| Getting
Out of America |
| Why Not? |
| By Margaret Burke |
| “Why don’t
you go to Japan, too?” my best friend asked me, as she explained all
the paperwork she had. She, an Asian studies major, was thinking about
it. She had obvious goals and reasons to go, but what about me? I had never
lived outside Texas, let alone the United States. And then again, why not?
It’s fifteen months later, I’m back in America, and I’m honestly not sure
if I learned more about Asian culture or myself. And whether or not I’m
aware of it, my thinking has changed immeasurably. Everyone is repeatedly
asked, “Why did you come to Japan?” and frankly, I never had a great
answer. Curiosity? Change? Everyone has different reasons. Many had just
finished college, some planned to stay long-term, and some were older and
traveling.
In escaping
from America, there are fewer places farther-geographically or culturally-than
Japan. |
|
|
|
|
|
| Tokyo itself
is the best place to begin life abroad in Japan. You can get by with
little to no Japanese, English isn’t a complete rarity, and large colorful
maps and trains guide you at every turn. In the beginning, Tokyo also presents
a façade of Western life—which can make for an easier transition.
Daily life appears to be not so changed from the grind of any big city,
while still being surrounded by a bold new environment. It is while living,
working and interacting, that you begin to learn and see the Japanese culture,
more strong and prevalent than you ever realized—seemingly disguised and
yet brazenly obvious. Tokyo is an intricate weaving of East and West and
it teaches a magnificent lesson in keeping an open mind and realizing,
for better or worse, that you are more of an American than you ever thought
possible.
Finding
a job is not nearly as difficult as one might imagine. A brief search on
www.monster.com
yields many ESL jobs, mostly in Japan and South Korea. The job that took
me to Japan, and many others since 1981, was NOVA. NOVA (www.teachinjapan.com)
is the Starbucks of English schools, and they are possibly the best way
to get to Japan. They require at least a bachelor’s degree, though nothing
specific, (I was a television camera operator) and they provide
on-the-job training. |
|
|
| After screening
a brief on-line application and in-person interview, they process everything,
including a working visa (done a few months before your departure). I had
to buy a one-way ticket to Tokyo myself, but once there, I was met at the
airport, taken to my apartment (which NOVA found for me, though I was responsible
for paying the rent), and given maps and a feeling that assistance was
near, should I need it. It’s generally recommended that a new resident
bring around $1,000 starting money, but NOVA also offers an advance of
120,000 yen (approximately $1,000 these days), paid back over three months
time. Eventually, I moved into my own apartment and some of my friends
changed jobs. NOVA’s teaching style certainly isn’t for everyone, and English
schools run rampant—Aeon, Geos, Berlitz, to name a few, not to mention
the prospect of teaching privately. Once settled in Japan, the options
are limitless. However, having someone there to basically hold my hand
was probably more essential to my settling in than I can ever appreciate. |
|
|
Offshore Resources Gallery
|
|
|
| Getting there
isn’t a real problem—but what about all the anxieties and frustrations
of living abroad, especially somewhere as different as Japan? What if I
don’t speak Japanese? What if I don’t make any friends? How can I ever
find anything? What if I get lost on the trains? These must be the most
common anxieties, all of which are easily remedied. First of all, a school
like NOVA provides lots of information about living abroad—from
culture tips to emergency numbers to good internet cafes. And when in doubt,
throw a stone and you’ll find a record store that carries The Metropolis,
Tokyo’s weekly answer for curious gaijin (foreigners). It can be
viewed on-line at www.metropolis.japantoday.com. It is full of classifieds,
restaurant and bar reviews, movie listings, and basic life in Tokyo. For
more specific information about food or the culture surrounding it, there
is www.bento.com, and www.jnto.go.jp/
and www.lonelyplanet.com offer
more about Japan in general, including “getting around” sections.
A little preparation can be helpful, but trying things out for yourself
is the only real way to learn. I’ve made mistakes on the trains, walked
the streets of Tokyo—completely lost—and easily found my way back again.
You are almost never far from a train or subway of some sort, and though
taxis may be exorbitantly priced, a ride to the nearest station (eki)
is usually cheap fare. |
|
|
| These resources
take away much of the fear, but it will all be new and daunting in the
beginning, especially for a city the size of Tokyo. While mistakes can
make some of the best, or at least memorable, experiences, reading up a
little can’t hurt. The Metropolis advertises Japanese language schools
and classes, but studying on your own can be equally beneficial. Having
lived there and (attempted) studying on my own, I have found Japanese
For Busy People (easily found on www.amazon.com
with workbook, audio and video supplements) to be far and away the
most accurate, helpful and manageable aid to learning Japanese. And while
learning, what better place to try it out than the streets of Tokyo? Admittedly,
I never counted on the fear of speaking a new language to a native speaker—but
once you face this fear, you will not only overcome it, you will also understand
the Japanese reluctance to attempt English on you (if you think you’re
afraid of making mistakes…). |
|
|
Offshore
Resources Gallery
|
| The Metropolis
also has a section for language exchange, meeting people or groups to share
language and culture, an excellent forum for practice and meeting people.
