A verdant song of sirens comely and enchanting, a sweet, strapping howl ripe with promise and intrigue: those were the sounds that pulled me to Brazil last year. During the three months I was there, I bought a modest but majestic parcel of land and fell in love with a beautiful Brasilera.

Previously, while visiting central Italy, I´d marveled at the simplicity of Italian lifestyle... its social inclusiveness, its lack of obsessive consumerism, the Italian sense of well-being regardless of socioeconomic strata. During my entire stay in Italy, not one Southern European asked me what I did for a living with the underlying (albeit unwitting) intention of putting me in a "box" -- a category -- deeming me fit or unfit for their company and presumed place in an unspoken pecking order subscribed to by so many Americans. In southern Europe, nobody cared about your job, or one's imagined "station" in life, and it was delightful -- their social fabric spun from belonging, inclusiveness, community and the sort of unconditional acceptance one does not find easily in the USA. I'd thought about moving to Italy but real estate in Tuscany and points south to the sea, was very expensive. The ascent and exchange value of the Euro have made these properties even less affordable for Americans.

Returning home from Italy had been major culture shock, being immersed once again in the land of the Jones'...  one and all hard pressed to "keep up" in a republic whose cultural identity is derived, individually, from our possessions, our respective net worth and capacity to consume -- versus identity derived from critical thinking, the realm of ideas, inspiration and the stirrings of our souls. In the aftermath of Italy and its cozy inclusiveness, it was difficult readjusting to the more Darwinian sensibilities of life in the USA.

With the exception of Rio, the references I'd heard to Brazil were virtually all about the north -- Bahia, Salvador, Natal -- hot, tropical jungle and coastline proffering untamed delights. On few occasions however, I encountered travelers returning from the south of Brazil whose social experiences were similar to my own in Italy. But in Brazil, unlike Tuscany, land was said to be affordable.

I was told the south of Brazil and in particular, the state of Santa Catarina was a melting pot with beautiful beaches, a curious mix of Brazilians and Europeans, with a growing economy -- a place in which one could make a life. 

Maybe it was North America´s dubious state of the union, or the promise of a semi-tropical, fruit-laden paradise. Maybe it was (my being a musician) a love of Bossa Nova and the works of late Brazilian composer Tom Jobim -- his genius revered (for me), in the same breath as Einstein, the Beatles and Stevie Wonder. Magical intersections of humanity and God's toolbox. 

Maybe it was all of these things or maybe it was just the sirens' call afterall, a primordial throb. bountiful, ripe and rooted. If Maui is truly the heart of the Great Mother, then Brazil is surely her glorious bunda, though some might argue, her vibrant cleavage, humid and glistening. A briny, savory mist crossing oceans in the guise of salt air and landing at my front door. Spurred by such a compelling invitation, and through a series of what can only be described as synchronous events (an entirely different conversation), all roads pointed south to the Island of Santa Catarina and the city of Florianopolis (flor-ee-uh-NAHP-o-liss) also known as Floripa (flor-REE-puh).

In March 2005, I arrived on a 90-day visa with the intention of staying three months to explore the area and if all felt right, buy land. I had brought all the documentation required for the transaction including birth certificate translated into Portuguese and certified with apostle. 

My path took me straight to the town of Lagoa, one of many beach towns on the Isand of Santa Catarina. Laid back, peaceful, relaxing, and blessed with wonderful nightlife, the town of Lagoa is only a fifteen-minute ride by car to the city of Florianopolis whose downtown is also known as Centro (SEN-troo). Florianopolis is a thriving, compact city with beautiful salt-water views, nice restaurants, plenty of shopping, movie theaters, and a great public market. If you are going to land in Centro and need a hotel for a few nights prior to finding more permanent digs, I recommend Hotel Ibis (about $38 US per night). It has the best combination of amenities, cleanliness, value, location and a pretty good buffet if you don't feel like eating out. Ask for a room as high as possible with views of the bridge and water.

Though I did spend time in Centro, my home base for three months (with the exception of a side trip to Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro and Buzios) was the town of Lagoa da Conceição -- Lagoa (La-GO-uh) for short, whose quaint, easy downtown, also known as Centrinho (sen-TREEN-oo) is surrounded by beautiful beaches or praias (PRY-uh) and a beautiful lake, the town's namesake -- Lagoa da Conceição (con-SAY-sau).

The first order of business was finding a place to live and transportation to explore the island. There are many motels and B&B's, referred to as pousadas (poo-SAH-duh), in and around Lagoa. The more expensive variety are located in Centrinho or near the beaches or situated around the lake, but deals can be found during the off-season (mid-March through November), particularly if you rent by the month. Prices come way down renting by the month. Less expensive accommodations can be found in nearby Barra da Lagoa (tudo coisas boa).

