Colombia - Up In The Mountains Above Cali
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Colombia
Up In The Mountains Above Cali
by Jacky Akelsberg
Known for its coffee and beautiful women, Colombia is a country with access to both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, an innumerable amount of fauna and flora, and incredible peaceful landscapes. On the southwest of Colombia we find Cali, one of its major cities.

Cali is a party city, every night you will find a place to go clubbing with the most beautiful women you have ever seen all dancing to salsa. Now, don’t get me wrong I love partying as much as the next guy but you get to a point where you want to put all the noise behind you and just relax.

Fortunately, if you are already in Cali you won’t have to look far for such a place.

After a twenty minute drive north of the city you will reach the beginning of the road to Dapa, a mountain town on the western mountain ridge of Colombia; it is one of the few places up in the mountains that you can visit worry free of encountering any sort of military trouble. Before it was dangerous to go up to Dapa, but it hasn’t been for over 3 years. On this trip I was heading up there with my family and my dog to my house which is around twenty to thirty minutes up the hill. On the foot of the mountain a stream that comes down from the mountain and ends up in a natural pool where all the locals bathe every Sunday while eating Arepas and Chorizos.

The weather was great, it was incredibly sunny yet a cold breeze came down from the mountain and as we got higher and higher it got cooler and cooler.

Before we actually got to the entrance of Dapa, which is marked by the town church, we made a couple of stops on the way up. There are little kiosks on the way up selling a wide a variety of the local food and entertainment. Orejas, Obleas, Leche de Cabra, Bofe, are just a few of the foods you can stop and snack on before you make it to the amazing restaurants at the top of the mountain.

There is a motocross track where many of the people from Cali ride and in virtually every little hill of the mountain you will find at least thirty families flying kites - you look up to the skies and it’s kite heaven! However, the kite season goes down during the first months of the year when the windy season ends. The church that marks the beginning of the town is also the meeting point for “cabalgatas”; next to it are a couple of “tienditas” (Variety Shops), and more food stops. A “cabalgata” is when a bunch of people get together in horses and follow a certain trail or path. “Cabalgatas” are organized all year round in Cali by different farm owners; however the great ones are in the months of July thru August. Here the town unites in what turns out to be a gathering of more than 150 people riding on more than 100 horses all drinking “Aguardiente” (Licorish Alcohol) listening to “rancheras” (typical music) and those who aren’t riding are walking along or driving along the ride.
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There is one “cabalgata” every Saturday, each one going through a different path than the one before. It usually takes around 5 hours for the whole trip, but there have been some that last over eight hours. The “cabalgatas” are one of the attractions that I enjoy the most about Dapa since you go places unavailable to cars and pollution with beautiful scenery all around.

Once you are in the town you see amazing restaurants that families from Cali visit on Sundays, surrounded by the most peaceful, greenery and a beautiful town. The people are amazing, and as you go up it just gets more spectacular. After the paved road ends, around 15 minutes after you’ve passed the church, you reach the entrance to my house. If we would’ve kept on going up the mountain we would’ve run into a couple of more farms and then fields and fields of coffee, followed by miles and miles of forest. In order to get to my actual house we drive down into the mountain through a pine forest that seems endless, until it finally clears into a view of the whole city bounded by mountains, as if the mountains were the frame of a city that once was so loud and lighted but from this distance seems calm and soothing; it’s astonishing. Near my house you can find cabins for tourists with hot tubs (which in this cold weather make for a perfect match) and steam baths.

Amongst the many things that the locals do, I can include soccer games, riding “columpio de vuelo”, and sliding down the side of the mountain in cardboard cutouts. Out of the edges of the mountains you also see many hand gliders and canopy riders that fill up the skies with colors with their immense kites and multicolored canopies.

Within the gap between houses, there are walking trails that go deep into the heart of the mountains. The trails lead to creeks, rivers, mountain tops and small lagoons where you can bathe, if you can handle the cold; if you can they are very invigorating. Along the trails you can play Tarzan and swing on long and strong “bejucos” (vines) that have been around for as long as I can remember. If you get hungry, you can feast on a banquet of diverse berries and edible plants and roots, which a guide can show you.

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Once you reach the town of Dapa, you may ask anywhere for directions as people in the town are extremely friendly. At night many of the people go back down to Cali, but a place to relax up in the mountains is still found in many of the restaurants which have excellent views and are serene at night: an excellent place to have a couple of beers.

It is such relaxing time in Dapa that you’ll let go of all your problems and the rest of the world. The only problem is that time flies in Dapa, a week seems like 3 days. Whether you’re riding horses through rivers and mountain paths that lead to endless coffee fields or hiking under a cool breeze to natural pools, you will never run out of things to do.

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