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Brad Does
Brazil - an American in
Southern Brazil
By
Brad Leigh
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A verdant song of
sirens comely and enchanting, a sweet, strapping howl
ripe with promise and intrigue: those were the sounds that pulled me to
Brazil last year. During the three months I was there, I bought a
modest but majestic parcel of land and fell in love with a beautiful
Brasilera.
Previously, while
visiting central Italy, I’d marveled at the
simplicity of Italian lifestyle... its social inclusiveness, its lack
of obsessive consumerism, the Italian sense of well-being regardless of
socioeconomic strata. During my entire stay in Italy, not one Southern
European asked me what I did for a living with the underlying (albeit
unwitting) intention of putting me in a "box" -- a category -- deeming
me fit or unfit for their company and presumed place in an unspoken
pecking order subscribed to by so many Americans. In southern Europe,
nobody cared about your job, or one's imagined "station" in life, and
it was delightful -- their social fabric spun from belonging,
inclusiveness, community and the sort of unconditional acceptance one
does not find easily in the USA. I'd thought about moving to Italy but
real estate in Tuscany and points south to the sea, was very expensive.
The ascent and exchange value of the Euro have made these properties
even less affordable for Americans.
Returning home from
Italy had been major culture shock, being immersed
once again in the land of the Jones'... one and all hard pressed
to "keep up" in a republic whose cultural identity is derived,
individually, from our possessions, our respective net worth and
capacity to consume -- versus identity derived from critical thinking,
the realm of ideas, inspiration and the stirrings of our souls. In the
aftermath of Italy and its cozy inclusiveness, it was difficult
readjusting to the more Darwinian sensibilities of life in the USA.
With the exception of
Rio, the references I'd heard to Brazil were
virtually all about the north -- Bahia, Salvador, Natal -- hot,
tropical jungle and coastline proffering untamed delights. On few
occasions however, I encountered travelers returning from the south of
Brazil whose social experiences were similar to my own in Italy. But in
Brazil, unlike Tuscany, land was said to be affordable.
I was told the south
of Brazil and in particular, the state of Santa
Catarina was a melting pot with beautiful beaches, a curious mix of
Brazilians and Europeans, with a growing economy -- a place in which
one could make a life.
Maybe it was North
America’s dubious state of the union, or the promise
of a semi-tropical, fruit-laden paradise. Maybe it was (my being a
musician) a love of Bossa Nova and the works of late Brazilian composer
Tom Jobim -- his genius revered (for me), in the same breath as
Einstein, the Beatles and Stevie Wonder. Magical intersections of
humanity and God's toolbox.
Maybe it was all of
these things or maybe it was just the sirens' call
afterall, a primordial throb. bountiful, ripe and rooted. If Maui is
truly the heart of the Great Mother, then Brazil is surely her glorious
bunda, though some might argue, her vibrant cleavage, humid and
glistening. A briny, savory mist crossing oceans in the guise of salt
air and landing at my front door. Spurred by such a compelling
invitation, and through a series of what can only be described as
synchronous events (an entirely different conversation), all roads
pointed south to the Island of Santa Catarina and the city of
Florianopolis (flor-ee-uh-NAHP-o-liss) also known as Floripa
(flor-REE-puh).
In March 2005, I
arrived on a 90-day visa with the intention of staying
three months to explore the area and if all felt right, buy land. I had
brought all the documentation required for the transaction including
birth certificate translated into Portuguese and certified with
apostle.
My path took me
straight to the town of Lagoa, one of many beach towns
on the Island of Santa Catarina. Laid back, peaceful, relaxing, and
blessed with wonderful nightlife, the town of Lagoa is only a
fifteen-minute ride by car to the city of Florianopolis whose downtown
is also known as Centro (SEN-troo). Florianopolis is a thriving,
compact city with beautiful salt-water views, nice restaurants, plenty
of shopping, movie theaters, and a great public market. If you are
going to land in Centro and need a hotel for a few nights prior to
finding more permanent digs, I recommend Hotel Ibis (about $38 US per
night). It has the best combination of amenities, cleanliness, value,
location and a pretty good buffet if you don't feel like eating out.
Ask for a room as high as possible with views of the bridge and water.
Though I did spend
time in Centro, my home base for three months (with
the exception of a side trip to Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro and
Buzios) was the town of Lagoa da Conceição -- Lagoa
(La-GO-uh) for short, whose quaint, easy downtown, also known as
Centrinho (sen-TREEN-oo) is surrounded by beautiful beaches or praias
(PRY-uh) and a beautiful lake, the town's namesake -- Lagoa da
Conceição (con-SAY-sau).
The first order of
business was finding a place to live and
transportation to explore the island. There are many motels and
B&B's, referred to as pousadas (poo-SAH-duh), in and around Lagoa.
The more expensive variety are located in Centrinho or near the beaches
or situated around the lake, but deals can be found during the
off-season (mid-March through November), particularly if you rent by
the month. Prices come way down renting by the month. Less expensive
accommodations can be found in nearby Barra da Lagoa (tudo coisas boa).
I landed at Pousada
Assefaz on Lagoa da Conceico, a 3-minute ride to
Centrinho, renting a hotel-style room on a per-night basis for about
$14 (US) per night which included a buffet-style breakfast. The view of
the lake was great from the hotel rooms and dining room. The staff were
very friendly, but the hotel-style rooms were very noisy, particularly
in the morning. Assefaz is a conference center so it's geared somewhat
to the business community. Lot's of early risers and morning traffic on
Rua Vereador Osni Ortega, close to the main building. Also -- very
important -- none of the staff at Assefaz spoke fluent English. Though
I do think it's important to learn Brazilian Portuguese if you're going
to spend significant time in Brazil, I found as an English-speaker,
that it is VITAL to have someone onsite at your residence or hotel whom
can speak English and help you navigate important issues like
transportation, banking, laundry, directions, phone system, postal
services, internet services, etc. It will save you hours of
frustration, wasting time, dealing with what would ordinarily be
effortless, mundane tasks in the USA. You'll also learn more about the
local culture from someone whom lives there yet literally speaks your
language.
