Living In Botswana ~ The Real Crocodile Hunters
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Living In Botswana ~ The Real Crocodile Hunters
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I have watched fourteen sunrises and fourteen sunsets in this hostile yet beautiful land. I am truly sad that I must leave Africa. I believe it is my spiritual home although I do not belong here. This land does not need me, yet it lives in me, a burning desire to return and once again stand and sip hot coffee as the golden sun gently pokes its head over the great tentacled Okavango Delta. Images and thoughts of this wondrous land evoke and provoke many words, yet this land can silence even the most poetic wordsmith as its awesome spiritual pull bites deeply at even the most hardened core. I need its memories and its offerings. Oh how privileged I am.” These few sentences are excerpts from my journal written daily on my most recent trip to Botswana, an overwhelming experience that I will be retracing in a few weeks.
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I suppose I felt much like Albert Einstein after he developed his theory of relativity and have taken poetic license from his famous quote: “When you put your hand on a hot stove for a second it feels like a week, when you get to spend a week in Africa it feels like a second.”

So much of Africa has changed in recent decades. Yet much has remained unchanged.  Unfortunately, it is that “unchanged” part that is becoming more and more difficult to preserve. Many visitors like myself want to help. Funding is crucial, but money alone is not the answer. For a living, I’m a professional soccer coach. Yet in my heart I am a devoted conservationist.

For the past twelve years thousands of children in New Jersey have come through my year round soccer facility for training. In all my training sessions, I have blended the beauty of soccer with the beauty and necessity of wildlife conservation. Each year, I feature a different endangered animal on the camp T-shirt, and the children respond enthusiastically. I often thought to myself,“Could the international language of soccer actually assist in this tremendously important effort?”It can and it is. But first, let me back up a few steps. Africa is a vast continent defined by conservationists as “safe” and “dangerous” places for animals.

Many countries within the continent recognize the need to conserve. A leader in Southern Africa is my beloved Botswana.

This country is home to an eclectic array of wildlife. A thriving economy has allowed an organized, caring government to set aside enormous tracts of land for parks and reserves.  With the Botswana tourist industry insisting upon a high cost low volume approach; this diamond in the rough offers the best of everything that an untamed “African Experience” can give to its visitors without itself being destroyed.

Entry to Botswana requires the obligatory border stop with shoe bathing an additional act designed to prevent the spread of disease. Once on the roadhouses with powder blue colored walls draw the eye from the otherwise scorched landscape.

These vivid colors remind me of the small Greek churches with powder blue domes atop their snow white walls scattered over the numerous Cyclades Islands of the Mediterranean. As you press deeper into Mopane (mo-par-nee) woodland, large grey figures occasionally startle and a violent trumpet always follows. The tough thickets hide a perfectly balanced world where living and dying is an every day occurrence. Yellow hornbills carry messages from tree to tree as small creatures scurry away from the oncoming safari vehicles.

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The blanket of vegetation hides another large awkward mammal whose daily ritual is dictated by the ebb and flow of the herds, packs, gaggles and prides. Dotted around the landscape in Botswana are some of the true foot soldiers of wildlife conservation and the people whose grueling work will allow the awestruck to return. 

The research/conservation scientists that live in the bush with the animals are indeed the real anonymous “Crocodile Hunters.” Home to them is a jerry-rigged 12 volt light hooked up to a car battery. A car is needed to drive the 50 feet from the kitchen to the sleeping tents unless you intend to be dinner for a waiting fat cat! Home is checking your shoes for slumbering mambas and tying down anything that moves to stop the baboons from decorating the trees. Home is sleepless nights at the wheel of a Land Rover as you strain and painstakingly observe a pride of lions: “left paw moved two inches,”  “pride male rolled over” and so it goes on night after night, day after day all over Africa entire families live this lonely, spartan existence.

This is coupled with the constant fear of murderous poachers, an unforgiving clientele that would truly rather eat you than look at you, freezing cold nights, blistering hot days, and for what?

It is all in the name of conservation and science. These dedicated heroes paw over every detail establishing how best to conserve the fragile ecosystems and animals that live within them. They do this with shoestring budgets and against mounting odds as locals claim land and increasingly dabble in the highly profitable bush meat trade. Coup d’etats and rebel forces exist in the ranges of many of Africa’s most endangered species. These threats still do not deter the hardened men and women that call the bush home as they continue the endless struggle.

With the world’s preoccupation fixated on terrorism and the economies of some countries still stumbling to their knees much needed funding and attention has been lost for these noble causes. As with tourism in all places Africa has been hard hit by the global drop in vacationers. Safari companies are feeling the pinch and this in turn tightens the noose on local economies that had finally been persuaded to turn to the tourist dollar verses the blood stained currency generated by the poacher and bush meat trade.

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