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Life In A Hammock
Living In The East Asian Tropics
By Bon Viveur
I love the Tropics, especially Asia and Oceania. My first tropical experience was Thailand, holidaying away from a well-paid expat job in the Middle East. First I went to Thailand and later the Philippines.

After the harshness of the deserts and the dry mountains of Saudi Arabia, the greenery almost brought tears to my eyes. I found the temperatures mild, 24 to 27 C, compared to the 40 to 50 degrees C of Middle Eastern summers.

And the people! No. No hostile dark frowns. Smiles all around; women passing gracefully by on the street and in the churches.

I was hooked after my first visit. It took a few years more and a yearlong stay in Japan for the idea to stay permanently in the Far East to take hold of me. A Far Eastern friend of the female persuasion had much to do with it, I must confess.

Because of the widespread use of English in the Philippines, where most of the newspapers are in English, this country with its 7000 islands and party-loving people, caught my attention. Its praises had been sung to me by my Filipino doctors and nurses during my stay in the Middle East; and from what I had been told by my Filipino friends in the Middle East, the best place to live in the Philippines was the Island of Cebu.

My first trip to Cebu was in 1980s with a woman who I liked very much, we stayed on a small island near Cebu - actually the island we stayed on was a bird sanctuary. During this first visit we snorkeled around the beautiful reefs, spent the days in the hammock together under coconut trees; we went diving for sea urchins and dined on freshly caught fish.

When I next saw the place I had stayed in on my first visit, the typhoon of 1990 had left only the foundations of our Nipa and bamboo cottage.

It had been very near the sea and had been destroyed during the typhoon. Still it was and is a great and romantic place (I actually got myself married there later on--I must tell you the story of the tipsy priest), it is still a place I want to come back to for many more years. Our marriage witnesses on the Island were 99 and 100 years old.

How did I come to decide to give the Philippines a go for long-term residence?

It was a property in Consolacion that fired my imagination.

At first I was love struck enough to consider a piece of land in a village far from the City, I wanted to build a cottage on the beach and call it cloud 9. I kept that in mind as an option, but I started to look closer to the city and, especially, closer to the airport. I was fortunate in my timing.

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The Marcos regime was nearing its end. The man was sick in body and mind at that time.  Aquino had been assassinated.  Confidence was at an all-time low.

Vendors wanted to negotiate. I didn't mind making a biggish investment, as long as I knew I was getting value. Luck had it that a good-sized property in Consolacion was quietly on the market. I knew about this via my wife.

The easiest way to buy property in the Philippines is to give it to your Filipina wife. Trust. Loyalty. Commitment. Family. These words still have meaning in the Philippines. They are the part of the Philippines that works.

The downside of the Philippines is of course the corruption, graft, and nepotism – all of these things have meaning too. They are what make the country a challenge for an "amerikano" (all white people are " 'kano's") and Filipinos alike. In this respect, living in the Philippines is a learning experience, especially about yourself. The poor people from the villages are generally honest and can be a pleasure to deal with, especially if you learn to speak Binisaya. (the language spoken in the Visaya's ).

Like all Malay people, they can be touchy. Treat them with calm and respect and they will do everything for you. Show anger or rudeness and they will shy away from you. Abuse them and you may get killed. Justice does not work very well if you don't have money, so there is a lot of DIY. You hear about house-helpers killing a cruel Chinese employer from time to time. The city’s middle class speaks English and the language of instruction in the schools is English – at least in Cebu. In Manila, this is not the case and consequently English is not as well spoken in the capital. One reason why English is so widely spoken in Cebu is because of the focus on developing software – most software developers must speak English and Cebu is a leader in software development.

The Philippines is still a very religious country; it is a catholic country; in that respect it is unique in Asia - East Timor being the only other country in Asia to be predominantly catholic.

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The catholic religion in the Philippines is a curious and unique blend of Spanish Catholicism, native animism, Chinese beliefs and Cultism. Cultism is becoming more and more prevalent in the news, with some cult leaders holding themselves above the law. Even if you are not religious, give a local church a try anyway. Like in Polynesia, you cannot know what moves the society if you do not know church-life.

For girls, church is not only the place to pray for a good husband, but also the place to show yourself off to prospective husbands. It’s a little bit like Bali with all the unmarried girls sitting dressed-up at temple entrances waiting to be noticed. If you want to talk with a potentially permanent lady friend, meet her during or after church. This is a much more solid option than meeting a Philippine woman in one of the numerous bars.  A Cyber café (of which there about 500) might be another good option, but you may have to compete with Cyber chat-partners.

To come back to the property I fell in love with. It was just perfect; it fit my dream of a huge tropical garden: 10,000 sq. meters on a hill overlooking the highway, but not too close; not far from the city and close to the airport.

I live in a municipality of about 30,000 people; small enough to make friends with the mayor. I have a wall all around my property for privacy and security. My house is huge, with huge rooms: like the houses I was used to in the Middle East. There is a gatehouse on the property for one or two families. I still have space to build as much as I want: first thing I built was an original round pool and an airy Japanese Rest House and a lot of paved space to park cars, and a 3-phase Power and an independent water supply with its own bore and water tower. Here are some pictures of it www.imachination.com/orchidpark.

The original owner of the property was Spanish: he was from a Spanish-colonial family and had built the house using large slabs of glazed brick from the inside of glass ovens. The architecture is strong and wide (25x25m), based on unique stone blocks, ready for the occasional typhoons that hit this far south. When I walked into the house I loved the cool dark huge interior right away.

I must tell you about the strangest thing that happened at the moment we signed the deal. There was a loud thunderclap that came out of the clear sky; must have been a meteorite. As an omen it was not bad. We were able to bring in a Mercedes from Europe, we survived the fall of the Marcos regime and brought two lovely children into the world, they are growing up in the most protected and loving environment imaginable: a private tropical garden with a warm pool and lots of children and helpers from nearby families – these are people who have plenty of time for each other. We planted the whole garden with around 400 trees and plants and orchids. We brought in Hawaiian blue grass for the lawns around the house; the rest of the garden was grazed for us by two deer-like Balinese cows and their calves. In this way we also had compost for the young trees. Citrus trees (calamansi) do well in the limestone soil that is prevalent here. We found some citrus trees already planted when we bought the property and then had most of the land planted with them before our larger trees grew bigger. In the beginning, we grew all sorts of crops between the trees: peanuts, corn and even tobacco. The Spanish owner had tried his hand at grapes. Between the calamansi trees we had planted camunggai (drumstick trees). Fast growing and with edible leaves, ideal for fish-soup. Around these trees is the place where we have grown our orchids.

With the first sprays of orchid flowers hanging in awesome splendor from the camunggai trees we decided to name our place Orchid Park. We stayed in this Paradise for 8 years.  Life in the hammock and the pool, the Economist every week, and satellite TV: In this world but not of this world. If you can afford it, a mid-life break of such proportions could be the best decision you ever make, especially if you want to raise a new family.

P.S. Orchid Park is now leased (until July, 2003) to an all-girl costume jewelry manufacturing company, employing about 120 girls.

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