There are several
places to rent cars in Florianopolis, but I had
arrived at the very end of summer and there was plenty of hot sunny
weather to be had so I wanted a motorcycle and was referred to a rental
shop called Locomotos at 1462, Av. das Rendeiras (hen-DEE-rus) -- Tel
(48) 3232-1717, very close to Centrinho and conveniently on the way to
the beautiful beaches of Lagoa (www.locomotos.com.br). For a single
passenger, the Honda Biz KS 100cc is a great and economical way to tour
the island. Reasonable speed and power for the San Francisco-like hills
between Lagoa and Florianopolis and a handy storage space for
windbreaker and a few small personal items. There is a larger model if
you want more speed and power. I rented the bike for a month and it was
a great value.
Lagoa is a major
tourist destination in the summer (December through
February). Roads to and from the beaches can back-up with traffic.
Motorcycles give one the ability to weave and flow through
bumper-to-bumper gridlock with smug satisfaction. You can park almost
anywhere and the savings on gas is a given. There are designated
motorcycle parking areas all over Centro as well.
It was at Locomotos
that I met the shop's proprietor, a very amiable
fellow named Gustavo Tarikian... known to friends and associates as
Guga (GOO-guh). An entrepreneur with interests in a variety of
businesses, Guga, like many Floripa residents originally from Sao
Paulo, speaks fluent English. He has also lived in the USA and
understands our popular culture very well. In a matter of days, Guga
became my friend and ally, translator and associate. His knowledge and
service were instrumental in my hunt for acreage and eventual
acquisition of a land parcel south of Florianopolis on the coastal
mainland in a little surf town called Garopaba.
He and his wonderful
girlfriend, Camila welcomed me into their home,
introduced me to their friends, invited me to parties, gatherings and
nights out on the town and made me feel entirely welcome in their
country -- introducing me to the Brazilian pastime known as churrasco
(shoo-HA-scoo) where friends get together at someone's home and pass
the time, drinking and eating delicious slow-cooked meats and side
dishes. These gatherings were some of my favorite times in Brazil. We
would play music and visit into the wee hours with occasional late
night forays to the beach.
With Guga's
directions, I set off to explore the Island of Santa
Catarina, the city of Florianopolis and all the surrounding beach
towns. The northern end of the island is by far the most affluent and
developed area. The western side of the island, facing inland, and
northern coastal areas offer many places to stay and very tranquil
surf, a favorite destination for families with young children. Parents
can rest easy on bay beaches with waves no more unwieldy than a kiddie
pool. The Argentines have been flocking to this part of the island for
years. There are many seafood restaurants offering a variety of
delights at very reasonable prices. Yachts and sailboats dot the
seascape.
The northern end of
the island is wonderful to visit, with beautiful
vistas and tourist destinations. My favorite places were Brava and
Ponta Das Canas. Jurere (joo-roo-RAY) [soft "j" as in Taj Mahal],
Ingleses (een-GLAY-zez) and Santinho (san-CHEE-no) are also popular,
busy destinations with large resorts and noticeable affluence. Jurere
is the Beverly Hills... the Scarsdale of the island. Daniela is nice
too.
Though I enjoyed my
visits to this part of the island, it was somewhat
upscale and insulated for my tastes which run a little more wild and
bohemian. I like the raging surf and edgier ambiance one finds on the
central, eastern side of the island, particularly in Lagoa which has a
youthful, athletic, adventurous culture. Lagoa boasts great places for
traditional surfing, wind-surfing, kite-surfing, hang-gliding,
para-gliding and dune surfing. The culture in Lagoa feels more plugged
in... turned on... not as sedate as the northern end of the island.
Lagoa is closer to the university and Centro so there are more students
which add to its relaxed though freewheeling lifestyle and active
nightlife.
One place I really
liked however, on the west side of the island was
the town of Santo Antonio de Lisboa. Entering town on its sole
main street, there are a series of quaint restaurants and shops
overlooking the water. At the very end of the main drag, across the
street from a park-like piazza is a little shack packed with locals
sitting around picnic tables overlooking the bay. It's an oyster shack.
You can choose raw or steamed with all manner of condiments. They serve
cold beer and the infamous Caipirinha (kai-pe-REEN-yuh)... a drink made
with sugar cane liquor called Caçhaca (kah-SHAH-suh), mixed with
sugar, crushed lime and ice. I went to this little haven several times
to eat oysters and get drunk with the locals, none of whom spoke a lick
of English. It afforded the opportunity to practice Brazilian
Portuguese and make new friends. When the guy in the shack ran out of
oysters, he'd wade out into beds and fill his buckets. Talk about
fresh! -- and inexpensive too.
Brazil is all about
beach life and no beach is more popular in Lagoa
than Praia Mole (MO-lee) with its comfortable sand, strong surf and
juice or sucos (SOO-kohs) bars. Açai (Ah-sy-EE) is a very
popular juice in Brazil -- a favorite for breakfast. When prepared well
it is thick and icy cold like berry sorbet and eaten with a spoon.
Loaded with antioxidants and Amazonian nano-vitality, Açai is an
amazing cure for hangovers. It is (unlike Lucky Charms) actually
magically delicious. There is nothing quite so refreshing as sitting on
Praia Mole with an icy cool cup of Açai, people-watching. The
views are easily on par with those of Ipanema and Copacabana.
