We were then taken to tour the tribe’s rich tropical forest full of plants from which natural medicines are made and used by the community, usually with the guidance of the Chief, who is also a medicine man and whom we met. We spent good quality time in their forest learning from a wonderful guide, a member of the community, who had the opportunity to study outside the village in the Smithsonian Institute in Panama.

He described in detail and with patience the functions of almost every plant they had there - ranging from anesthesia-perfume and special leaves for healing wounds and treating skin problems to a substitute for Viagra. We tasted, smelled and touched the various unique plants. We, the city women, of course told them they should try to sell samples of these unique plants, but they told us they prefer keeping their natural secretes in their private forest, using them when necessary for their community and not turning them into a commercial business - you never know, all that might change one day.

At that point we were sweating and starving and ready to go back to the village just in time for a great lunch prepared by an indigenous woman, who we were told was the community’s cook. Our plates were platano leaves on which delicious fresh fish with freshly fried platanos were served. It was one of the best lunches I have ever had in Panama, and sitting and eating in the middle of this natural setting probably made it even tastier.

After we finished eating and drinking some cold water we had brought with us, in order to not get dehydrated, we were told that the community had prepared some dances and music for us. The performance was held in the main hut where men, women and children gathered altogether. The men were playing authentic instruments, all hand made, and the women danced their traditional dances - one of them was called “El Tigre” (The Tiger). The final song was performed by men and women, while other men sang and played instruments and we were invited by the young men to join in! That was fun and really hilarious - dancing with my mother with the Embera Indians on a Friday morning, not so far away from home, but far away from our daily life style and our reality. On our way back in the canoe, in order to freshen up, we stopped to dip in the cold water of a hidden waterfall above Chagres River.

Just think about it - only a 40 minute drive from Panama City to the Chagres River, followed by a canoe trip, and we were in a new/old world of different customs and traditions, a world that hasn’t changed much in the last five centuries.  Well organized and suitable for adults and children alike, this visit to the Embera Indians can change one’s perspectives on life. A simple way of life was unforgettably revealed to us in person – not in books or on the discovery channel – in a most enjoyable way.

When we got home the same day around 17.00, we were pretty tired and ready for the relaxing part of our trip - lying on a beautiful white sandy beach with a spectacular view of crystal water and a fresh fruit shake in our hands.   The next day we drove to a nearby local airport called Albrook and flew in a 20-seat plane- just a 15 minute flight to  peaceful Contadora Island, part of the Pearl Islands Archipelago, which consists of 90 named islands and more than 130 smaller anonymous islands all surrounded by innumerable white sandy beaches.

The flight was so short we didn’t have time to get nervous, even though when we entered the plane we had to duck down in order not to bump our heads on the low ceiling, there wasn’t much air in the little bug of a plane, and we were practically dripping onto our paper fans; a funny little dog who sat on the lap of the passenger in front of us was breathing rapidly. The plane landed in what seemed to be a small football field once upon a time…we had made it to Contadora Island!

Having just visited the peace-loving Embera Indians, it wasn’t hard to imagine how pirates and conquerors took over these islands, destroying the pearl fisherman, hunters, cultivators and fruit gatherers.  While historians tell us that the Indians here spoke the Cueva language, only a very few archeological traces remain of their civilization. Contadora is named after the Spanish word for counting, as it was here the Spanish conquerors counted the pearls the natives found for them in these waters before shipping them back to Spain. 

It was only a two-minute walk from the landing strip to our hotel, the Punta Galeon Resort, with the crystal clear water and perfect beaches right in front of us. This island, and others near it that are accessible only by boat, have attracted famous writers, artists and performers.  Even the Shah of Iran had a home in exile here. An eight-minute walk took us to the Contadora Island Beach Resort, the other main hotel on this island, which has a much nicer beach provided with beach chairs and huts for a bit of shade.  It was the perfect place for me to practice my yoga, and breathing exercises - cleaning all my energy channels and feeling at peace with my mind and body.

While I was meditating on the beach- I couldn’t stop to think- if only the water or the sand could speak to tell us the rich stories and secrets that lie beneath the peaceful crystal water and the white soft sand.

Playa Cacique is the second longest beach of the island and is said to be the most beautiful one in Contadora. Contadora Island has become the most developed archipelago island, but there are other islands all around it - which have dense forest and mangroves and which are full of clams and oysters.

Punta Galeon and Contadora Island Beach Resort are the biggest hotels on the island; however, there are other smaller accommodations. The hotels have marvelous private beaches, swimming pools, restaurants; entertainment during the high season, tennis courts, and a golf course. For water sports fans there is plenty to do - ranging from scuba diving, snorkeling, salt water fishing and boat tours. The island offers a true romantic haven for a couple, but it is also the perfect place for the entire family, a group of friends, or even a daughter and mother trip for catching up, spending good quality time with each other, chatting and making future decisions together. It’s just a great place to relax and enjoy the sun, the water and the sand -- the simple things nature provides us.
 

Tips on the Embera tour:

* Most of the local travel agencies in Panama City offer this tour.
*The agencies provide: transportation (usually a 4 wheel car or a van) and guides in English and other languages. 
*The duration of the tour is about 8/9 hours-suitable for adults and children alike.
*The more of you go- the cheaper it is –some agencies require a minimum of 4-5 people. 
* Bring with you: strong sun tan lotion, insect repellent spray (Off), bottles of water, hats, camera, bathing suits, comfortable shoes and wash and wipes- it’s pretty hot there!

Tips on Contadora Island:

* Most of the local travel agencies in Panama City offer hotel packages. 
* If you decide to go independently, the shortest way to get to Contadora is by plain--15-20minutes with Aeroperlas airline-they usually offer 2-3 flights a day. Ticket costs-- $58.80 round trip-flexible about changes, if space permits.
* The tickets can be reserved on the phone (507-3157500), but you must pay in Albrook airport in advance to make sure you have a seat- usually a day in advance.
* You can also call the direct line of the 2 major Contadora hotels to make a reservation (507-2143719), although there are other smaller accommodations.
* The rooms are simple but comfortable (Punta Galeon).
* It’s better to visit Contadora on the high season (Dec/Mar-Apr)- much livelier, less rain which means less bugs!!
* The low season is also enjoyable- we had great days on the beach, the only thing that bothered us was the bugs at night-so do remember to bring insect repellent spray.
* Additional items: sun tan lotion, hats, comfortable walking shoes for  walking around the island, bathing suits, good books, camera- you never know what you are going to see- beautiful pelicans all over, iguanas roaming around the golf course, etc.
* Come with patience because at times the staff is slow, but nice and helpful.
* Spending two to three days in Contadora is enough, since there are many other places worth exploring in Panama. 
* If you have more time to spare you can easily spend a couple of more days exploring all the different beaches on the Island.
* I advise you not to delay the check out until the last minute- they tend to be slow! And you don’t want to miss your plane.
*In case you want save a few bucks and get to the Embera community independently(by car)and not via an
agency-- you must contact Neldo Tocamo at 507-216-7765.

HAVE A GREAT TIME!
 

Zvia Leibler-Danon grew up in Israel and has lived in Panama for the last 5 years. She is a teacher at a local school in Panama City and has recently graduated from Florida State University-Panama where she majored in International Affairs. Her interests include: tropical islands, alternative medicine, local art and of course spas and yoga retreats up on the mountains of Panama. If you wish to contact her write: zldarticles@yahoo.com

.