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When we first started talking about moving to Mexico, my husband, Fred and I knew the first thing we had to do was select an area to live in. We planned to live in more than one place in the country, but our first place was the most important, as that would set the tone for our stay.  We started doing research, and read in a very few books about Xalapa...sometimes spelled "Jalapa," the origin place of the jalapeno pepper. What we discovered was intriguing to us, and made me contact an American in Xalapa to learn more. We found that there are very few Americans living in the area, so we would be in an area that had not been too "flavored" by Americans. We realized that this would be an opportunity for us to learn the language because we would be immersed in it all the time. This was attractive to us, as well. The real clincher was the mild weather in Xalapa. It is at an altitude of about 4500 ft. and is set into lush hillsides with the Sierra Madre mountains in the distance. You can see Mt. Orizaba which is the third highest mountain in North America, at over 18,000 ft. The city is lush with flowers and with culture. The Museum of Anthropology is one of the finest in North America, only surpassed by the museum in Mexico City. There are artifacts dating back over 3,000 years.  The art galleries, museums and music scene are rich with diversity. There is a large student population in Xalapa, as the University of Veracruz is headquartered here. There are many exchange programs, and students are from all over the world, adding to the international flavor.

Xalapa, the capital city of the state of Veracruz, lies in a coffee-growing region with high mountains overlooking the city. The town of Xalapa has a population of over 400,000 people, and the town was originally established by the Spanish as a trading stop on the route between the Gulf of Mexico and Mexico City.

Weather in Xalapa is very pleasant. The temperatures are very mild, in the mid to high 70s and low 80s during the summer months, with quick rains some days or in the evenings. The rain doesn't last, though, and keeps things green. In the winter months, it can get down to the 50s and 40s (at night), so you may need a jacket. Although at an altitude of 4500 ft above sea level, it doesn't snow! Only a couple of hours away, in Veracruz, you can swelter, if that's what you like, then return to Xalapa to cool off!
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The waterfall Texolo is located near Xalapa.

Clothing It all depends on if you want to be a "known" American or not. Determining that, you can then know what to wear in Mexico. For the colonial cities it is best to dress as the locals dress...women in skirts or dresses, or long pants and blouses. For men, long pants and long or short-sleeved shirts is the custom. There are not a lot of shorts worn in the cities, by men or women. In the beach towns, the dress code is different, and depending on the number of tourists, any manner of dress may be commonplace!  In Xalapa, many local women wear short skirts and tight pants, or skirts with deep slits in them, but you don't see very many in shorts. The young people wear jeans, and have not yet adopted the sloppy look many American teens are so fond of., and for school, most wear uniforms. Many adults wear jeans too, but usually they wear slacks. It is surprising how many women still wear high-heeled shoes or high-heeled sandals every day to work. Athletic shoes are worn everywhere. You see all the famous brands here too. Many Mexicans wear shirts and caps with American logos on them, so don't think you have to leave these items at home.  It may be a good idea to leave the majority of your jewelry at home, if you can. In Xalapa, remember the city is built on hills. It is not easy to walk the streets in heels, ladies, so be sure to bring comfortable shoes that won't flip-flop off when you're walking around! There are occasions when you can dress up very nicely, and depending on your lifestyle, you may want to remember to bring some dressy clothes with you. Men, sport coats and ties are not out of fashion in Mexico.  Don't forget to bring several pair of sunglasses! They're more expensive here, so you may want to stock up at home.

Your Home...

Rentals can run from modest to deluxe, and it is not difficult to find rentals for $300 (USD). There are rentals for less, and of course, for more. 

Before you rent any place, ask if there is a working phone line. If there is not, you will probably not be able to get one installed for a very long time (if ever!)

If you choose to buy property, seek counsel from a reputable attorney to give you all the legal information needed first

Telephones and Long Distance:

Internet phone services are good to have for long distance calling. We know "DialPad.com" works well ...the rates vary, but are about 3.9c a minute internationally, 1.9c in the US. Plans vary, so choose the plan that fits your needs.