For those into a more
natural approach to the great outdoors, just
north of Praia Mole is Praia Galheta (ga-LEE-tuh) which is clothing
optional. North of Galheta is Praia Moçambique
(moh-sam-BEE-kee)... a long, remote stretch of beach less crowded than
Praia Mole.
Lagoa's other beach is
Praia Joaquina (jua-KEE-nuh) which has a
different sort of ambiance. At Joaquina's main entrance, there are
several shops and casual sit-down restaurants with nice views of the
beach and ocean vista. The lightly batter-fried fish appetizer at the
main restaurant rocks. A five-minute walk in a southerly direction
toward Campeche, takes one away from the busy entrance to more tranquil
sections of the beach.
For Americans,
depending on your dietary habits, cuisine in southern
Brazil can be a natural fit, or require some adjustments. If you like
meat and potatoes, or fish, you're good to go. In the south of the
Brazil, carne is king. They love eating meat. Fish and seafood are also
abundant, popular and prepared in a variety of ways. Starchy vegetables
like potatoes predominate. Carrots, beets and tomatoes are everywhere.
Cucumbers make an appearance from time to time. Lettuce tends toward a
mild, leafy iceberg variety. If you're into a big selection of greens
including spinach, kale, chard, and cabbages like bok choy and Napa,
you may be challenged to find these easily with the exception of
arugula -- the bitter, flavorful green which is popular and bountiful.
In Brazil, the culinary emphasis is on the carne and the fish or
seafood. The vegetables seem more of an afterthought. Brazilians derive
much of their raw fiber from fruit, which is abundant and delicious.
Though there are three good supermarkets in Centrinho -- for items like
fresh mushrooms and a wider assortment of vegetables, drive 15 minutes
to the giant Angeloni supermarket on Beira Mar Norte. Don't expect a
Whole Foods experience, just the best selection of produce to be found
in the area. There are Angeloni markets elsewhere in Centro too.
Check out the sucos
bars not just in Florianopolis, but all over
Brazil. One can easily make a morning meal of Açai. The other
juice varieties and combinations are delicious and refreshing.
If you like big
breakfasts, you'll love pousadas whose price includes a
bountiful buffet-style breakfast of hot and cold items. For me this was
not so important as I preferred to frequent the cafes in Centrinho
where one can get a great cup of coffee and a variety of pastries and
sandwiches -- variations on a panini. In the heart of Centrinho, there
is a Texaco station (posto) with several traditional cafes and internet
cafes nearby. During the week in the morning, these cafes are
relatively quiet, but fill with patrons in the late afternoon. I
generally went to Rocambole, the first of four adjacent cafes and a
newstand, sharing outside seating and a very social environment. On the
weekend, it is lively and crowded all day. Anyone of these cafes is
fine for a light, quick breakfast, but my favorites are just a few
blocks from here. Pain du Soleil (walking toward Centro from the
Texaco) offers great coffee, French pastries and sandwiches. It is
operated by Jean-Marc and his wife. Jean-Marc is from St. Tropez and
speaks both French and Brazilian Portuguese. He is also gifted with
tile. If you should decide to buy and remodel a home or build a home in
the area, check out his work. It is beautiful and he has photos.
Jean-Marc speaks some English and likes talking to Americans. He is a
gracious host. Pain du Soleil offers covered outdoor seating and
off-street parking. Luna Laguna (walking toward the bridge from Texaco)
fronts the Via Lagoa Shopping Center and also offers great drinks,
pastries, snacks and a lively outdoor terrace.
Lunch can be had
anywhere. I preferred the lunch buffets where one can
always find rice, arugula, sometimes cilantro or another green I have
yet to identify, tomatoes, and of course meat and fish, along with a
variety of stews and potato dishes. Not a huge lover of beans, I didn't
eat a lot of Feijoada, a national dish. It's a stew made with black
beans and a variety of meats. Though delicious, it is rich and heavy--
something I'd eat after hiking fifty miles in the Arctic, or on a
Sunday afternoon curled up on the couch watching the NFL -- quasi
nap-time. The buffets provide the best value and the most variety
for lunch. They ensure you'll get your green, leafy vegetable fix on a
daily basis if you're eating out a lot.
There are lunch
buffets in and around Lagoa. One of the most popular is
Rancho da Jackie on the road from Lagoa to Rio Tavares and Campeche.
Leaving Centrinho, the road is called Rua Vereador Osni Ortega. As you
drive south past the end of Lagoa da Conceição (the
actual lake), it is about two minutes up the road on your right side.
While many buffets charge by the kilo, Rancho da Jackie is "all you can
eat" (buffet livre). It is very popular with locals and tourists alike
and a good value.
On the way to Rancho
da Jackie, also on the right, is Rosen's -- a
wonderful indoor/outdoor cafe great for breakfast, lunch or a light
dinner. The owner's name is Carmen. She speaks English and is very
personable. On Monday nights, she hosts a different guest chef who
cooks a sit-down gourmet dinner for guests. It's a wonderful place to
eat great food and meet new people. I met several English speakers
there.
Pizza also rules in
Florianopolis. There's lots of it everywhere in
Lagoa. My favorites are Pizza Na Pedra in Centrinho and on the other
side of the lake on Rua Laurindo Januario da Silveira -- Nave
Mãe and Basilico. Also on the other side of the lake is a
Mediterranean restaurant called Villa Magionne with great food and
romantic ambience on the lake's edge.
