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Raising
a Blonde Samurai:
Moving
to Japan with Kids ~ Page 2
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story and photos
by
Cynthia Cudmore-Mulder
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| SHOPPING
Customer
Service
Vendors shout “Irashi-mase” (ee-rash-i
mas-ay: “I’m at your service”) along shopping streets everywhere in Japan.
In the early morning uniformed employees practice their customer greetings
in unison. Customer service here is perhaps number one in the world. Elevator
girls, doormen, customer service and information centers, cashiers; all
wear clean, starched uniforms, and everyone is exceptionally polite and
helpful.
Our blender broke after only a few
months of use. We took it back, and it was replaced immediately without
question or receipt. When a company is expected to repair something in
the house or make a delivery, an appointment is made and they actually
show up, precisely on time. Once, when a repairman was expected, he arrived
early. Instead of ringing our bell, he waited on the road in the rain for
the pre-arranged appointment. |
A Shopping Street
in Japan
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Some large department stores offer
areas for kids to play. Iwataya in Fukuoka has a popular babysitting service
where you can enjoy shopping in their high-end department store free of
distraction while the kids are entertained. Parents are given digital pagers.
Quality
and Variety
As one of the wealthiest countries
in the world, I am sure Japan has the largest, most discriminating shopper
population on the planet. Things can be expensive but quality is high and
plenty of bargains can be found during sale season at large department
stores. By shopping around we’ve found international and health foods,
discount groceries, membership stores, dollar (100 yen) stores, American
toys, English books, antiques, recycled appliances and furniture, factory
outlets, and amazing electronics.
| FESTIVALS
and SPECIAL DAYS
Festivals and special days are frequent,
on average more than once a month. Children are invited to enjoy the festivities,
and our son happily joining in is one of our finest memories of Japan.
Note: please reconfirm dates, some change with the year to coincide with
weekends.
Cherry Blossoms
Families picnicking under spring
blossoms, strolling along canals lined with flowering trees, children playing
badminton, seniors dabbling in watercolors; sounds like a scene from the
1800’s, but this is Japan in the 21st century. “Hanami” (han-a-mee: cherry
blossom festival) is the end of March or early April depending on winter’s
effect on the delicate pink and white buds. Companies hold annual picnics,
and family and friends flock to the parks to sit under the “sakura” (sak-oo-ra:
cherry blossoms), which last about a week. Adults hang out drinking sake
or beer; parties begin early in |
Enjoying the Blossoms
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the day and last until the wee hours.
Kids play and run throughout the parks (partiers’ picnic sheets hold their
spot for the day). Along paths under the blossoms “Yakitori” (yak-ee-toe-ree:
Japanese barbeque) is served up. The largest viewing area in Fukuoka has
3,390 trees; Hanami is deservedly world famous and a must while living
in Japan.
Children’s
Days
Little children dress from head
to toe in traditional garb for their special days: March 3 is “Hina-matsuri”
(hee-na-mat-soo-ri: girl’s day) when elaborately dressed “Hina” dolls (dolls
dressed in historic costume depicting the royal family) are on display
countrywide. May 5 is “Kodomo-no-hi” (ko-do-mo-no-hi: children’s day but
especially focused on boys), during the weeks before colorful carp wind
socks fly throughout the cities and countryside, and reproductions of samurai
armor are displayed. November 15 is “Hitchi-go-san no-hi” (hitch-i-go-san
no-hee: seven, five, three day), girls 3 and 7 years old, and boys 3 and
5 receive a blessing and candy from the priest, thanking the gods for allowing
them to survive- years ago many children died young.
Fukuoka
City Festivals
Every area in Japan has special
regional festivals. Dontaku (don-tak-oo) is Fukuoka’s citizens’ festival
which is held on May 3 and 4th during Golden Week. A celebration near Hakata
Port |
Hitchi-go-san: Children’s
Day
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many events are held including a large
parade when old and young alike dress up in costume and parade through
the streets-the festival attracts more than two million people.
