| Then there
are the taxis, some of which look like they have been made from components
too damaged to grace a wrecker’s yard. A Dominican taxi driver has
a universal signal, which is a sort of flicking of the hand out of the
window. This can mean: “I am turning left”; “I am turning right”;
“I am stopping”; I have room”; “I am full”, and; “Life’s
like that” (when he has just driven out straight in front of you trying
to kill you). In a small saloon car at full capacity, there will
be a driver plus six passengers. I would not recommend that you use
these “publicos”. Another wild animal on the roads is the “gua
gua”, a mini-bus service running on defined routes. The drivers
are maniacs, and they leave the universal signal to the conductor, who
hangs out of the passenger doors waving his arm. The meanings of
this signal are the same as for taxis. Finally, there are the SUVs.
Obviously, if you have a big car with lots of protection (bull bars
almost universal too), then you have to drive as if there is no tomorrow.
The lunacy
of driving in the Dominican Republic is something that you can get
used to, and I am not suggesting that you should not have a car.
Please, however, try not to drive once the sun goes down, because many
of your fellow road users will be drunk, and it can be more dangerous than
in the rush hour.
Two other
aspects of the degraded infrastructure of the country are worth a mention
here. Tap water is not safe to drink. Purified water is easy
to find and is inexpensive (except in hotels, but are you surprised
by my saying that?) so stick to it at all times. When you first
move to the Dominican Republic, quite severe stomach upsets are common.
I guess that you pick up bugs from food products, such as salads etc.
There are nasty
bugs around, so always consult a physician if diarrhoea persists. Another
infrastructure issue that drives everyone nuts is electricity supply.
For the amount and quality of volts that you receive, the Dominican
Republic must have some of the most expensive electricity in the world.
All buildings have a generator, and they are on for periods of most days.
The supply
is subject to appliance murdering power surges, and at the opposite end
of the scale, appliance-damaging brownouts. A privatisation of the
state electricity companies some years ago has left everyone (government,
producers, distributors and customers) blaming each other. An
objective appraisal is simply that things are in a mess.
Telecommunications
and cable TV are excellent and at reasonable cost, when you have them.
One thing that will upset anyone used to a culture that understands customer
service is the unique approach to it in Latin America. It is not
worth describing that aspect of life in too much detail here, but be aware
that appointments are rarely kept, parts are often missing, you may have
paid your money but you don’t necessarily get the product/service straight
away and complaining about customer service is about as much use as a chocolate
bicycle. We learned, ever so slowly, to adapt to a different rhythm,
and then the banging of heads on walls in total frustration abated somewhat
– although never completely.
Dominican people
are friendly, helpful and curious. Even when confronted with the
fact that most people speak only Spanish (and Dominican Spanish is very
quick, with a lot of abbreviated words), a foreigner will on most occasions
find numerous citizens willing to assist with any problem. Personal
safety is what you would expect in any large city. I can honestly
say that the Santo Domingo, in my experience, is as safe as any city that
I know in the UK. In 2002 and 2003 there have been some kidnappings
for ransom of members of wealthy business families, but it does not appear
to be a spreading trend. Again, as in any large city, the barrios
of Santo Domingo have drugs problems and related violence. You just
need to be savvy about which parts of town to be in at which times of day.
One aspect
of culture shock that you may feel in the Dominican Republic is the
noisiness of the streets. Cars, houses and the numerous small corner
markets blare out competing decibels of merengue music, the favourite dance
style in the country. Often, it is great simply to wind down the
windows and soak it all in.
The weather
in Santo Domingo is hot. The sun is intense, and if you are Caucasian,
can burn unprotected skin in a few minutes. In the autumn, with the
thermometer popping, the rains falling regularly and the risk of hurricanes,
you can only dream of snow on cold winter mornings! Even though winter
temperatures fall by a few degrees from the summer peak, it stays sweltering
– in my European opinion. Dominicans break out the jackets and woolly
jumpers and worry that they will succumb to pneumonia.
Next time
– social life, recreation and residency issues. |