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In Jamaica, a country where tourism is a major industry, foreign travelers bring much needed income to a depressed national economy. However, the spread of this revenue has become a sore spot for many local small business owners. Annually, many tourist dollars are soaked up by all-inclusive resorts at commercial epicenters such as Montego Bay, Ochos Rios, and Negril.  While these resorts do hire some local employees, many fear that money from tourists flows right back into the hands of foreign investors rather than into the local economies. Communities also suffer because of the likelihood of guests choosing to stay within the limits of their hotel due to fear of crime and violence on the island. In response to these perceived threats to Jamaica’s prosperity, many groups are trying to organize local tourism projects to draw visitors away from larger resort locations. Travel to some of these smaller outlying areas can provide an exciting and inexpensive alternative to an average vacation package as well as a more realistic sense of Jamaican culture. For tourists traveling in Jamaica’s southwestern-most parish of Westmoreland, the popular destination in recent years has become Negril, a laid-back resort town 52 miles west of Montego Bay. A small fishing village only twenty years ago, it is now a Mecca for Spring Break debauchery among American twenty-somethings.  Pristine beaches that once ran, uninterrupted, into the cliffs on the west point of the island have now been broken up by buoyed markers that outline the backyards of a plethora of all-inclusive resorts.  One interested in taking a walk on the sands is now more likely to trip over sunburned tourists and be waylaid by drug dealers than enjoy a peaceful jaunt.  Worst of all, visitors to this completely Americanized concrete jungle are much more inclined to meet hustlers and prostitutes, there only to prey on tourists, than the 3,000 hardworking locals who tend to remain hidden from view. This is the main cause behind many misconceptions about Jamaican people and tends to perpetuate negative stereotypes about their society.  For those island travelers looking for peace and quiet, as well as a more realistic glimpse of a rich and varied culture, a trip eastward on highway A2, along the south coast of the parish, can be a wonderfully educational experience. The first step toward really experiencing Jamaica is to get away from the tourist spots.  There are many ways of traveling throughout the island, but I would recommend using the taxis and minibuses found at hubs referred to as “bus stops”, though they are not for everyone.  These are the transport of choice for most locals and are much less expensive than chartered taxis, although many are unregistered and one should always keep track of their belongings.  In Negril, the best way of reaching one of these “bus stops” is to flag down another taxi in town and have them drop you off. It will probably cost you more for the ride through Negril than it will to travel across the entire parish, however. Once at the aforementioned location, you won’t have any trouble finding a ride.

A ride in a taxi on Jamaican roads can be a frightening experience. The highways themselves are actually very narrow, with intermittent one-lane bridges and a constant influx of goats, cattle, and dogs crossing from one side to the other.  The roads are also the main thoroughfares for pedestrians who walk and ride bicycles on both sides without the luxury of a sidewalk.  To make matters worse, Jamaican drivers, especially the taxi drivers, usually push the top speed on their vehicles in an attempt to make better time, and it is not unusual to find oneself hurtling around a hairpin turn on a one-lane road at over 100 km/hr. This is why Jamaica has one of the highest highway fatality rates in the world. However, while many of the drivers are reckless, their skill is undeniable, and your only available recourse is usually to just roll down the window, forget the danger, and enjoy the ride. One consolation is that the roads out of Negril are some of the best on the island, especially the short ride east through the plains of Westmoreland.
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The plains of Westmoreland.

