Being In Baja - Baja
California Sur - The East Cape-Vinorama
Being
In Baja
Baja
California Sur - The East Cape-Vinorama
By Joan Hafenecker
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Retire
In Mexico - Live Better For Less -
While there are some people who come to Mexico for a week’s vacation and
end up living here for the next twenty years, most people adopt a more
prudent course and do some homework first. Dru Pearson is a person
who did her homework and she is someone who knows about retirement in Mexico.
While there may be a few expatriates scattered in a dozen villages throughout
Mexico, most Americans and Canadians settle in one of five locations:
San Miguel de Allende, Mazatlan, Oaxaca, Guadalajara, or Lake Chapala.
Dru Pearson visited all these areas before settling in Lake Chapala. Dru
gives sound and thoughtful advice on retirement in Mexico. Everything from
how to pick your location to Mexican paperwork is covered. If you've
ever considered retirement in Mexico please read this report first. It
has the information that would otherwise take you months of frustration
to acquire. Click
Here for details - |
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day
I opened my eyes and started thinking about retirement. It was 1995
and I was 45 and for the first time I had money to invest in something
other than my home. I knew I was getting a late start and that would
have to jump in with both feet. My anniversary was coming up and we hadn’t
traveled in a long time because we had two kids in college. We booked a
trip to the Los Cabos area of Baja, all the way down at the tip of the
peninsula. I had traveled in the northern region 20 years prior,
had taken the ferry over from mainland to Santa Rosalia, around halfway
down the peninsula on the Sea of Cortez. From there we drove north
and I had never had another opportunity to see Baja Sur. Baja is a gorgeous
peninsula; 1000 mile long desert separating two oceans, The Pacific and
the Sea of Cortez, creating 3000 miles of coastline.
Living in California
made it possible to go to Cabo for a long weekend. Our first visit
was spent in Cabo San Lucas, where the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortez
meet at the Arch, a landmark rock formation. The breeze, sunlight and clean
air arouse the senses and create a kind of euphoria that is hard to describe.
The warm breezes move through you and around you as in a gentle touch or
caress. It’s very romantic, and invigorating, makes you
want to be healthy. There are so many fabulous beaches to walk on. |
| Visit Joan Hafenecker's website
to find out more about real estate in Vinorama - Click
Here ~ |
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Though Cabo
San Lucas is a happening town for me it was a bit too chaotic. The next
day we drove 20 miles north to San Jose del Cabo, just south of the Los
Cabos Airport to check it out. The guidebooks and advertising claimed that
San Jose del Cabo was a more traditional Mexican town, quiet, with fountains
in the middle of town, and a lovely old church. We loved the town and decided
to spend our time discovering what San Jose had to offer. The town
is abundant with romantic courtyard restaurants with growing vines and
blowing fans to add to the tropical ambience. We liked San Jose del Cabo
enough that we drove up each day, each time venturing in a different direction
to get a sense of it. I began browsing the Real Estate listings immediately.
My mind reeling with ideas, I returned home, realizing my life had changed
and there was no turning back. When we returned home, we booked our next
visit 2 months later. I started researching real estate on the Internet,
and entertaining ideas of how I could make a go of it there. I know
it sounds crazy but there is something in the atmosphere here that opens
up your mind (thinking outside the box) and allows the most amazing ideas
to channel through you. Like many other Americans, I felt the playing
field to be endless
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| There were many legends on the
mainland Mexico of the Baja peninsula. Gold and pearls were controlled
by Amazon women , men were used only for procreation. At the time it was
thought to be an island. After Hernan Cortez conquered Mexico, he set out
to conquer this famed island. In 1533 one of two ships sent out by Cortez,
accidentally discovered the Baja peninsula and they returned with tales
of handfuls of pearls. |
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Upon
our return 2 months later, my agenda was to familiarize myself with the
communities or colonies in San Jose del Cabo, and to find an inexpensive
lot to build a house on. My son was in architecture school and I
had been a decorator by trade so it would be easy for us to design a home.
I found an inexpensive lot in a nice neighborhood with all conveniences
in walking distance yet outside of the central area of town with lovely
views of the Estuary and miles of coastline. The paperwork was a
snap; I had help from the fluent realtor. We built in 7 months, a
house with pool and Jacuzzi and we were in by Christmas. This small
investment of time and money doubled in value over 5 years.
