Luxembourg
A Confluence Of Culture
~ by W.B. Sullivan
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saw the giant red spheres at first from a distance. They rested calmly
on the side of a steep grass hill facing a large rocky outcrop ominously
known as the Bock. The spheres lay about, in no particular order,
resisting gravity and descending haphazardly towards the confluence of
the Alzette and Pétrusse Rivers in the meandering valley below.
Luxembourg
City is indeed a place of precarious geography. And so these spheres,
from my perch above on the Adolphus bridge, seemed a perfect representation
of the country and the feeling that overtakes one upon entering it: that
often in this city, things that shouldn’t exist are possible.
Geographically
the impossibility of Luxembourg is represented by its perilous location
in Western Europe, nestled between Germany, France and Belgium. This spot
once necessitated the most powerful fortified city in Europe until the
country removed its garrison to achieve independence and neutrality in
accordance with the Treaty of London in 1867. For the next hundred years,
that neutrality would serve them well as the country dutifully survived
two German invasions and the wars that came with them. That was no small
feet, especially fo such a small country. |
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"Aal
Brëck" or old bridge was built in 1859
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For at 999
sq. miles, Luxembourg is smaller than Rhode Island, and yet it remains
a powerful focal point of European Government and boasts the highest per
capita income in Europe.
These facets
of Luxembourg’s modern society also bring a certain progressive attitude
to the inhabitants of its capitol city. Walking down the street through
a preponderance of cafes, international shops, luxury boutiques and hotels
it’s striking to see most signs in four different languages, and even more
amazing to discover that the a majority of employees and proprietors are
fluent in all of them.
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Like
the rivers rushing below, a confluence of culture, language and history
flow into and out of Luxembourg City. At Peche Mignon of the winding Rue
de St. Esprit, a Spanish bartender mentioned she came to Luxembourg to
study at its renowned school of language.
“They speak
better French here than in France,” she said.
If this is
true, it’s just one of the many examples of Luxembourg’s history of necessity.
If necessity is the mother of all invention that necessity’s father is
survival, and Luxembourg has survived to become one of the most successful
and powerful cities in modern Europe. This small country, this infinitesimal
capitol city is starkly international, cosmopolitan and sophisticated despite
a large geographic circumference of bucolic countryside. It’s the center
of the European Investment Bank as well as the European Criminal court.
It is the poster child for the idea that great things come in small packages.
But despite
it’s grandeur amongst its far larger neighbors, its success both past and
future, it was the country’s motto that struck me as I looked out over
the giant red spheres and the lush valley below: Mir welle bleiwe wat mir
sin, ”we want to remain what we are.” |
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I walked along
through the park and towards the spheres with this motto in mind, the jagged,
jutting rocks providing a fairytale ambiance to the city above me.
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spheres turned out to be an art exhibit chained stealthily to spikes driven
deep into the hill. Yet it occurred to me that their abstraction was a
fitting tribute both the city and the country’s storied past, that of progress,
leaning forward, resisting the surrounding forces, yet grounded to the
past, grounded to a motto of remaining what they’ve always been. Suddenly
I was compelled to tumble down the hill between the spheres, down with
the future of this country, amidst its past and the powerful forces it
overcame to thrive in modern times. I fell, spinning faster and faster
down through the maelstrom of abstract colors, the brilliant red of the
spheres, the gold and yellow the late fall foliage, the blue, metallic
sky above and the wet green grass still sweet and untouched by the winters
first snow. As I came to a halt I imagined how this country must feel:
spinning strangely through bizarre circumstance and abstraction, yet safe
and curiously unscathed.
Luxembourg
City is indeed guided by strange ethereal forces. Shaped by time, geography
and a strong yet gentle people, it has withstood the challenges of time,
and pushed through bravely into the modern century. Like those spheres
as I fist saw them, it exists as an entity that by all accounts should
perish, and yet thrives. Like all that is priceless in Europe, Luxembourg
exists because it must, because it is an example of what great cultures
become, because it would be a crime to the people of world for it not to.
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