|
Dear Editor,
I came over
to Asia in August of 1998 to teach for the University of Maryland's Asian
division. They sent me to Korea for two terms. In January of 1999, they
moved me to Tokyo. I got promoted a couple of times and since this is our
headquarters, I have been here ever since. Teaching for UMUC - Asia has
been a great experience. It gives me the best of all worlds. I live in
Tokyo, work from home unless I am teaching a class or having a meeting,
and hold a military ID, which allows me to shop on base. Our purpose is
to teach the American military at the many bases in Asia. As buying anything
in Japan is very expensive, it is great to be able to shop at the bases
(which are like little Americas). I only buy things like milk, bread, and
eggs off base. To give you an idea of the price difference, a package of
spaghetti costs around 79 cents on base and around 660 yen ($6.00) off
base.
My Japanese
boyfriend and I live together. We met a bit over two years ago and things
are good. Of course, he is not the typical Japanese man. He actually cleans
the house, does all of the dishes, and will even do laundry without being
asked to. The typical Japanese man does no housework - that is for women
:-)
I like Bali
the best of all of the countries I have been to over here so far because
the Balinese people are genuinely friendly and Bali is so beautiful. I
go there quite a bit and have made friends with a number of Balinese. Unlike
other 3rd world countries, Bali seems to have a middle class. Of all of
the Asian countries, it is Bali and Japan in which I feel the safest (as
a woman). I do have to say that Japan is the safest though. Here, I can
walk down a street at 3 in the morning if I wish to without any problems.
There are areas of Bali in which I would hesitate to do that. Bali would
be the absolutely best place in the entire world if it was only not so
close to Jakarta. The owner of the Hard Rock and I were talking one night
(he is a great guy!) and his place got robbed. They were there in bed and
the robbers who came up from Jakarta held him at knife point. Very scary!
When I do go there, I rent a house and have a security guard. I know that
this all sounds very expensive, but I only have to compare it to living
in Tokyo, the most expensive city in the world and things go into perspective.
I've not heard
what it is like to live in Spain or Brazil, but just knowing the little
I do know, Brazil is not a safe place. I would think that there are places
in Spain that are good. I have only been to Europe as a tourist (Germany,
Austria, and Switzerland), so I don't know a whole lot. We do have a European
division and many of our faculty members have lived in Europe. One place
that keeps coming up in conversation as wonderful is Turkey, but right
now, I wouldn't recommend it.
Tokyo is wholeheartedly
into Latin music. There are a lot of clubs here. If you do choose to come
through, I would be happy to show you around.
Benefits
of living in Japan:
-
You can choose
to live in the city or the mountains or the rice paddy villages, depending
on your work.
-
Tokyo is one of
the best cites in the world. It is about the size of NYC with Manhattan
and the boroughs - huge!
-
It has areas and
neighborhoods like NY. Each is different.
-
Japan is the safest
place in the world for a woman.
-
The Japanese people
are very friendly, shy, but friendly.
-
Many, many Japanese
speak English, especially if they work for a large international company.
-
The food is good
and if you are in a city, varied as to nationality. I can get Korean, Thai,
French, Italian, German, etc.
-
The Japanese love
green things so there are parks every where.
-
You don't need
to own a car as the trains will bring you every where you want to go.
-
There is a huge
expat community in the large cities of Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and Yokohama.
Negatives
-
It is expensive.
-
It is difficult
to get a job here unless you speak Japanese or come in with a foreign company.
Dear Editor,
I went to Beirut
for 10 days in April and I loved it there. I would like to live there
if the knuckle-head would quit shooting up the country. And it is
a beautiful place! My choice would be Broumana, Lebanon. It
is about 2500 feet above Beirut, it is cooler and dryer, and has fabulous
views "everywhere".
The people
were 'fabulous' and very friendly to me even though we have the Bush bull-shit
going on in the Middle East. They 'love' Americans! I felt
honored and respected. The environment, the people, the food, the
Mediterranean, the snow-capped mountains (which are one hour away from
the sea) are just lovely. For me, it is the perfect spot on this
earth. . . except for the damn fighting!!!
I saw a large
3 bedroom apartment (built of lovely cut stone!) with two very large balconies
(one has a view of the Mediterranean Sea and Beirut) for $650 a month and
I really wanted to sign a lease on the spot (hahaha). Anyway
that's my story...
Leno
|
House
Hunting in Natal, Brazil
|
Dear Editor,
I came to Brazil
in order to sell my house in Rio because my mother has decided she is too
old to live here alone. So, now I need to fly to another state to
buy a house in Natal-Rio Grande do Norte. I am not sure if you know
that part of Brazil. My mother is from there and she wants to get
back!
Natal is gorgeous.
It began its huge developmental growth a few years ago because of the Europeans.
Natal receives the largest amount of Germans, Italians, and French people
of all the cities of Brazil. Needless to say most Germans use our
young poor Brazilian girls and have the euro to purchase huge houses in
front of the ocean. It is sad!
