| The Turkish
Island Of Bozcaada |
| A Turkish
Island In The Mediterranean |
| By Jason Jones |
| Bozcaada is
a small Turkish island located about 12 miles (19 km) off the western coast
of Turkey just south of the Dardanelles (a narrow strait in northwestern
Turkey connecting the Aegean Sea with the Marmora Sea). The island’s
ancient name was Tenedos, and its strategic location in the Aegean Sea
at the entrance of the Dardanelles Straits was ideal to guard the city
of Troy just to the north.
When approaching
Bozcaada’s eastern coast on the ferry from the mainland, the island’s terrain
is unimpressive and barren. Offsetting this bleakness is the characteristic
Greek whitewashed town of Bozcaada with its narrow streets and its impressive
fortress. The outdoor harbor area is a pleasant place for tea, next to
sailboats, and further out, great ocean going ships in queue to pass to
Istanbul. |
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| There is a
wide availability of hotel accommodation for all price ranges. The
town has a bank, an ATM, a few markets, and an internet café (expect
slow connections and short working hours).
Set upon the
hill to the north of the town is the very well preserved fortress, which
was originally built in the time of the Venetians and served great importance
during the era of the Ottoman Conqueror Sultan Mehmet. It was later
torn down in 1807 and rebuilt 1.5 kilometers inland in 1842. A number
of historic sea battles were waged here as the island’s ownership passed
back and forth between the Greeks and the Turks.
The island
makes an ideal place to set up base for day trips to the archeological
sites of Troy and Assos. The ferry to and from Bozcaada and the
mainland takes about a half an hour, runs four times a day, and costs USD
2. From there it is about an hour to either Troy or Assos by modern
air-conditioned busses which meet the ferry upon arrival and departure.
The islanders
retain a hospitable and laid back attitude towards tourists. |
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| First, I think
this can be attributed to the fact that the tourists are mainly Turks themselves,
who treat the locals with respect and adhere to local customs.
The 1999 release
of the Turkish film Eylul Firtinasi (After the Fall) was filmed on the
island of Bozcaada and highlighted the island’s beauty.
The movie quickly
created a mystique surrounding the island and Bozcaada has since then been
gaining popularity as tourist destination for the Turks, many of which
make the trip by motorcycle from Istanbul. Conversely, the island
has remained in relative obscurity to the international traveler.
Second, many locals are of Greek ancestry, which adds a more liberal mind
set.
Finally,
the summer residences of affluent Istanbulers tend to live modest and relaxed
lives on the island. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Bozcaada is
not filled with casinos or high-rise hotels, rather the island is dotted
with small comminutes of whitewashed, one- and sometimes two-story houses,
many without heating and intended for summer use only. The island’s
physical beauty is found on its southern beaches with crystal clear water,
its rocky northern coast, and its vineyards in the interior.
If you want
to take a tour of the island, minibus are found at the town square (all
minibuses take the same route), and it take only twenty minutes or
so to get around the entire island. As you go inland, the dusty brown
color turns green and a consistent, yet subtle, northern wind keeps the
island cooler than others in the Aegean Sea. The wind picks up as you head
to the western extremities of the island where sixteen windmills generate
not only Bozcaada’s energy needs but also exports to mainland Turkey.
The island’s
two vineyards are famous for their economically priced wines.
It’s a tradition all around the island to offer visitors some grapes.
Bozcaada was once very famous for viniculture; however in recent years
the vineyards have fallen upon hard time. Nonetheless there are still
folks that take pride in the grapes of Bozcaada and are struggling to keep
the tradition alive. |
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| The three
beaches of Ayazma, Poyraz and Igdelik, strung across the south side of
the island, attract most of the tourists. We found that camping
on the beach was the best way to enjoy the secluded cove, and was cost
effective. Furthermore, the locals assured us that camping was safe
and free of thieves. There is a paid campground as well.
In true
Mediterranean style, the locals wake late and lounge around until noon,
then work in the afternoon, and have dinner around eleven. This caught
us by surprise, as we were on the beach and needed to catch the noon ferry
to the mainland. The first buss of the day left the beach at 11:30;
luckily it takes less than twenty minutes to drive around the whole island. |
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