Being In Bali - Looking At The Expatriate Scene In Bali ~ By Robin Sparks
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Being In Bali ~ Page Two
Looking At The Expatriate Scene In Bali 
By Robin Sparks
I ask Jim about the business climate in Bali.

"The Balinese have lived in a communal society for 10,000 years or so and they share what they earn. If someone new comes along and does well, there's a lot of jealousy. They have a different ethic than I have and it's hard for me to adjust to it sometimes. A contract has some validity, but still what can you do if they decide not to honor it? Take them to court and sue them? Indonesia has the most corrupt justice system in Asia. Whoever pays the most wins. It's a risk you take and you accept the rules the way they are here, or you don't come."

"What type of expatriates do best it in Bali?"

"Those who are open to whatever experience comes to them and trust in the universe that whatever happens will be in their best benefit. I'm not afraid of losing anything because I've already lost it all. If you can give up control and expectations and fear, then you can make it in Bali."
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"What's the worst thing about living in Bali?"

"I miss the cultural things like theatre groups."

"The best?"

"How very comfortable it is here. When I start to get discouraged about the difficulty of doing business in Bali, I remember what it was really like in the U.S. - the constant threat of legal action for one thing."

"I am grateful for the good experiences and the bad ones I've had in Bali. I was able to rebuild my life. I have remarried, I have a beautiful home and servants, and I am working again helping others to heal."

Elliot, in his 60's, Exporter, from U.S.
A number of expatriates can be found on Thursday nights at Nuri's ( a cafe owned by expatriate Brian, from New York) for fresh tuna night. That is where I meet Elliot, a robust southern gentleman from South Carolina. I ask Elliot how he came to be in Bali. He says, "I got a divorce and there was a big 'ole hurricane.

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Bali is an island of mystery and magic and tourists see only what´s on the surface and are never allowed to look behind the scenes.
I cashed out and gave away  everything else. A friend living in Guam at that time told me there were no Rent-A-Wreck companies there so I bought 45 used automobiles and started a used car rental business. It did great. Then a typhoon came along and blew all the cars into the ocean. I used to come to Bali with my girlfriend. I started buying things and then a few extra things to sell. They'd be snatched up in a few hours. So I began exporting furniture out of Bali to Guam. When Guam was full of teak furniture, I struck up a deal with a furniture wholesaler in South Carolina and started shipping to him. That's what I do today. I own nothing except for my business, and that's the way I like it."

Tony, in his  50's, retired, from Australia
Tony, a Hemingwayesque father of 5 children, moved to Bali three years ago after a divorce. He has just bought 42 era on the side of a mountain. "Living there will give me the isolation I love," he says. "It's a stunningly beautiful piece of land, very spiritual. From the top you can see the volcano and the ocean." He bought the land under a lease agreement with the owner for 110,000,000 rupiah ($11,000) and plans to build a house for under $30,000 U.S.

He says, "People back home have no idea they can live in Paradise for so little."

Theo Zantman, 50-years old, artist, from Holland
Theo came to Bali in 1970 after living in Tunisia for several years. "When I arrived in Bali, I felt at home immediately, as if I had come to visit my grandmother." he says. Theo paints every day in his studio, which is located in the old art center, Penestanan. Theo's art is in galleries all over the world including a permanent exhibition in Belgium where his son manages his business.

He says. "Bali has a spiritual energy that is found in few other places on the planet - it is in fact one of the chakra points of mother earth."

Bali's Shadow
A three-dimensional portrait contains shadow and light.

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The Balinese understand this concept well - the religious offerings which are such an integral part of their lives, are made to the bad gods as well as the good.  Even paradise has its dark side.

Harassment by hawkers on the beaches of Bali -"Sarong? Madam want beautiful sarong?" "Bali Boy? Only $20!" - is relentless. Even in Ubud, you can't walk through town without being assaulted by locals trying to sell you everything from"transport" to paintings.  I am told that this is a relatively new phenomenon and only occurs in the tourist centers; that in the villages, people are still content to make a living off the land.

But it goes beyond pushy street vendors. Stealing and home robberies are commonplace in Bali, although, thankfully, physical violence is not. If you leave a personal item (like the sunglasses I "lost" at the medicine man's house), it is highly doubtful anyone is going to say, "Excuse me maam, but you left your...." My explanation is that in a society where everything is shared, the lack of a boundary between yours and mine, means that everything is up for grabs.

Lack of privacy is another issue that I as a westerner find difficult here. Bali's communal lifestyle means everything is shared including time and space. The nice thing about this is that my neighbors watch my back, but on the other hand, I cannot work at home uninterrupted. When I leave (usually to "hide out" at a cafe), everyone I pass on my way out of the neighborhood says, "Miss Robin, where you go?"

I mentioned corruption earlier in this story. in some ways it can be a good thing. It's easier, for instance, to simply hand a policeman a few bucks if you are stopped than to go through the hassle of receiving a ticket and all that that entails. It's also more convenient in many cases to pay someone off than to wade through the mountains of regulations required in most countries to get anything done. (Building permits for example) The negative side to this is that the Balinese see foreigners as bottomless sources of income and their efforts to profit from them are creative and persistent.

Clock is Ticking...

After three months, Bali is still best.  I will return in January, during the rainy season to be sure. Next week I will go home to reconnect with loved ones and to tie into a slipknot, the loose ends which need to be secured before I make the move.

I have begun the process of exploring ways to earn my keep in Paradise. As a writer, thanks to the Internet, I can work anywhere on the planet where there is an electrical outlet and a telephone line. I will finish my book about expatriate havens. (Look for it this time next year!) And I will offer creative writing workshops in Bali.

I may have found my place in the sun, but I'll continue to check out expatriate havens in South Africa, Cambodia, Brazil, and beyond - and I will share my findings with you.

Thanks to all of you for your emails of encouragement and for hanging with me on this journey of self and geographical exploration. It is you, the readers, who have fueled the adventure. And so, for now anyway, I will keep one toe in the U.S., and move the rest of me to Bali.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

http://www.expat.or.id -
A great source of practical information for expats in Indonesia

http://www.strangerinparadise.com -
Entertaining reading about expat life in Bali

All of the following are lcated in Ubud, Bali:

Cendana Resort & Spa
Dr. Jim Taylor
www.healthresortsbali.com
62-81-239-27826

Made's Warung
"Best Food In Ubud" (and a great place to find houses for rent in the rice paddies)
Br. Penestanan Kaja
62-361-977885

PT Bali Kreasi Bisnis
"We create, develop and maintain your business." Highway Internet Cafe
highwaybali@hotmail.cm -
Tel. 62-361-972107
Fax 62-361-972106

Taman Rahasia
"The Secret Garden" Boutique Resort Spa & Restaurant
www.balisecretgarden.cm -
Email: info@balisecretgarden.com  -
phone: 62-361-979-395

Theo Zantman
www.theozantman.com  -

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