I love Natal
and wish that these Germans would have a bit more of consideration towards
children. Natal is also poorer than Rio because have less job opportunities
and most people have no education. However, they are at least as
happy as they are poor. People from Natal are even more friendly
than people from Rio. You would love that part of Brazil for sure.
Whenever you
decide to purchase a house in Brazil you need to consider location and
social class. Unfortunately this is true all over Brazil. For
example, I am going to Natal tomorrow, and am looking to purchase a house
close to a mall, beach and public transportation because my dear mother
is an old timer and here in the olden days women didn't drive.
I have found
several two bedroom apartments near the best beach for R$ 100,000 reais
and if I take the time to look, I will be able to find one even cheaper.
If you come with CASH you will be in a position to make SERIOUS real deals.
This is what I am going to do now with $65,000 in cash.
Natal is absolutely
gorgeous - very different in nature from Rio. Warmer and rustic in
many ways. People there are simple but you can find snobby people anywhere
in Brazil.
If you are
serious about purchasing something in Natal I may be able to help you.
Never mention you are from the US and always ask for a discount. A true
Brazilian always gets a discount into everything they buy. Even when
my mother goes to buy bananas she still requests a discount.
I am leaving
Rio today and am going on a one week house hunting adventure. I am
very excited but a little sad to abandon Rio de Janeiro. Although
Rio has become more dangerous than ever I still love it.
Right now our
house maid is cooking in the kitchen singing her ass out loud and all the
dogs barking outside, meanwhile my mother yells at the phone. It
is so hard even to read in the morning. The only quiet time I find is when
I go to the beach and ignore what everyone is saying and fall asleep.
I have lived in the US for the past 10 years and believe it or not, I have
forgotten some of our traditions and how loud Brazilians can be.
I am happy to be here and to re-discover myself. Life in Brazil is
definitely different than any other place I’ve been. Like Romans
we love to be loved and to show our love and it is wonderful to be able
to live life this way!
My husband
and I are planning to come back in one year to purchase our house in Natal,
they have lots of virgin beach still and I want to built a house with an
open roof so I can make love in the full moon --- heheheeh! The pleasures
of being Brasilian.
tchau-tchau!
Mari
|
The
Merits of Living in Brazil vs. Europe
|
To the Editor,
I like Brazil
more than Europe. Have you considered living in Sao Paulo? What are the
qualities you look for in a country? I am originally from India. I live
in the States, but am preparing to move to another country in one year.
I am looking closely at both Sao Paulo, Brazil and Mexico City. So where
are you? - Charles
Dear Charles,
I am in
Istanbul and like it very much.
Your comments
on aging population demographics were very interesting and have me thinking...I
myself am aging (aren't we all?), so to belong to a community that does
not value its elders does not appeal to me. And conversely, perhaps that
is what I like about places that seem more "sophisticated" such as Buenos
Aires.
That said,
I did notice about Brazil that there is little ageism - that you can find
as many old people out living it up as young.
There's
another aspect of place which plays a big part in whether I am attracted
to a place or not, and that is its architecture. Being around beautifully
designed buildings makes me happy. In Brazil I found both furnishings and
buildings to be uninspiring. The houses seemed to be mostly colonial boxlike
structures with small windows. Perhaps to guard against the heat - and
at one time, pirates? - Editor
Dear Editor,
I think there
are some countries that have relatively old populations such as Japan and
most of Western Europe but this not necessarily an indication that seniors
are treated well. Brazil and most Asian countries have relatively young
populations but seniors are less isolated than in the US.
Then again,
the notion of extended families living under one roof is something that
most Americans do not necessarily want.
Yes, Brazilians
do make fewer distinctions between age groups, races, and gender orientations
than do Americans. I think this is partly because identity group politics
is a much bigger deal in the US and affects the way we identify ourselves
and others. I suppose you could argue that class-based divisions are the
more important driving/dividing force in Latin America.
I actually
believe that there are some American characteristics that work against
our adjusting well to living abroad. The main thing could be the
incredible affluence and related waste that we take for granted in the
US. The other thing is the fact that many Americans do not feel comfortable
with foreign languages. The American sense of exceptionalism and the value
we place on privacy and both physical and emotional space also gets us
into trouble when we are abroad. I find myself adjusting my sense of privacy
and space when I am overseas. I actually think that Europeans adjust better
overseas because for them traveling to other countries has never been a
big deal given the size of Europe, and also because many European countries
have a long colonial tradition.
My take on
Brazilian architecture is a bit different than yours. Most Brazilians in
large cities live in flats rather than houses. Americans, except
for those in NYC, love their big houses in the suburbs. I have never
lived in a suburb myself so I fail to see the attraction. Colonial architecture
reflects the climate with thick walls and small windows because glass and
heating were very expensive at the time.