I landed at Pousada Assefaz on Lagoa da Conceico, a 3-minute ride to Centrinho, renting a hotel-style room on a per-night basis for about $14 (US) per night which included a buffet-style breakfast. The view of the lake was great from the hotel rooms and dining room. The staff were very friendly, but the hotel-style rooms were very noisy, particularly in the morning. Assefaz is a conference center so it's geared somewhat to the business community. Lot's of early risers and morning traffic on Rua Vereador Osni Ortega, close to the main building. Also -- very important -- none of the staff at Assefaz spoke fluent English. Though I do think it's important to learn Brazilian Portuguese if you're going to spend significant time in Brazil, I found as an English-speaker, that it is VITAL to have someone onsite at your residence or hotel whom can speak English and help you navigate important issues like transportation, banking, laundry, directions, phone system, postal services, internet services, etc. It will save you hours of frustration, wasting time, dealing with what would ordinarily be effortless, mundane tasks in the USA. You'll also learn more about the local culture from someone whom lives there yet literally speaks your language.

There are several places to rent cars in Florianopolis, but I had arrived at the very end of summer and there was plenty of hot sunny weather to be had so I wanted a motorcycle and was referred to a rental shop called Locomotos at 1462, Av. das Rendeiras (hen-DEE-rus) -- Tel (48) 3232-1717, very close to Centrinho and conveniently on the way to the beautiful beaches of Lagoa www.locomotos.com.br. For a single passenger, the Honda Biz KS 100cc is a great and economical way to tour the island. Reasonable speed and power for the San Francisco-like hills between Lagoa and Florianopolis and a handy storage space for windbreaker and a few small personal items. There is a larger model if you want more speed and power. I rented the bike for a month and it was a great value.

It was at Locomotos that I met the shop's proprietor, a very amiable fellow named Gustavo Tarikian... known to friends and associates as Guga (GOO-guh).  An entrepreneur with interests in a variety of businesses, Guga, like many Floripa residents originally from Sao Paulo, speaks fluent English. He has also lived in the USA and understands our popular culture very well. In a matter of days, Guga became my friend and ally, translator and associate. His knowledge and service were instrumental in my hunt for acreage and eventual acquisition of a land parcel south of Florianopolis on the coastal mainland in a little surf town called Garopaba. 

With Guga's directions, I set off to explore the Island of Santa Catarina, the city of Florianopolis and all the surrounding beach towns. The northern end of the island is by far the most affluent and developed area. The western side of the island, facing inland, and northern coastal areas offer many places to stay and very tranquil surf, a favorite destination for families with young children. Parents can rest easy on bay beaches with waves no more unwieldy than a kiddie pool. The Argentines have been flocking to this part of the island for years. There are many seafood restaurants offering a variety of delights at very reasonable prices. Yachts and sailboats dot the seascape.

The northern end of the island is wonderful to visit, with beautiful vistas and tourist destinations. My favorite places were Brava and Ponta Das Canas. Jurere (joo-roo-RAY) [soft "j" as in Taj Mahal], Ingleses (een-GLAY-zez) and Santinho (san-CHEE-no) are also popular, busy destinations with large resorts and noticeable affluence. Jurere is the Beverly Hills... the Scarsdale of the island. Daniela is nice too. 

Though I enjoyed my visits to this part of the island, it was somewhat upscale and insulated for my tastes which run a little more wild and bohemian. I like the raging surf and edgier ambiance one finds on the central, eastern side of the island, particularly in Lagoa which has a youthful, athletic, adventurous culture. Lagoa boasts great places for traditional surfing, wind-surfing, kite-surfing, hang-gliding, para-gliding and dune surfing. The culture in Lagoa feels more plugged in... turned on... not as sedate as the northern end of the island. Lagoa is closer to the university and Centro so there are more students which add to its relaxed though freewheeling lifestyle and active nightlife.

One place I really liked however, on the west side of the island was the town of Santo Antonio de Lisboa.  Entering town on its sole main street, there are a series of quaint restaurants and shops overlooking the water. At the very end of the main drag, across the street from a park-like piazza is a little shack packed with locals sitting around picnic tables overlooking the bay. It's an oyster shack. You can choose raw or steamed with all manner of condiments. They serve cold beer and the infamous Caipirinha (kai-pe-REEN-yuh)... a drink made with sugar cane liquor called Caçhaca (kah-SHAH-suh), mixed with sugar, crushed lime and ice. I went to this little haven several times to eat oysters and get drunk with the locals, none of whom spoke a lick of English. It afforded the opportunity to practice Brazilian Portuguese and make new friends. When the guy in the shack ran out of oysters, he'd wade out into beds and fill his buckets. Talk about fresh! -- and inexpensive too.

Brazil is all about beach life and no beach is more popular in Lagoa than Praia Mole (MO-lee) with its comfortable sand, strong surf and juice or sucos (SOO-kohs) bars. Açai (Ah-sy-EE) is a very popular juice in Brazil -- a favorite for breakfast. When prepared well it is thick and icy cold like berry sorbet and eaten with a spoon. Loaded with antioxidants and Amazonian nano-vitality, Açai is an amazing cure for hangovers. It is (unlike Lucky Charms) actually magically delicious. There is nothing quite so refreshing as sitting on Praia Mole with an icy cool cup of Açai, people-watching. The views are easily on par with those of Ipanema and Copacabana.

