in the river or waterfall pools.

The more sedentary can visit Yelapa to see what Mismaloya beach looked like decades ago. Located several miles south, Yelapa is a relatively undeveloped artist's village that can only be reached by boat from Puerto Vallarta or Boca de Tomatlan. The boats leave each morning with afternoon returns.

Yelapa has no telephones and no electricity outside of one small hotel and restaurant, which are powered by a generator. The bay is much more pristine than Mismaloya, but has the same dramatic look of jungle cliffs reaching to the sea. A 115-foot waterfall is a short hike inland where a hillside cafe overlooks the waterfall pool.

Mismaloya is located about 10 miles south of the Puerto Vallarta, the much larger and more popular tourist town. The drive along the picturesque coast highway takes less than half an hour.
.

Yelapa
Yelapa

The Jungle On Raicilla 

Raicilla (pronounced "rye-see-ya," which means "little root" in Spanish) is a type of Mexican moonshine distilled from the fermented roots of the maguey cactus, the same plant from which tequila is made. It is much more potent than tequila, usually well over 100 proof. Like American moonshine, raicilla is illegal since it is produced and sold without government license. But it is easily available in the Mismaloya-Yelapa area where it is considered a traditional art form and largely tolerated by local police.

Even in small amounts, raicilla can produce a sudden violent and unpredictable inebriation that has been compared to the effects of a psychedelic drug. 

Convulsive gastric reactions and temporary motor paralysis are common. Often your first shot of raicilla will hit your gullet and then come right back up. There is no shame in this, even though seasoned raicilla drinkers will shake their heads in disgust. The second shot will usually stay down and then the fun begins.

.
Carry the bottle of raicilla and follow a foot-path into the rainforest near El Eden in Mismaloya valley. Two or three drinks later you will be ready to view the jungle from a whole new perspective. If you can still focus your eyes, you might even be able to see the alien creature who chased Arnold Swartzenegger in "Predator," a film shot in this very location. Of course it was fiction, but under the influence of raicilla, reality will seem like fiction and vice-versa.

Be sure to take a designated hiker along in case you pass out in the jungle. It's full of carnivorous critters and if you're alone, they might mistake your prone body for their next meal. Manage to stay conscious and you could see parakeets, snakes, iguanas, scorpions, wild orchids, etc. Don't reply if any of these animals or plants speak to you. It's only the raicilla talking.

The raicilla hangover has three stages. First you're afraid you might die. Later you're afraid you won't die. Then comes a period of mourning for deceased brain cells. Mismaloya bay is good for a refreshing swim to clear your head. The water is so salty its buoyancy will keep you afloat without moving an arm or leg. This is called the dead man's float, which is what you might be doing if you drank too much raicilla..

To contact Bill Click Here.
.

Rematch!
.
Send This WebPage To A Friend!
< Send a Letter to the Editor > < Subscribe> < Submit An Article >< Disclaimer>
.
...
| Add Url | Home | Contact | Advertising Send This Webpage To A Friend | Escape From America Magazine Index | Offshore Real Estate Quarterly | International Telephone Directory  | About Escape | Embassies Of The World  |  Report Dead Links On This Page| Maps Of The World | Articles On This Website | Disclaimer | Link 2 Us | Help | Jobs Overseas | International Real Estate | Find A CountryExpatriate Search Tools | Expat Pages | Offshore Merchant Accounts | Offshore Web Hosting | Offshore Investing | International Marketplace | Yacht Broker - Boats Barges & Yachts For Sale | Search Engines Of The World |
© Copyright 1996-2004 EscapeArtist Inc. All Rights Reserved