Carnaval 2003
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Carnaval 2003
Hanging In
By Escapeartist Staff
This was a Carnaval where I was always looking for a hammer and picking up a screwdriver instead that on touch shattered in my hands. But all the little problems never joined together to create one large problem, so I was happy. On Thursday the 27th I picked up the Toyota Corolla that I had reserved two-weeks before. Friday of Carnaval, we usually leave the city around 12:30 in the afternoon and head out to Isla Grande, an island located between Portobelo - the old Spanish gold town - and Nombre Dios - the place where Colombus on his fourth journey to the Americas called out: "In the name of God, we stop here." But we had to go to a formal dinner at the City Club on the top floor of the Edificio Intelligente. But I was sick and Roger didn't want to drive if the Carnaval scene was going to be in its panic mode.
So at about 5:30 we had made the decision to go to Isla Grande after all. We were 17% on our way to Isla Grande when I realized that we had forgotten the radio/CD player. We went back to our house which was about a 40 minute ride and picked up the radio, the cell-phones we had forgotten, and more CDs. And, Gabi and Rosi saw our neighbor who was returning from work at his beachfront bar on the Causeway.

We left and then realized after three minutes that I had forgotten my Carnaval shirt which was my Great-grandfathers and was given to me by my mother a few years before but which now had banana grass stains on it due to an accidental fall I had taken down a hill on Isla Grande. Anyway, we got back on the road and made it to Las Sabinitas after an hour on the road. Gabi and Rosi and I were in the car. 

They went into the Supermarket Rey in Las Sabanitas and bought some rum and mixers. From Las Sabinitas to Isla Grande is a short one-hour ride: the road takes you along the ocean and twists and bends right above the water. You look out to sea and see waves breaking against rocks and when you look inshore you see dark hills with rivers breaking down them headed for the ocean. During the day it is even better.

I once saw two-rainbows cross each other above me while my friend Ceferino drove under them in a small early 1980s Datsun pick-up. When Colombus' men returned to Spain after the 1504 expedition, they were asked by the royal family of Spain about the lay of the land in this part of the New World. 

Colombus' men rolled up a piece of paper into a hard ball and then untangled it and laid it flat on a table, they said, "It looks like that".

It was late around 12:30 in the morning when we arrived to the island and there were about three or four men waiting at the dock in La Guira to take us on a small boat to Isla Grande. 

The hour was very late to cross the channel and both the town on the landslide and on Isla Grande were both completely still.

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The boat took us to a dock and as we pulled into the dock which was placed on an isolated side of the island and which was dead still as we approached, a man appeared from the shadows of a street-lamp which hung high above the dock and had a powerful orangish light. He was working for the nearby hotel and when he realized we were not customers of the hotel he disappeared back onto the path which led from the dock to town or to the old French lighthouse. Our house was near; that's why we had landed in this place in the first place.

The house was a short walk and then we had to climb a steep hill, which at the top of was our friend Ron Keith's house. The power worked in the house and I found out very quickly after arrival that we could get water into the elevated water-tank the next day. We drank Glemmorange Scotch; it was 1:00 in the morning with the breezes blowing hard through the house. There was no moon so that made the darkness close. When the moon is out, and you can see at night even better than you can during the day, it is much easier to wander out into the night and roll around in the moonlight on the moss-like grass. Some people on Isla Grande say the moon is without a doubt stronger than the sun. But bad to sleep under.

Gabi crashed first and then me and then Rosi. The next day we went to the beach near the Hotel Isla Grande, there, I ran into an old friend from Isla Grande who was running a  restaurant/beach -umbrella business. And then after speaking with my friend, I sat on the hot beach in the early morning sun as people kicked soccer balls near my head and I thought that my Italian sunglasses which cost me $25 would soon become one of those good-bye Carnaval moments, a subtraction moment.

Gabi as always rescued me and we went back to the roof on the house. We drank beer with a little whiskey and to freshen up some Bailey's Creamo. All throughout the day people arrived from Panama City to Isla Grande. During the night we headed into town and had a mixed drink at Pupe's place or in Spanish Pupi. He makes a nice drink. Then food and then the disco and then we headed back to the house to relax with the breezes.