For local phone calling, if you don't have a phone in your residence, cell phones are an alternative. Rates vary, so ask around once you get here. Also, purchasing phone cards for the public telephones is handy and the cards are available at many locations.
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Television and Internet: The local cable company is MegaCable for TV, and MegaRed for internet connection. You can also get a satellite dish to pick up stations from the US and around the world.  If your apartment or home does not have an internet connection already, you can find internet cafés to do your emailing. Most cost between 8 and 10 pesos per hour (about 80c to $1.00). If you bring your laptop with you into the country, be sure to bring along important software manuals. They are not available in English here, and are hard to get on-line. Better to be safe than sorry! It is best to leave your desktop computer in the states, as customs may charge you a hefty duty to bring it into the country. You should be able to keep your Internet Service Provider (MSN, AOL, Yahoo, etc) with no trouble. Smaller local companies from the states may not be available. We use MSN and have had no trouble connecting. Water: Drinking water is purchased in 19-liter jugs (almost 5 gals.), and there are a few companies that deliver it right to your door. Runs about 17 pesos a bottle ($1.70 or so). We use "Xallapan," and they come once or twice a week. Most people buy water for drinking. We use the Xalapa tap water all the time for brushing our teeth, making our coffee and cooking. We have not been sick yet from the water!  Cooking Gas: Gas is propane, and is delivered to your home. Each 30 k. cylinder costs about 200 pesos (about $20). If you are living on a 2nd floor or higher, tipping the gasman for carrying the cylinder is appreciated. Most places are not heated, but the temperatures usually only get down into the 50s and 40s (f) at the coldest times. Space heaters work well. In Xalapa, the summer temperatures don't get real hot, so ceiling fans or standing floor fans seem to be sufficient, as opposed to buying an air conditioner.  Getting Around: City Buses cost 4.5 pesos, (about 45c) and go everywhere around town! We have found taxis to be efficient and inexpensive. There are no meters in the taxis, so your driver will tell you what you owe when you get there. We have found most rides to be less than $3.00, around town. For inter-Mexico travel, you can get almost anywhere from Xalapa via bus. The bus system in Mexico is the largest in the world. The Deluxe, Executive and First Class buses, are Mercedes Benz or Volvo buses, and very comfortable. They also leave on time. If there isn't a route from Xalapa, then you can go to Puebla. It is a major hub, and it's more convenient than Mexico City. We took a bus from the Texas border town of Reynosa down to Veracruz.

This is the Cabeza Closal Olmeca in Villahermosa, Tabasco, Mexico. The six heads were carved by the Olmec civilization that flourished on the Gulf Coast of Mexico from1200 to 900 B.C. The heads are made of basalt rock that was extracted 50 miles from where the heads now stand. The heads stand 8 to 9 feet tall and are thought to resemble Africans. The Olmecs were the first pre-Columbian Mesoamerican civilization and they developed the notion of zero, had their own hieroglyphic writing and developed a calendar system. The Olmec civilization lies below the roots of the Mayan, Zapotec, Mixtec and Aztec world's. Villahermosa is located south of Veracruz. Many of the Olmec heads can be seen in Xalapa.

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The bus was a real luxury bus with fully reclining seats, blankets, pillows, and even movies. We left at night, and slept most of the way, allowing us to arrive in Veracruz mid-morning, refreshed. We caught another bus to Xalapa, and it was a short 2 hour ride. We heartily recommend the bus system here, as it is the major way for the people to get from city to city, since most don't own cars. Every type of person rides the bus, from executive to student. Classes of bus vary, so you can choose how you would like to travel. For long trips, we recommend "GL," which stands for "grand luxury." The buses have fewer seats, as well as separate bathrooms for men and women. Our fare to Xalapa from Reynosa was about $91. $85 to Veracruz, and $6.40 to Xalapa.
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Jan Morgan is living in Xalapa, Mexico, with her husband, Fred. They are retired, he as a Fire Chief from Chicago, she as a former buying agent and editor. Before they moved to Mexico, they lived in Pueblo, Colorado for 8 years. They have traveled the United States extensively, and are now discovering the wonders of Mexico. To contact Jan Click Here

