| Well, they
were back for the 100-year celebrations, the West Indian\Panamanians,
and I wasn’t sure why and neither were any of the other people who live
in Panama, from the President to the man-on-the-street. They were all from
some small Panamanian Canal Zone association in the states and wanted to
have their picture taken with the President of Panama, and quite
honestly she wasn’t in the picture-taking mood so that mission failed.
What they did bring were some top-notch A-plus marching bands. Ruben
Blades played: but he wanted money and then backed off and played for
free. In Panama Blades is political – though an outsider as he doesn’t
live here most of the time and isn’t a businessman.There were almost a
100,000 people out in the streets of Panama City partying and having fun.
And to the
credit of Panama, few to none were injured: can you imagine what would
happen in the U.S.or the U.K. if 100,000 people went wild in the streets.
Colin Powell made a brief visit, but left quickly – all the top American
brass fly into Panama and then get out quickly. In the old days many American
politicians, especially in the Carter Administration, would fly into the
Canal Zone to go……..forget it.
We started
to celebrate the 100-year anniversary on Friday, but by Saturday I was
feeling the wear and tear of a sport’s injury. My back had ripped and I
was in great pain. So throughout the whole centennial celebrations I was
confined to a bed, listening to Graham Bond and Alexis Korner. As recuperation,
I watched a Latin American T.V. channel called Casa Club T.V., which shows
Canadian T.V. programs about home improvement, interior designing and cooking;
Canadian people jumped up and down in the air celebrating the redesigning
of their attic, work space or city loft. Everything in these programs was
directed towards “the space”, what should we do with "the space”. To fight
the pain, I took some painkillers that put me in a neither nor world of
lightness and shadows; everything had black lines around it. But I knew
I needed to be on my feet by Wednesday as I was supposed to attend the
U.S-Panamanian baseball game with writer and good friend R.M. Koster.
The Baseball
Game
We arrived
to R.M. Koster’s house at 7:00, the game was supposed to start at 8:00.
Gabi, R.M. and I drank some Glenmorange scotch, talked about dogs and cats
and whether or not we were going to be able to see Frank Robinson, the
coach of the American team. R.M. Koster had met Frank Robinson in 1979
when Robinson had coached a team in Puerto Rico. Robinson had been difficult
to talk to, but had told Koster that the main thing to winning a game was
making these idiots think they could. I had met Robinson before Koster:
it was 1977 in a Pennsylvania highway hotel basement where Robinson was
signing autographs and promoting season tickets for the Baltimore Orioles
and having dinner with fans. The hotel restaurant where the fans’ dinner
took place had dark brick, dark raw iron, dark wood, yellow glass, spigots
on the walls coming out of phantom beer kegs and spot-lighting high above
Robinson’s head – in other words, great. I was 10 at the time and a little
league baseball player. At that time Robinson was a coach for the Baltimore
Orioles team and had just resigned from the head-coaching job at Cleveland.
In 1975 Robinson was named the first black head coach in baseball and after
a year and a half he had quit as head coach of the Cleveland Indians. Rico
Carty and Buddy Bell had been on Robinson's team in 1975, but Robinson
had deep problems from some other players: the biggest problem, for Robinson,
came from a player by the name of Gaylord Perry, Gaylord Perry was
white and from North Carolina; Frank Robinson was black and from Texas.
In his first
game of the season as head coach of the Cleveland Indians in 1975,
Robinson had put himself in the game and at his first at bat had hit a
home run, which helped Perry, a pitcher, win the game. But Perry questioned
Robinson’s abilities as did Perry’s brother Jim, who was also a pitcher
on the Cleveland team. Robinson survived the Perry brothers, both were
forced out of Cleveland, and when my mother asked Robinson in the hotel
basement in the Fall of 1977 or Spring of 1978 what he thought of Cleveland,
he said, “don’t even talk to me about the place, I am glad to be out of
there.” I liked his direct use of English. When I heard what Robinson had
said to my mother, it stuck in my mind, even after all these years, though
I could never figure out who had said it, but with the 100-year celebrations
in Panama and the baseball game as part of the celebrations and Robinson
as head coach of the American Olympic team, I remembered that it was Robinson
who had said it. R.M. Koster had sent a fax to the airport hotel where
Robinson was staying with the team, but had heard no response from Robinson.
The baseball
stadium in Panama seats 25,000; it has parking for 500. We had to walk.
The large stadium sits in a little hole surrounded by small hills in what
I think was part of the former Canal Zone, though I may be wrong
about that. We entered the stadium, presented our tickets and as we entered
the inner-realm of the stadium and began looking for our seats, there was
an explosion and then light and screaming. I looked to my right and a young
kid of say thirteen stood up and the back of his shirt had been burnt off
and the skin shown through black and red. When the explosion had gone off
the people nearest to it had smiled and laughed and now they were screaming.
R.M Koster and I thought that they had been playing with some firecrackers
and some had gone off by mistake; later we would learn that the rocket
explosion and been fired from far off in a field outside the stadium and
it had mistakenly landed in the stands. After the explosion some people
screamed and we found out that boxing legend Roberto Duran had entered
the stadium. The police reacted quickly and after sometime a ambulance
came through the center field fence and then the strangest thing happened:
the ambulance started to drive toward the opposite side of the field from
where the injured were located and the whole crowd of, say, 10,000 people
stood up and told the ambulance driver he was going in the wrong direction.
The driver
made a hard right as the crowd demanded, almost hit the American team and
stopped to pick up the injured. As the injured were taken from the field,
the American team clapped and Frank Robinson looked on with concern.
A rain started
after the rocket landed and then stopped. The game started; it wasn’t
very good and the Americans won. We left the stadium and started the long
walk back through the night. The next day there were reports in the newspaper
about how one of the injured from explosion at the baseball stadium was
in a deep coma. And later the Americans lost to the Mexicans who hadn’t
won a game.
If you plan
to visit Panama and want to have a personal guide show you around Panama
City, then I recommend Panama Tropical Tourguides.
The owner is a good friend and Cambridge-educated sociologist that can
take you beyond the tourist traps straight to the unknown parts of Panama.
To set up tours of Panama with Panama Tropical Tourguidess contact:
cefvm@yahoo.com |