Tarhankut: The Anomaly Of Crimea
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Tarhankut: The Anomaly Of Crimea
The Unknown Jewel Of The Crimea
When most people think of Crimea, they envision beaches with low mountains rising in the background. Yalta is usually the first city to come to mind, being Crimea’s most famous coastal resort and historical site, and was also known as a summer playground for the soviet politburo and high ranking communist officials. While it is indisputable that this area possesses an almost Mediterranean beauty, it is also true that that southern Crimea is overcrowded and littered in the summer months of May through September, and most of the well-known tourist destinations can be tacky and run down.  Crimea is a tourist destination primarily for Ukrainians and Russians who go to the peninsula often for the sole purpose of showing off their affluence, which has in turn created an uneasy atmosphere. Its lack of hospitality is remnant of the soviet ways, which contrasts greatly with their relaxed Mediterranean neighbors across the Black Sea and beyond.
However, if you find yourself in this neck of the woods and you are not interested in casinos and crowed beaches, there is salvation, and that is Tarhankut. Located on the most western point of the Crimean peninsula, Tarhankut has remained in relative obscurity, and receives no pass through traffic; in fact, the place receives relatively little traffic at all.
 
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Tarhankut is a treeless rolling steppe that reaches to the Black Sea and then drops straight down a hundred meters or so to the sea.

There is a roughed beauty to the land, but people come to Tarhankut to visit the cliffs, caves and sea. It was a pleasant surprise to find that this place had not been littered to the extent of the rest of the peninsula. We found visitors to Tarhankut to be true nature lovers who come back year after year, have respect for its natural beauty, and make all efforts to keep the cliffs and the sea clean.

My wife Natasha and I were traveling by car and just happened to come across several “lagers” located next to the sea cliffs about five or six km. past the village of Olenivka. Lager is the Russian word for ‘expedition camping’ and involves an array of outdoor ‘camping’ activities. I was the first non-Russian or Ukrainian that ever stayed at the lager, and people were curious but respectful.  People at the lager are healthy in body and soul.  Most spend their days doing a variety of activities including scuba diving, wind surfing, and water sking.

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The lager has two boats used for excursions to remote water caves formed in the sandstone sea cliffs. The lager is set upon a cove with an excellent rock beach for swimming, and the water is clear and unpolluted.

The lager provides three clean but very basic meals a day. It is a look back to the soviet euphoria of communism, where people from different levels of society are treated equally; a place where Russians and Ukrainians have dropped their veil of protection of status and have become equal members of the team. This is what the soviet spirit of communism was suppose to be all about, but never was. Now, there are a few ex-soviets who have chosen (key word being chosen) to live as a community.

Social status in Ukraine and Russia today is heavily determined by wealth or at least perceived wealth.Tarhankut is the rare exception as the lagers are from a wide array of backgrounds: from professors, doctors, and CEOs to more simple vocations of plumbers and even pensioners.Since Ukraine has a history of Russian domination, some Russians view, unjustly, Ukrainians as peasants. At the lager, there were many Russians, and none of them set themselves upon a pedestal above the Ukrainians.

It is the only place that I know of in Ukraine where the people don’t care if you are rich or poor, Russian or Ukrainian.

The majority of the lagers are from culturally Russian Ukrainian city of Donetsk – a large mining city in the western part of the country, therefore you will only here Russian spoken. The lager was originally set up by the Polytechnic Institute in Donestk. Marina (Camp Manager) and Valeriy (Camp Director) are both enthusiastic about how the lager would work and have a good idea of what is acceptable and what is not.

There are about 100 lagers altogether, most of which have been returning to the place for several years.  Half of them camp on the steppe above the cliffs and the other half choose the more beautiful, yet challenging, campsite on rocks, caves and beach within the cliff. Marina related to me that the camp is about twenty-two years old.

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Which is amazing that it withstood the time of soviet disintegration of the early 1990s and “perestroika” which was a period of soviet self-destruction during the late 1980s.

If the lager were to be open to the general public, it would quickly turn into a land of disco techs and casinos. Therefore, guests come by reference.  Expect to be charged around $8-$10 per day which includes three meals a day, the use of the boat, beach, wind surfer and water skis. Prices are usually discounted if you stay longer. Scuba diving costs an additional $15 per dive or $10 per dive if you have your equipment.  You can get internationally certified.

The lager is open for two months every year, starting June 19 and finishing August 19.  Most people come for two weeks if they are planning to get certified in scuba diving. Those not planning to scuba dive stay a week or so.  Marina says that once the person arrives, he or she gets contaminated quickly by the spirit of the lagers.  We personally were planning to stay one day but ended up spending six. 

If you speak Russian and are willing to pay the heavy price of an international call to Ukraine, then the lager’s director, Valeriy Reutskiy, can be contacted personally at (0622) 58-60-69 (home) or 8-050-564-49-10 (mobile).  He may also be contacted via e-mail at vr@aquatic.donetsk.ua

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