Treasures
Of The Silver Coast
A Guide To The Dominican
Republic's North Shore ~ By Carolyn Kelly
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Dominican Republic is a Caribbean country with five mountain ranges, countless
rivers, spectacular waterfalls, sweeping valleys and surrounded on three
sides with breathtaking beaches. Whether your idea of a vacation is lounging
beneath a palm tree on a deserted beach or trying something more adventurous
like white-water rafting, scuba diving or mountain climbing, there is something
for everyone on this beautiful island.
The country’s
tropical climate with a year-round average temperature of 77 degrees attracts
tourists from around the world who are seeking a relaxing break at an all-inclusive
resort or adventure-seekers looking take advantage of the island’s diverse
terrain. Many of the larger resorts have such a wide selection of activities,
such as their own golf courses, casinos, water sports, entertainment and
spas, that guests can spend their entire vacation without leaving their
resort. In my travels to the Dominican, I found that venturing outside
of the tourist areas is the only way to truly experience the unique charm
and interesting culture of the country. In every town and village, whether
large or small, you will hear the rhythmic beats of merengue and bachata
music and meet friendly and welcoming people who are always willing to
help you with directions, teach you about their culture or maybe a few
words of Spanish. On my most recent visit to the Dominican Republic, I
explored several very different cities on the North Coast of the island.
In just over a week, I took a horseback ride through sugar cane fields
and a Haitian village, went on a Jungle Safari trip through the rural Dominican
countryside, windsurfed in Cabarete, visited ancient Taino caves in Los
Haitises National Park and tried snorkeling in the beautiful coral reefs
in Sosúa. At the end of my trip, I was already anxious to plan another
trip back. |
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Puerto
Plata
My travels
began in Puerto Plata, which means "Silver Port" in Spanish. This north
coast city is a popular destination for tourists from all parts of the
world who are seeking a relaxing, affordable vacation at one of the city’s
many all-inclusive resorts. I chose to start my trip in Puerta Plata because
its central location makes it great for taking day trips to nearby cities
Sosúa and Cabarete. Many visitors also travel down to Santiago,
the country’s second largest city, which is just over an hour away. I stayed
at the Coral Marien Beach Resort and Spa, one of the newest resorts in
the Puerta Plata area. Opened in 2001, the resort is a few minutes outside
of the Playa Dorada resort complex. It has a charming Caribbean atmosphere
with a spectacular pool, several restaurants, a sports bar, disco, miniature
golf course and water sports on its private beach. When I was ready to
start exploring the city, I booked a full-day tour of Puerta Plata through
my hotel for about $45.US. The tour started with a trip through downtown
Puerta Plata, famous for its Victorian architecture. We stopped for a tour
of the Brugal Rum Factory, where we watched the rum being made while sampling
some of their excellent varieties of rum. After that, it was on to the
San Felipe Fort, a
fortress overlooking
that Atlantic built by Spaniards in the 16th century. After a brief stop
for lunch, we toured the Amber Museum in downtown Puerta Plata. Puerta
Plata is one of the few locations in the world where amber naturally occurs.
The museum has many exhibits of various types of amber, as well as gemstones
such as Larimar, a turquoise-colored stone native to the Dominican Republic.
The day’s tour ended with a scenic cable car trip to top of Mount Isabel
de Torres, named in honor of Queen Isabel of Spain. At the mountain’s summit,
we visited a botanical garden and took in breathtaking views of the city
and coastline from 2,500 above sea level.
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A shot
of the Bay of Cabarete on the north coast.
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Cabarete
After a few
days in Puerto Plata, I traveled to Cabarete, a seaside town that attracts
windsurfers and those seeking an adventurous vacation. Cabarete is an energetic
place with an international flavor, bustling with the young and the young
at heart. The first thing I noticed about Cabarete, is that the surf is
much rougher compared to the calm shores found in other parts of the island.