Also, the website www.ticketbus.com.mx will help you get the most up-to-date information from your computer for many, but not all, of the bus lines in Mexico. Be prepared...it is in Spanish. All you really need to do is type in your "leaving from" city and your "destination" city from the list published there, and the times and bus lines will show up on the screen, with the travel times and prices, and number of stops.   Cars: It will make your life easier if you don't bring a car with you into Mexico. There is a lot of paperwork involved in bringing a car into the country. You should not operate a vehicle in Mexico without Mexican car insurance. Even with insurance, the jeopardy you may encounter, especially being from another country, can be tremendous! Your US car insurance will not be valid in Mexico. There are many reputable car insurance companies. Overall, we have found that the hassle involved in owning a car in Xalapa is not worth it. We walk, take taxis and buses wherever we want to go. If you will be living in an outlying area, though, you may need to have a car of your own.  One thing to remember: if you leave a car in the states in storage, either with family, friends or in a public facility, don't forget to change your auto insurance to reflect the fact that it is not being driven! Saves lots of money. For a complete list of what is necessary to bring a car into the country, see our website www.mexicoanswers.com.

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Your Health:

Immunizations are not necessary to enter Mexico. We had some, just to be on the safe side, though. We got Hepatitis A/B (referred to as "Twinrix", a 3-series immunization that you take over a 5 month period); typhoid fever (an oral immunization taken over 8 days), a polio booster, a tetanus-diphtheria booster and yellow fever (we plan to visit South America, that's why we got a yellow fever shot). 

Wash your hands often, and remember that germs can be passed on in any number of ways, besides eating or drinking them! We heard a story about a couple traveling through Mexico where the husband was the one to experience intestinal disorders more often than his wife. They finally figured out that even though they ate the same food and drank the same beverages, he handled the money most often. You can carry anti-bacterial wipes with you, or use waterless hand sanitizers. 

Prescription Drugs:

Until you establish a relationship with a doctor here, bring enough of your prescription medicine with you. We had our doctors give us prescriptions for a 6-month supply, that we had filled in the US. Bring photocopies of all prescriptions and of your medical records, and keep your prescriptions in their original bottles. You don't want any hassles crossing the border. Don't forget to bring extra contact lenses, or the prescription for them, or for eyeglasses. If you use a "pill minder," those little boxes to store your daily meds, bring extra ones with you. They're not easy to find here. 

If you develop a common illness, most pharmacists can assist you at the local (and plentiful) farmácias here. We have gotten medicine for chest colds and toothaches right from the pharmacist. 

Dental services cost much less here than in the US, so if you need work done, don't hesitate to use one of the highly skilled dental professionals here. 

Insurance:

International medical insurance, we feel, is a must. Your medical coverage from the US usually will not cover you while living outside the US. Check your company to be sure. Flight for life coverage is also good to have, and is relatively inexpensive. 

Banking:

We use Wells Fargo Bank in the US. They have a connection with Bancomer here in Mexico. Some other banks that have relationships with Mexican banks are: California Commerce Bank, Scotia Bank, and Bank of America. You can find information on the Internet. Check with your bank to see if they have any relationships with Mexican Banks. One thing we found is that money withdrawal fees from the US via ATMs add up quickly. (One month we were charged $150 for bank charges!) If you don't want to withdraw lots of money at one time, it is best to open a Mexican bank account. To establish a Mexican bank account, you will need to update your visa from "tourist" to FM-3. (For more information on immigration, refer to our website www.mexicoanswers.com )

Mail:

Mail service from the states takes about 2 weeks. We use a mail service (like Mail Boxes, etc) to send our mail twice a month, and they use our Fedex or UPS account numbers. A bit more expensive, but gets to you faster and a bit more secure. Have your mail service filter out the junk mail and credit card offers, if you tend to get lots of them, to make your mail less bulky. Costs less too. You may wish to check into getting your own FeDex or UPS account number. We kept a US address, as we felt it was easier for our friends, family and US billing companies to use that address.