For those into a more natural approach to the great outdoors, just north of Praia Mole is Praia Galheta (ga-LEE-tuh) which is clothing optional. North of Galheta is Praia Moçambique (moh-sam-BEE-kee)... a long, remote stretch of beach less crowded than Praia Mole.

Lagoa's other beach is Praia Joaquina (jua-KEE-nuh) which has a different sort of ambiance. At Joaquina's main entrance, there are several shops and casual sit-down restaurants with nice views of the beach and ocean vista. The lightly batter-fried fish appetizer at the main restaurant rocks. A five-minute walk in a southerly direction toward Campeche, takes one away from the busy entrance to more tranquil sections of the beach.

For Americans, depending on your dietary habits, cuisine in southern Brazil can be a natural fit, or require some adjustments. If you like meat and potatoes, or fish, you're good to go. In the south of the Brazil, carne is king. They love eating meat. Fish and seafood are also abundant, popular and prepared in a variety of ways. Starchy vegetables like potatoes predominate. Carrots, beets and tomatoes are everywhere. Cucumbers make an appearance from time to time. Lettuce tends toward a mild, leafy iceberg variety. If you're into a big selection of greens including spinach, kale, chard, and cabbages like bok choy and Napa, you may be challenged to find these easily with the exception of arugula -- the bitter, flavorful green which is popular and bountiful. In Brazil, the culinary emphasis is on the carne and the fish or seafood. The vegetables seem more of an afterthought. Brazilians derive much of their raw fiber from fruit, which is abundant and delicious. Though there are three good supermarkets in Centrinho -- for items like fresh mushrooms and a wider assortment of vegetables, drive 15 minutes to the giant Angeloni supermarket on Beira Mar Norte. Don't expect a Whole Foods experience, just the best selection of produce to be found in the area. There are Angeloni markets elsewhere in Centro too. 

Check out the sucos bars not just in Florianopolis, but all over Brazil. One can easily make a morning meal of Açai. The other juice varieties and combinations are delicious and refreshing.

If you like big breakfasts, you'll love pousadas whose price includes a bountiful buffet-style breakfast of hot and cold items. For me this was not so important as I preferred to frequent the cafes in Centrinho where one can get a great cup of coffee and a variety of pastries and sandwiches -- variations on a panini. In the heart of Centrinho, there is a Texaco station (posto) with several traditional cafes and internet cafes nearby. During the week in the morning, these cafes are relatively quiet, but fill with patrons in the late afternoon. I generally went to Rocambole, the first of four adjacent cafes and a newstand, sharing outside seating and a very social environment. On the weekend, it is lively and crowded all day. Anyone of these cafes is fine for a light, quick breakfast, but my favorites are just a few blocks from here. Pain du Soleil (walking toward Centro from the Texaco) offers great coffee, French pastries and sandwiches. It is operated by Jean-Marc and his wife. Jean-Marc is from St. Tropez and speaks both French and Brazilian Portuguese. He is also gifted with tile. If you should decide to buy and remodel a home or build a home in the area, check out his work. It is beautiful and he has photos. Jean-Marc speaks some English and likes talking to Americans. He is a gracious host. Pain du Soleil offers covered outdoor seating and off-street parking. Luna Laguna (walking toward the bridge from Texaco) fronts the Via Lagoa Shopping Center and also offers great drinks, pastries, snacks and a lively outdoor terrace. 

Lunch can be had anywhere. I preferred the lunch buffets where one can always find rice, arugula, sometimes cilantro or another green I have yet to identify, tomatoes, and of course meat and fish, along with a variety of stews and potato dishes. Not a huge lover of beans, I didn't eat a lot of Feijoada, a national dish. It's a stew made with black beans and a variety of meats. Though delicious, it is rich and heavy-- something I'd eat after hiking fifty miles in the Arctic, or on a Sunday afternoon curled up on the couch watching the NFL -- quasi nap-time.  The buffets provide the best value and the most variety for lunch. They ensure you'll get your green, leafy vegetable fix on a daily basis if you're eating out a lot.

There are lunch buffets in and around Lagoa. One of the most popular is Rancho da Jackie on the road from Lagoa to Rio Tavares and Campeche. Leaving Centrinho, the road is called Rua Vereador Osni Ortega. As you drive south past the end of Lagoa da Conceição (the actual lake), it is about two minutes up the road on your right side. While many buffets charge by the kilo, Rancho da Jackie is "all you can eat" (buffet livre). It is very popular with locals and tourists alike and a good value. 