This creates the ideal conditions for windsurfing, boogey-boarding and
even surfing. Cabarete Beach is considered to be one of top ten places
to windsurf in the world. I decided to try windsurfing and booked a lesson
at Club Nathalie Simon Cabarete, located on the beachfront in Cabarete.
A one-hour beginner’s lesson costs $36US, which includes equipment rental.
If you’re new to windsurfing, it’s best to take your lesson in the morning,
when the waters are calm. The winds start to pick up in the early afternoon
and create perfect conditions for intermediate or more advanced windsurfers.
Cabarete is also the departure point for other types of adventure travel.
Iguana Mama Tours offers hiking, mountain biking and ecotourism trips on
the North Coast and throughout the Dominican. If you’d like to learn more
about the adventure travel opportunities in the Dominican Republic, the
DR Pure web site (www.drpure.com)
offers comprehensive information about windsurfing, paragliding, rock climbing,
hiking, mountain biking, kayaking, horseback riding, scuba diving, river
rafting and other adventure sports in the area. Cabarete is a thirty minute
cab ride from Puerta Plata. If you plan on staying in Cabarete, there’s
no need to rent a car since most places in town are within walking distance
and many tour operators will pick you up at your hotel for excursions. |
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.Sosúa
Sosúa
is an eclectic beach town, fifteen minutes east of Puerta Plata with many
restaurants, a village of shops, cafes and a great nightlife scene. Sosúa’s
main attraction is its three beautiful beaches, each with powdery golden
sand and inviting turquoise water. At the top of Sosúa beach is
a small village of shops where you can bargain hunt for jewelry, clothing,
handicrafts and souvenirs from local merchants. Those who snorkel or scuba
dive will enjoy the spectacular coral reefs in Sosúa Bay. I tried
snorkeling for the first time and was amazed at the varieties of corals
and tropical fish that I saw just off shore. Dive centers such as the Hippocampo
Dive Center, Sosúa offer daily guided dives. Hippocampo’s dives
allow a maximum of six people and are conducted by PADI certified diving
instructors. They also offer night dives, shipwreck dives and diving trips
to other parts of the island. For those who would like to enjoy the beauty
of the reefs without going in the water, try a glass bottom boat tour that
departs from Sosúa Beach. It costs only $9.US per person for a half-hour
trip.
The Samaná
Peninsula
If you want
to get away from it all and spend a relaxing vacation in an enchanting
tropical paradise, the Samaná Peninsula is exactly the place. Located
in the eastern region of the North Coast, Samaná is a relatively
undiscovered vacation destination with something for everyone. From whale
watching, to pristine beaches and some of the most spectacular scenery
in the world, I fell in love with Samaná from the moment I arrived.
With the variety of activities to choose from, it was difficult to decide
where to start. Beach lovers will find no shortage of postcard-perfect
beaches throughout the Samaná peninsula. Most of the beaches are
very quiet, especially during the summer months. Las Galeras is one of
the most peaceful areas in all of Samaná, with a horse-shoe shaped
beach with clear, turquoise water and sugar white sand. West of Las Galeras
is Playa Rincon, a beach on the eastern part of the peninsula that has
been voted as one of the best beaches in the world by Condé Nast
Traveler. Since rough terrain makes this enchanting beach rather inaccessible,
the easiest route is to take a short ferry ride from Las Galeras. More
adventurous travelers may consider taking a trip to Salto de Limon, a stunning
hundred foot waterfall with a natural swimming pool at the bottom where
you can cool off after your hike there. Trips to the waterfall can be taken
by horseback or by a hiking from the main road. Many hotels in the area
will be able to arrange your trip there.
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Haitises National Park and Cayo Levantado
The next day,
I took a tour from Colonial Tours to the Los Haitises National Park and
Cayo Levantado. Los Haitises is a huge mangrove swamp that tourists can
visit by boat and get a glimpse of hundreds of rare species of plants,
birds and marine life. Inside the park are small islands and caves with
ancient pictographs left by the Tainos, the original inhabitants of the
island. Cayo Levantado, also known as "Bacardi Island", is a picturesque
island just off the coast of mainland Samaná that is a wonderful
place to spend the day. There are many lovely beaches and hidden coves
to explore throughout the island. Most group tours offer a traditional
Caribbean-style lunch, complete with local drinks such as Rum and Coke
or Pina Coladas. Tours to Los Haitises leave from Samaná. A full
day trip to Los Haitises and Cayo Levantado from Colonial Tours costs about
$80.US.
