Adventures
in Chinese Gourmet: Who Knows What You may be Eating
by Eva Lynne
Zhuhai, Guangdong
Province
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| “Thank
you, it's so good! What IS this? I’ve been trying to guess."
“Beef brain,"
came her reply like the thud of a brick falling off a rooftop. Silence
settled over the room and I suppose my face gave me away. But, although
I was surprised, I liked it!
In February
of 2001, I had received an invitation to dine with my friend Ruby, a student,
and her twelve year-old son Tony for a most special meal. The day before
Chinese New Year is a special family day and I was invited to participate.
“What a treat!" I thought. I was ever so curious about Chinese homes and
customs, and how they might celebrate the New Year. This was a unique chance
to have my own authentic cultural lesson—all up close and personal.
 I
had come to Zhuhai, Guangdong Province, People's Republic of China the
previous November and already it was February. Three months had flown by.
I had begun teaching ESL at Gateway Language Village in their innovative
Total Immersion English (TIE) program, and I had managed to put the finishing
touches on my basic apartment and settle right in. Christmas had come and
gone with little fanfare, and the biggest holiday of the entire Chinese
culture was upon us. Children were enjoying the annual three-week break
from school, and the largest movement of people at one time on the earth
was taking place as scads of travelers returned to their hometowns and
villages for family celebrations. Nightly, fruit markets lined with tiny
white lights seemed to pop up out of nowhere and shops were adorned with
seasonal mandarin orange trees. Merchants, hoping to make a little cash
before the holiday, had spread blankets on the sidewalks after shop hours
hoping to sell just a little extra to late night passers by.
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 Eva
Lynne is an ESL teacher in the People's Republic of China. She'd dreamed
of coming to China to teach since her early teens. She is an accomplished
classical cellist and her favorite composers are Dvorak and Smetana.
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Festivity was
in the air.
| Beef brain
was my first introduction to Cantonese cuisine. As I shared this interesting
experience with my colleagues at GLV I was told that in Guangdong (formerly
Canton) they have a saying. “ln Cantonese cooking, everything with four
legs is edible except the table". In my newness I had yet to learn how
to read a Chinesewritten menu. GLV had translated menus from a few local
restaurants into English, so I always ate at those specific places and
chose from those menus. In the translation process they managed to leave
out several dishes that they felt might be objectionable to a Western customer,
so I never read a proper menu until l took my Chinese teaching assistant,
Joan, out to eat. |
chongquig hotpot
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As she translated
the menu to me the revelation was astounding. I learned that sugarcane
rat is a local delicacy and people brag about their family recipe. I have
seen snake, silkworm, beetle, dog, and spiced donkey all on one menu. Pig
entrails and fish heads with rice are some of the most common foods eaten.
I had had no idea. In America I only worried about what might be in a hot
dog.
| Later I learned
that Zhuhai is a little like a melting pot. Twenty years ago, it was only
a small fishing village, but when it was declared a Special Economic Zone,
it suddenly became a much desired residential destination of choice for
those wishing to better their economic prospects. Nearly everyone who lives
in Zhuhai hails from some other part of China.
For this reason
there are many different kinds of Chinese cuisine available: Northern Chinese
food, Mongolian barbecue, Northwestern, Sichuan, Hunan, Taiwanese, and
more. |
fried
dumplings (pot stickers)
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One morning,
shortly after I arrived in China, I decided to venture out for a walk just
to see what I could see. As I passed a noodle shop the aroma wafting forth
overcame me and I realized that I was truly famished. I took a seat at
a table close to the front of the small shop, and a kindly gentleman promptly
handed me a menu. Opening the menu I quickly realized I was at an impasse.
There were two columns of neatly listed Chinese characters and I had no
clue what they indicated. I laughed to myself, and when the waiter came
back to see what I might want to eat; I simply pointed to something at
random. He nodded knowingly and then disappeared into the kitchen.
| In short order,
a steaming bowl of Guilin noodle soup was placed in front of me, and the
aroma was divine. I could see thick white rice noodles and vegetables with
small pieces of pork and beef floating on top. Looking around for utensils,
I spotted pairs of wooden chopsticks sticking out of a glass. Finally,
I was ready, and into the soup went the chopsticks. After a few moments
negotiating a very difficult noodle, I was at last able to lift a much-anticipated
mouthful to my lips, and … my eyes bulged … my eyes watered ... my mouth
was on fire! |
lotus leaf bundle
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Lordy, was
it ever spicy!
I motioned
to the waiter to bring me something to drink and washed it all down with
water as quickly as possible. Glancing cautiously into my bowl again, it
occurred to me that thousands, maybe even millions of people ate this for
breakfast every day, but both the waiter and I knew that on this particular
day that number would not include me. The waiter packed up the remaining
soup and I gave it to a homeless man on the way back to my apartment. Much
later I was delighted to learn you can order the same delicious soup without
the chili oil.
| This memorable
experience generated an important conversation with my teaching assistant
in which she thoughtfully educated me on several of the main cuisines of
China. Each region has its own cooking style and specialty dishes. Hunan
cooking is traditionally full of flavor and very spicy, as is Sichuan.
Spice and hot peppers are not limited to these regional types of cooking,
but it is the rule rather than the exception, so I watch carefully now
when ordering.
Mongolia is
known for it's barbecues. A Mongolian barbecue restaurant can be a lot
of fun. Northwestern China borders with Pakistan and boasts a decidedly
Muslim influence in it's cooking style. Lamb and vegetable dishes are delicious
and highly recommended. My favorite style of cooking has turned out to
be Northern Chinese food. A big plate of steamed or fried dumplings (pot
stickers ), corn cake with sesame seeds, steamed BBQ pork buns, tofu skin,
barbecued mutton, and candied sweet potatoes are among my favorites. |
chashu
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Whatever your
taste in food, the varied and unique cuisine of China offers something
for everyone. I would encourage you to try them all at least once. Who
knows what you may find yourself eating? The adventure is well worth the
experience. Just remember one simple rule: never ask what it is…
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