On the way to Rancho da Jackie, also on the right, is Rosen's -- a wonderful indoor/outdoor cafe great for breakfast, lunch or a light dinner. The owner's name is Carmen. She speaks English and is very personable. On Monday nights, she hosts a different guest chef who cooks a sit-down gourmet dinner for guests. It's a wonderful place to eat great food and meet new people. I met several English speakers there. 

Pizza also rules in Florianopolis. There's lots of it everywhere in Lagoa. My favorites are Pizza Na Pedra in Centrinho and on the other side of the lake on Rua Laurindo Januario da Silveira -- Nave Mãe and Basilico. Also on the other side of the lake is a Mediterranean restaurant called Villa Magionne with great food and romantic ambience on the lake's edge. 

Rua Afonso Delambert Neto is a street in Centrinho full of restaurants and bars. At night it is busy with young locals and tourists. An upstairs restaurant called Peperoni hosts a pizza buffet. You pay one price and they come to your table every few minutes with different kinds of pizza which they serve by the slice. It's another all-you-can-eat deal. They even serve dessert pizza -- bananas 'n chocolate was great! The upstairs deck has a nice view of the street below. If you're in the mood for carne, across the street is Confraria Chopp da Ilha. All the restaurants and bars on this street are great for people-watching and making friends during the evening. On weekends it rocks till the wee hours.

My favorite Churrascos were at the homes of friends. Lagoa da Conceição and Centro Florianopolis did not appear to have an abundance of great churrasco restaurants or Churrascarias (shoo-hahs-KAIR-uh) -- certainly not as good as Rio de Janeiro nor the amazing assados of Buenos Aires, Argentina. My favorite Churrascaria-style buffet in Centro Florianopolis was Texano Grill at the Beira Mar Shopping Mall, a great place to catch dinner prior to a movie. 

No conversation about Lagoa would be complete without some words about nightlife. Any of the beaches are romantic on a warm summer night... and for such a cozy town, there are many choices for clubs and music. In Centrinho, Confraria (con-fra-REE-uh) das Artes www.confrariadasartes.com is probably my favorite. There is a dance floor with DJ and nice bar, but also a separate area with couches and overstuffed chairs where you can sit in intimate groups and actually hear yourselves talk. Great ambiance, great club. Latitude 27 (La-ti-TOO-jee) is high above the lake with beautiful views www.latitude27.com.br. From Centrinho, it is on the road to Praia Mole on your left near the top of the hill. The outdoor deck is huge, great DJ, big party. For live music, Drakkar (dra-KAR) in Centrinho is great www.bardrakkar.com.br as well as John Bull Pub which features a lot of American-sounding rock bands. If you're heading into Centro, El Divino (dee-VEEN-yoo) on Beira Mar Norte is a dance club and dining experience with an upscale vibe www.eldivinobrasil.com.br. It's fun, but for a more inclusive, casual vibe, check out the Scuna (SCOO-nuh) Bar www.guiafloripa.com.br/scunabar. Great bands and a great crowd, more thirties and forty-somethings and when the band plays tunes that are popular in Brazil, the whole crowd -- EVERYBODY sings! I love this! Be forewarned, if you go to any nightclubs in Brazil before 10 pm or so, they'll be empty. The clubs don't really get going until 11 or 11:30 pm.

On a more practical note, even in paradise, one must check e-mail from time to time and access online services. Unless I'm traveling solely on business, I don't like to carry a laptop and so, rely on local cybercafes for computer time, printing, scanning and internet access, transporting my documents and data on a handy little USB storage device the size of a disposable lighter. Some pousadas have onsite internet access and some do not. Centrinho has three major cybercafes within a block of the Texaco. Several other cafes in the immediate vicinity are also adding internet access. My favorite is Cyber Net, directly across the street from the Texaco on Rua Manoel Severino de Oliveira (www.cybernetlagoa.com.br). The computers work well and have comprehensive programs. Printing, scanning, fax and CD burning services are available along with espresso, juice and soft drinks. What I like most, however is that the owner, Robert (Ro-BAIR), always has someone onsite whom speaks English. Fernanda, Julianna and Caesar (say-ZAR) all helped me on several occasions with computer and mission-critical document-related issues. This would have been nearly impossible had they not spoken English. Again, though I encourage one and all to learn Brazilian Portuguese, important, mission-critical transactions and communications require the assistance of those whom can speak fluent English. 

A few practical tips. Your ATM cards may work at some banks' ATM machines but not others. For a sure bet, use the machines at Bradesco Bank. They're the most modern ATM machines in Brazil. They accept all ATM cards and don't have a problem with long PIN numbers. Also, bring an extra ATM card (well-hidden) in case your primary card craps out or demagnetizes. New policies at many US banks due to new US government regulations make it very difficult for financial institutions to forward replacement credit or ATM cards anywhere but your domestic U.S. street address, or the mailing address listed on the account. I spent hours on the phone, trying to get my bank to send me a replacement debit card. As it turned out, the card I thought was non-functional, simply wasn't compatible with the ATM machines I'd been trying to access, until I found the Bradesco machines which worked everywhere, always.