While the house
was being built I traveled back and forth enough to feel that I was born
for this lifestyle. Travelling with laptop and cell phone I could
communicate and annoy my employees from anywhere, the beach or poolside.
I started having my bookkeeper download my check register every few days
and I almost never had to go home. As soon as the house was built
I got online and started listing the house as a vacation rental.
Though it wasn’t on the beach, the pool and Jacuzzi were good selling points.
This is one of the easiest businesses to get into; you just need someone
to keep the house up while you are gone. In a world of property management
companies this is also easily accomplished. Houses on the golf courses
and beach rent for quite a bit of money and there are people here making
hundreds of thousands a year on rentals alone. Vacation rentals
is just one of the things you can do with your house, another is vacation
rental exchanges around the world. A couple of years ago I exchanged
for 3 weeks with an Italian family and had a fantastic opportunity to live
and explore regions of northern Italy. |
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The house
also gave me a home office to work out of and to start conceptualizing
my new business. It would seem that many of the Americans and Canadians
here were in real estate from one angle or another. Others had restaurants
or provided other gringo services; importing and exporting. I really
liked the rentals because it was easy money and no work, how great is that?
While we were
building we had driven out to the East Cape a couple of times and found
the quiet and remote beaches to be very serene. I started thinking
that it would be nice to develop some beachfront there and have some vacation
rentals to manage possibly a small tienda and café.
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| Why
the East Cape?
The East Cape
is the furthest eastern section of Baja, up the coast from San Jose del
Cabo on the Sea of Cortez. The section that I grew most interested
in is 20 miles out of town, 50 minutes if you go straight across the desert
from the airport. This drive across the desert sets the stage
for the new lifestyle, in your big 4x4 with Baja lift and off-road tires,
you traverse the desert. On this road you drive by the Sierra la
Laguna Mountains that run from north to south like a spine down the middle
of the most southern region of the peninsula. These mountains reach an
elevation of 7000’ feet in the area of Miraflores, and then plunge to the
sea. I prefer to drive this road because it is the direct route and
the desert road we are going to take is captivating with indigenous plants,
varieties of cactus, desert trees and shrubs blooming alternating throughout
the year.
The wildlife
on this journey that you are likely to see are wild horses, burros and
cows with their babies, and so many birds: Caracaras, Ravens, Cardinals,
Doves, Egret, Heron, and Road Runners. There’s the backdrop of the
mountains, the fauna and flora, and then when you come around the bend
and see the ocean for the first time as a backdrop to acres of large old
cactus, oh, my, god. As a grand finale to the drive, “where the desert
meets the sea”, Boca de Vinorama.
Vinorama,
a small self-sufficient community using solar energy, wells and desalinaters,
satellite Internet and cell phones, far from the maddening crowd. Considered
to be within the Tropic of Cancer, the East Cape climate is an arid and
tropical mix. |
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The life style
of this region is very rich with recreational activities; the most significant
is surfing “Punta Perfecta”. The southern swells come starting around April
and stay through summer, the biggest waves comes with the hurricanes.
On windy days you’ll see someone windsurfing, on the calm days kayaking,
and most days there are fisherman fishing right off the beach. There are
oyster divers and tales of underwater caves full of lobster; the leatherback
turtles even come here to lay their eggs.
Since the Sea
of Cortez is the most food rich ocean of the world and supports the largest
number of sea creatures, eight hundred varieties of fish, seven varieties
of whale, leatherback turtles, dolphins, manta ray, sea lions. In
the winter, January through March the Gray Whales arrive in these coves
on their journey north to the lagoons to calve. They back by
the East Cape on their way back to Alaska. This journey from the
Bering Straight to Baja and back is the longest migration of any mammal
known to man. When the whales are present, they are the main attraction.
I’ve had a
couple of extraordinary whale days there: one day I stepped out of the
car and looked to the water just on time to see a baby whale swimming through
the crystal clear curl of a wave headed out to sea with it’s flippers extended
like wings. The next time I looked that same whale was rolling around
10’ offshore, wallowing in the ocean bottom. Upon research I found
that the gray whale is a bottom feeder, the only whale in that species.
Eventually, this grand creature disappeared into the surf.