Rua Afonso Delambert
Neto is a street in Centrinho full of restaurants
and bars. At night it is busy with young locals and tourists. An
upstairs restaurant called Peperoni hosts a pizza buffet. You pay one
price and they come to your table every few minutes with different
kinds of pizza which they serve by the slice. It's another
all-you-can-eat deal. They even serve dessert pizza -- bananas 'n
chocolate was great! The upstairs deck has a nice view of the street
below. If you're in the mood for carne, across the street is Confraria
Chopp da Ilha. All the restaurants and bars on this street are great
for people-watching and making friends during the evening. On weekends
it rocks till the wee hours.
My favorite Churrascos
were at the homes of friends. Lagoa da
Conceição and Centro Florianopolis did not appear to have
an abundance of great churrasco restaurants or Churrascarias
(shoo-hahs-KAIR-uh) -- certainly not as good as Rio de Janeiro nor the
amazing assados of Buenos Aires, Argentina. My favorite
Churrascaria-style buffet in Centro Florianopolis was Texano Grill at
the Beira Mar Shopping Mall, a great place to catch dinner prior to a
movie.
No conversation about
Lagoa would be complete without some words about
nightlife. Any of the beaches are romantic on a warm summer night...
and for such a cozy town, there are many choices for clubs and music.
In Centrinho, Confraria (con-fra-REE-uh) das Artes
(www.confrariadasartes.com) is probably my favorite. There is a dance
floor with DJ and nice bar, but also a separate area with couches and
overstuffed chairs where you can sit in intimate groups and actually
hear yourselves talk. Great ambiance, great club. Latitude 27
(La-ti-TOO-jee) is high above the lake with beautiful views
(www.latitude27.com.br). From Centrinho, it is on the road to Praia
Mole on your left near the top of the hill. The outdoor deck is huge,
great DJ, big party. For live music, Drakkar (dra-KAR) in Centrinho is
great (www.bardrakkar.com.br) as well as John Bull Pub which features a
lot of American-sounding rock bands. If you're heading into Centro, El
Divino (dee-VEEN-yoo) on Beira Mar Norte is a dance club and dining
experience with an upscale vibe (www.eldivinobrasil.com.br). It's fun,
but for a more inclusive, casual vibe, check out the Scuna (SCOO-nuh)
Bar (www.guiafloripa.com.br/scunabar). Great bands and a great crowd,
more thirties and forty-somethings and when the band plays tunes that
are popular in Brazil, the whole crowd -- EVERYBODY sings! I love this!
Be forewarned, if you go to any nightclubs in Brazil before 10 pm or
so, they'll be empty. The clubs don't really get going until 11 or
11:30 pm.
On a more practical
note, even in paradise, one must check e-mail from
time to time and access online services. Unless I'm traveling solely on
business, I don't like to carry a laptop and so, rely on local
cybercafes for computer time, printing, scanning and internet access,
transporting my documents and data on a handy little USB storage device
the size of a disposable lighter. Some pousadas have onsite internet
access and some do not. Centrinho has three major cybercafes within a
block of the Texaco. Several other cafes in the immediate vicinity are
also adding internet access. My favorite is Cyber Net, directly across
the street from the Texaco on Rua Manoel Severino de Oliveira
(www.cybernetlagoa.com.br). The computers work well and have
comprehensive programs. Printing, scanning, fax and CD burning services
are available along with espresso, juice and soft drinks. What I like
most, however is that the owner, Robert (Ro-BAIR), always has someone
onsite whom speaks English. Fernanda, Julianna and Caesar (say-ZAR) all
helped me on several occasions with computer and mission-critical
document-related issues. This would have been nearly impossible had
they not spoken English. Again, though I encourage one and all to learn
Brazilian Portuguese, important, mission-critical transactions and
communications require the assistance of those whom can speak fluent
English.
A few practical tips.
Your ATM cards may work at some banks' ATM
machines but not others. For a sure bet, use the machines at Bradesco
Bank. They're the most modern ATM machines in Brazil. They accept all
ATM cards and don't have a problem with long PIN numbers. Also, bring
an extra ATM card (well-hidden) in case your primary card craps out or
demagnetizes. New policies at many US banks due to new US government
regulations make it very difficult for financial institutions to
forward replacement credit or ATM cards anywhere but your domestic U.S.
street address, or the mailing address listed on the account. I spent
hours on the phone, trying to get my bank to send me a replacement
debit card. As it turned out, the card I thought was non-functional,
simply wasn't compatible with the ATM machines I'd been trying to
access, until I found the Bradesco machines which worked everywhere,
always.
In the event that you
are having problems with ATM machines or need
more than your available daily limit, be forewarned, cash advances on
ATM or credit cards do not take five minutes at banks in Brazil as they
do here in the USA. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours in a bank if
you need a cash advance, particularly if it is over $300 US. I advise
against trying to do these transactions in Lagoa. The branches are not
equipped to do this easily. Go to Centro for all major bank
transactions.
Assuming your
USA-based cell phone does not work in Brazil, buy an
international pre-paid phone card in the USA with a locked-in rate to
and from Brazil and rechargeable minutes. International phone cards
purchased in Lagoa (or anywhere in Brazil) will cost you out the wazoo.
You can buy a cell phone down there as well but relative to what we pay
for minutes and long-distance here, Brazil's rates seem very high.
To phone Brazil from
the USA, dial 0 11 55, and then the city code,
followed by the phone number. In Florianopolis, the city code is 48,
followed by an eight-digit phone number. Skype is a great way to make
phone calls and communicate with Brazilians via the internet. A
Skype-to-Skype call between the USA and Brazil is free. You can't beat
that. Skype-to-landline or Skype-to-cell is still a fraction of what
you pay for conventional long distance minutes. Conventional cell phone
calls from the USA to Brazil cost me 30¢ per minute (ouch!)