In the event that you are having problems with ATM machines or need more than your available daily limit, be forewarned, cash advances on ATM or credit cards do not take five minutes at banks in Brazil as they do here in the USA. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours in a bank if you need a cash advance, particularly if it is over $300 US. I advise against trying to do these transactions in Lagoa. The branches are not equipped to do this easily. Go to Centro for all major bank transactions. 

Assuming your USA-based cell phone does not work in Brazil, buy an international pre-paid phone card in the USA with a locked-in rate to and from Brazil and rechargeable minutes. International phone cards purchased in Lagoa (or anywhere in Brazil) will cost you out the wazoo. You can buy a cell phone down there as well but relative to what we pay for minutes and long-distance here, Brazil's rates seem very high. 

To phone Brazil from the USA, dial 0 11 55, and then the city code, followed by the phone number. In Florianopolis, the city code is 48, followed by an eight-digit phone number. Skype is a great way to make phone calls and communicate with Brazilians via the internet. A Skype-to-Skype call between the USA and Brazil is free. You can't beat that. Skype-to-landline or Skype-to-cell is still a fraction of what you pay for conventional long distance minutes. Conventional cell phone calls from the USA to Brazil cost me 30¢ per minute (ouch!)

Also, don't expect to find coin-op laundries like here in the USA. In Brazil, you drop your laundry off at a lavandaria (la-VAN-da-REE-uh) and pick it up the next day. Be prepared to have attendants go through your dirty laundry right there on the counter to identify the number and type of garments you've brought so they can bill accordingly and ensure the return of all items. It's a little unnerving but you get used to it. There's a lavandaria right near the bridge from Centrinho to Rendeiras. They have a great deal... a flat fee for a standard load and they do a nice job... always prompt and they never lose your clothes. 

For the most part, I spent my time on the beaches, and in the restaurants, clubs and cyber cafes of Lagoa and in the homes of friends in Lagoa and due south in the towns of Rio Tavares and Campeche, motoring hither and yon on my bike. I was very happy living in Lagoa with occasional forays into Centro for adventures of a more urban nature. The area around the public market percolates with activity and the city of Florianopolis is totally wired with high-speed broadband.

With Guga's help, our hunt for land began in earnest. Though open to the notion of buying a house, I preferred to buy land and build a house, primarily due to the fact that I am a media producer and like to work from home. Home studios for media production and specifically, professional audio mixing, require unique spatial configurations and audio characteristics one rarely finds in a standard home. 

The sustainable construction and lifestyle modalities I favor also require a good solar footprint, decent soil for gardening, and a good source of water. I wanted to be as close to the town of Lagoa as possible, with nice views of the ocean, lake or countryside at a reasonable price. Though we found a few properties here and there, the bottom line is that Lagoa, Florianopolis and the Island of Santa Catarina have been "discovered" by Paulistas (Brazilians from Sao Paolo), Cariocas (Brazilians from Rio), Gauchos ("gah-OO-shoo" --  Brazilians from Porto Alegre and the state of Rio Grande do Sul), Argentines, Europeans and Americans with the means to buy. Properties on the Island of Santa Catarina are no longer fabulously inexpensive. Million dollar views will cost you mid-to-high six figures (US). The "amazing" deals we'd heard about were not to be found here unless one wanted to live in an area accessible solely by walking trail or boat --  a novel thought for strictly residential or vacation use, but not a practical option for transporting bulky equipment or tools to and from venues or the workplace. Try toting YOUR mixing board, instruments, audio racks and giant speakers by mule or on the local ferry. I don't think so.

Fifteen minutes south of Lagoa, the towns and countryside of Rio Tavares and Campeche are lively and picturesque but are already in a period of rapid growth and development and have experienced a significant rise in property values, climbing annually. Even rural acreage located in more remote locations to the north of Lagoa such as Rio Vermelho (the best soil on the island) are not inexpensive.

If one is hoping for amazing prices on land or houses in and around Lagoa, Rio Tavares, Campeche, or the northern end of the island, don't hold your breath. One should come to Lagoa because they love the lifestyle, the beaches, the restaurants, proximity to Centro and great nightlife. Come for the excitement -- the paragliding, the dune surfing -- come for the fun, and if you want to buy a house, you can certainly find great deals, depending on how much time you have, who you know, and the exchange rates, but don't expect to find something great for nothing. For deals like that on the island, your best bets are probably the rural areas south of Armação. This end of the island is considerably less developed, for now, presenting perhaps, better investment opportunities in the long run, and you'll be well off the beaten path.