In no time, you’ll find yourself exiting the vehicle at another depot in Savanna-La-Mar, windblown and shaking from the wild ride, and immediately being shuffled toward another taxi.  Don’t forget to pay the first driver when you get out. Always pay when the ride is over, and make sure you have all your belongings out of the vehicle before you do so.  If you want to continue your journey toward the coast, young men standing on the street will help you find the correct taxi, but if you are so inclined, Savanna-La-Mar can be a fun place to explore as well.  You’ll have to find another driver to take you into the downtown area, but you’ll have no trouble finding one of those either, and it won’t cost you nearly as much as the ride through Negril. Savannah-La-Mar, a concrete jungle in its own right, is nonetheless a polar opposite from Negril. The city itself is built around Great George Street, a wide thoroughfare, just over a mile long, that hails from the days of British presence on the island. It has been the site of several hurricanes over the years, yet still boasts a wide variety of historical sites including a fountain that was once at the center of the town, the original courthouse, and several historic churches.  This road leads to a rustic downtown district lined with shops and filled with the hustle and bustle of everyday traffic. Unlike in the tourist areas of Montego Bay, Ochos Rios and Negril, these shops are not filled with vacationers, and one would actually be hard up to find a pink face or flowered shirt in the entire area. The drug dealers and hustlers of Negril are nowhere to be found, ‘Rastas’ and school children being the most represented demographic.  Though you might think that this would cause you to stand out as the only tourist, it is really more likely that you will be ignored than approached on the streets. Overall, Savannah-La-Mar is a great place to do some shopping for local goods and observe the fast pace of a Jamaican city during an average day. As the biggest community in the area, it is also a good spot to exchange currency at a bank or “cambio”, stop by a grocery store or pharmacy, or pick up any other needed supplies. It would also be a good idea to save your souvenir shopping until you’ve reached Sav and the other communities further down the road.  You’re much more likely to purchase an authentic piece of art in outlying areas than in the tourist towns. It’s not unusual for people to buy a piece of artwork in Negril that is supposed to be an original and see the same piece further down the beach or notice the ‘Made in Taiwan’ sticker too late. While this is an obvious benefit of escaping crowds, Sav isn’t a tourist area for good reason, and those seeking fun and sun would be better served to move on down the coast, possibly returning periodically for the amenities provided by the urban setting.

After a few hours on the hot pavement in town, you’ll probably be ready to head further down A2 toward the beach communities.  A cab or a brisk walk will take you to your point of origin. Another taxi or minibus will gladly whisk you into the eastside of the parish, but remember to plan on arriving before dark. Most taxis finish in late afternoon, and after that you’re looking at an expensive chartered ride because other forms of transport (e.g. hitchhiking) can be very dangerous after the sun is down.  Once again, the ride shouldn’t cost more than $1 US and it can be a very enjoyable trip, depending on the number of people riding with you and the ability of the driver.

After Savanna-La-Mar, your route will take a southward turn along the thin eastern coast of Westmoreland. It is a beautiful drive. As all traces of the urban setting are left behind, rolling green mountains, thick with foliage, end in sheer limestone cliffs, which drop off into the thick mangrove swamps bordering the coast.  The climate is drier than other parts of the island and a forgiving breeze often floats off the sea.  Soon, the beach will become visible as the road wraps around Bluefields Bay. The communities surrounding this area are the outermost of the parish and some of the most comfortable on the island. There is no better area to experience the sleepy seaside culture of the southern coast.
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If you would like to stay in the Bluefields Bay area, accommodations should be your first order of business. Although it’s always best to make reservations in advance, rooms are not all that difficult to come by, and there shouldn’t be much of a problem unless it’s December through March and the peak of tourist season. Hoteliers in the area provide a wide range of options for where to stay, and prices truly run the spectrum.  In the village of Bluefields, as well as in neighboring Belmont, your choices are basically either budget or top-end accommodations.   Sunset Cottages (876-955-8007) is located on the ocean side of A2 and provides simple rooms with a view for only $20-50 US per night. Just across the street at Belmont Garden Cottages (876-955-8138), one can have the pleasure of staying in the ‘yard’ of elderly Mr. Forrester, whose roomy cottages and kindness always make for a pleasant stay at $25 apeice.  A little further down the road, at the Belmont Cabins, one can also find a decent room, at under $25 US and have the added amenity of Gooden’s tropical restaurant and bar. As for more luxurious lodging options, there are several villas in the area run by Braxton and Debbie Moncure (202-232-4010) which provide full service and privacy, but at the expense of thousands of dollars per week.  As far as food and entertainment are concerned, the scene in Bluefields is definitely low key. For barbecue, the jerk stands at the Bluefields Beach Park are a good place for lunch.  Pablo’s Paradise is also a great place to eat and provides a nice drinking atmosphere in the evenings for tourists.  Further down the road, KD’s Keg and Fish Joint provides decent food and a nice beachside locale in which to have a cocktail and play a couple games of pool.  Gooden’s, just across the street, is also a popular local hangout with a limited daily menu. When ordering Jamaican food, there will probably be a lot of fish and chicken served, along with ‘rice and peas’ (what we would call ‘red beans and rice’) and starchy vegetables. Some of the food is spicy and may take time to get used to, but for the most part it is very healthy and cheap at around $5 US per meal.  For a smaller snack, baked pastries called ‘patties’ are found at many locations and cost less than $1 US apiece. Those found at the pastry shop in Belmont are exceptional.  Most locals prepare their own food, so restaurants aren’t all that common, but neighborhood shops, located every 100 ft. or so, offer a wide variety of produce and supplies.  Beer and rum is often served, as well, and such stores can become sites of lively dominoes play after dark.  Having a good time at these establishments, or at any of the bars along the road, is usually very safe at night though one should be wary of drivers because the roadway is poorly lit.As anywhere, women should take extra precautions, possibly traveling in pairs. Sometimes, Jamaican men can come on very strong, leading to uncomfortable situations. For the most part, however, locals are easy-going and quick to make friends with you, but don’t be surprised when you’re asked to buy a few drinks. Also, it’s not unusual if every place seems empty in the evening as many Jamaicans don’t go out until midnight and parties can last until dawn.

