| Today
Walvis Bay serves as a major port for Namibia and its fishing industry.
While most places in Swakopmund are more or less in staggering distance,
Walvis Bay is rather spread out. It is not touristy at all, which is good
news in case you tick a little similar to me. In case you ever end up in
Namibia, do not give the Etosha National Park a miss. Etosha is the biggest
game park in Africa. It is situated in the north of Namibia towards the
border to Angola.
Everybody has
heard of the Kruger National Park in South Africa. But not everybody has
heard of Etosha. Etosha is almost as big as Wales. You need to spend at
least a couple of days there to get a realistic impression. As there is
no public transport in Etosha, you need some sort of vehicle. A jeep is
always a good idea in Africa. When cruising around in Etosha, do not be
surprised if you end up having a rhino in front of your jeep after reversing
the vehicle for example. I know what I am talking about. Just keep your
nerves.
Namibia in
general is characterized by vast deserts. The infrastructure and highways
do not leave to be desired. Even though the country drives on the left
hand side of the road, there is so little traffic in the countryside that
it does not really matter whether you drive on the left or right hand side
of the road. Every now and then you see a black walking along the highway.
Two questions cross your mind considering the size and emptiness of the
country. First, where is he coming from? Second, where is he going?
Botswana
Since
independence from colonial rule, there are not a bunch of success stories
in Africa. Botswana is one of the very few success stories in Africa. Botswana
is situated east of Namibia and north of South Africa. Shortly after the
country’s independence in 1966, three of the most significant diamond mines
in the world have been discovered there. In terms of health, education
and economy Botswana is head and shoulders above the rest of Africa except
South Africa.
Most of Botswana
consists of wilderness. By wilderness I mean savannas, deserts and wetlands.
The best known desert there is the Kalahari. Lots of the wilderness there
is either without anything that deserves to be called roads or the roads
are gravel roads. All this means that Botswana is not everybody’s cup of
tea. Forget about Botswana if you are timid and fearful. However, if you
are into things like deserts and wilderness, adventure and solitude, do
go to Botswana. Try to imagine this – You cruise around in the Kalahari
desert in a jeep. You spend the night outside in the wilderness. Sleeping
outside in the African wilderness is an experience that is one of a kind.
You go to sleep early. There is no civilization. You wake up early in the
morning, at five o’clock or half past five. The sun rises early. The sunshine
gets plenty strong early in the morning.
The animals
make an incredible noise. You can no longer sleep. You have to get up.
However, when you sleep in the wilderness, do keep one thing in mind. Do
make a very big fire before going to sleep. It must be so big that it is
still burning the following morning when you wake up. If you do not, you
may be dead when you wake up – as a consequence of an unwanted visit by
animals. Years after sleeping in the African wilderness, I still have the
habit of chucking my pillow out of bed when going to sleep.
One of Botswana’s
main attraction is the Okavango Delta. The Okavango Delta is the largest
inland delta in the world and is situated in the Northwest of the country.
It buzzes with wildlife. The wildlife ranges from birds in all shapes and
sizes to zebras and elephants, bufallos and giraffes and who knows what
else. After experiencing wildlife in Africa, you are no longer fond of
going to a zoo.
The main center
of the Okavango Delta is Maun. I have certain difficulties with the notion
of calling Maun a city. However, Maun serves as something like the regional
hub. There is also the main regional airstrip. As Maun does not really
fit the bill for a city, neither does the airstrip fit the bill for an
airport. Even though there are now hotels and lodges, Maun continues to
radiate the flair of a rural frontier town. In a nutshell, Botswana’s wilderness
and deserts will satisfy your heart’s desire if you are a little adventurous
and independent.
Zimbabwe
While Botswana truly deserves to be called a success story, Zimbabwe does
not. Zimbabwe may be called loads of things but not a success story, no
matter how you define success story. An article in “The Economist” recently
pointed out a few facts that illustrate why Zimbabwe is light years away
from being a success story.
The country’s
gross domestic product went south by a third in the past three years. Inflation
has now reached four hundred and twenty per cent. Seventy per cent of the
population live in poverty. There are at least five thousand street children
in the capital Harare. As if all this is not bad enough, the government
of Robert Mugabe is virtually in the process of completely wrecking the
economy by having forced almost all remaining whites in the country off
their farms. The government has seized white farm land without compensation.
It claims that the purpose of the exercise is to rectify colonial injustices.
However, instead of giving the land to black farmers, the government allocates
it to political cronies. They know as much about farming as I do about
table dancing.
At the same
time, Zimbabwe is amazingly beautiful and offers lots of attractions. The
most famous of these attractions is Victoria Falls. The huge Victoria Falls
drop into the Zambezi, one of the biggest rivers in Africa. On the other
hand, Victoria Falls is a typical tourist trap. There is even a casino.
Even though I have seen the interior of only two casinos in my life – in
Victoria Falls and in Auckland – it goes over my head why people seek entertainment
there. The atmosphere in casinos is depressing. On the way back to Johannesburg,
I spent a few days in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe’s second largest city. When I
graced Bulawayo with my presence, it radiated a rather relaxed attitude
with its wide tree – lined streets. It is a pleasant enough place on the
fringe of the Kalahari. Although it is worth sussing out Zimbabwe, it may
be wise to wait until Robert Mugabe is history. It will happen. You reap
what you sow in life. When you reap bloody rubbish, you will sow bloody
rubbish. Robert Mugabe will join the ranks of the departed sooner or later.
Concluding
Thoughts
The Nobel Prize
for literature was awarded this year to John M. Coetzee. John M. Coetzee
is the second white South African writer, who was awarded the Prize after
Nadine Gordimer in 1991. In his post – Apartheid novel “Disgrace” John
M. Coetzee displays a very critical attitude to the new South Africa. Coetzee
appears to relay the message that there is no place for whites in the new
south Africa. He emigrated to Australia last year. It seems to confirm
a current trend in Africa. There is a significant white population in Africa,
in particular in South Africa, Zimbabwe and Kenya but also in other African
countries. For lots of whites there, Africa is home. They were born there.
They have been on that continent all their lives. For various reasons,
quite a heap of them have left or are leaving Africa.
However, I
am once more inclined to swim against the tide. I do tend to the assumption
that there is a place for whites in Africa. There is a role for people
with professional expertise in developing countries. That is one reason
why I am inclined to rehash Doug Casey’s phrase in a different tense. Once
I may have a farm or…. in Africa….
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