Whale Watching
in Samaná Bay
If you’re in
Samaná between mid-January and mid-March, be sure not to miss the
unique opportunity to take a whale watching excursion. For centuries, hundreds
of Humpback Whales from the North Atlantic make an annual trip to the warm
waters of Samaná Bay for their mating and calving season. During
the peak season, there are usually about a hundred whales in the bay at
any given time. Visitors can arrange a whale watching trip through Kim
Beddall of Victoria Marine Tours, which offers two departures daily from
both Samaná and nearby Cayo Levantado, from January 15th to March
15th. The trip lasts three to four hours, offers a 99% sighting rate and
costs $35 per person. Advance reservations are recommended. Victoria Marine
can be contacted by phone at (809)538-2494 or by e-mail at kim.beddall@codetel.net.do.
Guidebook
Getting
to Puerta Plata, Sosúa and Cabarete
American, Continental
and Northwest Airlines* offer daily flights into Gregorio Luperón
International Airport in Puerta Plata. Average round-trip fares range from
Miami range from $300 to $400. Cabs are readily available outside the terminal
and their prices are reasonable, but make sure to get the price for your
trip in advance. Several major rental car companies are available at the
terminal.
*Seasonal service
to Puerta Plata. Saturday only departures from 1/11 through 4/12. |
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The
coast line near Samaná
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Getting
to Samaná
Visitors to
Samaná can fly into either Puerta Plata or Santo Domingo and take
a short commuter flight to Samaná. American, Continental and Northwest
Airlines* offer daily flights to both Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo. Average
round-trip fares range from LAX range from $600 to $800. If you don’t mind
a four hour scenic ride, you can consider taking a bus from Puerto Plata
or Santo Domingo into Samaná.
*Seasonal service
only. Saturday only departures from 1/11 through 4/12.
American
- Tel: 1-800-433-7300 Web:www.aa.com
Continental
- Tel: 1-800-231-0856 Web:www.continental.com
United
- Tel:1-800-538-2929 Web:www.ual.com
Northwest
- Tel:1-800-447-4747 Web:www.nwa.com
Where to
Stay
Cabarete
Estrella
del Mar - A charming, ocean-front all-inclusive resort in central
Cabarete. Room for 2 - Approx. $180/night Address: Carretera 5, Cabarete,
DR. Phone: (809) 571-0808
Palm
Beach Condos - Features full-service apartment suites in central
Cabarete. Room for 2 - Winter rate, $100/night for a condo. Room for 2
– Winter rate, $50-$60/night for a studio. Address: Carretera 5, Cabarete,
DR Phone: (809) 571-0758
Puerto Plata
Coral
Marien Beach Hotel & Spa - Opened in 2001, this 5-star all-inclusive
has a spectacular pool, several restaurants, a sports bar, disco, miniature
golf course, spa and water sports. Room for 2 – Approx. $200/night, All-Inclusive.
Address: Luperon Road, Costa Dorada, Puerto Plata, DR Phone: (809) 320-1515
Fax: (809) 320-1414 E-Mail: marien@coralhotels.com
Jack
Tar Village - An adults only all-inclusive resort in the Playa
Dorada complex featuring a golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones,
private beach, a casino, and four restaurants. Room for 2 - $182/night,
All-Inclusive Address: Playa Dorada, P.O. Box 368, Puerto Plata, DR
Phone: (809) 320-3800 Toll-Free from the US: 1 (800) 858-2258.
