Re-Entering Panama: Returning From A Busy Country ~ By Zvia Leibler-Danon
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Re-Entering Panama 
Returning From A Busy Country ~ By Zvia Leibler-Danon
After a long vacation in a very busy country, after standing in several lines in airports, waiting to be checked and body searched, lifting up my suitcases about a thousand times almost breaking my back each time…I finally re-entered the Republic of Panama where life became easy again almost instantly. First of all the immigration line might have been a bit slow but not long –that’s for sure. Then the suitcase issue had to be dealt with- however this time I had several men just waiting to help me get my suitcases off the baggage claim rail and later into my car for just a few bucks--back to the good life, ha?

Going back to the school where I teach and seeing all the lovely posters our students prepared, I realized that on August 15 Panama City celebrates its 484th anniversary. The historical 16th century city was founded in 1519 by Spanish conquistador Pedro Arias de Avila and was the first settlement of the Pacific coast of the Americas. Through this port American gold was transported to the Old World, until it became a “hot spot” for pirates to sack Spanish wealth. In 1671, the city was burned to the ground, leaving only the ruins seen today—an interesting place to visit. 

Panama City celebrated its anniversary with folklore dances, shows and Panamanian food stands at the ruins of Old Panama. Furthermore, Panamanians and tourists were invited on August 16 to the largest pot of Sancocho-Panamanian soup - which took place at the Atlapa Convention Center. The 2,003 gallons of soup prepared reached the Guinness records. Each plate was sold for $0.25 and the money was donated to Panama City’s Childrens Hospital.

Also on August 15th was the celebration of the first ship crossing the Canal in 1914. And so off we went—students and teachers to the Miraflores Locks-to learn more about how the Canal operates, to watch the ships make their way over the Isthmus from one ocean to another and to proceed with the photo exhibit and Canal models our students are preparing. So many different schools and tourists came that day to appreciate the wonders of this extraordinary Canal which was built by more than 200,000 people from all over the world in a period of more than 10 extremely tough years.

The pollera is a traditional symbol of rural Panama. Seventy years ago almost all women in the countryside wore the pollera as their daily dress.
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The Panama Canal Museum offers a short Canal history movie in Spanish and English and also has a Canal model which clarifies its operation. There are V.I.P. tours and it is also possible to cruise the Panama Canal. Even though I had visited the Canal several times before, each time it’s amazing to see this human achievement which has become a part of the Panamanian people and reflects its cultural diversity. 

Since it was Panama City’s celebration this week I decided to stay close to Panama City this long weekend. Actually even by driving just 30 minutes away from the City you can most definitely feel as if you are in a few different places or shall I say different worlds? 

One place that makes me feel that way without having to drive miles is the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, just a 30-40 minute drive from home. The luxurious eco–resort developed in conjunction with the Smithsonian Institute of Tropical Research,  not only offers many luxuries of a five star hotel, but also combines eco-tourism excursions for their guests, tourists and for people like me who just want to have some time off without having to plan an overnight.
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A shot from within Summit Garden Zoo. The zoo is located on the road to Gamboa; both the Zoo and Gamboa are located within the former-U.S. Canal Zone.
Being able to hop into a small water boat right near the hotel and enjoy the scenery of another island in the Panama Canal waterway complex, feel the fresh breeze on my face as the boat is zooming ahead, and then get to see the White Faced monkeys in the Isla de Monos- The Island of Monkeys- an island dedicated to scientific monkey research- just makes my day worth wile. It makes me feel so close to the wonders of nature and in fact I am just 30 minutes away from the City, from my job, from shops, from traffic--from the busy life.

Here I was, spending some good quality time with a whole family of  White Faced monkeys dangling from a few trees, feeding them with bread which the Capitan provided and observing how they jump back and forth into the boat to get some more. On my way back I also got to see a few crocodiles. Don’t worry! They were only on the edges of the Gatun Lake-the guides are experts. Kayaking, fishing and wild life observation tours are also available for the water sports fans among us.

On the way to Gamboa, you can stop at the Summit Gardens - a tropical zoo set in an eighty years old botanical garden. The zoo contains unique birds and animals of Panama’s rainforests and jungles.

I decided I must try the aerial tram tour and discover the secrets of the upper rainforest canopy. The aerial tram is located in 100 hectares of rain forest licensed to Gamboa Rainforest Resort. At first I wasn’t sure if I would like the height, but once I got used to it, I was constantly searching for different birds, monkeys and other animals. What I mostly saw were colorful and beautiful birds-among them the Toucans and the impressive plant diversity- the food source for all kinds of indigenous animals. The aerial tram travels approximately 1.2 kilometers through the canopy of the forest for about an hour, until it reaches the lookout. The lookout offers a view of the surrounding tropical rain forest, the Chagres River and the Panama Canal.

