| Life In
The Dominican Republic |
| Quite A
Change After The UK! Part 2 |
| By Malcolm Couch |
| Almost
one in every 10 Dominicans now lives in the USA. Although the
country has a Latin heritage, the Dominican Republic, in terms of its economy,
developing culture and aspirations, very definitely points to the States.
For people
with reasonable incomes (and I guess that most expatriates must come
into this category), this US focus has a number of advantages. The
first of these is that supermarkets are very good indeed. The number
of lines carried is less than in Europe or the USA, but one of the
newer branches of SuperNacional, or the large Carrefour on the Western
edge of Santo Domingo is a joy to shop in. They are big, clean and
full of high-quality goods. |
|
|
|
|
|
| For my
family, coming from Europe, it has been a voyage of discovery exploring
all of the new fruits and vegetables available in the Caribbean. Two drinks
became our favourites. The first is fresh coconut juice, or ‘agua de coco’,
and the second is ‘chinola’, a drink made from fresh passion fruit juice
with some water and sugar. Both of them are healthy, taste fantastic
and are perfect for quenching your thirst.
Staying on
food briefly, I would mention that the supermarkets are not particularly
cheap. We feel that (and this surprised us) the regular family grocery
shopping trip costs about the same in Santo Domingo as in the UK.
You can find
less expensive places to buy fruit and vegetables. One brilliant place
is the ‘feria ganadores’, a large open market on the city coastal
road. My wife, in particular, has become well known at the market, and
has made friends with several of the traders. The children also love
having a horse ride on one of the ponies behind the market.
General shopping
in the Dominican Republic (especially Santo Domingo) is also
good, and you can find most of the things that you can in Europe or the
States. |
|
|
| As yet, the
country has not really cottoned on to large malls with many stores, and
a shopping trip usually involves the car and visits to various ‘plazas’.
Once you know where things are, that isn’t too much of a problem.
You will be
surprised when you first start to explore the country that almost all shops
have an armed guard, usually sitting outside on a chair with a pump-action
shotgun. Whether any of these dreamy guys actually know what to do with
the weapons is anybody’s guess, because they never have to. For some reason,
the guards are just part of the culture in the Dominican Republic.
Do not be intimidated, or interpret their presence as meaning that the
country is violent – it isn’t.
The cinemas
are good and carry the latest releases just after the USA. We also
find the video rental stores to be excellent, with a large selection of
brand new movies. |
|
|
Offshore Resources Gallery
|
|
|
| Santo Domingo
has a cultural quarter, and music concerts (classical and modern), opera,
ballet and plays are regularly put on.
In my opinion
‘comida criolla’, or local food, in the Dominican Republic is really
good, and can be bought cheaply in many small restaurants, or made at home.
If you fancy international cuisine, then feel free to try the many restaurants
in Santo Domingo and elsewhere. The Chinese and Italian restaurants
are pretty good, but I have often been disappointed in other places – with
the food being expensive and prepared with heavy sauces and far too much
salt. As in many cities, new places spring up all the time, so it
is worth talking regularly with friends and colleagues to find out where
everyone thinks is the place to be.
If you like
dancing and drinking, then you will make many friends in the Dominican
Republic. Dancing is a way of life, and is exuberant and exciting.
Clubs cater for all tastes, from the Caribbean merengue through to European
and US house and garage. All you need to do is a little research
and you will find something to suit you. Dominican rum and beer (Presidente)
are very good, but are drunk maybe a little to excess. |
|
|
| Take care,
as you would anywhere, that you don’t overdo things until you know your
way around.
Most Dominican
doctors have either trained, or at least worked for a period, in the
USA. We have found healthcare to be good, and available rapidly when
you need it. All medicines are available in the country – in actual
fact, if you know what you need, you can buy most pharmaceuticals without
a doctor’s prescription.
Your ‘tourist
card’, which costs $10 at the airport, will give you a 90-day temporary
residence in the country. If you intend to stay for longer, you can apply,
in the first instance, for a one-year residency permit. The legal system
in the Dominican Republic is based on Roman law principles, which means
that it is a bureaucratic, fragmented and slow moving. |
|
|
Offshore
Resources Gallery
|
| I would not
advise you to try to obtain residency without hiring a local lawyer. You
will need to put aside several hours for your visits to the various
departments of government, but there is nothing overly difficult in
the process.
Deciding where
to live in the Dominican Republic (and I focus on Santo Domingo here)
depends on a number of factors. The main decision is between a house and
an apartment. A house gives you more freedom, usually a garden
and possibly a pool. Most houses have high perimeter walls and electric
gates. In general, houses are better for families – particularly
when the kids are older. But…with a house, you are responsible for
the maintenance of everything. As explained in the first part of this article,
maintenance and service generally can cause you real headaches.
With small
children, and with me travelling a lot in the region with my job, we decided
to take an apartment. The staff of the building deals with the maintenance,
and there is a 24-hour presence in the car park and on reception in case
of any sort of problem. This means that my wife – even though she
has a strong frontier spirit – has much more back up when I am away.
In Santo
Domingo there is currently an over-supply of both apartments and houses.
Rents are quoted in US dollars, and are expensive (i.e. over $3,500
per month) for good properties in the best areas. With some searching
around, and good bargaining skills, you can find something for any budget.
Properties are advertised in the papers and by real estate agents – use
whichever you feel most comfortable with. One common feature of leases
is that the landlord will try to tie you in for a long period. Be careful,
therefore, that you have someone on hand who can translate legal Spanish
for you, and try your hardest to have a tenant’s one month’s notice clause
put in the contract. As the Dominican Peso has devalued very significantly
in the last 18 months, you could also try to get a Peso-denominated rent
if your income is paid from a foreign base – but I would not be hopeful
that you would succeed!
If you are
a sporting type, the Dominican Republic is a paradise. For day-to-day
fitness there are many brand new gyms with modern equipment. The
country has fantastic golf courses, some of the best diving in the world,
good climbing and walking, sailing, wind-surfing, rafting and horse riding.
The national sport is baseball, with basketball following in second place.
Attending a match is a wild affair.
As Santo
Domingo gets hot and dusty, many people try to get out of the city at weekends.
The beaches of the Dominican Republic match any in the world in terms of
quality and beauty. We have fallen in love with a small resort area
called Bayahibe, where the beaches are sandy and level, and the sea is
gentle – perfect for small children. Our two can spend all day making
sand castles, whilst we sample a cocktail from the beach bar. Heaven!
Although Dominican
people love children, there is little provision for them in terms of
things to do in Santo Domingo. Apart from a rather rickety funfair called
Arcadis, and some pay to play areas, there isn’t much that is suitable.
Santo Domingo has a zoo, which can be fun if the day is not too
hot, and beautiful botanical gardens, but the real focus is with family
and friends.
We realised
quickly that a good network of friends and acquaintances is the key to
enjoying your time as an expatriate. Even though you would want to get
involved with local people, your temporary status often means that you
congregate with other expatriates. As everyone is in the ‘same boat’, I
would advise you to be outgoing and approach people for a conversation
– especially when you hear them speaking your language. Find out
where expatriate social groups (such as the International Women’s Committee
and the Hash Harriers) meet and go along.
In general,
the Dominican Republic does not have public spaces where people go
for a stroll or to meet people. Your social life will be focused
on home, the homes of your friends and on ‘events’. If you do not
build up a network of friends, the experience as an expatriate is that
much less enjoyable.
Next time
– more on life in the city. |
|
Article
Index ~ Dominican
Republic Index ~ |