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A verdant song of sirens comely and enchanting, a sweet, strapping howl ripe with promise and intrigue: those were the sounds that pulled me to Brazil last year. During the three months I was there, I bought a modest but majestic parcel of land and fell in love with a beautiful Brasilera. Previously, while visiting central Italy, I’d marveled at the simplicity of Italian lifestyle... its social inclusiveness, its lack of obsessive consumerism, the Italian sense of well-being regardless of socioeconomic strata. During my entire stay in Italy, not one Southern European asked me what I did for a living with the underlying (albeit unwitting) intention of putting me in a "box" -- a category -- deeming me fit or unfit for their company and presumed place in an unspoken pecking order subscribed to by so many Americans. In southern Europe, nobody cared about your job, or one's imagined "station" in life, and it was delightful -- their social fabric spun from belonging, inclusiveness, community and the sort of unconditional acceptance one does not find easily in the USA. I'd thought about moving to Italy but real estate in Tuscany and points south to the sea, was very expensive. The ascent and exchange value of the Euro have made these properties even less affordable for Americans. Returning home from Italy had been major culture shock, being immersed once again in the land of the Jones'...  one and all hard pressed to "keep up" in a republic whose cultural identity is derived, individually, from our possessions, our respective net worth and capacity to consume -- versus identity derived from critical thinking, the realm of ideas, inspiration and the stirrings of our souls. In the aftermath of Italy and its cozy inclusiveness, it was difficult readjusting to the more Darwinian sensibilities of life in the USA. With the exception of Rio, the references I'd heard to Brazil were virtually all about the north -- Bahia, Salvador, Natal -- hot, tropical jungle and coastline proffering untamed delights. On few occasions however, I encountered travelers returning from the south of Brazil whose social experiences were similar to my own in Italy. But in Brazil, unlike Tuscany, land was said to be affordable. I was told the south of Brazil and in particular, the state of Santa Catarina was a melting pot with beautiful beaches, a curious mix of Brazilians and Europeans, with a growing economy -- a place in which one could make a life.  Maybe it was North America’s dubious state of the union, or the promise of a semi-tropical, fruit-laden paradise. Maybe it was (my being a musician) a love of Bossa Nova and the works of late Brazilian composer Tom Jobim -- his genius revered (for me), in the same breath as Einstein, the Beatles and Stevie Wonder. Magical intersections of humanity and God's toolbox.  Maybe it was all of these things or maybe it was just the sirens' call afterall, a primordial throb. bountiful, ripe and rooted. If Maui is truly the heart of the Great Mother, then Brazil is surely her glorious bunda, though some might argue, her vibrant cleavage, humid and glistening. A briny, savory mist crossing oceans in the guise of salt air and landing at my front door. Spurred by such a compelling invitation, and through a series of what can only be described as synchronous events (an entirely different conversation), all roads pointed south to the Island of Santa Catarina and the city of Florianopolis (flor-ee-uh-NAHP-o-liss) also known as Floripa (flor-REE-puh). In March 2005, I arrived on a 90-day visa with the intention of staying three months to explore the area and if all felt right, buy land. I had brought all the documentation required for the transaction including birth certificate translated into Portuguese and certified with apostle.  My path took me straight to the town of Lagoa, one of many beach towns on the Isand of Santa Catarina. Laid back, peaceful, relaxing, and blessed with wonderful nightlife, the town of Lagoa is only a fifteen-minute ride by car to the city of Florianopolis whose downtown is also known as Centro (SEN-troo). Florianopolis is a thriving, compact city with beautiful salt-water views, nice restaurants, plenty of shopping, movie theaters, and a great public market. If you are going to land in Centro and need a hotel for a few nights prior to finding more permanent digs, I recommend Hotel Ibis (about $38 US per night). It has the best combination of amenities, cleanliness, value, location and a pretty good buffet if you don't feel like eating out. Ask for a room as high as possible with views of the bridge and water. Though I did spend time in Centro, my home base for three months (with the exception of a side trip to Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro and Buzios) was the town of Lagoa da Conceição -- Lagoa (La-GO-uh) for short, whose quaint, easy downtown, also known as Centrinho (sen-TREEN-oo) is surrounded by beautiful beaches or praias (PRY-uh) and a beautiful lake, the town's namesake -- Lagoa da Conceição (con-SAY-sau). The first order of business was finding a place to live and transportation to explore the island. There are many motels and B&B's, referred to as pousadas (poo-SAH-duh), in and around Lagoa. The more expensive variety are located in Centrinho or near the beaches or situated around the lake, but deals can be found during the off-season (mid-March through November), particularly if you rent by the month. Prices come way down renting by the month. Less expensive accommodations can be found in nearby Barra da Lagoa (tudo coisas boa). I landed at Pousada Assefaz on Lagoa da Conceico, a 3-minute ride to Centrinho, renting a hotel-style room on a per-night basis for about $14 (US) per night which included a buffet-style breakfast. The view of the lake was great from the hotel rooms and dining room. The staff were very friendly, but the hotel-style rooms were very noisy, particularly in the morning. Assefaz is a conference center so it's geared somewhat to the business community. Lot's of early risers and morning traffic on Rua Vereador Osni Ortega, close to the main building. Also -- very important -- none of the staff at Assefaz spoke fluent English. Though I do think it's important to learn Brazilian Portuguese if you're going to spend significant time in Brazil, I found as an English-speaker, that it is VITAL to have someone onsite at your residence or hotel whom can speak English and help you navigate important issues like transportation, banking, laundry, directions, phone system, postal services, internet services, etc. It will save you hours of frustration, wasting time, dealing with what would ordinarily be effortless, mundane tasks in the USA. You'll also learn more about the local culture from someone whom lives there yet literally speaks your language. There are several places to rent cars in Florianopolis, but I had arrived at the very end of summer and there was plenty of hot sunny weather to be had so I wanted a motorcycle and was referred to a rental shop called Locomotos at 1462, Av. das Rendeiras (hen-DEE-rus) -- Tel (48) 3232-1717, very close to Centrinho and conveniently on the way to the beautiful beaches of Lagoa www.locomotos.com.br. For a single passenger, the Honda Biz KS 100cc is a great and economical way to tour the island. Reasonable speed and power for the San Francisco-like hills between Lagoa and Florianopolis and a handy storage space for windbreaker and a few small personal items. There is a larger model if you want more speed and power. I rented the bike for a month and it was a great value. - Article Continued Below -