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This tour also included nature exhibitions of orchids, snakes, beautiful butterflies - up to 15 butterfly species, aquarium of water fish from the tropical areas of America, Africa and Asia. There is also a sample of an Embera meeting house with a guide explaining some aspects of their culture—but it’s nothing like going to see for yourself the Embera villages on Rio Chagres - a sure adventure for the whole family and a true experience which I have written about in a previous article.  (http://www.escapeartist.com/efam/46/contadora_Embera.html)

Next on my agenda was to have fun in the amazing Amador Causeway–the best place to walk, jog and ride a bike in Panama City. Over the last years the Causeway has developed so much and has become one of Panama’s hot spots of entertainment and nightlife. On a Sunday morning visitors can rent individual bikes or a big fun family bike. There are also many walkers, joggers and roller bladers who come to enjoy the scenery, the fresh sea air and the spectacular view of Panama City’s skyline and the Panama Canal. 

The Causeway hosts a yacht club, the Smithsonian Institute of Tropical Research aquarium, a new cruise port-allowing cruise ships to stop and let people from all over the world shop in a small duty-free store which was created there and eat in some of the most delicious restaurants in Panama. The Causeway is a place where New Years Eve parties are held and where Miss Universe 2003 events took place in the new Figali Convention Center.The one-mile causeway was created by connecting four small islands and is most definitely one of Panama’s must attractions.
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I decided I would eat lunch in a restaurant called The Buccaneers on the Flamenco Island- a nice environment, breezy, waiters dressed up as buccaneers, lovely view of the open sea and the yachts. I decided to have Panama’s well-known appetizer-Ceviche and then a whole fish—the famous Corvina. It’s amazing how so many different restaurants prepare the Corvina in such special and delicious ways. As a woman dinning alone I felt very comfortable, and was treated with a lot of respect. I spent a lot of time there enjoying my delicious Corvina, observing the scenery and reading my Yoga magazine. I even went out of my way to ask the chef for his Corvina recipe, but that I guess will have to remain a secret for now.

In back of these lovely restaurants which are also very active during the night, especially on the weekends, there are a few shops selling cloths, jewelry, candles, souvenirs and of course one of my favorite desert places – Crêpes and Waffles - a great place for delicious crêpes, ice-creams, and milkshakes. It was tempting, but I was pretty full after such a big lunch. What’s fun about the Causeway is that it could be a day or evening outing for the whole family, for romantic couples who feel like dinning outside-or just walking together when it cools down-(the best hours are 17.00- and on), or for a group of friends who just feel like having a cold beer outside-- appreciating this amazing view of the skyscrapers of Panama City.

Close to the Amador Causeway I always stop at the Balboa Artisan’s Market, located in the former American Canal Zone. What I appreciate the most is the Panamanian native handicrafts, made by Panama’s seven living Indian tribes. The most famous handicraft is called the Mola- beautiful embroidery made by the women of the Kuna Indian tribe of the San Blas Islands. Other arts and crafts include the hand-woven baskets of palm leaves made by the Embera Indians. Tagua carvings, also known as “vegetable ivory” (small wildlife figures carved from small tagua nuts) can also be found in the market. I always find extraordinary gifts and decorative items for my apartment there.

A shot of the Amador Causeway. Panamanians like to run and walk or ride bike on the causeway on Saturdays and Sundays. The causeway was originally built to keep the Bay of Panama from silting up the entrance of the canal. Today there are restaurants and shops on the causeway as well as the islands the causeway connects to the mainland. This is also where the 2003 Miss Universe contest was held.
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A 5 minute drive from Balboa Artisan’s market, took me to Los Pueblitos (also called Mi Pueblito) – three miniature villages representing Panama’s three cultures – the West Indian and the native, the Spanish and the San Blas Indians. Almost every week folklore dances performances are held in Mi Pueblito (usually around 18.00). Market lovers, on the way you can find another smaller market of the Kuna Indians of the San Blas Islands. 
Remember, you can always try to bargain!

HAVE FUN
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Zvia Leibler-Danon grew up in Israel and has lived in Panama for the last 5 years. She is a teacher at a local school in Panama City and has recently graduated from Florida State University-Panama where she majored in International Affairs. Her interests include: tropical islands, alternative medicine, local art and of course spas and yoga retreats up on the mountains of Panama. Zvia offers market research reports related to Panama. If you wish to contact her write: zldarticles@yahoo.com

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