Sosúa
Sosúa
Bay Hotel - A beachfront all-inclusive in the heart of Sosúa
with three pools, nightly entertainment, water sports and 144 rooms with
an ocean view. Opened in 2002. Room for 2 – $230/night, All-Inclusive Address:
Calle Dr. Alejo Martínez, No. 1 El Batey, Sosúa, Puerta Plata,
DR Phone: (809) 571-4000 Fax: (809) 571-4545 E-mail: reservations@starzresorts.com,
web:
www.starzresorts.com
Victoria
House - Deluxe beachfront hotel set on a hilltop overlooking Sosúa
Bay. A few minutes walk to restaurants, shopping and nightlife. Opened
in 2002. Room for 2 - $190/night Address: Calle Dr. Alejo Martínez,
No. 1 El Batey, Sosúa, Puerta Plata, DR Phone: (809) 571-4000 Fax:
(809) 571-4545 E-mail: reservations@starzresorts.com
Web www.starzresorts.com
Samaná
Casa
Marina Bay - An all-inclusive, beachfront resort in Las Galeras.
Room for 2 – Oceanview, All-Inclusive, Approx. $200/night Address: Las
Galeras, Samaná, DR Phone: (809)538-0020 Fax: (809)538-0038
Occidental
Grand Bahia - A Victorian-style resort with a 9-hole golf
course, riding stable, tennis courts and a private beach. Room for
2 - $150/night Address: Los Cacao, Samaná, DR Phone: (809)538-3111
Tropical
Lodge - Charming hotel in downtown Samaná, central to the
area’s popular attractions. Address: Avenida Marina, Samaná, DR
Room for 2 - $60/night including breakfast. (High Season) Room for 2 -
$40/night including breakfast. (Low Season) Phone: (809) 538-2480 Web:
http://www.tropical-lodge.com
Where to
Eat
Cabarete
Casa
del Pescador - The best seafood in Cabarete in a charming,
beachfront setting. Phone: (809) 571-0760
La Brisa
Restaurant and Bar - Seafood and traditional Dominican cuisine
in an open-air setting by the Yasica River. Phone: (809) 543-4289
Puerto Plata
Acuarela
Garden Café - Creative cuisine by Swiss & American trained
Chef/Owner Rafael Vásquez and his wife Linda Peters. Reservations
are recommended. Profesor Certad #3, Puerto Plata Phone: (809)
261-1000
Hemingway’s
Café - Popular bar and grille located in the Playa Dorada
Plaza with live bands performing each weekend. Phone: (809) 320-2230
Sosúa
On the
Waterfront - Delicious seafood dishes, Caribbean atmosphere and
an outdoor patio with dramatic views of sunsets over Sosúa Bay.
Dr Rosen 1, Sosúa, DR Phone: (809) 571-2670 Fax: (809) 571-3586
Alexander’s
Steak House - Address: Calle Ayuntamiento No.44, El Batey, Sosúa
Phone: (809) 571-3468
Samaná
Café
de Paris - Crepes and French cuisine in a modern décor.
Address: Malecon 6, Samaná City, DR Phone: (809) 538-2488
La Mata
Rosada - Description: Central Samaná restaurant featuring
excellent Italian cuisine and seafood. Malecon, Samaná City Phone:
(809) 538-2388
Currency
The local currency
is the Dominican Peso. The current currency exchange rate is $1.US = 20
Pesos. Most travelers find it best to bring travelers checks in US dollars
and some extra cash that you can exchange for pesos at a local bank or
hotel. Major credits cards are usually accepted at most resorts, larger
hotels and many stores and restaurants throughout the island, with the
exceptions of small towns and remote areas. In the Samaná Peninsula,
credit cards aren’t widely accepted, so be sure to bring traveler’s checks
or cash.
Entry Requirements
US Citizens
need only a Birth Certificate or valid US Passport for entry. No visa is
required; however visitors must purchase a $10 Tourist Card upon arrival
at the airport in the DR.
Language
Spanish is
the official language, but most people in the resort and tourist areas
speak fluent English. If you don’t speak Spanish, it doesn’t hurt to learn
a few basic Spanish phrases in advance.
