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Avria on the Island of Rhodes:
Learning
to Go with the Flow
by Ron Ferguson
Foreign
bureaucracy can be annoying. In Greece, they have raised it to an
art form.
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| On August the 23rd,
2010, the weather on Rhodes will be sunny, with blue skies and hot.
I will give anyone who cares to lose their money, 10-1 odds on that prediction.
Which brings us to the number one
reason why people want to live in Greece. Great weather. Rhodes has
over 300 days of sunshine per year according to the statisticians.
Unfortunately, great weather alone does not make a place necessarily a
good place to live. You want friendly people, reasonable prices for
goods, affordable housing, easy access, good health care and a minimum
of bureaucracy. Rhodes has all of these except the last.
In most countries in the world dealing
with bureaucrats can be annoying. In Greece, they have raised it
to an art form. Perhaps because they have been at it longer than
just about anywhere else. So if you are considering life in Greece
be prepared for a new experience.
Take for example getting your Residence
Permit. Generally speaking, if you are a foreign national, you will
only be allowed a six month visa and must leave and re-enter the country
after a few days if you wish to stay longer than that. These brief
exits are called "Visa Runs" by everyone in Greece and the world over.
However, if you have EU citizenship, then you are entitled to live and
work in Greece permanently. Accordingly, you can get two kinds of
Residence Permit. One is good for six months (intended for raising
money from seasonal tourism workers), and one is for five years.
What would take a couple of visits to a government office over a couple
of days in some countries, will probably take something like eight or nine
visits over two weeks in Greece. |
Ron
Ferguson was born in Scotland, grew up in Canada and has lived in the USA,
France and Greece. He is now living in Scotland. After retiring
at 43 he spent a few years travelling and sailing. In 1993, he went
to the island of Rhodes intending to spend a week to ten days seeing the
island. He stayed for 7 years. |
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Typically, you visit an office with
a form filled out. You are told to take it to Room 6. In Room
6, after waiting for the person to finish an argument with his wife on
the phone which you are sure would result in murder of one or the other
if they were face to face, you are told you need to buy and affix a stamp
to the document before it can be signed. So, off you go to buy a
stamp which can only be bought at one of the little cigarette stands on
the street because they have the concession to sell government stamps.
You buy the necessary amount of stamps (usually around 50p or 50 cents)
stick them on your form and return.
| It is ll.45am. The offices
close at noon. You get to Room 6 and the gentleman has left for the
day. Noon is a flexible concept. The following day you return
to Room 6 bright and early at 9am with your form stamped. You are
greeted with a scowl, your form glanced at and you are told it has to first
be signed by the woman in Room 2. So, off you go to Room 2.
Don't even think of asking why he couldn't have told you that yesterday.
Room 2 is busy with a line of about 3 people waiting. At 11am you
finally get your turn. The woman signs your form, thumps it with
a rubber stamp and tells you to take it to Room 4. What happened
to Room 6? In Room 4, a gentleman looks at your form and throws it
into one of his trays. You stand there looking at him. He finally
says, " OK, you go now. Come back 3 days."
As you wander home in a daze, you
figure it all out. The job of the gentleman in Room 6 is simply to
tell you what other rooms to take your form to. He also has the responsibility
to tell you if you need stamps. That is quite unusual.
In Greece the rule is "One man, one job," and this is often taken to extremes.
The woman in Room 2 is responsible for signing your form. The gentleman
in Room 4 is responsible for collecting it. |
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Congratulations! You are now
a beginning veteran of Greek bureaucracy. Only 6 more visits, or
so, like this and you will have a Residence Permit!
This description is not an exaggeration,
and this kind of process applies to everything involving any kind of government
paperwork. Many foreigners moving to Greece find it so frustrating
that it becomes a major problem for them. If you are going to live
in Greece you have to learn how to accept these kinds of things and go
with the flow.
For example, never expect to finish
transacting a piece of business with the government. When it is finished,
it will come as a pleasant surprise. Head out in the morning
intending to visit that office and perhaps manage to achieve one more piece
of the process, or not, as the Gods will.
| Time is money they tell us.
Well, no one told Greece! Time is a very flexible commodity, and
you must learn to think the same way or go crazy. My favourite lesson
in time came from our village postman. One year in early August,
I was expecting a letter from someone. Every day for a week I checked
the mailbox and nothing arrived. Finally I asked my landlord if there
was a strike going on since not one piece of paper had arrived for anyone
in a week. He laughed and said, "It's August, the mailman takes his
holidays in August." That was all he said, the total explanation
necessary. If the mailman is on holiday, how can you get a mail delivery
was the obvious and simple logic. If you can't wait till September
for your next delivery, go to the village post office and they will let
you look through the mail for yourself!
Two great Greek words are "avria"
and "meta avrio". They translate as tomorrow and after tomorrow.
What they mean are, some time in the next 2 weeks and probably never.
If a Greek friend arranges to meet you for a drink at 6pm and turns up
at 7.30pm, he probably won't apologize. Why would he, he isn't late. |
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To live in Greece you must learn
to accept and enjoy the Greek concepts of efficient bureaucracy and time.
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