If you use the mail from here to US, stamps are 85c each, and do not have glue on them. Use the glue pot on the counter at the post office, or take a glue stick. Mail collection bins are scarce. Main post office (correo) is also the place to get your immigration papers filed, if you wish to get FM3 visas in Xalapa. 

Shopping:

We try to buy all our fruits and vegetables at the open-air markets because of the quality and freshness, not to mention the low prices! The markets are a real experience to behold. Every few feet is a stall offering your choice of vegetables, fruits, peppers, and seasonings. Wooden crates are stacked everywhere, workers are carrying bunches of bananas in from the trucks, 50-lb bags of onions and tomatoes are hoisted overhead to squeeze through the crowded aisles, and all the time the smells of cooking food permeates the air. Cooks are serving up the day's specials, and juice is fresh-squeezed into plastic bags with straws protruding for your drinking ease. People crowd around these small counters, and soak up the goodies with freshly made tortillas, served hot. Usually a plate will cost you less than 10 pesos. But let's remember, we came here to buy vegetables and fruit at a low cost! As an example, we recently bought a huge bunch of radishes (at least 30) for 4 pesos (about 40c)! Limes are the staple here, not lemons, and we can buy 15 limes at a time for about 60c. We use the limes to make juice, just as you would lemonade. The tastes of fresh melons, mangoes, pineapples, bananas, pears, apples and strawberries cannot be described! To make it even better, the sweet taste of saving money lingers for a long time. Take your peso coins to the market, as most things will cost only a few centavos.

When you shop at the open-air markets, take tote bags with you, or buy a mesh bag (bolsa) with plastic handles while there. 

Wash all your vegetables and fruit with either water purifier drops, or a few drops of bleach and dish soap in a dish pan.

Miscellaneous Surprises:

I was shocked to find that my hair cut only cost 30 pesos (yes, that's just $3.00). There are many shops (mostly called Unisex salons) that offer beauty services and barber services.

Health and vitamin stores are plentiful. There is a GNC at Plaza Las Animas, in Xalapa, and other small shops are around town.

Big Stores are around Mexico now. In this area there are branches of Wal-Mart, Sam's Club, Costco and Office Max, to name a few. Be sure to take your Sam's Club and Costco membership cards with you.

In Xalapa:

Wal-Mart (Plaza Cristal)
Costco (Plaza Animas, "suburb" east of Xalapa Centro)
Chedraui (Plaza Cristal, Plaza Animas, and other locations)
Office Max (Las Animas)
Sam's Club is located in Veracruz, 2 hours away.
Big Movie Theaters:
Las Animas, Plaza Cristal, Plaza Museo

Most movies are in English, and subtitled in Spanish. Many animated movies and children's movies are dubbed in Spanish, and not subtitled in English. When you choose the movie, see whether the word "doblado" is next to it. If it is, the movie will be in Spanish (dubbed). The movie entrance price is around $3.30, and Wednesday is a bargain day, when the price is even cheaper. 

Restaurants:

There are a great many fine restaurants in Xalapa, and many small family-run restaurants and little food counters as well. There are foods for every taste and price range. Many establishments offer "comida corrida," the daily lunch special, and it can be as inexpensive as 20 pesos ($2.00) for a complete meal, from soup to dessert. Vegetarian restaurants are easy to find too. There are vendors on the street corners and in the parks, selling boiled corn, which they coat with mayonnaise, chile pepper and lime. You can also find bags of fresh chunks of coconut or cucumber, also sprinkled with chile pepper or hot sauce and lime, deep fried potato chips, bananas, and a host of other goodies. You may want to go easy on buying food on the street until your gastrointestinal system has had a chance to get used to the foods.

You can also find the American franchises McDonald's, Kentucky Fried Chicken and Burger King. down here, so if your craving for American burgers won't leave you, don't worry...you'll always be able to find some fries to salt!