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It was at Locomotos that I met the shop's proprietor, a very amiable fellow named Gustavo Tarikian... known to friends and associates as Guga (GOO-guh).  An entrepreneur with interests in a variety of businesses, Guga, like many Floripa residents originally from Sao Paulo, speaks fluent English. He has also lived in the USA and understands our popular culture very well. In a matter of days, Guga became my friend and ally, translator and associate. His knowledge and service were instrumental in my hunt for acreage and eventual acquisition of a land parcel south of Florianopolis on the coastal mainland in a little surf town called Garopaba. 

He and his wonderful girlfriend, Camila welcomed me into their home, introduced me to their friends, invited me to parties, gatherings and nights out on the town and made me feel entirely welcome in their country -- introducing me to the Brazilian pastime known as churrasco (shoo-HA-scoo) where friends get together at someone's home and pass the time, drinking and eating delicious slow-cooked meats and side dishes. These gatherings were some of my favorite times in Brazil. We would play music and visit into the wee hours with occasional late night forays to the beach.

With Guga's directions, I set off to explore the Island of Santa Catarina, the city of Florianopolis and all the surrounding beach towns. The northern end of the island is by far the most affluent and developed area. The western side of the island, facing inland, and northern coastal areas offer many places to stay and very tranquil surf, a favorite destination for families with young children. Parents can rest easy on bay beaches with waves no more unwieldy than a kiddie pool. The Argentines have been flocking to this part of the island for years. There are many seafood restaurants offering a variety of delights at very reasonable prices. Yachts and sailboats dot the seascape.

The northern end of the island is wonderful to visit, with beautiful vistas and tourist destinations. My favorite places were Brava and Ponta Das Canas. Jurere (joo-roo-RAY) [soft "j" as in Taj Mahal], Ingleses (een-GLAY-zez) and Santinho (san-CHEE-no) are also popular, busy destinations with large resorts and noticeable affluence. Jurere is the Beverly Hills... the Scarsdale of the island. Daniela is nice too. 

Though I enjoyed my visits to this part of the island, it was somewhat upscale and insulated for my tastes which run a little more wild and bohemian. I like the raging surf and edgier ambiance one finds on the central, eastern side of the island, particularly in Lagoa which has a youthful, athletic, adventurous culture. Lagoa boasts great places for traditional surfing, wind-surfing, kite-surfing, hang-gliding, para-gliding and dune surfing. The culture in Lagoa feels more plugged in... turned on... not as sedate as the northern end of the island. Lagoa is closer to the university and Centro so there are more students which add to its relaxed though freewheeling lifestyle and active nightlife.

