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Pure Life
Traveling Through Costa Rica
by Dawnelle Salant
Pura Vida”. In Spanish it means “Pure Life” and is a phrase you’ll hear and see, everywhere in Costa Rica. The locals live this expression to the fullest and their love for life is evident on their smiling faces and in their kind actions to strangers. Some of the happiest people I have ever encountered were Costa Ricans. And why wouldn’t they be constantly cheerful? – You would be too if you could call one of the world’s most beautiful and exotic countries home. 

Costa Rica is one of Central America’s most popular destinations. Located between Nicaragua and Panama, Costa Rica has a population of approximately 3,900,000. The tropical country covers an area of 51,100 square kilometers, similar in size to West Virginia. There are only two seasons here – rainy and dry.

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The wet season usually starts in May and can last until December, making January and February the best time to visit. San Jose is where most organized tours begin and where the majority of tourists enter the country.

Similar to most other Central American capitals, San Jose is not much more than a busy city and one day here is usually sufficient. It is, however, considered the most cosmopolitan city of Central America and offers several options for those after a bit of intellectual stimulation. If you are interested in culture and art, Centro Nacional de Arte y Cultura (National Arts Center), occupies a full city block and features traveling international art exhibits as well as modern dance and experimental theatre.

The Museo Nacional de Costa Rica (National Museum) includes displays about Costa Rican history and culture dating from pre-Colombian times to the present. One highlight is a 2,500 year old jade carving.

Some of the most fascinating objects discovered at Costa Rica’s various archeological sites are the metates, or grinding stones.

Metates are still in use today around Central America, but the ones housed in the National Museum are ornately decorated, and some are the size of a small bed.

For gold lovers, a trip to the Museo de Oro Banco Central (National Museum) is a must.

Here you can see 1,600 pieces of pre- Columbian gold work dating from 500-1500 AD. 

Before leaving San Jose to explore the rest of the diverse country, take advantage of the many restaurants. Costa Rican food is not spicy as many believe. 

The diet is based around rice, beans, corn, vegetables, meat, chicken and fish. 

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A popular Costa Rican meal is Gallo Pinto – rice and black beans. It sounds quite simple, but is surprisingly tasty.

But let’s be honest. Most people come to Costa Rica to experience the scenery, environment, biodiversity and natural wonders that this dramatic country has to offer.

Monteverde Cloud Forest

Five kilometers from the village of Santa Elena lays one of Costa Rica’s most spectacular offerings – Monteverde (Green Mountain) Cloud Forest. This mountaintop phenomenon provides a rare glimpse into one of the world’s most threatened ecosystems.  I’d never even heard of a cloud forest until I landed in Costa Rica and researched what attractions were considered compulsory. Monteverde Cloud Forest was recommended by almost everyone I met, and I consider it to be the highlight of the entire country. 

A cloud forest is created when warm, damp air coming off the nearby ocean is forced upward by the slopes of the mountain.

As the moist air rises, it cools and forms clouds. The mountaintop is enveloped in dense clouds on a daily basis and the resulting moisture gives rise to a unique combination of life forms. Very little of the cloud forest is bare; there is some sort of plant growing in almost every square inch. Monteverde Cloud Forest covers 26,000 acres and is home to approximately 2,000 species of plants, 100 species of mammals and 400 species of birds. The one drawback, ironically, of a cloud forest is the clouds. Often they blanket the entire forest, making any of its wildlife hard to spot. 

Unfortunately, the day I chose to visit the nature preserve was very wet. I saw very little of the cloud forest’s inhabitants, but I had fabulous experience searching for them. 

The majority of the plants, animals and birds characteristic of a cloud forest live in the treetops. 

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This, of course, means going up to seek them out. There are two options available for those who don’t fear heights. I chose the most adventurous alternative – Sky Trek’s Canopy Tour, which basically involves zipping through the cloud forest canopy on a cable pulley system.

Strapping myself into the rappelling gear was easier than I had anticipated; I simply stepped into a harness that functioned as a seat when I was hanging from the cable. I was also given a pair of gloves to protect my hands.