There is also the "gringo" factor. In a few cases, when realtors and/or property owners figured out I was American, which happened more or less as soon as I opened my mouth, the cost for properties (originally listed without price) miraculously jumped 20 - 40%. One property owner in Rio Tavares quoted me a price for his acreage at twice the market value just to see if I'd take the bait. The realtors involved had no interest in watching my back. Only Guga watched my back. Take my advice. Be wary of realtors. Find someone whom you can trust, fluent in both Brazilian Portuguese and English, with some knowledge of real estate and have them broker the deal on your behalf.

After a few weeks of searching in and around Lagoa, we hadn't yet found the right piece of land at a reasonable price and so I decided to take a break and travel south to Buenos Aires, Argentina, then back to Rio de Janeiro and Buzios in Brazil. In the meantime, Guga decided to look for parcels of land and send me photos via e-mail.

In preparing for this trip, there were flights, hotels, pousadas, B & B's, shuttles, taxis, and other details to coordinate, all of which I entrusted to Guga's girlfriend, Camila Cintra who co-owns and operates an event planning and travel agency in Florianopolis called América do Sol -- Tel (48) 3224-7707 www.americadosol.com. Camila booked all flights, lodgings, and shuttles. She got me aisle seats on all segments as requested, and ensured flight miles were credited to frequent flyer airline partners in the USA (both of which I had a much harder time doing on my own). Her skills, efficiency and ability to speak English contributed to a flawless, smooth itinerary and worry-free trip for me. Wanting to alter travel plans while in Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro, I contacted her online. She responded promptly by e-mail and took care of everything immediately. If you are planning to travel anywhere in South America, Camila can get you airline ticket prices and hotel rates as good or better than what you can pre-book from the USA. She can book your flight on Brazilian or domestic U.S. airlines providing international service. The best thing is that once you're in South America, you have an ally whom can aid you with new travel plans and/or alterations to current travel plans. Camila provides a very high level of personal service often for less than what you'd pay booking travel arrangements online, by phone or with a travel agent here in the USA. Camila can be contacted online at camila@americadosol.com

Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro and Buzios were amazing. For those of you into real estate purely as an investment, the area in and around the Palermo district of Buenos Aires had amazing deals on residences and commercial properties which will only continue to appreciate and pencil cash flow positive as Argentina grows its economy. There is a growing demand for leased urban housing and commercial space in this very cool area of BsAs. But that is another conversation.

Buzios was a total party experience and completely over the top in every way... outrageously fun, and apparently somewhat dangerous, as was the more infamous Rio de Janeiro (also another conversation). One thing about Rio -- I love Ipanema and could live there in a New York minute if I still wanted to live in a big city. One of the reasons I was curious about Ipanema is its history as the seat of Bossa Nova. Though not one to frequent tourist traps, I spent several evenings at Garota da Ipanema, the cafe where Jobim wrote the famous tune (Girl From Ipanema), and yes, I even bought the tee shirt. 

My only sad moment in Brazil was in discovering that Bossa Nova is not strongly woven into the fabric of contemporary Brazilian pop music culture. I had expected to hear it everywhere and often, yet heard it hardly at all. Though beloved by many, particularly those of age in the sixties when it was at its height, Bossa Nova, though resurgent from time to time and in its own way, ever-present and ever-loved, has for Brazil's youth culture, gone the way of the dinosaur. The youth are far more enthralled with Brazilian hip-hop, American music, and MPB (Music Popular Brazil). 

No Brazilian would ever deny Bossa Nova's beauty -- its uniquely simple, luscious complexity, and though Brazilians revere the artists whom brought this musical genre to life -- for many, their appreciation is one of sentiment and national pride -- the stuff of museums. When one considers the contemporary music scene in Brazil, for all practical purposes, Bossa Nova has gone the way of velvet paintings, Bridget Bardot, and Playboy After Dark. One Brazilero in Rio observed that other than in Ipanema, I could probably get Bossa Nova gigs more easily in American and European cities than one could in Brazil. Cruel irony -- like finding out there's not one single chocolate chip cookie to be had in the land of Keebler. "Oh yeah", spat the elf, like a little green David Spade workin' his snotty, "We bake'm and ship'm but nobody here actually eats them."  With only six weeks left on my visa, and a non-changeable, non-refundable plane ticket, it was time to go back to Floripa and resume the search for land. 

Returning to Lagoa, I knew I wanted two things, a real apartment with a kitchen so I could cook dinner at home -- and a car. The weather had started to change -- growing cooler and wetter. I looked at several pousadas all over Lagoa, and as it turned out, needed look no further than next door to Duna Sol -- Tel (48) 3232-6666 www.dunasol.com.br on Rua Veriador Osni Ortiga -- a pousada/resort with cabanas complete with bedroom, bathroom with walk-in shower, kitchen with gas stove, refrigerator, and a cozy, sunlit living room with big sliding glass doors. The kitchens are well-stocked with pots, pans, etc. and whatever you don't have and need, they find in minutes. Being one who loves to cook Italian food and in particular, pasta or massa (MAH-suh) as the Brazilians say -- for the first time since I'd left the USA, I had a big saute pan and a gas stove. Bam! 