Walking, Jogging, Working Out:

In Xalapa, there is a series of 3 adjoined lakes, Los Lagos, which is a great place to walk, jog or ride a bicycle. It is about 2 miles around all three, and is located by the University. It is full of fish and turtles, and we have seen people feed the fish with bits of tortillas. It's amazing how the fish swarm and jump out of the water to get these tasty morsels! There is no swimming allowed in Los Lagos, and we have never seen anyone fishing there either. 

For the tennis player, there are clubs around the city. In Las Animas, (kind of a suburb) you will find "Club Britannia." You can play tennis, work out, swim, and even get barber or beauty shop needs filled. The rates, as of July, 2003 were as follows: Per day $100 pesos per person (about $10 US), $1550 pesos per month (about $155US)), $6000 pesos for 6 months (about $600 US) and $8000 for a couple for 6 months (about $800 US). There is a beautiful golf courses in Xalapa as well. 

Language:

You will need to know some basic Spanish to get along. People will try to help you if you try to use the language, so basic phrases are important. Don't be embarrassed to ask a person to speak more slowly so that you can understand them. And speak English slowly to them, as well, if they don't understand much English. Remember to always be polite...very important here! Have your electronic translator or dictionary with you when you go out. English is not spoken by very many people in Xalapa.

The Universidad Veracruzana is headquartered here, so Spanish-language classes are available all the time. Private tutors can be hired to teach you at home, if you wish, so you can check at the Universities where you are.

In Xalapa, do not expect to find English-language newspapers or bookstores. English-Spanish dictionaries are easy to find here, and cost less than in the US. Don't lug a lot of dictionaries with you if you don't have to! A must-have book to help you with the language is "501 Spanish Verbs," by Christopher Kendris, Ph.D., available in US large bookstores.

A hand-held electronic translator (we have a Franklin brand)is an invaluable asset. You can find one (or another reputable brand) at office supply stores in Mexico and the states, such as Office Max, Staples, etc. They run about $50. If you don't speak Spanish yet, you will use this translator often!

Cultural Amenities of Xalapa:

There are world-class museums (especially Museo Antropología and El Lencero) in Xalapa, galleries of fine and folk art, the symphony, (acclaimed to be one of the best in Latin America), several ballet folkloricos, along with music and dance of all kinds in schools, clubs and even local halls and restaurants. We can tell you from experience, the symphony is great. The season starts at the end of August, and continues through December. Opening night was superb, with selections of Beethoven, with a full chorale ensemble and 4 soloists. The tickets for general seating are just 40 pesos. The theater in Xalapa is beautiful, with acoustics as fine as any major concert hall in the US.

Miscellaneous Tips:

Have an umbrella. If you don't feel like bringing one in your luggage, you can buy one along the street for about 20 pesos.

Don't bring lots of clothes with you! You can find lots of clothing here, and it is less expensive. Bring your most comfortable walking shoes, and if you need more, shoe stores (zapaterías) are everywhere! And unless you use specialty or smaller-name brands of toiletries, they are all here too. Baby products, hair coloring products, soaps, lotions and shampoos abound. 

There are no "laundromats" as we know them in the states, and you probably will not find a rental with a washer and dryer. You will find small shops, called "lavanderias." The operator washes, dries and folds your laundry and charges by the kilo weight (1 kilo = 2.2 lb.). It is usually done the same day, within about 4 hours. Your clothes are then sealed in a large plastic bag. Dry cleaning shops are easy to find, as well, especially in the downtown (centro) area.

Insect repellant is good to have. Sold in grocery stores and pharmacies. You will find very few places in Xalapa with screens on the windows. Don't get flustered by bugs here, either. You'll probably see "cucarachas" from time to time, and you can spray or put out repellants for them. They are just a part of life! It is best to not keep grain foods accessible to bugs, so keeping the food in ziploc bags or in the refrigerator has worked for us.

Siesta Time:

In many cities and towns, stores are closed from 2 till 4, then open again till about 8 p.m. Be sure to check at your local stores to see if they observe this custom. 

If it is not clear by now, we love living in Xalapa, and would recommend it to anyone who will enjoy the "Mexican feel" of a city. Come experience the fragrance of the flowers!

For questions or comments, contact us at mexicoanswers@mexicoanswers.com
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