| One World,
One Love, No Ice: |
| Sprained
in Berlin's Love Parade |
| by Keith O’Brien |
| Berlin’s
Love Parade can be more dangerous than the running of the bulls in Pamplona |
| I, like
many of my neo-hippy generation comrades, toured Europe the summer
preceding my senior year at college with the itinerant yearning that infects
the middle class. Unbeknownst to me, I had a congregation waiting for my
divine word of travel once I returned home. Even those who did not know
me that well (hangers-on or semi-acquaintances) converged on me
for a slice of the wayward traveler.
While most
settled on inane questions regarding American products abroad (Do they
have McDonald's in Europe?), a few wanted city criticisms.
“So, what’s
Berlin like?” someone with a tenuous association to me asked. |
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| “I don’t
know,” I responded, but then added, “It's very painful,” belatedly.
“You don’t
know? I thought you went there.”
He incorrectly
inferred that because I could not compare Berlin with another city, or
assess it in some ready-made conventional response, I had not been there.
In reality (albeit, a very questionable reality), the three days
I spent in Berlin were too bizarre to attribute to being a normal day in
the capital of Germany. The only lederhosen I saw that weekend had the
crotch area cut out of them and, oops, the gentleman forgot to wear underwear.
I don’t know what Berlin is like because, if it were like that everyday,
the economy would solely consist of wig manufacturers and Vodka sales.
Nor could
I image that half-naked (sometimes naked) hedonists run the German government
on ecstasy.
He neglected to register that I mentioned the experience was painful –
due to a misstep on my part. That happened during the largest rave in the
world called the Love Parade. I, joined by what seemed like every citizen
in the EU, clogged up Europe’s railways in order to attend the party. |
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| The 12-hour
outdoor rave, which takes place in the middle of the Tiergarten, produces
more trash and headaches than the WB Network. In search of a party,
I, along with 1.299999 million other people, decided to make Berlin my
home that weekend. Unfortunately, I underestimated the appeal of free love
and techno (also gratis), so I held off inquiring about a hostel
until two weeks before the event. Of those who spoke English well, they
undoubtedly doubted their fluency when I asked for a room with a permanent
roof.
Like other
exiles, I ended up in a makeshift camping ground where 10 Marks bought
me a mattress on the plywood floor of a communal tent. My fellow boarders
raved about the hot showers that lay 100 meters from our tent. I did not
share their enthusiasm because I misplaced my towel back in Belfast and
did not invest in another one due to acquired, deadly frugality. |
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Offshore
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| Travel note:
Cold German air does not dry warm American body in a pleasant manner.
Berlin transformed
itself into the ultimate peripatetic destination that weekend, and we campers
found ourselves right in the belly of the Bohemian beast. I arrived two
nights prior to the parade in order to get my bearings (difficult due
to the disorientation of being in 12 counties in 7 weeks).
I spent
most of my pre Love Parade time around the campfire, participating in varied
conversations. A very intoxicated South African man tried to explain
why racism was necessary in his country. A cute red headed girl from the
US and I tried to determine why the German standing before us cut his jeans,
but left the leg parts on.
The only
qualm I had with the Love Parade experience was that the DJs worked the
crowd into a frenzy by rolling down the street in 1 of 53 floats. Those
who enjoyed his set had to follow the speaker-enhanced Pied Piper down
the street. I believe I was dancing to Agnelli and Nelson when the curb
told my ankle that it wasn’t welcome in Germany. |
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| “Crackle,”
my ankle said, as it hit the curb at an awkward angle. Perhaps it was another
one of the Rice Crispie chaps. Nonetheless, those little sprites never
emoted the pain that came with their sounds.
Every year,
Love Parade has a theme title that sums up the event’s communal feeling.
That year’s theme was “One World, One Love Parade.” Unfortunately,
this led me to incorrectly assume the lingua franca was love and compassion.
Those who loved me would have assisted me to a medic tent.
I really wished
they had changed the title to “Ravers must assist a wounded man to become
a true enlightened soul,” or perhaps just “Help me, Franz.”
If this had happened in 1996 when the rave claimed “We Are One Family,”
the situation might have changed (if our family had had decent health
care). |
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Offshore
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| I grimaced,
I whimpered and I did everything but hide the fact that I was in pain,
but no one appeared concerned. I had to walk about half-a-mile until
I found a medic. He spoke English well, but he did not seem to understand
it with the same capacity. I distinctly remember asking for some ice, but
minutes later, found myself in a stretcher being led through the parade.
I can ascertain two reasons for the misunderstanding:
1) German
cubed ice is valued as much as American hip-hop ice... and proves to be
scarcer.
2) They
did not want the PR nightmare of having an American tourist dying of a
sprained ankle because he wasn't rushed to the hospital.
The admitting
doctor and I exchanged some insurance details (rather I gave, he nodded),
and he left me to ponder my future … in the middle of a corridor. Thirty
minutes passed before anyone interrupted my isolation.
“You’re
still here?” the admitting doctor asked.
“Yes,”
I replied. He paused, I assume to scan his English vocabulary. While I
have a bit of a hypochondria issue, I knew that this sprain did not necessitate
his administering last rights. Regardless, it became apparent that he was
about to say something that he didn’t normally say.
In his broken
English, he explained that an explosion in the U-Bahn injured 80 people
and that they were being rushed to the hospital, immediately. Therefore,
my priority level was downgraded to stupid, clumsy foreigner. I wanted
to tell him that I never asked to be taken to the hospital, but he focused
his attention on the English instructions on the pamphlet for the air cast
he gave me. He then instructed me to come back the next day to make sure
that I did not have ligament damage. I assured him I would return, and
we shook hands before I left the hospital. With the day still relatively
young, I rejoined the party.
The music
paused for a second, looked at my ankle, shrugged, and went back to its
job. So, I reconciled with the curb and rested my weary leg in front
of me. The music blared into the night, and it seemed like summer would
last forever. |
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