The Potato Eaters
Belarusians adore potatoes – particularly served as draniki. In fact, they eat so many spuds (around 170kg per person annually) that their neighbours have nicknamed them Bulbashi – potato-eaters. Potatoes are such a staple that it’s hard to imagine any meal without them. According to the UN Food and Agriculture Association, Belarus grows more potatoes than any other country on earth (Russia is ranked 18th)

Don’t Think it
Old Soviet saying still recalled in Belarus
Don’t think it
If you think it, don’t say it
If you say it, don’t write it
If you write it, don’t sign it
If you sign it, don’t be surprised

Belarusian women commonly see foreign men as good husband material – believing they are rich and can offer them a comfortable lifestyle. Online dating agencies have enabled countless numbers of young girls to ‘meet’ husbands from abroad. Many of those taking English classes do so with the express wish of getting hitched to an American or British man. Men, be aware that, regardless of how charming you believe yourself to be, you are the hunted – not the hunter.

Security
The crime rate is phenomenally low in Belarus. You are unlikely to feel threatened in any way – even walking back to your hotel late at night alone. Saying this, it’s sensible to take the usual precautions. After midnight, jump in a taxi if one is available and don’t flash your cash unnecessarily.

Always carry your passport on you (the police may ask to see your documents) but keep a photocopy back at the hotel.

Beware of girls asking you back to their flats – you don’t know who might be waiting for you. There have been a few tales of foreign men arriving at the airport, hoping to be met by their Internet girlfriends. Instead, their local lady sends her ‘brother’ to collect them. The unsuspecting Casanova finds himself dumped in a remote location minus his passport, money and luggage.

Sense of Humour
Belarusians love to tease each other; the more acute the teasing, the stronger the friendship. Jokes relating to the political situation abound but are only shared behind closed doors in trusted company. As in Soviet times, people are still aware that openly telling a political joke could land them in trouble. Don’t be tempted to tell such jokes yourself, as it will be construed as inappropriate and, even, rude. Foreigners aren’t expected to be conversant with the complexities of the local situation. To offer an opinion is ignorant at best, arrogant at worst.

This joke demonstrates the Belarusians ability laugh at their own traditional passivity. They have a history of putting up with unpleasantness, believing that trials are sent to be endured rather than fought against:

An American, a Russian and a Belarusian are each invited to sit on a chair which has a drawing pin placed upon it. First, the American sat down and, on being hurt, sprang up declaring 'damn it!'

The Russian also quickly jumped up, muttering a four-letter word.

The Belarusian sat down and felt the pin pierce his flesh. At first, his inclination was to move but, then, he sat back down and said, "Perhaps, it should be so."

Toasting
Toasting has its own set of rituals. When being formal, the first toast is made to the guest of honour. The second is for friends and the third is to women (praising their beauty and talents). You can toast any occasion or object (except the deceased at a funeral). Toasting a new car or fur coat is a charming local custom, showing appreciation of good fortune. Glasses are filled while on the table. Raise your glass during a toast, ‘clink’ glasses with everyone (a show of friendship and trust), keep eye contact, then down your vodka in one gulp. Don’t let your glass touch the table again until it’s empty. In military circles, it’s traditional to toast the award of a medal: you place it in a glass of vodka, drain the spirit, then remove the decoration and put it on.

Table Etiquette
Singletons should never sit at the corner – unless they want to remain unmarried. If you drop a fork or spoon, a female guest will soon appear. A fallen knife indicates that a man will arrive. To reverse this, tap the utensil on the table three times and say ‘stay at home.’ Playing with your knife is bad form – supposed to encourage arguments. If there are 13 people at the table, two must be in love – even if they are unaware of the fact; this gives plenty of scope for teasing. Once a bottle is empty it should be speedily removed from the table, otherwise there will be no full bottles in future. Sitting between two people of the same name is thought to be very lucky however.

Attitudes to Homosexuality
In Soviet times, homosexuality was punishable by a five-year prison sentence. This was revoked in Belarus in 1992 but homosexuality remains largely frowned upon as ‘unnatural’. There is no open ‘gay scene’ and many deny it exists, seeing it as an outside ‘corruption’. Ideas are very old-fashioned; even your most liberal minded Belarusian friends may have strong feelings on this issue. Although homosexuals are not barred from serving in Belarus' Armed Forces (conscription is obligatory), the first Deputy Chief of the Defense Ministry's Main Ideological Directorate has publicly stated that ‘those with such sexual orientation prefer to go abroad …. there are no such problems here.’

Chernobyl
Reactor number 4 at the Chernobyl nuclear power plant in northern Ukraine exploded on 26th April 1986. The explosion released over 100 times more radiation than that seen in Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Belarus lay directly in the path of danger, with winds blowing the fallout straight over the border. The south and southeast of the country remain particularly affected by radiation, having taken around 70% of the total fallout.

The long term social and psychological effects have been significant. Incidences of depression and alcohol dependence in affected areas have risen – exacerbated by a lack of employment opportunities and a sense of fatalism. Many women from these regions have long been scared of having children, fearing abnormalities; those who move away usually try to keep their former home secret, anxious that men won’t marry them. The Belarusian government is now implementing a revival plan to set up factories and provide modern housing, schools and hospital facilities, addressing a desperate need. Gradually, hope is returning.

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