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Rosi returned later and crashed.

Next day we went to the beach early and left Rosi to enjoy the beach alone. Gabi and I headed back to the house to take a nap and take some sun on the roof of the house. Alberto and a friend showed up after a short time.

The hour was somewhere between 12:15 and 12:30. Alberto is 25 and a good friend and He, Gabi and I have always done well together, though this is a man who can have terrible strokes of luck. He once went to visit a friend in order to show off his pet monkey and the friend's dog upon seeing the monkey on Alberto's shoulder attacked, at the same time a horde of bees were excited by the screaming from the dog attack and came to the rescue. Soon after, an American soldier gave Alberto his 4x4 to drive as a goodwill gesture, and Alberto, not knowing how to drive, accidentally threw the truck into reverse and drove very quickly and wildly down into a small, steep river valley. Alberto went from road forward to sky upwards. This is a story he loves to tell with full adrenalin.

Alberto's friend was aggressive and quickly announced that alcohol was not going to work and that he wanted COKE as in Yap-A_Dapp_A_DOOOOO. The word, just hearing it, made me think of the 80s and ugly apartment complexes where people only spoke in hushed tones and were constantly waiting for the police to arrive over the wire. We steered off that and he announced that he wanted to be the godfather of my child; this demand was directed to Gabi - I was gone during the early part - and he wanted a truthful answer. Gabi with her sobering Costa Rican mind didn't answer, and hoped I would return to take care of this entanglement. I did; I said of course you can. And I made some Coconut Rum and Coca-Cola drinks and Alberto's friend thought the combination was like vanilla and then he suddenly announced in quasi-Noriega-esq military formalism that he had to work the next day, but before leaving he drank almost a half-a-bottle of Tequila. And I was on my first-drink, fourth-beer of enjoyment.

Alberto on the other hand stayed and drank and then passed out not without stumbling over the beer and snack things.

We left later in the afternoon after Alberto had slept. We left the island at about 5:30. I was worried about driving back the three hours to the city. I had stopped drinking and was sober. But didn't want police problems. Two years before about ten days after 9/11, we had been attacked and robbed at gunpoint. Gabi saved me because she told the killers that she needed her Id's because she had worked for years getting them. And they obliged her. They wanted to kill me. But didn't: I made like a dervish and escaped. They took the rental car. The next day, a Sunday, we went to see the police: We met a Detective Slush who couldn't help us: he was the only one in the office and the other detectives were gone. We went to the Hertz office and the representative got on the phone with Detective Slush and talked in a cartoonish rapid-fire. Monday I went back to the police station with the Hertz representative and we filled out forms and talked with people; and I realized the office I had been in the day before was now packed with detectives and people and forms going all around. It took a very long time to fill out the forms and help the police, and the police were very nice. But as I was leaving I asked the detective who was taking my statement about Detective Slush. What was Dt. Slush about and where had that name come from? The Detective, to whom my question was directed to, told me he had never heard of anyone with that name and he acted as if I didn't know the correct pronunciation of the word I was trying to say.

We arrived in the city on Sunday night and slept. The next day, Monday, we headed out to the beaches on the Pacific Coast. We went to Pal Mar Beach first. Very nice place. There is a wonderful little town set back from the beach. There is also a surf shop run by an Argentinean and the waves are big and the water is nice. We also went to Rio Mar. Nice place, also: a fresh water river meets the sea and there are low-cliffs from which you can jump: the nature here is more desert than tropical. Went out to dinner that night at a nice Thai restaurant that served vegetarian shrimp: for Gabi, not me. We liked the place; the music was Michael Bolton and Yanni, I think.

Today went to see Roger and worked. Gabi is asleep as I write now. It is about 2:00 in the morning on Tuesday the 4th. Carnaval has about four more hours in it - which I will enjoy - in Las Tablas the fireworks go straight to the sky and then the sardine and the stupid Carnaval hangover. In Panama they have what they call Carnavalitos - Small Carnavals - these occur after Carnaval in the distant countryside and in the most unexpected places: but can't say where: And you'll never know where to look. Bullshit. Panama is 100 this year: November 3rd.

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