Preserved colonial
towns like Ouro Preto are quite beautiful because you have the sense that
people are still living very traditional lives and there is very little
motorized traffic. In contrast, the modern apartments of my Brazilian friends
are much nicer and sleeker than any of the overpriced junk I see in SF.
For example, in Salvador I lived in a four bedroom apartment with two balconies,
high ceilings, hardwood floors, marble kitchens and baths, and indoor parking.
I had modern furniture, art, etc that I had also purchased in Brazil.
Rio and Sao
Paulo have spectacular modern houses and apartments, even though they are
only bargains in comparison to prices in the SF Bay Area. Both Oscar
Niemeyer in the 1990's and Paulo Mendes de Rocha in 2006 won the Pritzker
Prize in architecture which is sort of the Nobel Prize in that profession.
Most of my architect friends in SF complain constantly about the local
resistance to modern architecture and design. I am amazed at the number
faux Victorians still being put up in SF. Give me a modern apartment
with a glass-bottomed indoor pool cantilevered over the living room such
as I once saw in Rio.
I think the
real choice for Americans wanting to live abroad without external support
is choosing between places that are great to visit(Paris, Istanbul, Rome,
Vienna, etc) and those places where it is actually possible to live reasonably
and make a living.
A place you
may not have considered is Tangiers. At one time it had 50K expats,
mainly French and such American luminaries as the author Paul Bowles.
Upscale tourism seems to be booming in Morocco and I cannot pick up a design
magazine without seeing another foreigner fixing up a spectacular house
in Marrakech. A friend of mine had spent time in Tangiers in the 1960's
and returned there recently for a visit and found the prices reasonable.
- Charles
Dear Charles,
As for
Brazil, I've spent a lot of time there and have come to the conclusion
that yes, I could live in Brazil quite happily - if only it had just a
tad more intellectual weight. My favorite thing in the world is books...does
anyone in Brazil read? Maybe, maybe not, but my second favorite thing is
music, and Brazil is definitely about music.
There are
a couple other things that give me pause about Brazil - the gender
thing for one. I happen to love the way that women are women in Brazil,
but I also happen to hate the way that so many Brazilian women are on the
block for 1st world Western men.
I believe
that Brazil is a rising economic power, and rightly so. But the crime (which
makes living in a freestanding house, not to mention walking alone late
at night, a scary prospect), along with the lack of folks who like to read,
learn, discover the world, and number three (and believe me I have way
higher numbers of things I like about Brazil) the huge disparity between
the rich and poor...has made me pull away from Brazil as the ideal place
to call home. But to each his own. And to all a good night. Have you been
to Salvador?
Everyone
I know who has lived in Sao Paulo speaks well of it, and so I know that
there is a there there. During my short pitstops in Sao Paulo, I was unable
to sense the soul of Sao Paulo from the back seat of a cab.
-Editor
Dear Editor,
Good to get
a conversation going even though we may not always agree. Yes, I was in
Salvador from 1983-85. I share many of your concerns about Brazil
and I appreciate that things can be dicier for female travelers.
Latin America,
including Brazil, has a larger publishing industry than the US by some
measures but of course almost none of it is in English. Yes, people do
read but it is a narrow segment of society. Brazil is more about music,
photography, architecture and visual arts. The best example of an American
expat who was also a literary figure is the late poet Elizabeth Bishop
who lived in Brazil (Rio) with her lesbian partner for 25 years starting
I believe in the 1950's. A new book of her notes and unfinished poems
is just out. She is truly one of the great American poets of the post-war
period.
If your desire
is to live in a free standing house in a safe country with low income disparity
between classes, then you are setting a pretty high bar that will eliminate
most countries. Most Latin American countries, including Argentina, have
wide income disparities.
Uruguay and
Chile probably score best on this measure but they are minor players in
the larger scheme of things. I think you might be describing countries
that suffer from what is called in economics the "Venice" problem-i.e.
aging populations, declining birthrates, stagnant economies, low income
disparity, and big social welfare nets. Venice has a declining population
even though it is still a beautiful place and suffers from all the characteristics
that I have mentioned. In fact, both Japan and Italy would easily
meet your criteria but just try making a living in either country. Same
thing for Sweden.
I disagree
with you about Brazilian women. Status and mobility for many Brazilian
women may be tied to being connected to the right man, even an expat, but
this is true in many countries. In fact, the ability for large numbers
of women to live independent lives both financially and socially is largely
limited to the US and perhaps part of Europe, even though female participation
rates in the professions is higher in the US than almost anywhere else.
Try to read Caetano Veloso's bio that is available in English translation.
A great song writer but also an original intellectual.
Regards,
Charles
From the Editor:
Write
us and share with us the best places you’ve been, the most unusual
and/or best accommodations you’ve found, what you discovered, your inner
and outer revelations...tell us something we don’t already know, and we’ll
publish the best tips, ideas, and experiences of our Escape Artist Travel
readers here. We change all names and reserve the right to edit your letters
as we deem appropriate. |