| Torn Between
Two Lovers |
| Thoughts
On San Francisco And Bali |
| By Robin Sparks |
| San Francisco
The gray mist
rises. San Francisco's colors pop out again in the spotlight of a winter
solstice sun. I slip into a crimson batik blouse and my white baggy pants
from India to venture out of my Russian Hill cave for a bite to eat. Strolling
across Washington Park, I watch the dog lovers chucking balls to their
4-legged friends, and the Chinese moving as if through honey doing their
Tai Chi. Across the street at Moose's Restaurant, a waiter is placing another
folded napkin on a linen covered table in preparation for the lunch crowd.
And towering over us all are the majestic twin spires of St. Peters St.
Paul's church, brilliant in the morning sun. |
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San Francisco
looks much as it did when I left almost a year ago - -The Transamerica
pyramid is still an exclamation point in a city that is always celebrating
something, the jumble of Mediterranean style buildings cover North Beach
and climb up Telegraph Hill, Coit Tower rises from its pubic nest of eucalyptus
trees, the crinkled waters of the bay are dotted with white handkerchief
sails, and a large ship, full to the brim with containers is gliding under
the Bay Bridge.
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What was I thinking?
I love it here.
Bali |
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| When I
left Bali two months ago, I thought I 'd found my home on the bucolic,
spiritual, achingly beautiful island where for the price of one year's
mortgage in San Francisco, I could live in lovely home, on a fraction of
what it took to sustain a lesser lifestyle in San Francisco. My plan was
to return to the U.S. just long enough to check in with friends and family,
pay my taxes, sell my condo and car, pack up my remaining things, and get
myself back to Bali. I'd keep a toehold in San Francisco, but it would
be in Bali where I would complete my book and teach creative writing workshops.
Two days
after my return, a bomb blew a hole in Bali taking tourists with it,
and most of the air out of my plans to live and work there. Had I been
naive to think that I, an American, could make my home in the midst of
the world's largest Islamic nation? Expatriate friends in Bali answered
my emails with assurances that in spite of their shock and dismay, they
weren't leaving. |
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| They banded
together with the Balinese to assist the injured and grieving, and when
that task was complete, their focus remained united on bringing normality
back to the island and making it safe for tourists to return. Like a pilot
light, Bali stayed on in my heart. Maybe, I could go back.
Meanwhile paying
the dues required to live in the U.S began to take over the moments of
my life. Income tax deadlines, legal threats from an ex-spouse, calls and
appointments with lawyers, car repairs, Department of Motor Vehicles appointments,
dishwasher repairmen, sorting out bills, the search for affordable health
insurance (which is impossible to get in the U.S. if you're self-employed
and have ever been sick), learning that I could not walk out of my
apartment without spending more in one day than I spent in an entire week
in Asia, and exploring ways to pay for my increased cost of living without
selling my soul.
Bali began
to fade into an abstract dream that got dimmer as the days passed.
While I'd been
gone, my friends in the United States, it seemed, had all become couples. |
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| My business
colleagues were publishing books, teaching workshops, and becoming "known",
while I'd been reduced to a vague blip on their memory screens. In the
tight- knit, quickly changing world of publishing, I'd become one of the
disappeared.
It was clear
I was going to have to log in some serious time in San Francisco if I hoped
to build the career base in the U.S. that would make it possible for me
to live in another country. - at least part of the year. Unless one is
financially independent, the How to Earn a Living factor looms large in
the Where to Live and How to Keep Living There. (Are most expatriates
financially independent or pensioners?)
In addition,
my status as a single woman was beginning to lose its allure. As much as
I'd enjoyed the freedom of being on my own for the past six years, I longed
to be part of a family again. My now non-single girlfriends pointed out
that I was unlikely to find a mate as long as I continued my nomadic lifestyle.
Would I really have to choose between security and adventure? |
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| If I kept
bopping from one expat haven to another, would I be relegated to singlehood
forever? Would finding an intelligent, fun, romantic, gorgeous,
adventurous man, with his financial life in order (the list goes on,
but I'll stop there) require that I stay in one place long enough to
build relationships? A friend of mine, who recently landed herself a Sugar
Daddy, looked frightened when I told her I was thinking of cashing in everything
that I owned to move to Bali. "What will happen when you run out of
money?" she asked. "You might find yourself stuck there growing
old and dying alone," She's right, I thought. But then I remembered
that I was going to have to grow old and die anyway, and there were worse
places than Bali in which to do it.
