San Pedro de Atacama
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San Pedro de Atacama
Adventures In The Atacama Desert And The Bolivian Altiplano
By Justin Marshall
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, a beautiful oasis in the middle of the world’s driest desert. So dry that NASA has used the desert to test some of its Mars space equipment.  What happened during our first night in the driest desert in the world?  It rained of course, for the first time since June. It didn’t rain much, nothing measurable anyway, but you know what clouds mean in the desert.  Astonishing sunsets.  With the sky ablaze like a four alarm fire we drove into town. 

Being the eager tourists that we were, we couldn’t get out of the shuttle fast enough to start clicking away.

Brilliant reds, yellows, and oranges, lit up the sky and our skin, perfect for pictures and our arrival to the desert pueblo that boasts adobe buildings, great restaurants, and many an internet cafeé.

After clicking some 25 pictures of the flaming sky, we made our way into town and began looking for a place to sleep.  Hmmm, $7, $6, $5 a night, what would it be?  We settled on the Casa Adobe for $5, where the water is hot, and so is the stinking donkey dung.  What did we care?  Up early, before noon that is, and home late, all we  needed was a bed, and warm water.  Casa Adobe had this. 

Our first adventure took us, along with seemingly every other person in town, to the Valle de la Luna, or Valley of the Moon.  The lunar-esque landscape had various salt formations, canyons, sand dunes, valleys and crevices formed from thousands of yeas of wind, rain, erosion, and terramotos, or earthquakes.  We hiked, climbed, and dug our way, literally on all fours at one point, up the sand dunes.  Jennifer is a great travel partner, one of the few girls I know who can look at the sand dunes and appreciate their true natural beauty.

It was a very special bonding moment for the two of us.  Being the gravity junkies we both are, we took one look at the giant sand dunes and imagined carving down them boards.  Of course if we had had a chance to carve, she would have done it better, faster, and more gracefully than me.  Yes, the lucky lady hails from Park City Utah, and gets more days on her snowboard in one season than I’ve had my whole life.  As of yet we haven’t rented the sand boards that are available, so we haven’t done any carving.  We’ve been too busy touring, trekking, clicking, climbing, and eating.

After another amazing sunset in the Valle de la Luna, which of course gave us the opportunity to take another 25 pictures, we made our way to town and had dinner at Adobe restaurant.  Are you noticing a trend here?  Casa Adobe, Adobe Restaurant, yes, the brown stone buildings dominate the town.

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But not every building looks like it is growing straight out of the ground , nor are they all named the adobe something or other. Some are painted white, with beautiful contrasting blue window sills, and some have colorful Coca-Cola, Nestle, or Kodak signs adorning them.

Our second day we went to the salt flats, the third largest in the world.  Lucky me has now been to two of the world’s three largest salt flats.  How many of you can say that? And where is the second largest?  Try Jennifer’s neighborhood.  Tomorrow I’ll be very close to the World’s largest salt flat when we go to Bolivia.  After visiting the flats we got high, very high.  I’ve been high before, I am from California after all, and as I’ve mentioned, my favorite ski mountain is Mammoth, which is over 11,000 feet tall.  Santa Barbara’s La Cumbre Peak is just a shade under 4000 feet.  Any of you who have driven to the top of La Cumbre, or ridden you bikes as I like to do, can appreciate how high 4000 feet is,  or maybe Lake Tahoe at about 6200, then there’s the Andes where I am now, the tallest mountain range of the Americas, with almost 100 peaks over 18,000 feet.. 

After the salt flat we climbed to some altiplanic lagoons that sat at about 14,000, which was tall enough for Park City Jennifer and I to notice the lack of Oxygen.

Nothing we couldn’t handle, and of course it didn’t stop us from hiking around the sapphire blue lagoons complete with Flamingos and a herd of Llamas. The white Llamas and salt deposits created a brilliant contrast against the sapphire blue lagoons and creamy blue sky, it was tremendous (photos of all of this will be included in the next email, and on the web site after I return to Santiago).

Sunday we felt we deserved a break from all of the trekking. Vacations can be exhausting; don’t you all feel sorry for me? We decided to visit the local, very spectacular hot springs. After a bumpy, dusty hour of  climbing up a dirt road to the hot springs. 

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Jennifer and I found ourselves doing the NY speed walk down to the turquoise pools, each complete with a private deck.  She and I had our own turquoise pool and deck for our entire visit. There was also another empty pool and deck, this one deep enough to dive in, that we visited between naps and dips in the temperate waters. With the heat of the day steaming hot springs would have been too much, so as luck would have it the pools are perfectly warm, slightly cooler than bath water, and each pool has a gushing waterfall cascading into and out of it, thus making the naps that much better. Nothing beats falling asleep to the rushing water.

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