Also, don't expect to
find coin-op laundries like here in the USA. In
Brazil, you drop your laundry off at a lavandaria (la-VAN-da-REE-uh)
and pick it up the next day. Be prepared to have attendants go through
your dirty laundry right there on the counter to identify the number
and type of garments you've brought so they can bill accordingly and
ensure the return of all items. It's a little unnerving but you get
used to it. There's a lavandaria right near the bridge from Centrinho
to Rendeiras. They have a great deal... a flat fee for a standard load
and they do a nice job... always prompt and they never lose your
clothes.
For the most part, I
spent my time on the beaches, and in the
restaurants, clubs and cyber cafes of Lagoa and in the homes of friends
in Lagoa and due south in the towns of Rio Tavares and Campeche,
motoring hither and yon on my bike. I was very happy living in Lagoa
with occasional forays into Centro for adventures of a more urban
nature. The area around the public market percolates with activity and
the city of Florianopolis is totally wired with high-speed broadband.
With Guga's help, our
hunt for land began in earnest. Though open to
the notion of buying a house, I preferred to buy land and build a
house, primarily due to the fact that I am a media producer and like to
work from home. Home studios for media production and specifically,
professional audio mixing, require unique spatial configurations and
audio characteristics one rarely finds in a standard home.
The sustainable
construction and lifestyle modalities I favor also
require a good solar footprint, decent soil for gardening, and a good
source of water. I wanted to be as close to the town of Lagoa as
possible, with nice views of the ocean, lake or countryside at a
reasonable price. Though we found a few properties here and there, the
bottom line is that Lagoa, Florianopolis and the Island of Santa
Catarina have been "discovered" by Paulistas (Brazilians from Sao
Paolo), Cariocas (Brazilians from Rio), Gauchos ("gah-OO-shoo" --
Brazilians from Porto Alegre and the state of Rio Grande do Sul),
Argentines, Europeans and Americans with the means to buy. Properties
on the Island of Santa Catarina are no longer fabulously inexpensive.
Million dollar views will cost you mid-to-high six figures (US). The
"amazing" deals we'd heard about were not to be found here unless one
wanted to live in an area accessible solely by walking trail or boat
-- a novel thought for strictly residential or vacation use, but
not a practical option for transporting bulky equipment or tools to and
from venues or the workplace. Try toting YOUR mixing board,
instruments, audio racks and giant speakers by mule or on the local
ferry. I don't think so.
Fifteen minutes south
of Lagoa, the towns and countryside of Rio
Tavares and Campeche are lively and picturesque but are already in a
period of rapid growth and development and have experienced a
significant rise in property values, climbing annually. Even rural
acreage located in more remote locations to the north of Lagoa such as
Rio Vermelho (the best soil on the island) are not inexpensive.
If one is hoping for
amazing prices on land or houses in and around
Lagoa, Rio Tavares, Campeche, or the northern end of the island, don't
hold your breath. One should come to Lagoa because they love the
lifestyle, the beaches, the restaurants, proximity to Centro and great
nightlife. Come for the excitement -- the paragliding, the dune surfing
-- come for the fun, and if you want to buy a house, you can certainly
find great deals, depending on how much time you have, who you know,
and the exchange rates, but don't expect to find something great for
nothing. For deals like that on the island, your best bets are probably
the rural areas south of Armação. This end of the island
is considerably less developed, for now, presenting perhaps, better
investment opportunities in the long run, and you'll be well off the
beaten path.
There is also the
"gringo" factor. In a few cases, when realtors and/or
property owners figured out I was American, which happened more or less
as soon as I opened my mouth, the cost for properties (originally
listed without price) miraculously jumped 20 - 40%. One property owner
in Rio Tavares quoted me a price for his acreage at twice the market
value just to see if I'd take the bait. The realtors involved had no
interest in watching my back. Only Guga watched my back. Take my
advice. Be wary of realtors. Find someone whom you can trust, fluent in
both Brazilian Portuguese and English, with some knowledge of real
estate and have them broker the deal on your behalf.
After a few weeks of
searching in and around Lagoa, we hadn't yet found
the right piece of land at a reasonable price and so I decided to take
a break and travel south to Buenos Aires, Argentina, then back to Rio
de Janeiro and Buzios in Brazil. In the meantime, Guga decided to look
for parcels of land and send me photos via e-mail.
In preparing for this
trip, there were flights, hotels, pousadas, B
& B's, shuttles, taxis, and other details to coordinate, all of
which I entrusted to Guga's girlfriend, Camila Cintra who co-owns and
operates an event planning and travel agency in Florianopolis called
América do Sol -- Tel (48) 3224-7707 ( www.americadosol.com ).
Camila booked all flights, lodgings, and shuttles. She got me aisle
seats on all segments as requested, and ensured flight miles were
credited to frequent flyer airline partners in the USA (both of which I
had a much harder time doing on my own). Her skills, efficiency and
ability to speak English contributed to a flawless, smooth itinerary
and worry-free trip for me. Wanting to alter travel plans while in
Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro, I contacted her online. She responded
promptly by e-mail and took care of everything immediately. If you are
planning to travel anywhere in South America, Camila can get you
airline ticket prices and hotel rates as good or better than what you
can pre-book from the USA. She can book your flight on Brazilian or
domestic U.S. airlines providing international service. The best thing
is that once you're in South America, you have an ally whom can aid you
with new travel plans and/or alterations to current travel plans.
Camila provides a very high level of personal service often for less
than what you'd pay booking travel arrangements online, by phone or
with a travel agent here in the USA. Camila can be contacted online at
camila@americadosol.com
Buenos Aires, Rio de
Janeiro and Buzios were amazing. For those of you
into real estate purely as an investment, the area in and around the
Palermo district of Buenos Aires had amazing deals on residences and
commercial properties which will only continue to appreciate and pencil
cash flow positive as Argentina grows its economy. There is a growing
demand for leased urban housing and commercial space in this very cool
area of BsAs. But that is another conversation.
