The
Heart of Java
By Chris
Andre Sutanto
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Cities around the world offer all kinds
of indulgences. You will find beautiful panoramic views, historical monuments,
and warm, welcoming people. What if there’s one city that provides
more? One unique and old Javanese city, Yogyakarta (pronounced as “Jog-jah-car-ta”),
has it all. It’s believed to be one of Indonesia’s best, but little known,
getaways, since the city is simply a mixture of traditional Javanese culture,
complete with its daunting mystique, and Dutch heritage. The city might
not look as extravagant as Bali, but don’t be fooled by the humble appearance
of this heart of Java. So, pack your bags and prepare to peruse the city’s
religious heritage, arts, and monarchy.
Street
in Yogyakarta
 Yogyakarta
is a fascinating “mosaic” in terms of its religious heritage. Religious
signatures can be traced easily from magnificent temples scattered on Yogyakarta’s
corners. Borobudur temple, the biggest Buddhist temple in the world stands
as a mark of Buddhist teachings rooted deeply during Syailendra Dynasty’s
reign (around the year of 800s). Needless to say, it’s a must for travelers
to stop by on their visit to the city.
Prambanan temple, another interesting
tourism site, stands out as a stronghold for another religion, which is
Hindu. Both temples, in fact, have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage
Sites. Also, there is one special building in the outskirts of Yogyakarta
that symbolizes an integrated combination between Christianity and Javanese
customs. As you take a glimpse of Ganjuran Jesus Sacred Heart Church, you
will notice the intriguing yet beautiful statue in front of it. It’s a
statue of Mary carrying Baby Jesus, dressed in Javanese clothing.
The further you venture into the
building, the more you feel bewildered by the statues and the ornaments
of the church. It is definitely a fusion of more than just one influential
custom. There is a statue of Jesus in the church dressed in a way resembling
a Hindu monk. Meanwhile, Dutch and Javanese architectural style dominate
the building adornment. The atmosphere of the church suddenly changes to
complete solemnity as the Mass starts by opening with gamelan music. Hundreds
of parishioners flock in and struggle to find a place to sit cross legged
on the floor in traditional Javanese style. You might find the rich multiculturalism
difficult to comprehend. However, all of the differences effortlessly diffuse
into one united mass as the parishioners sing out their praise to their
only single God.
Making
Batik
 Arts
and Yogyakarta are two things that are inseparable. Just scour the
narrow alleys there and you will find dozens of women holding a piece
of cloth in one hand and a canting (a pen-like instrument that discharges
ink to the cloth) in the other. Sometimes they’re making some dots, while
some other times they’re following a pattern. What they’re doing actually
is making Batik cloth, a treasure of Indonesian textile industry. Batik
clothes are worn particularly on formal occasion or by the sovereigns (in
this case the Sultan). You can also see Batik clothes on shadow puppet
shows, which are very popular in Yogyakarta. Forget about cinema, forget
about theatre; shadow puppets do not need any kinds of special effects
in each performance. All that is needed is a white screen as the stage,
one dalang (a puppeteer), and some leather puppets. Thestory is presented
to the audience in the form of shadows. The stories are those of Mahabarata,
Hanoman, and so on. It is possible that you’ll encounter some language
difficulties if you don’t understand the native Javanese language but the
universal theme of the shows is good triumphing over evil.
Another not to be missed attraction
for the visitor is a trip to Serangan village to see how keris, a
magical knife, is forged. Throughout the ages, keris has become a mystery
for modern citizens since it is believed that a spirit resides inside the
weapon. Keris is highly symbolic in Javanese culture as the form
and usage define the owner’s status. All Sultans (Yogyakarta governors)
always have at least one tucked in their belt.
For contemporary art lovers, Yogyakarta
is home to the Affandi Museum which proudly exhibits the works of Affandi’s,
a master of Indonesian impressionist paintings. His works are best known
as the reflections of Indonesia’s national identity. His sharp brush strokes
and variety of colors distinguish his work as some of the best examples
of impressionist paintings in the world. If you love arts, you’ll
love Yogyakarta.
Finally, what makes Yogyakarta unique
and different to other cities in Indonesia is its governmental system.
Yogyakarta still maintains monarchy by putting the Sultan, the king of
Kraton Yogyakarta, as the ruler of the city. The current Sultan that has
reigned over Yogyakarta since 1988 is Hamengkubuwono X. TIME magazine,
once, promoted this Sultan as a hero of democracy in Indonesia. He had
also been regarded as the living embodiments of Javanese culture and a
demigod in the eyes of his public. As a tourist, you can visit the Kraton,
his palace, which opens daily at 8.30 am to 1.00 pm.
You will not meet the Sultan face
to face, but you can get to know him by talking to the abdi, the abiding
servants. These humble servants are chosen by the Sultan to serve until
the end of their lives. In Kraton, you may also observe Sultan’s
private property, like his keris, horse-drawn carriages, and many other
things. Continue your walk and stop at Taman Sari, the ruined Water Castle.
This place was built as a playground for the first Sultan in 1765, consisting
of a vast outdoor bathtub and a tower where the Sultan used to spy on his
harems bathing. Being in Kraton, leaves no doubt about how powerful and
revered Sultan is by his public. While the rest of Indonesia has turned
their heads and worshiped Republic government system, Yogyakarta monarchy
stays the same. It has survived through the ages and remains faithful to
Yogyakarta’s citizens.
After a whole day tour in Yogyakarta,
you will have been able to grasp how rich Javanese culture is. Old and
immense temples still stand tall as fundamental monuments of religious
heritage. While Yogyakarta’s arts vary from Batik clothes, shadow puppet
shows, Keris, and Affandi’s paintings, these cultural treasures would not
have existed if there weren’t great Sultan taking care of the city. The
monarch system proves to be efficient for the citizens of Yogyakarta. If
there any city that offers more than attractive view, historical sites,
and hearty citizens it has to be Yogyakarta which looks forward to welcoming
you.
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