Ascension, St. Helena, Tristan da Cunha: Napoleon's Tomb And Other Secrets Of The South Atlantic  ~  By Cristy Trembley
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ASCENSION, St. HELENA, TRISTAN da CUNHA
Napoleon's Tomb And Other Secrets Of The South Atlantic ~ By Cristy Trembly
These are 3 islands in the middle of the South Atlantic, between the fat parts of South America and Africa.  They’re not easy to get to, but well worth it.  You can take the RMS St. Helena ship several times a year from England, and after 3 weeks, get to Ascension Island, then another 3 days to St. Helena, and once a year, they stop in Tristan, a 4 day ship journey from St. Helena.  It is then 5 more days to Cape Town, South Africa.  But if you don’t have the time for that initial 3 weeks journey, you can fly on the RAF Supply jet from Brize Norton Air Base in England to Ascension, which is their fuel stop on the way to the Falklands.  I was one of two women on the 280-seat former Pan Am jet, and the only non-military.  We had a hot meal but no movie on the 8 hour flight, so there was plenty of time to sleep. 

Ascension Island is a former US/British military installation, and there is still NASA tracking equipment on the island.  There is AFRTS for television, and they have APO addresses so you can order from catalogs and have access to the outside world.   The houses are nice and modern, the streets clean and the water is beautiful.  Then you take a tender out to the ship, which carries cargo and passengers and acts as a shuttle between Ascension and St. Helena for the workers stationed there.  It is a modern ship and the food is excellent, and fortunately for the 3 day sail to St. Helena the water is smooth.

We arrived in St. Helena, and my penfriend Ivy is waiting for me!! Her family runs the hotel there, Wellington House, built in 1781. She showed me all around the island.  There’s a lot to see and do and 3 days isn’t enough time!!  We saw Napoleon’s tomb, Radio St. Helena, Governor’s House, and the French consulate which is no longer staffed, but a reminder of the relationship this island has with France. Napoleon’s House is a very interesting museum, and the beach is beautiful.

One side of the island is dry like Southern California, the other side is very green.  Main Street is full of cute shops and at the end of Main Streetis there is a long set of stairs to the top of a mountain called Jacob’s Ladder ,which is steep and challenging, but there’s a fantastic view at the top worth seeing.

I also had a chance to talk on a ham radio from there, which was very exciting since you don’t get to see (or be!) a ZD7 every day!! People there were so friendly and helpful and I really felt at home there.

The ladder was built to haul ammunition from the town of Jamestown up to a fort located on Ladder Hill. The ladder has 699 steps.
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But all too quickly I had to get back on the ship and prepare for the 4-day journey to Tristan.  The seas were a little rougher and I was looking forward to arriving in Tristan, and finally we did !! Sometimes the seas are too rough and they have to passby the island, but fortunately we were able to land.  They have a 4-day window on the itinerary to account for weather so we were lucky. You climb down a rope ladder into a smaller boat to go ashore, and I was afraid of the descent but I did it!! I met my penfriend Jane there and went to their home where I stayed 2 nights.  You can stay overnight as long as you have permission and a place to stay.  There are 7 families that live there, with about 100 people all on one side of the island.
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Napoleon lived in this residence on St. Helena from 1816 to 1821. (Photo by John Ekwall)
It is volcanic, and rocky and hilly in some areas.  We walked around town, the grocery store, museum, and ate a lot of crayfish and potatoes, two locally produced foods!! It was excellent, I wish I could have brought some home!!  It’s not easy to get here but it is fascinating, and they’re glad to get visitors because ships only come from South Africa with mail and supplies.  When Queen Elizabeth visited, they brought her by helicopter from the Britannia, she didn’t have to climb the rope ladder!! Unlike Pitcairn, there is a flat spot for landing a helicopter but this spot is not reachable by land - only by ship.

When the seas start to get rough they ring the whistle 2 times and that means “be at the ship dock in an hour or we’re leaving you” - so sadly, the whistle blew and we had to go.  I climbed back onto the ship and said good-bye to Jane and my new friends on Tristan - I was sorry to leave.

Five full days later we arrived in Cape Town, but not without a lot of seasickness in the “Roaring 40s’ ” as it’s called and I was the first one off the ship and I didn’t look back.  I don’t regret my ship journey for one minute and visited three amazing islands.  It was a fantastic journey that few people get to make, and I treasured my time in the South Atlantic.

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