Baby Blue And La Paz
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Baby Blue And La Paz
Making It Through In Bolivia
By Mark McMahon
When I went to the Feria del Autos, the 'Auto Market', I was still very uncertain as to what I was going to do with respect to my mission to drive to Tierra Del Fuego. The loss of Baby Blue had taken its toll on me emotionally, along with some personal matters I had been dealing with. I could quit and go home. I could continue by public transport. Or I could purchase another vehicle and carry on.

Going home certainly had its appeal. Continuing by bus had very little appeal. The hassle with luggage, the physical discomfort, the security risks, the irregularity and the inflexibility... I could go on and on.

It was not a realistic option for me. Purchasing another vehicle seemed quite daunting as well. That is, until I met Jorge at the Auto Market.

The Auto Market is held twice a week in El Alto, 'The Heights', a suburb above La Paz. Mostly private owners and a few dealers bring their cars to this flea market or swap meet for car buyers. In shopping around I found that Baby Blue was actually much more valuable here than in the states. By almost three times!

In Tucson I paid about $2000 for Baby Blue, a 1985 Toyota four-wheel-drive pick-up. She would have easily fetched 5-6K here in Bolivia or Peru. I didn't think I wanted to spend that much on a replacement. I considered a few small Japanese sedans; they were not very exciting, but they were cheaper and they would have gotten me down the highway.

Then I came across a couple of Toyota Land Cruisers, all vintage around 1980 and in the neighborhood of three thousand dollars. That's when I started to get excited about driving again.

From my preliminary research prior to purchasing Baby Blue, the consensus for the best vehicle for my trip was an early model Toyota pick-up or a Toyota Land Cruiser. A Land Cruiser is an indestructible cross between a Land Rover, a Jeep and a tank! Originally, I had been more familiar and comfortable with small pick-ups. Hence, the purchase of Baby Blue from the start.

The excitement about a Land Cruiser was building but I was still mentally bogged down by legal, insurance, and resale issues. Would title and plates from Bolivia allow easy passage to other countries? Would there be duties or taxes leaving or entering other countries? Jorge had all the answers.

Jorge was selling the nicest of the Land Cruisers I had seen, at a very competitive price.

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After only a few minutes of inspection and chatting we hopped in the Land Cruiser and headed into La Paz to the small used car dealership, EcoMotors, owned by Jorge and his brother. He answered all of my questions and assured me that everything I wanted to do was doable. He said I could get all of the paperwork done plus some modifications to the vehicle AND be on the road the next day! You know what they say about things that sound too good to be true. Actually, it turned out very well, it just took four days instead of one. I had a steel boxed installed in the back and a stout custom-made rack installed on top, all for less that $100!

The stack of paperwork needed for the transaction was more than a quarter-inch thick, plus an insurance policy even thicker, all included in the quoted price. Each page was explained to me in detail, with respect to my desire to travel onward in Bolivia, Chile and Argentina.

Required Bolivian insurance was included, with a low cost rider available for international coverage. Jorge even offered to repurchase the vehicle from me at the end of my travels. I was impressed. 

I'm considering the name 'Red, White and Blue,' from her color scheme and to maintain some continuity with 'Blue'. Any other ideas? Email me.

La Paz is placed in a large bowl shaped canyon, high in the Andes. So high that it ranks as the worlds' highest national capitol. The steep hills and thin air are a bad combination for new visitors. A short flight of stairs left me winded and light headed. A typical four-course lunch will set you back less than a buck. Good European and Asian food restaurants abound. But what gets my attention are the local delicacies not found anywhere else. 

Perhaps the abundance of food makes up for the lack of oxygen. The food is fresh, plentiful and cheap. Fresh produce and juice vendors are everywhere.

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You can watch your own mango, papaya and banana drink being blended for just a quarter. Delicious! The people of La Paz are high energy and extremely industrious. Capitalism thrives on a micro level here. Everyone has their own little entrepreneurial enterprise. The streets are jammed with tiny owner-operated minivans that make up the majority of the public transportation system. 

Coca is a large and legal part of the Bolivian economy. You can get a quart-sized bag of the leaves in a street market for about thirteen cents. Coca mate, tea made with coca, is available in the finest restaurants. There is even a Coca Museum! 

The small-scale economy has embraced new technology in some curious ways. HUMAN MOBILE PHONE BOOTHS are everywhere! Young people in bright colored jackets with a cell phone chained to their wrist selling calls for 13 cents a minute. 'Llamadas, llamadas, llamadas celulares!' they scream from every street corner.

MP3 music collections on CD are for sale in the streets. Thirteen hours of music for about two dollars. Regular music CDs are available on the streets as well as all knock-offs. Some vendors even carry pirated new release DVDs. I tried a copy or Lord of the Rings, Twin Towers. But alas, it didn't work on my laptop. The local and international history of the plant and its product is documented with news clippings and paraphernalia. From the tons of cocaine used in Coca-Cola, to Sigmund Freud singing its' praises, learn all about it at the museum.

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