Buzios was a total
party experience and completely over the top in
every way... outrageously fun, and apparently somewhat dangerous, as
was the more infamous Rio de Janeiro (also another conversation). One
thing about Rio -- I love Ipanema and could live there in a New York
minute if I still wanted to live in a big city. One of the reasons I
was curious about Ipanema is its history as the seat of Bossa Nova.
Though not one to frequent tourist traps, I spent several evenings at
Garota da Ipanema, the cafe where Jobim wrote the famous tune (Girl
From Ipanema), and yes, I even bought the tee shirt.
My only sad moment in
Brazil was in discovering that Bossa Nova is not
strongly woven into the fabric of contemporary Brazilian pop music
culture. I had expected to hear it everywhere and often, yet heard it
hardly at all. Though beloved by many, particularly those of age in the
sixties when it was at its height, Bossa Nova, though resurgent from
time to time and in its own way, ever-present and ever-loved, has for
Brazil's youth culture, gone the way of the dinosaur. The youth are far
more enthralled with Brazilian hip-hop, American music, and MPB (Music
Popular Brazil).
No Brazilian would
ever deny Bossa Nova's beauty -- its uniquely
simple, luscious complexity, and though Brazilians revere the artists
whom brought this musical genre to life -- for many, their appreciation
is one of sentiment and national pride -- the stuff of museums. When
one considers the contemporary music scene in Brazil, for all practical
purposes, Bossa Nova has gone the way of velvet paintings, Bridget
Bardot, and Playboy After Dark. One Brazilero in Rio observed that
other than in Ipanema, I could probably get Bossa Nova gigs more easily
in American and European cities than one could in Brazil. Cruel irony
-- like finding out there's not one single chocolate chip cookie to be
had in the land of Keebler. "Oh yeah", spat the elf, like a little
green David Spade workin' his snotty, "We bake'm and ship'm but nobody
here actually eats them." With only six weeks left on my visa,
and a non-changeable, non-refundable plane ticket, it was time to go
back to Floripa and resume the search for land.
Returning to Lagoa, I
knew I wanted two things, a real apartment with a
kitchen so I could cook dinner at home -- and a car. The weather had
started to change -- growing cooler and wetter. I looked at several
pousadas all over Lagoa, and as it turned out, needed look no further
than next door to Duna Sol -- Tel (48) 3232-6666 (www.dunasol.com.br)
on Rua Veriador Osni Ortiga -- a pousada/resort with cabanas complete
with bedroom, bathroom with walk-in shower, kitchen with gas stove,
refrigerator, and a cozy, sunlit living room with big sliding glass
doors. The kitchens are well-stocked with pots, pans, etc. and whatever
you don't have and need, they find in minutes. Being one who loves to
cook Italian food and in particular, pasta or massa (MAH-suh) as the
Brazilians say -- for the first time since I'd left the USA, I had a
big saute pan and a gas stove. Bam!
I rented a cabana at
Duna Sol for a month at about R$750 (Reis or
Reals) which at the exchange rate during May 2005 was about $300 U.S.
per month or $10 per day U.S. (including utilities).
The cabanas are
arranged adjacently on either side of a narrow,
European-style street so guests with cars can pass. The entrance is
gated and observed from the lobby so only guests or their guests can
enter. The single street is like a friendly neighborhood which livens
up every weekend when guests fill any vacant cabanas. Given that I was
there during the fall, things were a little more tranquil. There were
fewer of us living there fulltime which made for a cozy, intimate
neighborhood. My Parisian neighbor across the way and his Brazilian
girlfriend were entertaining to say the least and the source of many
parties and gatherings and fabulous drama. It was through them that I
met my love, Patricia. As I write this article, we are applying for her
visa so she can join me in the United States.
Each cabana has a
television, though avid TV watchers will only find
American/English language channels in the lobby, which also has a
computer, convenient internet access and an assortment of beers, juice,
soft drinks and snacks that can be charged to your apartment. There is
also internet access available from the rooms. Duna Sol has a swimming
pool (which often served as my morning wake-up ritual), a small gym,
and party facilities -- a very nice banquet hall which offers a full
breakfast buffet every morning. From the rear of the property's
pleasant grounds, one can take a 20-minute hike through the dunes and
emerge onto a tranquil section of beach at Praia Joaquina. It's a
ten-minute walk up the beach to the restaurants, etc. Duna Sol is also
only a three-minute ride to Centrinho and has a great view of the lake.
It is also close to Rosen's, Rancho da Jackie, and Velho Tiene
Pizzaria... good inexpensive pizza.
Another excellent
feature about Duna Sol, however, is the owner, Bianca
Freitas whom lived in London for a time and speaks fluent English. Her
presence made life much easier, unraveling the little mysteries of
daily life and making them understandable in English. Accessible and
patient, she went out of her way to help guests non-fluent in Brazilian
Portuguese. Among other things, she helped me negotiate an auto rental
agreement with a man whom spoke only Brazilian Portuguese. His company,
Barcellos -- Tel (48) 9982-0173 (www.barcellos.net ) has the best cars
for the lowest prices in Lagoa. Several people I met whom were renting
cars from other rental agencies were often inconvenienced by mechanical
problems. I rented a 2-door Fiat Palio with low miles, for a month. It
ran very well and had no problems whatsoever. The rental cost for a
month including insurance and all fees was $950 reis or per May 2005
exchange rates, $385 US.