Yamakasa (yam-a-kas-a: men’s festival
for the spirit of Hakata people) dates back 750 years. Young boys begin
by helping with the event and after a number of years can finally join
the race signifying their passage from boyhood to manhood. Held midsummer,
July 15, men in diaper-like thongs race with seven enormous, elaborate
floats decorated with life size dolls. Floats weigh over one ton. Many
more floats are on display throughout the city.
Hojoya (ho-jo-ya) began in 919 and
now attracts 1.6 million people. Beginning with a Shinto ritual, birds
and fish are set free to symbolize respect for all animals. Held Sept.
12-18 at Hakozaki Shrine in Fukuoka, some 700 stalls are set up with traditional
games and food for sale. Freshly harvested foods at the shrine signify
the changing of season from summer to autumn.
Fireworks
“Hanabi” (han-a-bee: fireworks)
displays in Fukuoka are stunning. One hanabi event held at Fukuoka Momochihama
beach in July lasts well over an hour, and is presented simultaneously
at two ends of the beach. It is choreographed to music played out of enormous
speakers. Hundreds of thousands of people attend and the calm comings and
goings of such a crowd is impressive. Everyone relaxes on their picnic
mats for the elaborate show- best of all, it is free. “Yukata” (yu-ka-ta:
summer kimono) clad teenage girls are a beautiful and common site during
the summer events.
Large National
Holidays
Golden Week (28 Apr.-May 5), New
Year (Dec. 31-Jan. 3) and Obon (around August 15, 3-7days) are times
to avoid travel in Japan. They are national holiday periods, many people
take vacation and prices can double or triple.
| THE ARTS
Concerts of traditional taiko drums
(tai-ko: traditional drums) are held frequently and sometimes free in the
parks during festivals. The famous taiko group “Kodo” is highly recommended.
We’ve attended classical music, rock, pop and jazz concerts here by international
and Japanese artists, always well organized and enjoyable. Kids are seen
and welcome almost everywhere. Museums and galleries show world class exhibitions-
Monet, Van Gogh, Egyptian exhibitions from the British Museum and priceless
Chinese national treasures are just a few.
It is tradition in Japan to learn
the art of appreciating beauty in all of our surroundings. From hand woven
silk obis (kimono belts) to ceramics to origami (o-ree-ga-me: paper folding).
In Japan, art is part of life. |
Fukuoka
Museum
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SOME CUSTOMS
Bowing
Often we see Japanese bowing while
talking on the phone. Bowing is respectful in Japan. Everyone does it.
Different levels of bows will be observed; I have seen children bowing
to a grownup to say “I’m sorry”, a maitre’d nearly touch his nose to his
knees to thank us for dining at his restaurant, I execute a formal "get
out of my way!" bow to drivers blocking my car. We bow for hello, thank
you, goodbye, excuse me, and just about every other expression imaginable.
Gas station attendants bow in thanks
and to show respect. Immaculate service station attendants usher us into
the gas station bowing, start pumping the gas, clean all the windows, ask
if there’s any garbage in the car and when finished, they’ll stand on the
road bowing to stop traffic and to make it safe to leave. Getting a tank
of gas makes me feel like royalty.
Gift Giving
Going to someone’s home, we always
bring a small gift. Stock up. These gifts are given frequently with food
items most appreciated. Japanese always bring gifts back from trips, even
if it was just to the next city 3 hours away. It is an important custom.
Take Off
Your Shoes
In many places- homes, some schools
and even offices, we’ll be expected to take off our shoes. Telltale signs
such as slippers ready to slip on and other people’s shoes at the door
are clues. The habit keeps the street dirt off the indoor floors. Once
indoors, we must be prepared to go one step further going into a tatami
room or onto a special carpet- there it is recommended to remove the slippers
as well. Young kids adapt to the habit quickly and parents learn to keep
up or risk their toddler running down the street alone while they are still
trying to get out the door. Many Japanese wear shoes with laces but leave
them tied very loosely in order to slip them on for a quick exit.
*We live in
Fukuoka City, on Kyushu, southernmost island of the main island chain of
Japan. Some things in this article will be different from other areas of
Japan; everyone’s experience will vary. |
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