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Getting Out of America
Why Not?
By Margaret Burke
Why don’t you go to Japan, too?” my best friend asked me, as she explained all the paperwork she had. She, an Asian studies major, was thinking about it. She had obvious goals and reasons to go, but what about me? I had never lived outside Texas, let alone the United States. And then again, why not? It’s fifteen months later, I’m back in America, and I’m honestly not sure if I learned more about Asian culture or myself. And whether or not I’m aware of it, my thinking has changed immeasurably. Everyone is repeatedly asked, “Why did you come to Japan?” and frankly, I never had a great answer. Curiosity? Change? Everyone has different reasons. Many had just finished college, some planned to stay long-term, and some were older and traveling.

In escaping from America, there are fewer places farther-geographically or culturally-than Japan. 

Tokyo itself is the best place to begin life abroad in Japan. You can get by with little to no Japanese, English isn’t a complete rarity, and large colorful maps and trains guide you at every turn. In the beginning, Tokyo also presents a façade of Western life—which can make for an easier transition. Daily life appears to be not so changed from the grind of any big city, while still being surrounded by a bold new environment. It is while living, working and interacting, that you begin to learn and see the Japanese culture, more strong and prevalent than you ever realized—seemingly disguised and yet brazenly obvious. Tokyo is an intricate weaving of East and West and it teaches a magnificent lesson in keeping an open mind and realizing, for better or worse, that you are more of an American than you ever thought possible.

 Finding a job is not nearly as difficult as one might imagine. A brief search on www.monster.com yields many ESL jobs, mostly in Japan and South Korea. The job that took me to Japan, and many others since 1981, was NOVA. NOVA (www.teachinjapan.com) is the Starbucks of English schools, and they are possibly the best way to get to Japan. They require at least a bachelor’s degree, though nothing specific, (I was a television camera operator) and they provide on-the-job training.

After screening a brief on-line application and in-person interview, they process everything, including a working visa (done a few months before your departure). I had to buy a one-way ticket to Tokyo myself, but once there, I was met at the airport, taken to my apartment (which NOVA found for me, though I was responsible for paying the rent), and given maps and a feeling that assistance was near, should I need it. It’s generally recommended that a new resident bring around $1,000 starting money, but NOVA also offers an advance of 120,000 yen (approximately $1,000 these days), paid back over three months time. Eventually, I moved into my own apartment and some of my friends changed jobs. NOVA’s teaching style certainly isn’t for everyone, and English schools run rampant—Aeon, Geos, Berlitz, to name a few, not to mention the prospect of teaching privately. Once settled in Japan, the options are limitless. However, having someone there to basically hold my hand was probably more essential to my settling in than I can ever appreciate.
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Getting there isn’t a real problem—but what about all the anxieties and frustrations of living abroad, especially somewhere as different as Japan? What if I don’t speak Japanese? What if I don’t make any friends? How can I ever find anything? What if I get lost on the trains? These must be the most common anxieties, all of which are easily remedied. First of all, a school like NOVA provides lots of information about living abroad—from culture tips to emergency numbers to good internet cafes. And when in doubt, throw a stone and you’ll find a record store that carries The Metropolis, Tokyo’s weekly answer for curious gaijin (foreigners). It can be viewed on-line at www.metropolis.japantoday.com. It is full of classifieds, restaurant and bar reviews, movie listings, and basic life in Tokyo. For more specific information about food or the culture surrounding it, there is www.bento.com, and www.jnto.go.jp/ and www.lonelyplanet.com offer more about Japan in general, including “getting around” sections. A little preparation can be helpful, but trying things out for yourself is the only real way to learn. I’ve made mistakes on the trains, walked the streets of Tokyo—completely lost—and easily found my way back again. You are almost never far from a train or subway of some sort, and though taxis may be exorbitantly priced, a ride to the nearest station (eki) is usually cheap fare.
These resources take away much of the fear, but it will all be new and daunting in the beginning, especially for a city the size of Tokyo. While mistakes can make some of the best, or at least memorable, experiences, reading up a little can’t hurt. The Metropolis advertises Japanese language schools and classes, but studying on your own can be equally beneficial. Having lived there and (attempted) studying on my own, I have found Japanese For Busy People (easily found on www.amazon.com with workbook, audio and video supplements) to be far and away the most accurate, helpful and manageable aid to learning Japanese. And while learning, what better place to try it out than the streets of Tokyo? Admittedly, I never counted on the fear of speaking a new language to a native speaker—but once you face this fear, you will not only overcome it, you will also understand the Japanese reluctance to attempt English on you (if you think you’re afraid of making mistakes…).
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The Metropolis also has a section for language exchange, meeting people or groups to share language and culture, an excellent forum for practice and meeting people. And as for meeting people, even my Japanese students planning to study for a year in the States expressed to me their deepest fear of, “What if nobody likes me”? I must have possessed this fear myself upon embarking on a new life, and yet I can’t remember it. Immediately, you are surrounded by people in your same situation, people of a different culture eager to speak with you, students, colleagues, that soon, it becomes a frivolous fear of the past.

