Those in the know say Ilha de Boipeba today is what Morro de SP was twenty years ago. As an emerging popular tourist attraction, the former is still a rustic spot filled with unspoiled beauty and pristine beaches. Morro de Sao Paulo, on the other hand, can have in high season far more tourists than locals. It has a highly developed nightlife, and a large selection of shops and restaurants along its sandy pedestrian only streets.

Different though they be, their common denominator is ecological awareness.

Ilha de Boipeba, Tropical Eden 
 This island paradise is 100 km. south of Salvador, in the Tinhara Archipelago. The Jesuits founded the first village in 1537, but subsequent development has been stunted due to difficult access. A short plane ride from Salvador to Morro de Sao Paulo Island, you may take a 50-minute jeep ride, and then motor boat to Boipeba, or travel by boat the whole way.

Its rare beauty and eco diversity beckon tourists worldwide. Atlantic rainforests, savannas, dunes and everglades complement the white sand and coconut palms. Coral reefs abounding with colorful tropical fish protect the shoreline from ocean waves and create natural pools.

Shallow wading in warm water seems to extend forever. 

The name Boipeba means flat snake in Tupy Indian dialect and refers to the marine turtles that lay their eggs in the soft sand. Colorful reptiles, especially lizards and frogs repose on walls. Timid tatus - a relative of the possum - and colorful birds play hide and seek in the abundant vegetation.

Pousada Horizonte Azul,  Zen Refuge 
This inn is a perfect haven to rest, reflect and regroup after a day of hiking, beach play or boat adventures. Its
Asia-ophile owners have created Shangri-la in Boipeba. Comfortable rooms of Asian décor are sans television. A meditation kiosk provides an alternative for contemplation or reading.

Buddhist statues adorn niches, waterfalls and alcoves. Yellow and red bromeliads, red and pink hibiscus and several types of palm trees landscaped on the terraced terrain attract local fauna, especially birds, and give tourists an up-close look the island's beauty. The same care  taken in planting the garden, decorating the lodgings and insuring lovely views from each bungalow continues even in the preparation of a delicious breakfast enjoyed in the open-sided lounging area.

Activities on and around the island
The four towns on Boipeba Island are fishing villages. The locals (called nativos) go about their daily lives as they have for decades, at their own pace and happy to show off the island and its marvels. Freeway Tours arranges one day and one-half day trips for visitors. A canoe carved from a single tree trunk takes you into everglades where twisted roots exposed above the water create a surreal setting. Crabs scurry onto the roots fleeing from fish and reptile enemies. Small colorful boats carry tourists on beach tours and to natural pools for snorkeling. The warm water invites you to stay and friendly fish share a mutual curiosity with swimmers. Hikes introduce you to the island terrain, its inhabitants and history. Dona Carmelita teaches you how manioc flour is refined in a mill as old as the hills. Dende oil, ever present in Bahian cooking, is made from palm trees in a gristmill that still uses real horsepower.

Ilha de Boipeba is about simple people living simple lives in a place where time stands still. Hopefully it will remain unspoiled, as ecological tourism strives for a balance - by making it possible to enjoy nature while preserving it. Boipeba isn't for everyone. It's for those willing to venture far off the beaten path in pursuit of a la peaceful experience, harmony with nature, and simple luxury.

Morro Sau Paulo
Morro de Sao Paulo, the more well known of the two islands, has better mainland access than Boipeba and has enjoyed an influx of visitors for over 20 years.

Most tourists are Italians, Argentineans, Chileans, and French with Brasilians being in the minority. Visitors to Morro SP come for different reasons and choose their pousada according to which beach it is near. Each of Morro SP's  four beaches have a distinct personality. The first two beaches with shops, restaurants and tourists, are where the village hustle and bustle is, and where to go to see and be seen. The third and fourth
beaches are secluded, the latter with the best snorkeling on the island.

Villa dos Corais 
What a change in pace from Ilha de Boipeba! My accommodation on Morro de S.P. was the glamorous Pousada Villa dos Corais – a hotel-resort in its physical structure, and a pousada in its friendly atmosphere and staff. White mosaic sidewalks connect two-story duplex houses that spread over manicured lawns.

Several kiosks scattered on the grounds have oversized lounging sofas, perfect for lazy afternoons or evenings. Spacious rooms with high ceilings, air conditioning, cable TV and terraces or patios (depending if you are upstairs or down) with hammocks tempt you to stay right there. The open-sided lounge hosts the reception area and neighbors the large pool with a swim up bar.  The fitness room with sauna, games room and dining area also border the pool.

Villa dos Corais is located between the calm, picturesque third and fourth beaches. The best restaurant on the island is in its backyard backyard. Pimenta Rosa offers several different dining areas: beachside tables, an outdoor deck, and indoor tables under gauze tents with comfortable pillow strewn sofa-benches.

The varied a la carte menu features regional cooking as well as international dishes and light lunches. Try its creative recipes using the small, round red pepper that gives the restaurant its name. Facing the fourth beach, it overlooks white sand, turquoise ocean and coral reefs.

Fort Bahia Marcos Morro de Sao Paulo

Boat rides further familiarize you with nearby islands and corals ideal for snorkeling. A patch of clay cliffs - a stopover where tourists cover their bodies with mud and later rinse in the ocean - breaks up the island's vast vegetation. People pay princely sums for the same mineral rich mud in salons!  Full day cruises take you to Gamboa, a sleepy village where you can lunch at Nativa's Restaurant under shady trees on the shoreline.

The ride ends at the port where you can the colorful sunsets from the historical fort's ramparts. If you are lucky, you may even spot dolphins. Night time brings vendors to the public square in front of a 19th century pink mansion where Emperor Pedro II once lodged. Artisans display local handicrafts, jewelry and homemade delicacies. Stores and restaurants stay open until midnight during high season. As you meander back to the third beach you walk past red booths selling tropical cocktails, each vendor trying to outdo the other with their amazing, extravagant fruit displays. You may have to occasionally dodge the local taxis, which are wheelbarrows pushed by the locals. If you hitch a ride back to your pousada by boat, you'll wade to shore in shallow water since docks are rare. Just go with the flow as they say. 

My thanks to Freeway Brasil and Travel Ace for an unforgettable trip.