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Unless there is some sort of local event or special occasion, however, the nightlife in the area really isn’t anything to write home about.  The main attractions in the community are the beautiful beaches along the coastline. Though some are located on private property, there are several public beaches that are just as nice. The Bluefields Beach Park is one, but it can get a bit crowded on Sundays, and there are many other options.  The best way to find your favorite spot is to do some old fashioned exploring.  Some beaches will have more rocks than others, and some will be marshier, or have more trash. One method of finding a good swimming hole is to go where the fishermen dock their boats.  They usually tie up on sandy beaches, and you might get to see someone bring in the day’s catch. Boat traffic is usually very slow, but it is always a good idea to be careful.

If you are interested in fishing, many locals will be happy to take you out with them, but it will usually cost you around $40 US an hour for their time and gas. If you go, remember to find a guide who you can understand well so that you can ask questions. It’s also wise to go through someone recommended by whoever you are staying with. They may cost a bit more, but you’ll know they’re reliable and others will know where you’re going.  Also, make sure you specify what type of fishing you would like to try.  Techniques vary from pulling traps and using nets along the beach to line fishing several miles out.  Also, lifejackets are rare and the sea is unpredictable, so make sure you are up to the task. Taking a little Dramamine for motion sickness before leaving is always smart. Sunscreen and water are also imperative. 

For those in search of an extreme experience, tuna fishing can be particularly exhilarating. Boats usually head out to sea before dawn, and by sunrise, a brave soul could find themselves several miles out as Jamaica disappears beyond the horizon. Once all traces of land have faded away, you’ll be busy simply trying to stay in the boat and keep your breakfast down as the tiny vessel pitches and rolls in the bright blue water.  While cruising through the waves, the fishermen let out lines tied to nothing more than plastic bottles and wait to hit a school of fish. The anticipation often becomes unbearable, but rest assured, 10 lbs. spiny creatures will soon be flying onto the floor of the boat and flapping like mad until you realize that it’s your job to knock them senseless and deposit them into the cooler. If you happen to go out on a good day, you can look forward to fresh grilled tuna back on the beach.

Other excursions include less formal tours into the foothills of the local agricultural communities. “Ganja” or marijuana is the major cash crop in the eastern half of Westmoreland and many farmers use it to supplement their normal subsistence crops. Some individuals, many of them Rastafarians, choose to grow ganja full time. Most of these fields are hidden far in the hills and are worked by a co-op of local men. It is possible to find a guide to these distant sites, but you should be very cautious. The cultivation of ganja is illegal in Jamaica, and police harassment is common.  Also, Rastas are very suspicious of foreigners, especially men who are curious about their business. You’ll have to earn the trust of the person you go with, and the adventure will cost you in either money or labor. You may also have to hike through some rough terrain to reach the hidden location.  Make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into before tromping off into the ‘bush’ with a stranger and his machete.