One place I really liked however, on the west side of the island was the town of Santo Antonio de Lisboa.  Entering town on its sole main street, there are a series of quaint restaurants and shops overlooking the water. At the very end of the main drag, across the street from a park-like piazza is a little shack packed with locals sitting around picnic tables overlooking the bay. It's an oyster shack. You can choose raw or steamed with all manner of condiments. They serve cold beer and the infamous Caipirinha (kai-pe-REEN-yuh)... a drink made with sugar cane liquor called Caçhaca (kah-SHAH-suh), mixed with sugar, crushed lime and ice. I went to this little haven several times to eat oysters and get drunk with the locals, none of whom spoke a lick of English. It afforded the opportunity to practice Brazilian Portuguese and make new friends. When the guy in the shack ran out of oysters, he'd wade out into beds and fill his buckets. Talk about fresh! -- and inexpensive too.

Brazil is all about beach life and no beach is more popular in Lagoa than Praia Mole (MO-lee) with its comfortable sand, strong surf and juice or sucos (SOO-kohs) bars. Açai (Ah-sy-EE) is a very popular juice in Brazil -- a favorite for breakfast. When prepared well it is thick and icy cold like berry sorbet and eaten with a spoon. Loaded with antioxidants and Amazonian nano-vitality, Açai is an amazing cure for hangovers. It is (unlike Lucky Charms) actually magically delicious. There is nothing quite so refreshing as sitting on Praia Mole with an icy cool cup of Açai, people-watching. The views are easily on par with those of Ipanema and Copacabana.

For those into a more natural approach to the great outdoors, just north of Praia Mole is Praia Galheta (ga-LEE-tuh) which is clothing optional. North of Galheta is Praia Moçambique (moh-sam-BEE-kee)... a long, remote stretch of beach less crowded than Praia Mole.

Lagoa's other beach is Praia Joaquina (jua-KEE-nuh) which has a different sort of ambiance. At Joaquina's main entrance, there are several shops and casual sit-down restaurants with nice views of the beach and ocean vista. The lightly batter-fried fish appetizer at the main restaurant rocks. A five-minute walk in a southerly direction toward Campeche, takes one away from the busy entrance to more tranquil sections of the beach.

For Americans, depending on your dietary habits, cuisine in southern Brazil can be a natural fit, or require some adjustments. If you like meat and potatoes, or fish, you're good to go. In the south of the Brazil, carne is king. They love eating meat. Fish and seafood are also abundant, popular and prepared in a variety of ways. Starchy vegetables like potatoes predominate. Carrots, beets and tomatoes are everywhere. Cucumbers make an appearance from time to time. Lettuce tends toward a mild, leafy iceberg variety. If you're into a big selection of greens including spinach, kale, chard, and cabbages like bok choy and Napa, you may be challenged to find these easily with the exception of arugula -- the bitter, flavorful green which is popular and bountiful. In Brazil, the culinary emphasis is on the carne and the fish or seafood. The vegetables seem more of an afterthought. Brazilians derive much of their raw fiber from fruit, which is abundant and delicious. Though there are three good supermarkets in Centrinho -- for items like fresh mushrooms and a wider assortment of vegetables, drive 15 minutes to the giant Angeloni supermarket on Beira Mar Norte. Don't expect a Whole Foods experience, just the best selection of produce to be found in the area. There are Angeloni markets elsewhere in Centro too. 

Check out the sucos bars not just in Florianopolis, but all over Brazil. One can easily make a morning meal of Açai. The other juice varieties and combinations are delicious and refreshing.

If you like big breakfasts, you'll love pousadas whose price includes a bountiful buffet-style breakfast of hot and cold items. For me this was not so important as I preferred to frequent the cafes in Centrinho where one can get a great cup of coffee and a variety of pastries and sandwiches -- variations on a panini. In the heart of Centrinho, there is a Texaco station (posto) with several traditional cafes and internet cafes nearby. During the week in the morning, these cafes are relatively quiet, but fill with patrons in the late afternoon. I generally went to Rocambole, the first of four adjacent cafes and a newstand, sharing outside seating and a very social environment. On the weekend, it is lively and crowded all day. Anyone of these cafes is fine for a light, quick breakfast, but my favorites are just a few blocks from here. Pain du Soleil (walking toward Centro from the Texaco) offers great coffee, French pastries and sandwiches. It is operated by Jean-Marc and his wife. Jean-Marc is from St. Tropez and speaks both French and Brazilian Portuguese. He is also gifted with tile. If you should decide to buy and remodel a home or build a home in the area, check out his work. It is beautiful and he has photos. Jean-Marc speaks some English and likes talking to Americans. He is a gracious host. Pain du Soleil offers covered outdoor seating and off-street parking. Luna Laguna (walking toward the bridge from Texaco) fronts the Via Lagoa Shopping Center and also offers great drinks, pastries, snacks and a lively outdoor terrace. 