Thankfully, the tour started off with a relatively short and low ride. Taking a small run from a wooden platform (screaming required) thrust me to the other side, where another wooden platform stood and guides waited to help steer me to safety. I realized then that the first cable was just a practice run, as the second platform was attached to trees that stood on the top of a hill. The third landing was much farther away, and at the top of a much taller set of trees. But being at the top of a cloud forest, immersed in, well, clouds, was rather exhilarating and I was anxious to see more. Despite the rain, I could still see a significant portion of the forest and was overwhelmed by how much green there was. I couldn’t find a break in the forest line anywhere. 

The cables kept getting higher and higher off the ground, and the view more magnificent. The clouds did a fine job of disappearing and reappearing, allowing me peeks at the stunning scenery. The green stretched on forever. But try as I might, I could not see any of the jaguars, ocelots, tapirs, orchids or quetzals (or anything that wasn’t green, for that matter) that the brochures promised. But I wasn’t disappointed. I was alone, 150 meters above one of the most beautiful environments I had ever seen, with the fresh air whizzing through my hair and stinging my eyes. And a good reason to come back one day.

Sky Trek has eleven cables that provide about 3.4 kilometers of zipping line. If rappelling through the forest doesn’t appeal to you, Sky Walk, a set of suspended bridges, allows you to walk your way around the canopy.

If wildlife eludes you as it did me, the Butterfly Garden displays many of Costa Rica’s most attractive species of butterflies. Some are mounted and preserved, but there are also areas where the butterflies fly free in their natural habitat. It is also possible to see other insects here, including cockroaches, some of which were the size of my hand.

Arenal

Arenal is Costa Rica’s most active volcano, and this makes it another of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. Even if geology was not your favorite subject, there’s nothing quite like the sights and sounds of an active volcano. Arenal Volcano is located 140 kilometers north of San Jose, near the tiny farming community of La Fortuna and is one of the world’s most regularly active volcanoes.

It is not possible to climb 1,600 meter Arenal due to its constant activity and eruptions. Its last major eruption was in July of 1968, when it sprang from hundreds of years of dormancy into sudden movement. Arenal National Park surrounds the area, and consists of 7,000 acres of viewing areas and trails over the old lava flows. Be warned, Arenal sits close to an expanse of cloud forests, which means that it, too, is often shrouded by clouds and rain, as it was on my visit. Thankfully, the mist and haze did little to dampen the Arenal experience. The best time to view the volcano is at night, when it is easier to see the red hot lava streaming down its sides. The clouds couldn’t completely obscure the sparks of red and orange spewing from the volcano into the night air. I was able to see enough color and movement to convince me that the volcano was indeed active. But perhaps more enthralling were the grumbles and groans that the volcano periodically produced. Maybe it was my imagination, but with every rumble, I could feel the earth shiver.

Night tours to the volcano are frequent and you’ll have plenty of choice from La Fortuna. If you have a car, drive towards Tabacon and Arenal National Park. The best views of the volcano are from the north and west sides of this road. There is one other way to view the volcano and its activity, and pamper yourself at the same time. Tabacon Hot Springs sits near the base of Arenal and its thermo mineral pools are heated by the volcano. The Hot Springs include natural mineral pools where the water runs freely into natural rock pools, some complete with waterfalls. Other man made pools surrounded by gardens are filled with the warm water, and feature amenities such as a swim up bar.

If soaking in thermal waters isn’t enough pampering for you, pay a visit to Iskindria Spa. Iskindria, the Spa at Tabacon Hot Spings, offers a variety of relaxing and renewing treatments. Why not have an aromatherapy massage, Tabacon’s Signature Mud Mask, or better yet – A Volcanic Body Wrap? All of the options offered take place in Arenal’s natural and tropical environment.

Although some find it difficult to completely relax while sitting at the foot of an active volcano, the warm water, a cold drink (like a Daiquiri perhaps), and the spectacular sights and sounds of Arenal make Tabacon Hot Springs an experience not to be missed.

Manuel Antonio

The beach. A visit to any tropical country is not really complete without at least one trip to the beach. Especially when it’s one of the most incredible beaches in the world. Quepos, the base for visiting Manuel Antonio National Park, is admittedly becoming overrun with hotels – they now stretch all the way down the 7 kilometer road leading to the park. The good news is that the area which everyone is there to see, Playa Manuel Antonio, is controlled and protected.

