A
Breathtaking Brazilian Inland Alternative
Carnival In Brazil
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By Ashley Riley Lopes
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While
trips to Brazil usually conjure ideas of sunny beaches, tan, half-naked
Amazonian women and samba, last Carnaval season, I decided to act like
a local and head to one of the most popular inland destinations - Serra
da Canastra.
These days,
many Brazilians are choosing to avoid the madness on the beach and head
for other forms of paradise inland. Nestled in the hills of Minas Gerias,
Serra da Canastra offers visitors an abundance of natural wonders. I ventured
there this past Carnival, along with my husband (a native Brazilian and
avid rock climber and motorbiker) and some of his college buddies. While
some visitors are enticed by the area’s vast motorbike trails and large
canyon walls perfect for climbing, I was lured there by tales of amazing
waterfall-created lagoons. Though I had originally hoped to spend Carnival
on the famous beaches of Florianopolis, I was persuaded to forgo the traditional
Carnival experience for promises of a hidden paradise.
Luckily one
of our companions had a truck with 4-wheel drive, so we made the 6-hour
journey from our apartment in Sao Carlos, Sao Paulo with ease. Our driver
had visited Serra da Canastra over five times and had arranged for us to
camp near Pousada Mata do Engenho, a lodge in the area. The lodge provided
three large meals a day and the use of their showers and bathrooms for
a mere 20 reais (around $7). When we reached the lodge we were greeted
with hugs, glasses of pinga (sugarcane liquor) and a traditional Minas
Geriasian meal. Eager to see our first waterfall, we set up camp by a nearby
stream and set out.
We decided
to head for Maria Augusta, a pristine waterfall, towering over 100 ft.
It flowed down and created a large pool-like lagoon surrounded by a small
sandy-beach. I felt as though I had stepped into a hidden paradise. We
all dove in; enjoy the refreshing, pure water. We were able to swim under
the waterfall and enter a small cavern behind-the roar of the water was
exhilarating. We spent all afternoon there.
In the evening
we ventured back to the lodge to enjoy another Minas Geriasian meal and
a couple beers. Other visitors crowded there to sing Carnival songs,
drink pinga and recount stories of the waterfalls they had visited that
day. We built a bon-fire and slept well.
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| The explorer
Sir Richard Burton traveled to the interior of Minas Gerais province in
1867. He also traveled down the São Francisco River; his 1300 mile
journey down the São Francisco River is described in Burton's book
The
Highlands of Brazil. |
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Our second
day in Serra da Canastra, we decided to drive to Paraiso Selvagem, another
waterfall in the area. After driving for almost an hour through rocky roads,
we parked and began the 2 km hike to the waterfall. The hike was through
fairly dense jungle and across a wide stream (Hiking shoes or balance recommended).
After about 20 minutes, Paraiso Selvagem came into view. Hidden by walls
of rock, the waterfall pooled over into a foliage-surrounded lagoon. The
brave could climb the rock walls and jump into the deep pool, while the
less-brave could swim to the pool’s center and enjoy the view from a large
rock there. Since the pool was hidden from the sun by large walls, it turned
cold quickly and us females in Brazilian bikinis chose to leave after an
hour or so. We hiked back and reached our trucks, just before the rain
began to fall. We spent the evening in the same manner as the night before.
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| Gold mining
was an important activity in Minas Gerais province in the 19th century.
The province has always been famous for its open grasslands and waterfalls. |
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The
next morning, my husband and I and another couple decided to borrow horses
from our lodge and head across the countryside to Vale do Ceu. We obtained
three horses and one mulinha (mule), and set out. As we rode higher
and higher into the landscape, we passed through beautiful green hills
and blue streams. When we reached Vale do Ceu, we tethered our horses,
stripped down to our bathing suits, and began the climb into the cavernous
waterfall. While our companions decided not to descend farther, my husband
and I jumped into the refreshing water and let it carry us into its lagoon.
The water pounded on our bodies like a massage and rehydrated us after
the long ride. When satisfied, we climbed back up the waterfall, dressed
and collected our horses. Knowing we were returning home, our horses’ energy
was renewed, and we galloped across the breathtaking landscape.
After our midday
meal, my husband and I collected our horses and decided to return to the
first waterfall, Maria Augusta that had so captured our interest the first
day. Although a little more crowded than desirable, we enjoyed the beach
and water, warmed by the sun. Other visitors were busy gearing up to repel
the waterfall. We decided to ride to the waterfall’s summit, in order to
capture a different view. At the summit, the waterfall took on a totally
different ambiance; we bathed in its many pools and then returned with
our horses to the lodge. We spent that night the same as the last, thoroughly
enjoying our campfire and creek bed camping spot.
Already the
Tuesday of Carnival, we planned to make this day an important one. We still
had to visit Quilombo, an amazing three-tiered waterfall about 7km from
our campsite. While some of our companions decided to hike, we opted for
a bumpy ride through the hills in our 4X4 truck. We reached the base of
the waterfall after about a 45-minute drive. Parking the truck under a
tree, we began our trek up the base to the first lagoon. It was beautiful!
The waterfall cascaded down, creating a large pool. We swam out to large
rocks in the center of the lagoon and sunned our selves. Others climbed
the surrounding cliffs and jumped into the refreshing waters. I borrowed
an intertube from a local Indian and paddled my way around from side to
side. |
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Though very
content here, we decided to venture further and discover the waterfalls
second tier. We climbed a steep path, aided by a local guide. The second
tier was beautiful as well- the waterfall fell down creating a pool surrounded
by stair casing rocks. We rested there, enjoying the view.
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| Tired,
but determined, we ventured to the summit. The heat poured down on our
bodies and we looked forward to relaxing in the pools of the summit-we
were not disappointed. From the summit, we received an entirely new view.
It was enormous. The waterfall created several large pools here, and we
each picked one for ourselves, enjoying the sun now in the cool water.
The current was stronger here, too, so the pools flowed into each other,
creating smaller waterfalls. I rested against the current, feeling the
water massage my tired body. It was beautiful, and we stayed there for
several hours.
That night
we enjoyed our last meal at Pousada Mata do Engenho, and said our goodbyes
to the other guests and some of our companions. Those who still remained
enjoyed one last bonfire, drinking pinga and recounting the beauty of the
past couple days.
We left the
next morning to return to Sao Paulo state. Although Carnival was over,
and I felt as though I had missed some of the traditional festivities,
my adventure in Serra da Canastra seemed to transcend samba, beaches, and
naked chicks. I had experienced Carnival on the sandy beaches of Maria
Augusta, heard the music in the waters of Quilombo, and been awed by the
naked beauty of Serra da Canastra. |
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