Bianca is also a
gifted chef with an interest in high end, gourmet
restaurants. She showed me several examples of profitable, exclusive
restaurants thriving all year round in Lagoa and Florianopolis. A
proven and successful caterer of special events in Florianopolis,
Bianca is considering partnership with foreign investors on a gourmet
restaurant in Floripa. If you have an eye on becoming an expat in
Florianopolis and/or making an investment in the Brazilian economy
(yielding the eventual benefit of a residency visa), Bianca Freitas is
a talented, hard-working entrepreneur with local and regional
connections, worthy of your attention. Bianca can be contacted at
HYPERLINK "mailto:bibicafreitas@hotmail.com" bibicafreitas@hotmail.com,
pousadadunasol (Skype), and HYPERLINK
"mailto:dunasol_floripa@hotmail.com" dunasol_floripa@hotmail.com for
MSN live chat. Inquiries regarding Cabanas Duna Sol can be sent to
dunasol@dunasol.com.br.
Ensconced in my new
digs at Duna Sol, the hunt for land was resumed
with Guga. We visited the parcels he had located while I was away and
they were very nice, but either not exactly what I wanted, or outside
what I considered reasonable in price.
Also it is important
to note that there are currently two different
types of property deeds in Brasil, particularly on the Island of Santa
Catarina. The more desireable of the two is called "Escritura
Pública" which is an official deed legally documenting one's
ownership of property whether one is a Brazilian citizen or the citizen
of another country. There are no loopholes or grey areas. Nobody can
emerge from the ethers ten years after you've built your house and
claim a historical familial attachment to the land. With Escritura
Pública -- you buy it, you own it.
The other type of deed
is called "Posse". If you're considering
purchasing property that is "posse", check its history back to the
original survey. Make sure there are no conflicts regarding ownership.
If everything is in order and there are no potential problems, the
property is considered "good posse". If there are grey areas and
potential for conflicts regarding ownership, access or easements, that
is considered "bad posse" "Good posse" properties, though a tad more
risky, are generally a safe bet and good investment. There is
legislation in process to re-designate all "posse"-designated property
to Escritura Pública status. Stay away from any property that
could be "bad posse". Due diligence is the key.
One day Guga and I
looked at a parcel in Rio Vermelho (ver-May-yoo) and
I commented on the adjacent parcel which was not for sale but had these
smooth, rounded, gargantuan rock formations. I had seen formations like
this on the coast, evoking images of Pterodactyls and the Flintstones.
Some of these beaches, fairly narrow, had thick tropical vegetation on
the inland side and hills climbing steeply up and away. Attempting to
relax in the sand, I'd keep one eye on the surf and the other
occasionally scanning the flora for velociraptors. Having had
nightmares following Jurassic Park, I didn't want to fall prey to the
creature that ate Jerry Seinfeld's mailman. If you saw the movie you
know the one. The spawn of Creature from the Black Lagoon and Caesar
Romero's Joker.
Be that as it may. I
loved those giant rock formations whose gargantuan
beauty dispelled any preoccupation with predators of primordial origin.
They weren't like the sharp, rugged coast of Maine with occasional
highlands that make you want to put on a sweater and eat mutton. These
were rounded and benign, easily traversed, sculpted smooth by aeons of
insistent surf. Now ancient and majestic, their shapes have long since
passed from harbingers of carnosaurs, to smooth stony bellies of
supine, laughing Buddhas.
"Aahhhhhhhhhh, Brad",
said Guga, "Garopaba (GA-roh-PAH-buh). You'll
want to check out Garopaba." A less developed, somewhat reclusive
cousin of Lagoa on the mainland approximately 40 minutes south of
Centro, Garopaba would have the big rocks and better prices.
Internationally renown as one of Brazil's finest surfing destinations
and like Lagoa, offering some of the country's best wind-surfing and
kite-surfing, Garopaba has etched its quiet reputation as a popular
travel destination, with three primary beaches, and several smaller
ones -- one of which is at the end of Garopaba's main avenue. A resting
place for fishing boats and a stroll beneath rolling hills crowned by
an ancient church. The beach opens up onto a broad inlet and the
Atlantic ocean. One friend of mine whom visited Garopaba commented that
it was what Santa Barbara might have looked like 60 years ago.
The main avenue offers
some restaurants and cafes with casual ambience
and good food. Other tourist amenities can be found including
cybercafes. New development is on the way, including a small, intimate
shopping destination with cafes and a multiplex.
The town of Garopaba
is a ten-to-fifteen-minute drive from the only
highway, BR 101, linking Porto Alegre in the south, to Florianopolis
due north. When the renovation and expansion of this highway are
complete, the trip from Garopaba to Centro should take considerably
less time.
The most famous beach
in Garopaba is Praia da Rosa (HO-suh), which
draws many surfers and young people. The atmosphere is festive and
casual, with a restaurant/bar overlooking the beach. The surrounding
area is a rolling hive of curvy gravel roads dotted with pousadas,
cafes and amenities geared toward the surfing crowd. Reggae, raves and
their associated cultural amenities are part of the local culture. This
area is also home to Brazil's leading manufacturer of surf gear,
apparel and accessories, Mormaii. Mormaii owns and operates a very cool
cafe next to its retail store on the main avenue in Garopaba.
Patricia and I set out
one fine morning to explore Garopaba. We both
immediately liked the quaint though up-and-coming, progressive vibe of
the town and drove around until a synchronous event -- an apparent
"coincidence", gave us pause at the entrance to a place selling parcels
of land, with water and electricity ready for each lot. Compelled, we
turned into the entrance until our car's passage was blocked by a gate.
