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Luxembourg
A Confluence Of Culture
I saw the giant red spheres at first from a distance. They rested calmly on the side of a steep grass hill facing a large rocky outcrop ominously known as the Bock.  The spheres lay about, in no particular order, resisting gravity and descending haphazardly towards the confluence of the Alzette and Petrusse Rivers in the meandering valley below.

Luxembourg City is indeed a place of precarious geography.  And so these spheres, from my perch above on the Adolphus bridge, seemed a perfect representation of the country and the feeling that overtakes one upon entering it: that often in this city, things that shouldn’t exist are possible.

Geographically the impossibility of Luxembourg is represented by its perilous location in Western Europe, nestled between Germany, France and Belgium.

This spot once necessitated the most powerful fortified city in Europe until the country removed its garrison to achieve independence and neutrality in accordance with the Treaty of London in 1867. 
 
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For the next hundred years, that neutrality would serve them well as the country dutifully survived two German invasions and the wars that came with them. That was no small feet, especially fo such a small country.

For at 999 sq. miles, Luxembourg is smaller than Rhode Island, and yet it remains a powerful focal point of European Government and boasts the highest per capita income in Europe.

These facets of Luxembourg’s modern society also bring a certain progressive attitude to the inhabitants of its capitol city. Walking down the street through a preponderance of cafes, international shops, luxury boutiques and hotels it’s striking to see most signs in four different languages, and even more amazing to discover that the a majority of employees and proprietors are fluent in all of them.

Like the rivers rushing below, a confluence of culture, language and history flow into and out of Luxembourg City. At Peche Mignon of the winding Rue de St. Esprit, a Spanish bartender mentioned she came to Luxembourg to study at its renowned school of language.

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“They speak better French here than in France,” she said. 

If this is true, it’s just one of the many examples of Luxembourg’s history of necessity. If necessity is the mother of all invention that necessity’s father is survival, and Luxembourg has survived to become one of the most successful and powerful cities in modern Europe. This small country, this infinitesimal capitol city is starkly international, cosmopolitan and sophisticated despite a large geographic circumference of bucolic countryside. It’s the center of the European Investment Bank as well as the European Criminal court. It is the poster child for the idea that great things come in small packages. 

But despite it’s grandeur amongst its far larger neighbors, its success both past and future, it was the country’s motto that struck me as I looked out over the giant red spheres and the lush valley below: Mir welle bleiwe wat mir sin, ”we want to remain what we are.”

I walked along through the park and towards the spheres with this motto in mind, the jagged, jutting rocks providing a fairytale ambiance to the city above me.

The spheres turned out to be an art exhibit chained stealthily to spikes driven deep into the hill. Yet it occurred to me that their abstraction was a fitting tribute both the city and the country’s storied past, that of progress, leaning forward, resisting the surrounding forces, yet grounded to the past, grounded to a motto of remaining what they’ve always been. Suddenly I was compelled to tumble down the hill between the spheres, down with the future of this country, amidst its past and the powerful forces it overcame to thrive in modern times. I fell, spinning faster and faster down through the maelstrom of abstract colors, the brilliant red of the spheres, the gold and yellow the late fall foliage, the blue, metallic sky above and the wet green grass still sweet and untouched by the winters first snow. As I came to a halt I imagined how this country must feel: spinning strangely through bizarre circumstance and abstraction, yet safe and curiously unscathed.
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Luxembourg City is indeed guided by strange ethereal forces. Shaped by time, geography and a strong yet gentle people, it has withstood the challenges of time, and pushed through bravely into the modern century. Like those spheres as I fist saw them, it exists as an entity that by all accounts should perish, and yet thrives. Like all that is priceless in Europe, Luxembourg exists because it must, because it is an example of what great cultures become, because it would be a crime to the people of world for it not to.

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