Closed on Mondays, there is an entrance fee of $6 and only a limited number of people can enter each day, so get there early. The one major drawback of the beach is that it is quite a distance from any of the hotels. The park itself is quite small and covers only 1,700 hectares, but the walk from the entrance is full of beauty and (without a doubt) wildlife. Trails lead visitors through the park and if you plan to hike around instead of just lie on the beach, bring a good set of walking shoes, or at least sturdy sandals. A circular hike around a tall outcropping will take you to Punta Catedral (Cathedral Point) which provides a breathtaking view of the Pacific’s blue water, rocky islands offshore and the rainforest directly below you.

There are actually three idyllic beaches within the park, Puerto Escondido, Playa Espadrillo and the most popular - Manuel Antonio. On the way to any of the three beaches, you will certainly discover bright pink flowers, purple and orange crabs, as well as countless monkeys. Both squirrel monkeys and white-faced monkeys inhabit the park, but squirrel monkeys are rarely spotted. White-faced monkeys on the other hand, are everywhere and some visitors consider them to be pests. Accustomed to tourists and tamed by their never-ending presence, these monkeys have no fear. It is not uncommon for them to approach you. I even saw one monkey dig through a lady’s knapsack while she took a mid-day swim.
 

Manuel Antonio’s sandy beach makes basking in the sun a pleasure. The calm, blue water invites swimmers and is often clear enough to encourage snorkelers. Crescent shaped, the beach is bordered by rocky sections where the tide catches and creates slippery pools of water that beg to be explored. It may be more crowded than it has been in past years, but the National Park ensures that the rainforest, its inhabitants and its beaches remain moderately untouched. Signs of development within the actual park are limited.

Isla Tortuga

Isla Tortuga, Turtle Island or Tortuga Island, makes a fantastic day trip. Located in the southeastern part of the Gulf of Nicoya, the island measures 120 hectares with its highest point reaching 172 meters above sea level. The island is state property but is leased to a Costa Rican family who devoted themselves to protecting the island from deforestation.  For almost twenty years they replanted the island and reintroduced species that were in danger of disappearing. Now, the tropical dry forest is visited by nature lovers from all over the world. A short catamaran trip (with an abundance of local Costa Rican beer - Imperial) brings you to the impressive island. White sand and shimmering blue water await your arrival and many visitors opt to do nothing more than frolic in the ocean or sunbathe on the perfect beach and enjoy the relaxing view.

A guided trail winds around the island, littered with signs explaining the island’s ecosystems, flora and fauna. At a slow pace, the trail takes only forty minutes. A tropical dry forest is characterized by high temperatures, very little precipitation and a long dry season. Its forest floor is relatively bare. During the dry season, many transformations take place. Most of the plants lose their leaves, growth slows and fruit and flower production consumes the plants’ energy. Butterflies, wasps, bats and birds become very active in their role as agents of pollination and seed dispersal.

Monkey ladder is one of the first plants marked on the trail. This slow growing vine is one of the most common in a dry forest. Some of the other plant life found on the trail includes guava fruit, termites, strangler figs, orchids and bromeliads. Trompillos, belonging to the coffee family, are also present on the island. The fruit it produces is edible and has a similar taste to guava. It serves as a vital food source for several animals on the island. Near the end of the trail sits a remarkable species of tree. The Naked Indian is named for its reddish trunk and belongs to the same family as the Camphor tree. When the branches of a Naked Indian are cut, they release a fragrant and flammable resin.

After some moderate climbing, nature rewards you with yet another breathtaking view. Looking out over the Pacific Ocean, two other islands are visible in the distance. What is perhaps more amazing are the various shades of blue that surround the land masses. The sand, rocks and dead coral at the bottom of the canals contribute to the various shades of water. Costa Rica has something to offer almost every traveler, whether you’re seeking thrilling adventure, superb scenery, art and culture, nature preserves or simply relaxing on a white sand beach. Costa Rica really is “Pure Life”.

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