A guided tour of historical sites in the area can also be very interesting and somewhat less dangerous. The Bluefields Bay area of Westmoreland has a rich past, having been a haven for Spanish and British boats and even pirate vessels including those of the infamous Henry Morgan.  Later, English and Scottish colonists occupied many of the bay’s environs, cultivating indigo and later sugar cane in large quantities. Sugar production later became the paramount industry on the island, and a plantation system developed under which great numbers of slaves were inhumanely imported from Africa. While the demand for cane sugar later ebbed, a lasting impression has remained in the land, and its people. Sugar cane is still grown in the area in small quantities, and several local plantation houses are still standing. A trip to any of these locations usually provides a lovely ride, as well as a greater sense of understanding and compassion for Jamaicans.

Currently, the political climate in Bluefields Bay and its surrounding communities is rather serene. Since the US supported ganja eradication of 1986, and aside from occasional drug busts and isolated acts of violence, recent history in the region has been somewhat uneventful.  Belmont and Bluefields are actually somewhat conservative and haven’t yet developed the more commercial lifestyles prevalent in the popular metropolitan areas.  Due to the old-fashioned and laid-back attitude typical of the of locals, time spent there can be profoundly relaxing and days seem to fly by as one slowly falls in step with the pace of small-town life. The attitude can be summed up in the connotation of a favorite phrase of many Jamaicans who promise to “soon come” and then don’t return soon at all. Remember, if you’re impatient you’ll drive yourself crazy, but once you can learn to relax, you’ll have the time of your life. 

Unfortunately, the local lifestyle may be endangered as looming plans for the future development of all-inclusive resorts in the district threaten entrepreneurs and homeowners in close proximity. In response to possible changes in the commercial sector, many of the 7,000 residents of the local Bluefields Bay communities have been pulling together to organize community tourism projects to help small-business owners and bring more money into the community.  This type of community development is the main emphasis of the Bluefields People’s Community Association (876-955-8792) formed in the late 1980’s by Terry Williams, and continued today by Keith Wederburn and Wolde Kristos (876-421-7449).  In addition to offering computer training and literacy classes, the BPCA has recently developed a website, http://www.bluefieldsjamaica.org.jm/bpca/cybercentre.html, which not only gives information about the community, but also provides links for local attractions and accommodations.  It makes a great source for researching your vacation.

With the help of these and other local resources, you should be able to plan a fun and relaxing vacation, and though you surely won’t want to leave, you’ll be confident that you’ve had a unique experience when you do. When finally ready to vacate the area, several options exist.  You could always trace your steps and head back west to Negril, though after your experience on other parts of the island, that might not seem so appealing.  Further to the east lie the Black River, YS Falls, Treasure Beach, and even Kingston. Minibuses and taxis are available on the southeast part of the island, but the journey would be a grueling one and a chartered ride much more comfortable. To the north lies the Cockpit Country of Trelawney and the road to Montego Bay, both journeys where a chartered taxi would probably be necessary though, as always, it will be cheaper than in Negril.

Whether going home or on to some new adventure, as you speed away from Jamaica’s beautiful southwest coast, leaving Bluefields Bay and its surrounding communities behind, you’re sure to reflect on the time you’ve stayed.  In all likelihood, your stay will have been comfortable.  You’ll have had the opportunity to try exotic new foods and probably will have consumed too much local rum on more than one occasion.  You’ll smile as you look back on the various adventures you’ve had fishing, visiting historical sites, or wandering through fields of ganja. Also, after spending everyday on the beach and eating only fish and produce, you’ll look and feel wonderful.  Moreover, you’ll have made many new friends and can say that you’ve experienced real Jamaican culture. Best of all, you can do all of this while still having some money in your pocket when the trip is over, confident that what you did spend while in Jamaica went right where it belongs, to the Jamaicans. 
 

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