One day
when I was cleaning a closet in my San Francisco apartment, the Balinese
batiked drawstring bag that I'd carried everywhere on the island surfaced.
I held the soft, incense perfumed cotton bag to my cheek, closed my eyes,
and was back on the island again: Clanging gamelons, croaking frogs, yakking
geckos, melodious birds, kites ornamenting the skies, Made knee deep in
a rice paddy seeing me in my upstairs window and waving, "Hi honey!
You hungry? I make Nasi Goreng!" men lounging in the open air platforms
smoothing the feathers of their pet cocks, Balinese women sauntering gracefully
under offerings atop their heads, taxi drivers calling out, "Transport?"
followed by, "Are you married?" the smell of jasmine,frangipani,
cloves, and incense, festive parades blocking traffic, ruffled umbrellas
tilted over religious icons, temples poking up in the most unlikely places,
jogging in the Hash House Harrier Runs through out-back Indonesia, the
sun low in the sky reflecting off the water between the tiny rice sprigs,
huts with rounded thatched roofs, men bathing together in streams, fresh
off-the-boat grilled tuna every Thursday night at Nuri's, stepping over
tiny palm leaf offerings, wearing only sarongs, sleeveless cotton tops,
flip-flops, and forgetting why I ever wore makeup, leaving the windows
open and never being cold, weaving my motorcycle around ducks and school
children and gridlocked cars, swimming around and around hypnotically in
warm, clear pools, surrounded always by lush gardens with striking batiked
leaves, gold fish ponds, the sound of running water everywhere, and the
tranquility radiated by the locals and the foreigners on the island.
Bali and
San Francisco.
I love them
both.
But I can no
longer afford to live in San Francisco year-round, and I can not afford
to leave it for long periods, for it is in San Francisco where the work
to support the life I want to live, is.
After a 3 month
media sabbatical, I've been disconcerted by the cries of "War! War!"
coming from every television network and by our president who spouts various
renditions of "Retribution against the evildoers!" America, it seems
has gone public with its self-assigned role of sergeant at arms at large.
But most shocking to me is the unquestioning manner in which Americans
are following in lockstep, uncomprehending of any view other than their
own, and unconcerned as the rest of the world looks on in horror. I am
less proud than ever to call myself an American. And less free to say so.
But about the
time I begin to think, "That's it, I am out of here," I'd
find myself adoring San Francisco all over again. One day, for instance,
I was motoring my Alfa Romeo, up steep California Street, top down on a
crisp, bright winter day, tuned into KFog, swerving around cable cars,
limousines, and bicyclists with ease, and slowing down for a peace march.
I pulled into Whole Foods Market where I browsed though miles of aisles
of wine, gourmet cheeses, fresh sushi, daily baked bread, and organic fruits
and vegetables. At the deli counter, I ordered a burrito, where a lengthy
inquisition ensued.
Rotisserie
chicken, beef brisket, or vegetarian? Refried or black beans? White
rice or cilantro? Monterey jack or cheddar? Guacamole, sour cream
or both? Onions? Jalapenos? Spinach or lettuce? Mild or spicy salsa? Whole
wheat or flour tortilla? After collecting the log-sized burrito (at $5.49,
one of San Francisco's few remaining bargains and ladled fresh made saffron
yam bisque into a plastic pint container to take home. I then got into
the checkout queue just in time to hear a tall female cashier announce
to another employee, "You know that new girl Andrea? I tongued her when
I kissed her goodbye at the company party."
I live in San
Francisco, which is not really America, but an island of individualism
and noncomformity - traits once regarded as distinctly and positively American.
When I left
last year, San Francisco was staggering under blows to its major industries,
technology and tourism. But San Francisco, is a city of rushes and busts
and she'll rise again.
Bali too
will bounce back. Tourists will be drawn back into her magical fold,
as they realize that terrorism is random, and the likelihood that it will
occur twice in the same place is slight. The Balinese will continue their
lives of spiritual rituals and celebrations, not that they ever stopped.
So how does
one decide where and when to be an expatriate? Does it take a calamity
or a momentous shift (perhaps an earthquake in my case?) to shake loose
and just go? Is it as simple as, "Just step out the back Jack, make
a new plan Sam, no need to be coy Roy, just set yourself free...?"
Or one can
take a multigrain tortilla, spread on some San Francisco, toss in a handful
of Bali, and sprinkle on some Brazil, roll it up, and eat the whole enchilada? |
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