I rented a cabana at Duna Sol for a month at about R$750 (Reis or Reals) which at the exchange rate during May 2005 was about $300 U.S. per month or $10 per day U.S. (including utilities).

The cabanas are arranged adjacently on either side of a narrow, European-style street so guests with cars can pass. The entrance is gated and observed from the lobby so only guests or their guests can enter. The single street is like a friendly neighborhood which livens up every weekend when guests fill any vacant cabanas. Given that I was there during the fall, things were a little more tranquil. There were fewer of us living there fulltime which made for a cozy, intimate neighborhood. My Parisian neighbor across the way and his Brazilian girlfriend were entertaining to say the least and the source of many parties and gatherings and fabulous drama. It was through them that I met my love, Patricia. As I write this article, we are applying for her visa so she can join me in the United States.

Each cabana has a television, though avid TV watchers will only find American/English language channels in the lobby, which also has a computer, convenient internet access and an assortment of beers, juice, soft drinks and snacks that can be charged to your apartment. There is also internet access available from the rooms. Duna Sol has a swimming pool (which often served as my morning wake-up ritual), a small gym, and party facilities -- a very nice banquet hall which offers a full breakfast buffet every morning. From the rear of the property's pleasant grounds, one can take a 20-minute hike through the dunes and emerge onto a tranquil section of beach at Praia Joaquina. It's a ten-minute walk up the beach to the restaurants, etc. Duna Sol is also only a three-minute ride to Centrinho and has a great view of the lake. It is also close to Rosen's, Rancho da Jackie, and Velho Tiene Pizzaria... good inexpensive pizza. 

Another excellent feature about Duna Sol, however, is the owner, Bianca Freitas whom lived in London for a time and speaks fluent English. Her presence made life much easier, unraveling the little mysteries of daily life and making them understandable in English. Accessible and patient, she went out of her way to help guests non-fluent in Brazilian Portuguese. Among other things, she helped me negotiate an auto rental agreement with a man whom spoke only Brazilian Portuguese. His company, Barcellos -- Tel (48) 9982-0173 www.barcellos.net has the best cars for the lowest prices in Lagoa. Several people I met whom were renting cars from other rental agencies were often inconvenienced by mechanical problems. I rented a 2-door Fiat Palio with low miles, for a month. It ran very well and had no problems whatsoever. The rental cost for a month including insurance and all fees was $950 reis or per May 2005 exchange rates, $385 US.

Bianca is also a gifted chef with an interest in high end, gourmet restaurants. She showed me several examples of profitable, exclusive restaurants thriving all year round in Lagoa and Florianopolis. A proven and successful caterer of special events in Florianopolis, Bianca is considering partnership with foreign investors on a gourmet restaurant in Floripa. If you have an eye on becoming an expat in Florianopolis and/or making an investment in the Brazilian economy (yielding the eventual benefit of a residency visa), Bianca Freitas is a talented, hard-working entrepreneur with local and regional connections, worthy of your attention. Bianca can be contacted at bibicafreitas@hotmail.com", pousadadunasol (Skype), and dunasol_floripa@hotmail.com"  for MSN live chat. Inquiries regarding Cabanas Duna Sol can be sent to dunasol@dunasol.com.br.

Ensconced in my new digs at Duna Sol, the hunt for land was resumed with Guga. We visited the parcels he had located while I was away and they were very nice, but either not exactly what I wanted, or outside what I considered reasonable in price. 

Also it is important to note that there are currently two different types of property deeds in Brasil, particularly on the Island of Santa Catarina. The more desireable of the two is called "Escritura Pública" which is an official deed legally documenting one's ownership of property whether one is a Brazilian citizen or the citizen of another country. There are no loopholes or grey areas. Nobody can emerge from the ethers ten years after you've built your house and claim a historical familial attachment to the land. With Escritura Pública -- you buy it, you own it. 

The other type of deed is called "Posse".  If you're considering purchasing property that is "posse", check its history back to the original survey. Make sure there are no conflicts regarding ownership. If everything is in order and there are no potential problems, the property is considered "good posse". If there are grey areas and potential for conflicts regarding ownership, access or easements, that is considered "bad posse" "Good posse" properties, though a tad more risky, are generally a safe bet and good investment. There is legislation in process to re-designate all "posse"-designated property to Escritura Pública status. Stay away from any property that could be "bad posse". Due diligence is the key. 

One day Guga and I looked at a parcel in Rio Vermelho (ver-May-yoo) and I commented on the adjacent parcel which was not for sale but had these smooth, rounded, gargantuan rock formations. I had seen formations like this on the coast, evoking images of Pterodactyls and the Flintstones. Some of these beaches, fairly narrow, had thick tropical vegetation on the inland side and hills climbing steeply up and away. Attempting to relax in the sand, I'd keep one eye on the surf and the other occasionally scanning the flora for velociraptors. Having had nightmares following Jurassic Park, I didn't want to fall prey to the creature that ate Jerry Seinfeld's mailman. If you saw the movie you know the one. The spawn of Creature from the Black Lagoon and Caesar Romero's Joker.

