One World, One Love, No
Ice:
Sprained
in Berlin's Love Parade
by Keith O’Brien
Berlin’s
Love Parade can be more dangerous than the running of the bulls in Pamplona
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| I, like many of my
neo-hippy generation comrades, toured Europe the summer preceding my
senior year at college with the itinerant yearning that infects the middle
class. Unbeknownst to me, I had a congregation waiting for my divine word
of travel once I returned home. Even those who did not know me that well
(hangers-on or semi-acquaintances) converged on me for a slice of the wayward
traveler. While most settled on inane questions regarding American products
abroad (Do they have McDonald's in Europe?), a few wanted city criticisms.
“So, what’s Berlin like?” someone
with a tenuous association to me asked.
“I don’t know,” I responded, but
then added, “It's very painful,” belatedly.
“You don’t know? I thought you went
there.”
He incorrectly inferred that because
I could not compare Berlin with another city, or assess it in some ready-made
conventional response, I had not been there. In reality (albeit, a very
questionable reality), the three days I spent in Berlin were too bizarre
to attribute to being a normal day in the capital of Germany. The only
lederhosen I saw that weekend had the crotch area cut out of them and,
oops, the gentleman forgot to wear underwear. I don’t know what Berlin
is like because, if it were like that everyday, the economy would solely
consist of wig manufacturers and Vodka sales. |
Keith
O'Brien was backpacking through Europe when he first got the news of
the upcoming Berlin Love Parade. After 12 countries in seven weeks, Keith
thought his whirlwind travel would pick up in this 12-hour EU outdoor
rave. The whirlwind subsided to an air cast for a badly sprained ankle,
but Keith didn't let that stop him. Party on.
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Nor could I image that half-naked
(sometimes naked) hedonists run the German government on ecstasy. He neglected
to register that I mentioned the experience was painful – due to a misstep
on my part. That happened during the largest rave in the world called the
Love Parade. I, joined by what seemed like every citizen in the EU, clogged
up Europe’s railways in order to attend the party.
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The 12-hour outdoor
rave, which takes place in the middle of the Tiergarten, produces more
trash and headaches than the WB Network. In search of a party, I, along
with 1.299999 million other people, decided to make Berlin my home that
weekend. Unfortunately, I underestimated the appeal of free love and techno
(also gratis), so I held off inquiring about a hostel until two weeks before
the event. Of those who spoke English well, they undoubtedly doubted their
fluency when I asked for a room with a permanent roof. Like other exiles,
I ended up in a makeshift camping ground where 10 Marks bought me a mattress
on the plywood floor of a communal tent. My fellow boarders raved about
the hot showers that lay 100 meters from our tent. I did not share their
enthusiasm because I misplaced my towel back in Belfast and did not invest
in another one due to acquired, deadly frugality. |
Travel note: Cold German air does
not dry warm American body in a pleasant manner.
Berlin transformed itself into the
ultimate peripatetic destination that weekend, and we campers found ourselves
right in the belly of the Bohemian beast. I arrived two nights prior to
the parade in order to get my bearings (difficult due to the disorientation
of being in 12 counties in 7 weeks).
I spent most of my pre Love Parade
time around the campfire, participating in varied conversations. A very
intoxicated South African man tried to explain why racism was necessary
in his country. A cute red headed girl from the US and I tried to determine
why the German standing before us cut his jeans, but left the leg parts
on.
The only qualm I had with the Love
Parade experience was that the DJs worked the crowd into a frenzy by rolling
down the street in 1 of 53 floats. Those who enjoyed his set had to follow
the speaker-enhanced Pied Piper down the street. I believe I was dancing
to Agnelli and Nelson when the curb told my ankle that it wasn’t welcome
in Germany.
“Crackle,” my ankle said, as it hit
the curb at an awkward angle. Perhaps it was another one of the Rice Crispie
chaps. Nonetheless, those little sprites never emoted the pain that came
with their sounds.
| Every year, Love Parade has a theme
title that sums up the event’s communal feeling. That year’s theme was
“One World, One Love Parade.” Unfortunately, this led me to incorrectly
assume the lingua franca was love and compassion. Those who loved me would
have assisted me to a medic tent. I really wished they had changed the
title to “Ravers must assist a wounded man to become a true enlightened
soul,” or perhaps just “Help me, Franz.” If this had happened in 1996 when
the rave claimed “We Are One Family,” the situation might have changed
(if our family had had decent health care).
I grimaced, I whimpered and I did
everything but hide the fact that I was in pain, but no one appeared concerned.
I had to walk about half-a-mile until I found a medic. He spoke English
well, but he did not seem to understand it with the same capacity. I distinctly
remember asking for some ice, but minutes later, found myself in a stretcher
being led through the parade. I can ascertain two reasons for the misunderstanding:
1) German cubed ice is valued as
much as American hip-hop ice... and proves to be scarcer.
2) They did not want the PR nightmare
of having an American tourist dying of a sprained ankle because he wasn't
rushed to the hospital. |
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The admitting doctor and I exchanged
some insurance details (rather I gave, he nodded), and he left me to ponder
my future … in the middle of a corridor. Thirty minutes passed before anyone
interrupted my isolation.
“You’re still here?” the admitting
doctor asked.
“Yes,” I replied. He paused, I assume
to scan his English vocabulary. While I have a bit of a hypochondria issue,
I knew that this sprain did not necessitate his administering last rights.
Regardless, it became apparent that he was about to say something that
he didn’t normally say.
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In his broken English,
he explained that an explosion in the U-Bahn injured 80 people and that
they were being rushed to the hospital, immediately. Therefore, my priority
level was downgraded to stupid, clumsy foreigner. I wanted to tell him
that I never asked to be taken to the hospital, but he focused his attention
on the English instructions on the pamphlet for the air cast he gave me.
He then instructed me to come back the next day to make sure that I did
not have ligament damage. I assured him I would return, and we shook hands
before I left the hospital. With the day still relatively young, I rejoined
the party.
The music paused for a second, looked
at my ankle, shrugged, and went back to its job. So, I reconciled with
the curb and rested my weary leg in front of me. The music blared into
the night, and it seemed like summer would last forever. |
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