There’s a mingling of nationalities here, but not much genuine interaction between Emiratis and foreigners. The locals tend to keep to themselves.  This is another drawback.  Many people leave Dubai without ever getting to know the Emiratis. Judgments are often based on assumptions and generalizations.  The U.A.E. is a young nation, federated in 1971, and a wealthy one.  Many Emiratis don’t have to work (they receive oil profits).  Many drive luxury cars, live in huge houses, and shop at Tiffany and Chanel.  People see this and wrongly assume that all Emiratis are wealthy, but they’re not.

There is a lot of money in Dubai, apparent in the beautifully landscaped public areas (everything’s green year-round), the constant new construction and the extraordinary number of luxury cars on the road.  Expats also reap the benefits with packages unheard of elsewhere (high salaries tax-free, annual plane tickets home, free housing in villas or luxury apartments, furniture allowance).  Dubai is the Middle East’s best-kept secret.  Many Americans have never even heard of Dubai.  When we have visitors they’re usually surprised.  All the preconceptions and misconceptions about the Middle East disappear when they see just how modern, liberal and progressive Dubai is.

It offers an easy lifestyle, especially for people with children.  Dubai is a child-friendly city with numerous parks and play places (indoor fun centers great during the hot months), excellent schools, carnivals, and year-round water sports.  The people here love children and are extremely tolerant of them.  Domestic help is ridiculously cheap by U.S. standards, so a great many families employ live-in or part-time maids and nannies.

Dubai is also a very safe place.  Crime is low.  You never hear about muggings or random violent crimes.  The U.A.E. seems to be a fairly neutral place politically.  It manages to be pro-Palestinian and pro-Arab without being anti-American.  Demonstrations are rare.  Even after 9/11, and with the current situation in Iraq, there’s little anti-American sentiment here.  Regardless of what’s happening around the world, Dubai seems to follow its own course.   I feel safe here, safer than I would in the U.S.

These perks, the international population, and the location (close to Europe, the Far East and Africa: perfect for travel) make Dubai a great place to live.  We’re just finishing our contract here—my husband teaches for an Emirati university—and have signed another.  We agree that we like Dubai, but not forever.  My oldest daughter will start school in the fall, so we’re committed to staying at least one more year.  After that, who knows?  The world’s a big place and we have so much more to explore.

Tourist Info:

When to Visit: 

November through April is best with temperatures in the 70s and 80s.  The rest of the year temperatures rarely drop below 100 during the day.  The summer months are unbearably hot and humid.

Where to Stay: 

If you like the beach and can afford it, The Burj Al Arab—the  world’s only 7-star hotel where every room is a duplex suite  with private butler—is beyond comparison.  Its partner, The Jumeirah Beach Hotel, is almost as posh but not quite as  pricey.  There are a string of hotels on the beach in Mina Al  Seyahi, farther from the center of things, but this means a more  expensive taxi ride and more time in transit.  The hotels on the  creek in Deira—The Intercontinental, Hilton Dubai Creek,  Sheraton, Hyatt—are also nice.  These have the advantage of being closer to the souks and in a livelier part of the city.  Most  have free shuttle service to the beach, which is about twenty  minutes away. 

Where to Eat: 

For the most part, only restaurants in hotels serve alcohol.  A  non-Muslim resident can get a liquor license to purchase  alcohol for home use. Among restaurants, there’s so much  variety, that it’ll be hard to choose.  Some of my favorites  include:

La Parilla: Argentinean, atop The Jumeirah Beach Hotel; great  steaks and nightly dance/music show.

Focaccia: Italian/Mediterranean, at the Hyatt in Deira.

The Noodle House: Pan-Asian in The Emirates Towers  (Boulevard tower).

The 51st Floor: Bar atop The Emirates Towers (hotel tower);  superb cocktails, bar snacks and view.

Mazazeek: Arabic, atop The Dubai World Trade Centre;  shisha, alcohol, traditional music, and an incredible view.

Kitchen: Indian, in Satwa behind Hardees on Al Dhiyafa St.; great cheap food, don’t be fooled by the lack of customers.

Fatafeet: Egyptian, in Bur Dubai on the Creek; shisha but no alcohol.

Keep in mind that there are innumerable good, inexpensive Arabic and Indian restaurants throughout the city.
 

What to Do/See: 

Jumeirah Mosque: Tours on Sun. and Thurs. at 10:00 am.

Jumeirah Beach: Across from the mosque, a block from Starbucks.

Dubai Museum: Housed in an old fort; exhibits and information on Dubai.

Wild Wadi:Elaborate water park next to the Jumeirah Beach Hotel.

Children’s City: Hands-on learning center.

Dubai Zoo: Small and gritty, in Jumeirah, one of the few places that hasn’t been gentrified (yet).

Gold Souk: Area in Deira with stores and covered jewelry shops.  There are other souks as well (textile, fruit/vegetable, spice, etc.).  Remember to bargain.

The Blue Souk:  Covered souk in Sharjah (the Emirate to the north); great place to buy carpets

Desert Safari: Several tour operators run these trips into the desert that include dune-bashing in SUV’s, visit to a camel farm, Bedouin-style dinner, shisha, belly dancing, and henna for women.

Dhow Cruise: These large wooden traditional boats offer lunch and dinner cruises up the Creek; cheaper and maybe more fun to hire an abra for half an hour

Sports: Nearly every warm-weather sport or activity is available here from snorkeling and parasailing to archery and quad biking.

Spas: Too numerous to count; these are everywhere, offering every conceivable way to pamper yourself; Cleopatra’s at Wafi is the most famous and luxurious

How to Get Here: 

Malaysian Airlines has direct flights from Newark.  Emirates Airlines is supposed to start direct service to the U.S. and Canada in 2003.  Most European carriers fly here.  British Airways seems to have the shortest layover, although it’s one of the more expensive carriers.

Visit visas can be obtained on arrival at the airport.  Residence visas are arranged through your employer.

How to Get Around: 

Taxis are plentiful, fairly inexpensive, and reliable.  The tan Dubai Transport taxis are clean and they have seatbelts. Renting a car isn’t really worth the hassle and public transportation, although it exists, isn’t widespread or easy.

Events: 

Dubai World Cup Horse Race: The world’s largest purse, but no betting. 

Dubai Desert Classic Golf Tournament

Dubai Shopping Festival:  Annual event with major sales, shows, and prizes.  Carnival rides are set up in various parts of the city.  The Global Village—open only during Shopping Festival—draws  vendors from around the world.

Dubai Rugby 7s Tournament: This weekend event draws teams from around the world along with serious rugby fans.

Literature: 

The Dubai Explorer: Guidebook for tourists and residents that’s available through Amazon.  It includes “settling in” information as well as restaurant reviews and local maps. 

Time Out: Monthly magazine that offers unbiased restaurant reviews and lists upcoming specials, concerts, etc.

Gulf News & Khaleej Times: English-language newspapers

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