Being
In Bali ~ Page Two
Looking At The Expatriate
Scene In Bali ~ By Robin Sparks
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| I ask Jim about the
business climate in Bali.
"The Balinese have lived in a communal
society for 10,000 years or so and they share what they earn. If someone
new comes along and does well, there's a lot of jealousy. They have a different
ethic than I have and it's hard for me to adjust to it sometimes. A contract
has some validity, but still what can you do if they decide not to honor
it? Take them to court and sue them? Indonesia has the most corrupt justice
system in Asia. Whoever pays the most wins. It's a risk you take and you
accept the rules the way they are here, or you don't come."
"What type of expatriates do best
it in Bali?"
"Those who are open to whatever experience
comes to them and trust in the universe that whatever happens will be in
their best benefit. I'm not afraid of losing anything because I've already
lost it all. If you can give up control and expectations and fear, then
you can make it in Bali."
"What's the worst thing about living
in Bali?"
"I miss the cultural things like
theatre groups."
"The best?"
"How very comfortable it is here.
When I start to get discouraged about the difficulty of doing business
in Bali, I remember what it was really like in the U.S. - the constant
threat of legal action for one thing." |
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"I am grateful for the good experiences
and the bad ones I've had in Bali. I was able to rebuild my life. I have
remarried, I have a beautiful home and servants, and I am working again
helping others to heal."
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Elliot, in his 60's,
Exporter, from U.S.
A number of expatriates can be found
on Thursday nights at Nuri's ( a cafe owned by expatriate Brian, from New
York) for fresh tuna night. That is where I meet Elliot, a robust southern
gentleman from South Carolina. I ask Elliot how he came to be in Bali.
He says, "I got a divorce and there was a big 'ole hurricane. I cashed
out and gave away everything else. A friend living in Guam at that
time told me there were no Rent-A-Wreck companies there so I bought 45
used automobiles and started a used car rental business. It did great.
Then a typhoon came along and blew all the cars into the ocean. I used
to come to Bali with my girlfriend. I started buying things and then a
few extra things to sell. They'd be snatched up in a few hours. So I began
exporting furniture out of Bali to Guam. When Guam was full of teak furniture,
I struck up a deal with a furniture wholesaler in South Carolina and started
shipping to him. That's what I do today. I own nothing except for my business,
and that's the way I like it." |
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Tony, in his 50's, retired,
from Australia
Tony, a Hemingwayesque father of
5 children, moved to Bali three years ago after a divorce. He has just
bought 42 era on the side of a mountain. "Living there will give me the
isolation I love," he says. "It's a stunningly beautiful piece of land,
very spiritual. From the top you can see the volcano and the ocean." He
bought the land under a lease agreement with the owner for 110,000,000
rupiah ($11,000) and plans to build a house for under $30,000 U.S. He says,
"People back home have no idea they can live in Paradise for so little."
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Theo Zantman, 50-years
old, artist, from Holland
Theo came to Bali in 1970 after
living in Tunisia for several years. "When I arrived in Bali, I felt at
home immediately, as if I had come to visit my
grandmother." he says.
Theo paints every day in his studio,
which is located in the old art center, Penestanan. Theo's art is in galleries
all over the world including a permanent exhibition in Belgium where his
son manages his business.
He says. "Bali has a spiritual energy
that is found in few other places on the planet - it is in fact one of
the chakra points of mother earth." |
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Bali's Shadow
A three-dimensional portrait contains
shadow and light. The Balinese understand this concept well - the religious
offerings which are such an integral part of their lives, are made to the
bad gods as well as the good. Even paradise has its dark side.
Harassment by hawkers on the beaches
of Bali -"Sarong? Madam want beautiful sarong?" "Bali Boy? Only $20!" -
is relentless. Even in Ubud, you can't walk through town without being
assaulted by locals trying to sell you everything from"transport" to paintings.
I am told that this is a relatively new phenomenon and only occurs in the
tourist centers; that in the villages, people are still content to make
a living off the land.
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But it goes beyond pushy
street vendors. Stealing and home robberies are commonplace in Bali, although,
thankfully, physical violence is not. If you leave a personal item (like
the sunglasses I "lost" at the medicine man's house), it is highly doubtful
anyone is going to say, "Excuse me maam, but you left your...." My explanation
is that in a society where everything is shared, the lack of a boundary
between yours and mine, means that everything is up for grabs.
Lack of privacy is another issue
that I as a westerner find difficult here. Bali's communal lifestyle means
everything is shared including time and space. The nice thing about this
is that my neighbors watch my back, but on the other hand, I cannot work
at home uninterrupted. When I leave (usually to "hide out" at a cafe),
everyone I pass on my way out of the neighborhood says, "Miss Robin, where
you go?" |
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I mentioned corruption earlier in
this story. in some ways it can be a good thing. It's easier, for instance,
to simply hand a policeman a few bucks if you are stopped than to go through
the hassle of receiving a ticket and all that that entails. It's also more
convenient in many cases to pay someone off than to wade through the mountains
of regulations required in most countries to get anything done. (Building
permits for example) The negative side to this is that the Balinese see
foreigners as bottomless sources of income and their efforts to profit
from them are creative and persistent.
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| Clock is Ticking...
After three months, Bali is still
best. I will return in January, during the rainy season to be sure.
Next week I will go home to reconnect with loved ones and to tie into a
slipknot, the loose ends which need to be secured before I make the move.
I have begun the process of exploring
ways to earn my keep in Paradise. As a writer, thanks to the Internet,
I can work anywhere on the planet where there is an electrical outlet and
a telephone line. I will finish my book about expatriate havens. (Look
for it this time next year!) And I will offer creative writing workshops
in Bali. |
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I may have found my place in the
sun, but I'll continue to check out expatriate havens in South Africa,
Cambodia, Brazil, and beyond - and I will share my findings with you.
Thanks to all of you for your emails
of encouragement and for hanging with me on this journey of self and geographical
exploration. It is you, the readers, who have fueled the adventure. And
so, for now anyway, I will keep one toe in the U.S., and move the rest
of me to Bali.
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
http://www.expat.or.id
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A great source of practical information
for expats in Indonesia
http://www.strangerinparadise.com
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Entertaining reading about expat
life in Bali
All of the following are lcated
in Ubud, Bali:
Cendana Resort & Spa
Dr. Jim Taylor
www.healthresortsbali.com
62-81-239-27826
Made's Warung
"Best Food In Ubud" (and a great
place to find houses for rent in the rice paddies)
Br. Penestanan Kaja
62-361-977885
PT Bali Kreasi Bisnis
"We create, develop and maintain
your business." Highway Internet Cafe
highwaybali@hotmail.cm
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Tel. 62-361-972107
Fax 62-361-972106
Taman Rahasia
"The Secret Garden" Boutique Resort
Spa & Restaurant
www.balisecretgarden.cm
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Email: info@balisecretgarden.com
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phone: 62-361-979-395
Theo Zantman
www.theozantman.com
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