Try to leave your American way of thinking far behind. That is to say, in Japan, not everything is what is seems. A huge emphasis is placed on appearances. This explains everything from dress (name brands are enormous—I used to count the Louis Vuitton bags on my train rides—but there is also the rebellious crowd of Harajuku, famous for their bizarre costumes) to business transactions (I dare you to find a merchant who will flat out tell you ‘no’—I’ve had conversations last indefinitely until I was the one to give up!) to the necessity of politeness in general. The biggest pitfall of living abroad is to remember just how American your thoughts probably are—it’s not easy to get everything just the way you’d like (you cannot have your ice cream in a waffle cone at Baskin Robbins—only the sundaes come in waffle cones). Sometimes it’s the littlest things that prove to be the most trying of your patience. For me, it was getting stamps at the post office, while others went insane finding apartments. It mostly came down to luck and timing, and more than anything, patience. What you think is trivial and ridiculous (wait until you see some of the paperwork) is to them, of the utmost importance. Perhaps you’re used to taking shortcuts, cutting corners or making things happen as soon as possible (in whatever sense) but that is not the case in Japan.

It taught me patience, therefore, it taught me to be respectful of their culture. Frankly, as an American, they usually expect you to be loud, demanding and scary, so the best thing you can do is help change their expectations of Americans. My students always told me Americans were the most energetic, happy and cheerful teachers, but as Americans, we also caught the most flak for being arrogant, paranoid and ignorant. Take it in, learn, and move on—despite whatever bad things I heard about America, I found other countries could be just as blind about their own faults.

Watching yourself grow accustomed to Tokyo, fitting in (as much as you can), adapting to their way of life, is the most amazing thing. Tokyo is not for everyone. There were hard months, when I wondered what in the hell I was doing, why I was there. There were so many difficulties and annoyances, and Tokyo was a cold place. I had friends, but if the city doesn’t like you, a dark cloud follows you throughout the day. And like most obstacles, I overcame it and became genuinely comfortable as Tokyo became my real home. Tokyo appears cold—and to a degree, it certainly is—the crowds and their nature give it this feel. But as individuals, I cannot imagine a warmer, more considerate people. People who will more than go out of their way to help and make you feel at home. And perhaps it is something to do with the individuals and their moral choices, the large absence of organized religion, or the socialist style of the economy of Japan, but Tokyo was for me, the safest place in the world. My students were surprised how safe I found it (which assuredly must have contributed to their idea that America is full of chaos and danger). I just laughed and said, “Maybe. But it’s a hell of a lot safer than anywhere else in the world!” If I can ever walk down a dark empty street with my earphones half-in, talking on my keitai (cell phone) while digging through my bag without a second thought, anywhere besides Japan, I’ll be sure to make note of it. Before you know it, you fit in and you love the routine you’ve established, you know the trains, the city, what to expect of the people, and even I acquired a rudimentary grasp of a basic conversation (the most essential of which was, when you don’t understand, just stare blankly).

So for anyone who wants to experience a new life—challenging but rewarding and fulfilling—Tokyo, Japan, is the best place for it. Learning to develop thoughts outside the American shell encasing your brain is delightful—for me, it was overcoming the pitfall of frustrations. I’m embarrassed to admit the many times I found myself thinking, “Why don’t they just…” or “Why don’t you speak English?!”, the list goes on. I though I tolerated other cultures and their way of life, but that doesn’t mean that I wasn’t what I hated the most. I was, and to an extent still am, an arrogant American. I hope I never showed it, but my way of thinking betrays me, and the more I learned to recognize what was silliness on my part, the more I grew. It would seem that I wasn’t always what I appeared to be, either. And somewhere over the course of fifteen months, I grew very attached to my new Western and Japanese friends, my routine, my cute little apartment. Things that irritated me in the past were forgotten or just became acceptable (don’t we all have irritations in daily life?), and all those changes and transitions occurred with only my occasional recognition. I would never have expected that my decision to come home last month was the hardest thing I ever had to do. The main reason that I don’t regret the move home is that now I fully appreciate what I gained from Japan—what better way to discover everything I’ve learned about myself, my nationality, and Japan? 

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