The “worlds most dangerous road” drops over 11,000 vertical feet as it snakes its way through the Andes to the edge of the Amazon basin. It is the only way provisions can get from La Paz to Coroico and the other small towns in the region. For years it was a one-way road. On specified days of the week you could only go downhill. The other days it was one-way uphill. Currently traffic flows both ways. At some of the more treacherous blind corners, human traffic signalers stand to guide the traffic safely past each other.

Now the road is actually a tourist attraction. Gravity Tours (www.gravitybolivia.com) provides mountain bikes and guides to shepherd riders down the 64-kilometer course. A bus follows behind picking up stragglers and to transport riders and equipment back up to La Paz. 

The proprietor and head guide is a wild-bearded New Zealander who spices up the tour with stories of cannibals in Bolivia and anecdotes about casualties along the dangerous road.

The dress code on the ride called for layers. Layers that would accommodate the outrageous extremes in altitude and weather. We rode through chilly mountain air all the way down to steamy jungle, not to mention passing through waterfalls, rain and fog. The fog was a blessing at times, momentarily obscuring the view of the thousand-foot drop-off just a few feet from our tire tracks.

Riders are welcome to board the bus at any time for any reason. Perhaps the ride is not as crazy as I have made it sound. Then again, perhaps I'm crazy. But if you ever come to Bolivia, don't miss this ride. Bolivia in general has been a blast, and so far, this has been the highlight.

There are rumors; but only rumors: rumors about when the road will be cleared; rumors about bombing going on in Iraq. There are only two TV stations here and newspapers arrive by truck. Hence, no newspapers. Stranded, but enjoying the view from my room.

It is a vacation village in which many people willingly spend their time. I have been enjoying my time here. I would like to introduce you to two of my new acquaintances here.

Mario is a charming guy with a curious hobby. He feels very strongly about recycling. In particular, he is big on recycling disposable cigarette lighters! He would like to teach children the benefits of recycling cigarette lighters. (I thought to myself, hmm, teaching them not to smoke would be good. But back to the story...)  Findhopper "The second acquaintance you'll have to find for yourself." All of his artwork is made from recycled materials. Mostly lighters with assorted clock and watch parts. Wonderfully whimsical works of art!

Sorata is a remote mountain village, surrounded by smaller, even more remote indigenous villages.

It was originally the private home of a wealthy German family that made their fortune during the South American rubber boom. It has some very high ceilings and some big snakes. The snakeskins on the wall have reportedly been there since the 1930's.

And it seems like the maintenance has been deferred since the 1930's as well. In spite of it being a bit run down, or perhaps because of it, the place oozes character and history the balconies and walkways sag and slant and creak. There is a common sitting room the size of a small gymnasium that is furnished with historic photos and memorabilia.