Trip Planning
Resources
Cabarete
- Website: www.cabareteguide.com
- Site with information on hotels, flights and activities in the town of
Cabarete.
Debbie’s
Dominican Travel Page - Website: www.debbiesdominicantravel.com
- This site provides hundreds of hotel and resort reviews, a forum and
links to helpful resources for planning your visit to the Dominican Republic.
Dominican
Republic Secretary of Tourism US Office - Address: 136 E. 57 St., Suite
803, New York, N.Y. 10022 Phone: (888)374-6361, Fax: (212)588-1015 E-mail:
NewYork@sectur.gov.do
Web:http://www.dominicanrepublic.com/Tourism/
Dominican
Republic – Yours to Discover - Website: www.dominicanrepinfo.com
- A comprehensive tourism site with information about hotels, flights,
sports, sight-seeing, national parks and Dominican culture.
DR1 - Website:
http://www.dr1.com
- This well-maintained site features news, travel and tourism information,
discussion boards and useful DR related links.
Hispanola.com
- Website: www.hispaniola.com
- A site for finding accommodations, local information, maps and trip planning
essentials.
Puerto
Plata - Website:
www.popreport.com/VisitorsGuide/
- This site features a visitor’s guide and Puerto Plata news.
Samaná
- Website: www.samana.net - A
great site describing area attractions, accommodations and information
for those planning a trip to the Samaná peninsula.
Sosúa.com
- Website: www.sosua.com -
A site with tourism and visitor information about Sosúa.
Sites for
Tour and Adventure Travel Companies
Colonial
Tours and Travel - Offers tours to Cayo Levantado and Los Haitises
National Park with departures from Samaná. Address: Plaza
Las Terrenas Loca #2, Samaná, DR Phone: (809) 240-6493 Fax: (809)240-6493
http://www.colonialtours.com.do/
Dolphin
Dive Center, Cabarete - This dive center and resort offers the PADI
system of training and education. They also offer dive trips, lodging and
equipment rental. Address: Calle Principal, Cabarete, Puerto Plata,
Dominican
Republic Phone/Fax: (809) 571-0842 E-mail: d.divecenter@codetel.net.do
http://www.dolphindivecenter.com
DR Pure
- Website: www.drpure.com - This
site is the place to learn more about adventure travel in the DR.
Iguana
Mama Tours - Iguana Mama offer mountain biking, hiking and educational
tours throughout the Dominican. Toll-Free from the US: 1-800-849-4720
From the DR: (809)571-0908 E-mail: info@iguanamama.com
http://www.iguana-mama.com
Hippocampo
Dive Center, Sosúa - Address: Julio Arseno #7, Los Charamicos,
Sosúa, Dominican Republic Phone: (809) 571-4437 Email: info@hippocampo.com
http://www.hippocampo.com
Outback
Jungle Safari - This tour company offers half and full-day trips
that depart from Puerta Plata, Sosúa, Cabarete, Luperon and other
cities in the DR. Address: Plaza Turisol, Local 7, Ave. Luperon,
Puerto Plata Dominican Republic Phone: (809) 244 4886 http://www.outbacksafari.com.do/
Windsurfing
Club Nathalie Simon - Windsurfing lessons, equipment rental and tours
in Cabarete. Phone: (809) 571-0848 Fax: (809) 571-0595 Email:
info@cabaretewindsurf.comhttp://www.cabaretewindsurf.com/
Books on
the Dominican Republic
Berlitz
Latin American Spanish Phrasebook. Berlitz Travel Guides, 2001.
Dominican
Republic: A Guide to the People, Politics and Culture by
David Howard. Interlink Publishing Group, 1999.
Dominican
Republic: The Rough Guide by Sean Harvey. Penguin Group, 2000.
Lonely
Planet: Dominican Republic and Haiti, 2nd Edition by Scott
Doggett and Joyce Connelly. Lonely Planet, July 2002.
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