Lunch can be had anywhere. I preferred the lunch buffets where one can always find rice, arugula, sometimes cilantro or another green I have yet to identify, tomatoes, and of course meat and fish, along with a variety of stews and potato dishes. Not a huge lover of beans, I didn't eat a lot of Feijoada, a national dish. It's a stew made with black beans and a variety of meats. Though delicious, it is rich and heavy-- something I'd eat after hiking fifty miles in the Arctic, or on a Sunday afternoon curled up on the couch watching the NFL -- quasi nap-time.  The buffets provide the best value and the most variety for lunch. They ensure you'll get your green, leafy vegetable fix on a daily basis if you're eating out a lot.

There are lunch buffets in and around Lagoa. One of the most popular is Rancho da Jackie on the road from Lagoa to Rio Tavares and Campeche. Leaving Centrinho, the road is called Rua Vereador Osni Ortega. As you drive south past the end of Lagoa da Conceição (the actual lake), it is about two minutes up the road on your right side. While many buffets charge by the kilo, Rancho da Jackie is "all you can eat" (buffet livre). It is very popular with locals and tourists alike and a good value. 

On the way to Rancho da Jackie, also on the right, is Rosen's -- a wonderful indoor/outdoor cafe great for breakfast, lunch or a light dinner. The owner's name is Carmen. She speaks English and is very personable. On Monday nights, she hosts a different guest chef who cooks a sit-down gourmet dinner for guests. It's a wonderful place to eat great food and meet new people. I met several English speakers there. 

Pizza also rules in Florianopolis. There's lots of it everywhere in Lagoa. My favorites are Pizza Na Pedra in Centrinho and on the other side of the lake on Rua Laurindo Januario da Silveira -- Nave Mãe and Basilico. Also on the other side of the lake is a Mediterranean restaurant called Villa Magionne with great food and romantic ambience on the lake's edge. 

Rua Afonso Delambert Neto is a street in Centrinho full of restaurants and bars. At night it is busy with young locals and tourists. An upstairs restaurant called Peperoni hosts a pizza buffet. You pay one price and they come to your table every few minutes with different kinds of pizza which they serve by the slice. It's another all-you-can-eat deal. They even serve dessert pizza -- bananas 'n chocolate was great! The upstairs deck has a nice view of the street below. If you're in the mood for carne, across the street is Confraria Chopp da Ilha. All the restaurants and bars on this street are great for people-watching and making friends during the evening. On weekends it rocks till the wee hours.

My favorite Churrascos were at the homes of friends. Lagoa da Conceição and Centro Florianopolis did not appear to have an abundance of great churrasco restaurants or Churrascarias (shoo-hahs-KAIR-uh) -- certainly not as good as Rio de Janeiro nor the amazing assados of Buenos Aires, Argentina. My favorite Churrascaria-style buffet in Centro Florianopolis was Texano Grill at the Beira Mar Shopping Mall, a great place to catch dinner prior to a movie. 

No conversation about Lagoa would be complete without some words about nightlife. Any of the beaches are romantic on a warm summer night... and for such a cozy town, there are many choices for clubs and music. In Centrinho, Confraria (con-fra-REE-uh) das Artes www.confrariadasartes.com is probably my favorite. There is a dance floor with DJ and nice bar, but also a separate area with couches and overstuffed chairs where you can sit in intimate groups and actually hear yourselves talk. Great ambiance, great club. Latitude 27 (La-ti-TOO-jee) is high above the lake with beautiful views www.latitude27.com.br. From Centrinho, it is on the road to Praia Mole on your left near the top of the hill. The outdoor deck is huge, great DJ, big party. For live music, Drakkar (dra-KAR) in Centrinho is great www.bardrakkar.com.br as well as John Bull Pub which features a lot of American-sounding rock bands. If you're heading into Centro, El Divino (dee-VEEN-yoo) on Beira Mar Norte is a dance club and dining experience with an upscale vibe www.eldivinobrasil.com.br. It's fun, but for a more inclusive, casual vibe, check out the Scuna (SCOO-nuh) Bar www.guiafloripa.com.br/scunabar. Great bands and a great crowd, more thirties and forty-somethings and when the band plays tunes that are popular in Brazil, the whole crowd -- EVERYBODY sings! I love this! Be forewarned, if you go to any nightclubs in Brazil before 10 pm or so, they'll be empty. The clubs don't really get going until 11 or 11:30 pm.
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