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Life In Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais, Brazil
“A Jewel In The Rough”
by Shane Jackson
For those that don’t know (I didn’t), Minas Gerais is a state in Brazil that is rich in history and natural resources.  Many may have heard of the historically preserved cities Ouro Preto or Diamantina famed for gold, silver, diamonds and other jewels found only here.  Many have not heard of the national parks and beautiful mountain ranges of Minas Gerais.  It’s primary population center is Belo Horizonte, a major center of commerce, agriculture, and industry.  I think it is the third largest city in Brazil.

Working internationally I had the great fortune to be assigned to a project in southern Brazil where I met a young lady from Minas Gerais.  The project was over too soon, I did not want to leave Brazil but that’s life in a 100 hr work week, little sleep, bad food and plenty of stress. 

My Brasilian babe came to see me in Mexico and I made trips to see her in Brazil as time permitted.  Next thing you know she’s pregnant!  A first for both of us.

At the consulate in Rio she was denied a US tourist visa even though I came down for the interview with her and had a letter from my employer.  It became clear we had to marry in order to get passports, visas, etc so we could travel as a family.  It’s not too complex but not that simple either, anyone needing information on this process feel free to email me.

Next thing you know I am married in Brazil with baby to follow less than two months later.  Two nights in the hospital for the birth cost $333 US, or less than one months [employer subsidized] health insurance premium in the US. 

We now live in a middle-class suburb west of central Belo Horizonte called Contagem.  We purchased a new two level penthouse and furnished it for less than $50,000 US. 

We have a GREAT view.  Our maid is here 5 or 6 days a week, costs $100/month US plus lunch and bus fare.  Unlimited in home internet access costs about $5 US/month.

Everything is within walking distance: barber, manicurist, fresh produce, bakery, butcher, dentist, pediatrician, pharmacy, grocery stores, health club, language schools, modern shopping mall with cinema featuring english speak American flicks, video stores with english speaking movies, restaurants, you name it!

The streets are cleaned daily in our bairro so the general Belo Horizonte trashiness is not too bad here.  For city living this is a good place…our core cost of living for a family of 3 is about $6,000 US per year.

There is night life if you want it…I’m told there are about 6 available women for every 1 available man…there do seem to be lots of pretty women here!  People are generally very friendly and relaxed, I’ve never felt threatened or unwelcome.  My Portuguese is now good enough I can make small talk about town.

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Major Futeball games take place here, the whole place goes bonkers for the big games.

Local food very good and is called “Mineira,” not unlike US country cooking.  My favorite local dish is chicken with okra.  Plenty of local cheeses, fruit, veggies, and liquor.  Local cigarettes are rolled in corn husk, no filters.  All you can eat barbeque (churrasco) is common and good.  My favorite meat here is pork, they are raised on a high fruit diet and the meat is delicious!  I have never had health problems with food in Brazil.

Speaking of health, there is a Yellow Fever Alert at our International Airport, you should get vaccinated for it if you plan on coming here.  There are a few other recommended vaccinations, see your travel clinic.  I’ve heard of one case of dengue in the past year.  City Sanitation actively attempts to eradicate dengue altogether.

A car is not required though they can be rented ranging from $300 to $700 per month.  We rented one to visit the local National Parks.  Our favorite is Serra do Cipo, about 2 hrs by car (there are 3 others that can be reached in about 6 hours including Serra de Canastra which has already been featured in “Escape from America” Magazine)

However, you can take a bus to the parks for much less money and less stress…seems you can take a bus anywhere in Brasil if you have the time.

There is an international airport about an hour from down town Belo Horizonte (Confins - CNF).  American Air flies in and out once a day.

There is a regional airport in town (Pampulha) , you can hop over to Rio de Janeiro and see your US consulate for about $65 US one way.  If you want to drive to Rio, I’m told it’s about 6 hours.

All of our Brazil Federal and State documents have taken care of right here in Belo Horizonte including legal translations, no plane tickets needed. Rio de Janiero is a great place to visit but Belo Horizonte is a better place live if you are not an ocean fan.

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We have much lower prices and less crime since we are off the beaten tourist path.  We have cooler weather since the ridge we live on is about 3000’ above sea level, sticky humidity rarely a problem.

The cloudscapes can be very dramatic given that we are on the transition from rain forest to semi-arid highlands.   From about mid-Oct to mid-May the weather is beautiful, a 60/80F channel with enough rain to keep things green and the air fresh.  Right now we are enjoying lots of ripe mangos, the mango tree being very common here.

My biggest Belo Horizonte complaints: (1) From mid-May through mid-Oct is the dry season (“winter”), global warming has not helped any.  It gets dry, grass turns brown and then the farmers set EVERYTHING on fire.  This is a nationwide phenomenon and it really messes up the air quality, it’s very UGLY and the effect is amplified here in Belo Horizonte by inversion layers that can set in and hold the smoke and smog here for a few days at a time. (2) Trash, local custom is somewhat Chinese-like, whatever it is, when you are done with it you just throw in on the ground.  In places where they don’t clean the streets things get trashy.  Poverty and  crime can be a problem but so far after 11 months living in various parts of Brazil I have not been a victim of crime. (3) Driving in town is intense, roads poorly engineered, poorly maintained, and haphazard.  Traffic is heavy but usually moving.

People generally obey traffic controls and there are lots of automatic speed traps.  However, no one takes “STOP” signs seriously…if you like stress this is a great place to drive…I prefer taxi or bus.  Motorcycles are also very common, they split lanes like mad men.

For info on ecotourism in Minas Gerais I recommend: “Turismo Ecologico – Minas Gerais” published by Empresa Das Artes, see: http://www.empresadasartes.com.br/publicacoes.php

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