And as for meeting people, even my Japanese students planning to study
for a year in the States expressed to me their deepest fear of, “What
if nobody likes me”? I must have possessed this fear myself upon embarking
on a new life, and yet I can’t remember it. Immediately, you are surrounded
by people in your same situation, people of a different culture eager to
speak with you, students, colleagues, that soon, it becomes a frivolous
fear of the past.
Try to leave
your American way of thinking far behind. That is to say, in Japan, not
everything is what is seems. A huge emphasis is placed on appearances.
This explains everything from dress (name brands are enormous—I used
to count the Louis Vuitton bags on my train rides—but there is also the
rebellious crowd of Harajuku, famous for their bizarre costumes) to
business transactions (I dare you to find a merchant who will flat out
tell you ‘no’—I’ve had conversations last indefinitely until I was the
one to give up!) to the necessity of politeness in general. The biggest
pitfall of living abroad is to remember just how American your thoughts
probably are—it’s not easy to get everything just the way you’d like (you
cannot have your ice cream in a waffle cone at Baskin Robbins—only the
sundaes come in waffle cones). Sometimes it’s the littlest things that
prove to be the most trying of your patience. For me, it was getting stamps
at the post office, while others went insane finding apartments. It mostly
came down to luck and timing, and more than anything, patience. What you
think is trivial and ridiculous (wait until you see some of the paperwork)
is to them, of the utmost importance. Perhaps you’re used to taking shortcuts,
cutting corners or making things happen as soon as possible (in whatever
sense) but that is not the case in Japan.
It taught me
patience, therefore, it taught me to be respectful of their culture. Frankly,
as an American, they usually expect you to be loud, demanding and scary,
so the best thing you can do is help change their expectations of Americans.
My students always told me Americans were the most energetic, happy and
cheerful teachers, but as Americans, we also caught the most flak for being
arrogant, paranoid and ignorant. Take it in, learn, and move on—despite
whatever bad things I heard about America, I found other countries could
be just as blind about their own faults.
Watching
yourself grow accustomed to Tokyo, fitting in (as much as you can), adapting
to their way of life, is the most amazing thing.
Tokyo is not for everyone. There were hard months, when I wondered what
in the hell I was doing, why I was there. There were so many difficulties
and annoyances, and Tokyo was a cold place. I had friends, but if the city
doesn’t like you, a dark cloud follows you throughout the day. And like
most obstacles, I overcame it and became genuinely comfortable as Tokyo
became my real home. Tokyo appears cold—and to a degree, it certainly is—the
crowds and their nature give it this feel. But as individuals, I cannot
imagine a warmer, more considerate people. People who will more than go
out of their way to help and make you feel at home. And perhaps it is something
to do with the individuals and their moral choices, the large absence of
organized religion, or the socialist style of the economy of Japan, but
Tokyo was for me, the safest place in the world. My students were surprised
how safe I found it (which assuredly must have contributed to their
idea that America is full of chaos and danger). I just laughed and
said, “Maybe. But it’s a hell of a lot safer than anywhere else in the
world!” If I can ever walk down a dark empty street with my earphones
half-in, talking on my keitai (cell phone) while digging through
my bag without a second thought, anywhere besides Japan, I’ll be sure to
make note of it. Before you know it, you fit in and you love the routine
you’ve established, you know the trains, the city, what to expect of the
people, and even I acquired a rudimentary grasp of a basic conversation
(the most essential of which was, when you don’t understand, just stare
blankly).
So for anyone
who wants to experience a new life—challenging but rewarding and fulfilling—Tokyo,
Japan, is the best place for it. Learning to develop thoughts outside
the American shell encasing your brain is delightful—for me, it was overcoming
the pitfall of frustrations. I’m embarrassed to admit the many times I
found myself thinking, “Why don’t they just…” or “Why don’t you
speak English?!”, the list goes on. I though I tolerated other cultures
and their way of life, but that doesn’t mean that I wasn’t what I hated
the most. I was, and to an extent still am, an arrogant American. I hope
I never showed it, but my way of thinking betrays me, and the more I learned
to recognize what was silliness on my part, the more I grew. It would seem
that I wasn’t always what I appeared to be, either. And somewhere over
the course of fifteen months, I grew very attached to my new Western and
Japanese friends, my routine, my cute little apartment. Things that irritated
me in the past were forgotten or just became acceptable (don’t we all
have irritations in daily life?), and all those changes and transitions
occurred with only my occasional recognition. I would never have expected
that my decision to come home last month was the hardest thing I ever had
to do. The main reason that I don’t regret the move home is that now I
fully appreciate what I gained from Japan—what better way to discover everything
I’ve learned about myself, my nationality, and Japan? |
|
Article
Index ~ Japan
Index ~ Overseas
Teaching Jobs Index ~ |