On another
day at the end of March or this year, it was the end of whale season, and
there were whales everywhere. My friends the Microbrewers were visiting
and we were standing on the edge of a cliff watching the whales jump and
play, it was so quiet that day that you could hear them breathe and the
sound of their slapping tales. We watched them for hours and when
the sun started to set and as the sky turned layers of pink and blue and
the water the color of champagne you could see a pod of whales skipping
along the horizon. We stood there in a deep silence, like we’d had
a spiritual experience. We were awe struck and speechless, we got
in the car and drove down the coast with the full moon beaming on the ocean,
silently and at some level of inner peace that you rarely get to.
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| One of the most memorable characters
that made his way to Baja was William Walker, the famous American Filibuster.
Walker tried to take part of Baja from Mexico and turn it into the Republic
of Lower California in 1853. Walker studied medicine in France, England,
Germany and was present during the European Revolutions of 1848. He was
from Tennesse and would eventually become President of Nicaragua in 1855 |
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The nights
on the East Cape quite spectacular; the stars form a dome in the sky that
goes from the horizon line over to the mountains in the back ground. What’s
even more amazing about these stars is that they actually twinkle.
It gets very quiet there so quiet that sometimes a couple of Hermit Crabs
will come to visit. In June, you can sit on the beach in the dark
and watch the Leatherback turtles lay their eggs. My neighbor has
actually helped the baby turtles get out to sea.
So taken with
this area, was I, that this is where I decided to start my next project.
I looked for a piece of property with beachfront and road frontage for
commercial and residential development. I found an 8-acre piece and began
incorporating, and filing for my resale license and my immigration permits
(green card/FM3). Over the course of three years we have been developing
this property into residential and commercial lots. The infrastructure,
water, septic, & beach access are now in place and it’s time to start
building those businesses. The goal is to make this development into
a gathering place, like a community center. A place to sit and read,
have a drink with friends, celebrate happy occasions, etc.
My job here
is very difficult, my days on the property are spent in the hammock watching
the ocean, or riding the ATV around the property. My office days
are spent on the couch with my laptop, pool and Jacuzzi standing by at
all times.
So let’s review
why the Los Cabos area and more specifically the East Cape make great destinations
for vacation, retirement or for just an investment.
For a vacation
the Sea of Cortez has everything to offer, fishing, diving, snorkeling,
surfing, whale watching. The language is no longer a barrier, for
the businessperson or the traveler. The service businesses are all geared
toward the English-speaking visitors; you can get your American newspapers
and also local American papers. Shopping can be done with the gringo
buck or pesos. Banking has become much easier and less risky because
Americans have dollars accounts and the dollars are sitting there in a
vault where you left them.
The exchange
rate right now is very good for the American, 10+ pesos to the dollar.
There is now a huge selection of American products, imported meats, pasta’s,
imported cheeses, locally grown organic vegetables, tofu and soymilk.
There is literally something for everyone.
Of course one
of the greatest things about this area is the ease of getting here.
You can drive here from the US, you can ferry over from the mainland, or
you can fly from anywhere in the world. Airfares from the East Coast
have gotten very competitive, as low as $329 roundtrip from JFK to Los
Cabos Airport. That’s the same price as San Francisco to Los Cabos.
Los Cabos is
not just a great area for the retiree, but is also a wonderful area to
raise American children; they learn another language and culture, currency
and exchange rates. The entire area is a course or several courses
in marine biology. The weather is so fabulous that, here’s the kicker,
the kids stay outside all day. The area is also safe for children
and for woman, with very few violent crimes reported. I feel perfectly
comfortable in my home, with my family being in the US all the time.
I also feel extremely safe while sleeping in my RV on the beach on the
East Cape. Americans really need to feel safe now a day and this
is a great place to have that feeling.
One thing that
should not go unmentioned is the charisma of the Mexicans that live in
this area, helpful, hard working people. They don’t seem to mind
sharing their paradise with us and enjoy some of the cultural contributions;
we’ve made, like foods for instance. I’ve noticed in the last year
that there has been a tremendous push to learn our language here.
I’m sure the push was due to the effects of 9-11, followed by Hurricane
Juliet, and then compounded by the complete loss of tourism to the aftermath
of 9-11. It took Baja a long time to come back from that.
Or maybe it was the local’s way of preparing for the APEC conference that
took place here last month.
In closing
I’d like to say that I could go on forever about this area, and have.
The beauty of the ocean, clean fresh air, fantastic food especially the
fish, never ending recreation and seemingly endless opportunities.
If you think you need a new life, this one is very easy to wrap your mind
around. Just put your office in your briefcase with a pair of shorts
a toothbrush and your binoculars and you are ready for the Los Cabos experience.
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