Nobody was in sight so we parked and walked up the road, climbing a
hill, until we stopped and surveilled the valley and lake below. This
was very promising so we wrote down the phone number and continued on
through downtown Garopaba, past Garopaba Beach to the most upscale
neighborhood in the area, a promontory overlooking the Atlantic with a
few small parcels and more expensive-looking homes. Though this area
was both quaint and beautiful, it was also expensive -- Garopaba's
answer to Tiburon.
Returning to where
we'd parked and climbed the hill, we continued on by
car to Praia Ferrugem about 7 minutes up the road. Ferrugem was large
and open, fluid and changing with the tides. There were meandering
nooks and crannies. Private places and beautiful, giant rock
formations. We climbed a large one and observed the surf crashing
below. It was poetic -- a great place to set up an easel or write
Hemingway's next novel. We stood there silently for some time, holding
hands. It was pristine but the sun was going down and we wanted to see
Praia Silveira so off we went.
Praia Silveira is just
over the hill from where we'd parked and climbed
the hill earlier in that day. It was more of a neighborhood beach
tucked in between a pair of promontories -- narrower than Ferrugem,
with more traffic. Houses dotted the hills surrounding the beach.
Though not even remotely Tolkienesque, it felt a little Shire-like (but
with clambakes and internet access). This was getting interesting.
Back in Floripa, I
gave the phone number we'd written down, to Guga who
spoke (in Portuguese) to Emilio, the seller's agent and manager of what
is actually a low-key gated community with a clubhouse for parties and
community gatherings. Guga arranged a meeting and off we went to
Emilio's home office onsite. Greeting us at the gate, we followed
Emilio in our vehicle way up the hill (well past where Patricia and I
had walked) on nicely paved roads, to the highest road on the ridge,
upon which were several 1/2 acre lots for sale with amazing views of
the valley and lake below. It was awesome. Emilio pointed out a lot
with a gentle slope at the top, fairly easy to build on and that was
that. I knew this was my land. We settled on a price and set the deal
in motion.
With a little
paperwork and Guga's help, I acquired a Brazilian CPF
number which one must have to execute any type of financial transaction
in Brazil. It is similar to our social security or Tax ID number. It
requires a trip to the Brazilian Receita Federal, then Banco do Brasil
to pay a minimal fee, and then back to the Receita Federal to complete
the transaction and apply for a CPF card. Even without the card, just
having an assigned CPF number gives one the ability to buy or sell
property in Brazil.
The details of our
deal went quickly and smoothly, resulting in a trip
to the local Cartorio to meet Emilio, transfer the deed and pay the
requisite fees. I am now the happy owner of this beautiful land high on
a hill overlooking the valley and Lagoa Encantada (Enchanted Lake).
Behind me, up and over the hill, and a couple of minutes south, is
Praia Silveira.
Though my lot is only
half an acre (2000 sq. meters), it will easily
accommodate a nice sized home and studio, terraced vegetable gardens
and fruit trees, with room for a small pool and churrasco. The
topography is such that no matter how high my neighbor below decides to
build (within height restrictions of the community), I will never lose
the view of this beautiful valley. In spite of the lot's minimal size,
the vastness of the views make it feel really big. Oh and by the way,
my street address... the number... is "69". Good omen or what!
The transaction was
completed only days before my return flight to the
USA and I wait now for Patricia to join me here. We will remain here in
the USA awhile so I can grow a media publishing venture -- music,
animation and video-based. As things progress, I hope to start building
a home and studio on our hill in Garopaba and spend significant time
there every year.
I must share that I
could not have done this without Guga and paid him
a commission accordingly. He has since gone on to help other aspiring
expats with real estate forays in the area. For $50 per day US, against
commissions, Guga is available to assist with real estate acquisitions
in Florianopolis and Garopaba. He is also a native son of Sao Paulo and
familiar with that market. His fee includes finding properties within
your criteria and desired locale; accompanying you to look at those
properties or other properties you may have found on your own;
conveying questions to the seller and/or seller's agent; negotiating
your deal; helping you acquire appropriate permits, bank accounts, CPF
number, etc.; and transferring your documents at the Cartorio
(car-TOR-ee-oh). I highly recommend his services to anyone thinking
about real estate in or near Florianopolis and Garopaba. Guga can be
contacted at (48) 8822-4212 or realestate@brturbo.com.br
Brazil is growing and
developing its economy. The good news is that
though the country is developing its infrastructure and seeking its
place on the world economic stage, the Brazilians, culturally, don't
obsess 24/7 about "to-do" lists and work work work.... They don't
define themselves solely by their careers or assets. They know how to
slow down, set work aside, enjoy friends and family and live the life
tranquillo.
Brazil is edgy, spicy,
overt, and at times totally in your face. I saw
passion and ferocity -- humor, warmth and solidarity -- unbridled
sensuality, and much love and kindness. Brazil and her people look to
the future with wonder and enthusiasm.
So go see the
beautiful state of Santa Catarina, the Island of Santa
Catarina, the city of Florianopolis, the town of Lagoa da
Conceição, and just off the beaten path, the little surf
oasis of Garopaba. These areas offer promise to the entrepreneur and
adventurer. It's about finding your niche here and making a life. Now
is the time.
- to be continued in
next month's
issue of EscapeArtist Travel Magazine.
NOTE: IF YOU WANT TO RUN
THE WHOLE STORY IN THIS ISSUE, THERE ARE ABOUT 3000 MORE WORDS
Brad Leigh is a musician, media producer and
entrepreneur building a strawbale home and production studio in the
Sierra Nevada foothills of Northern California. Currently, he is
hanging by his fingertips from the roof because the dog knocked his
ladder down again. Stupid satellite dish. Damn dog. Can someone call
911?
© Brad Leigh 2006. All rights reserved.
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