| Through
Bolivia |
| Riding
My Bike On The World's Most Dangerous Road |
| By Mark McMahon |
| Rain. Fog.
Mud. Three thousand foot cliffs. Landslides. A narrow one-lane dirt
road with buses and trucks. Sounds like an unlikely combination for
a holiday bicycle outing. But somehow it works, and indeed, it was quite
exhilarating.
The “worlds
most dangerous road” drops over 11,000 vertical feet as it snakes its way
through the Andes to the edge of the Amazon basin. It is the only way provisions
can get from La Paz to Coroico and the other small towns in the region.
For years it was a one-way road. On specified days of the week you could
only go downhill. The other days it was one-way uphill. Currently traffic
flows both ways. At some of the more treacherous blind corners, human
traffic signalers stand to guide the traffic safely past each other. |
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| We are
told that the people who do this work are volunteers from one family, a
family that lost several members over the side.
Now the road
is actually a tourist attraction. Gravity Tours (www.gravitybolivia.com)
provides mountain bikes and guides to shepherd riders down the 64-kilometer
course. A bus follows behind picking up stragglers and to transport riders
and equipment back up to La Paz.
The proprietor
and head guide is a wild-bearded New Zealander who spices up the tour with
stories of cannibals in Bolivia and anecdotes about casualties along the
dangerous road.
The dress code
on the ride called for layers. Layers that would accommodate the outrageous
extremes in altitude and weather. We rode through chilly mountain air
all the way down to steamy jungle, not to mention passing through waterfalls,
rain and fog. The fog was a blessing at times, momentarily obscuring the
view of the thousand-foot drop-off just a few feet from our tire tracks. |
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| Everyone must
purchase health insurance or show evidence of their own coverage. Amazing
as it sounds, even rank beginner bike riders are welcome on the tour. Everyone
rides at their own pace with a guide and the bus bringing up the rear.
Riders are
welcome to board the bus at any time for any reason. Perhaps the ride
is not as crazy as I have made it sound. Then again, perhaps I'm crazy.
But
if you ever come to Bolivia, don't miss this ride. Bolivia in general has
been a blast, and so far, this has been the highlight.
There are
rumors; but only rumors: rumors about when the road will be cleared;
rumors about bombing going on in Iraq. There are only two TV stations here
and newspapers arrive by truck. Hence, no newspapers. Stranded, but
enjoying the view from my room. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| I can think
of worse places to be stranded. After the ride down the mountains, torrential
rains and resulting landslides 'trapped' most of the bike group in the
quaint little village of Coroico.
It is a vacation
village in which many people willingly spend their time. I have
been enjoying my time here. I would like to introduce you to two of my
new acquaintances here.
Mario is
a charming guy with a curious hobby. He feels very strongly about recycling.
In particular, he is big on recycling disposable cigarette lighters! He
would like to teach children the benefits of recycling cigarette lighters.
(I
thought to myself, hmm, teaching them not to smoke would be good. But back
to the story...) Findhopper "The second acquaintance you'll have
to find for yourself." All of his artwork is made from recycled materials.
Mostly lighters with assorted clock and watch parts.
Wonderfully whimsical
works of art!
Sorata is
a remote mountain village, surrounded by smaller, even more remote indigenous
villages. |
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| Its' quaintness
is its' main attraction, aside from it being a departure point for mountain
treks.
Another main attraction is a very cool, old place to stay.
It was originally
the private home of a wealthy German family that made their fortune during
the South American rubber boom. It has some very high ceilings and some
big snakes. The snakeskins on the wall have reportedly been there since
the 1930's.
And it seems
like the maintenance has been deferred since the 1930's as well. In spite
of it being a bit run down, or perhaps because of it, the place oozes character
and history the balconies and walkways sag and slant and creak. There
is a common sitting room the size of a small gymnasium that is furnished
with historic photos and memorabilia. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Even the guest
rooms are furnished with antiques that look like they have been there ever
since.
The place
is the size of a full city block, built around a central garden courtyard,
with a defunct swimming pool. The garden, although overgrown and under
maintained, is home to a huge variety of flowering plants native to
different parts of the world. It houses its own little ecosystem of colorful
insects and birds. It certainly feels like being in another time. Or
perhaps being in a museum, where the caretaker is on permanent leave.
TECHNICAL
DIFFICULTIES
Have haunted
me lately but have not slowed me down. I am still taking lots of photos
and notes...I have actually resorted to using FILM! (You remember that
stuff we used to take pictures with...) My little digital camera is now
defunct. My big digital battery doesn't hold a charge, nor does my
laptop battery. Software problems are preventing me from downloading photos
and uploading them online...I could go on. Then there are the car problems,
brakes, and frozen radiator, dead alternator...all part of the adventure!
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