Be that as it may. I loved those giant rock formations whose gargantuan beauty dispelled any preoccupation with predators of primordial origin. They weren't like the sharp, rugged coast of Maine with occasional highlands that make you want to put on a sweater and eat mutton. These were rounded and benign, easily traversed, sculpted smooth by aeons of insistent surf. Now ancient and majestic, their shapes have long since passed from harbingers of carnosaurs, to smooth stony bellies of supine, laughing Buddhas.

"Aahhhhhhhhhh, Brad", said Guga, "Garopaba (GA-roh-PAH-buh). You'll want to check out Garopaba." A less developed, somewhat reclusive cousin of Lagoa on the mainland approximately 40 minutes south of Centro, Garopaba would have the big rocks and better prices. Internationally renown as one of Brazil's finest surfing destinations and like Lagoa, offering some of the country's best wind-surfing and kite-surfing, Garopaba has etched its quiet reputation as a popular travel destination, with three primary beaches, and several smaller ones -- one of which is at the end of Garopaba's main avenue. A resting place for fishing boats and a stroll beneath rolling hills crowned by an ancient church. The beach opens up onto a broad inlet and the Atlantic ocean. One friend of mine whom visited Garopaba commented that it was what Santa Barbara might have looked like 60 years ago.

The main avenue offers some restaurants and cafes with casual ambience and good food. Other tourist amenities can be found including cybercafes. New development is on the way, including a small, intimate shopping destination with cafes and a multiplex. 

The town of Garopaba is a ten-to-fifteen-minute drive from the only highway, BR 101, linking Porto Alegre in the south, to Florianopolis due north. When the renovation and expansion of this highway are complete, the trip from Garopaba to Centro should take considerably less time.

The most famous beach in Garopaba is Praia da Rosa (HO-suh), which draws many surfers and young people. The atmosphere is festive and casual, with a restaurant/bar overlooking the beach. The surrounding area is a rolling hive of curvy gravel roads dotted with pousadas, cafes and amenities geared toward the surfing crowd. Reggae, raves and their associated cultural amenities are part of the local culture. This area is also home to Brazil's leading manufacturer of surf gear, apparel and accessories, Mormaii. Mormaii owns and operates a very cool cafe next to its retail store on the main avenue in Garopaba.

Patricia & Brad
Patricia and I set out one fine morning to explore Garopaba. We both immediately liked the quaint though up-and-coming, progressive vibe of the town and drove around until a synchronous event -- an apparent "coincidence", gave us pause at the entrance to a place selling parcels of land, with water and electricity ready for each lot. Compelled, we turned into the entrance until our car's passage was blocked by a gate. Nobody was in sight so we parked and walked up the road, climbing a hill, until we stopped and surveilled the valley and lake below. This was very promising so we wrote down the phone number and continued on through downtown Garopaba, past Garopaba Beach to the most upscale neighborhood in the area, a promontory overlooking the Atlantic with a few small parcels and more expensive-looking homes. Though this area was both quaint and beautiful, it was also expensive -- Garopaba's answer to Tiburon.

Returning to where we'd parked and climbed the hill, we continued on by car to Praia Ferrugem about 7 minutes up the road. Ferrugem was large and open, fluid and changing with the tides. There were meandering nooks and crannies. Private places and beautiful, giant rock formations. We climbed a large one and observed the surf crashing below. It was poetic -- a great place to set up an easel or write Hemingway's next novel. We stood there silently for some time, holding hands. It was pristine but the sun was going down and we wanted to see Praia Silveira so off we went.

Praia Silveira is just over the hill from where we'd parked and climbed the hill earlier in that day. It was more of a neighborhood beach tucked in between a pair of promontories -- narrower than Ferrugem, with more traffic. Houses dotted the hills surrounding the beach. Though not even remotely Tolkienesque, it felt a little Shire-like (but with clambakes and internet access). This was getting interesting. 

Back in Floripa, I gave the phone number we'd written down, to Guga who spoke (in Portuguese) to Emilio, the seller's agent and manager of what is actually a low-key gated community with a clubhouse for parties and community gatherings. Guga arranged a meeting and off we went to Emilio's home office onsite. Greeting us at the gate, we followed Emilio in our vehicle way up the hill (well past where Patricia and I had walked) on nicely paved roads, to the highest road on the ridge, upon which were several 1/2 acre lots for sale with amazing views of the valley and lake below. It was awesome. Emilio pointed out a lot with a gentle slope at the top, fairly easy to build on and that was that. I knew this was my land. We settled on a price and set the deal in motion.

With a little paperwork and Guga's help, I acquired a Brazilian CPF number which one must have to execute any type of financial transaction in Brazil. It is similar to our social security or Tax ID number. It requires a trip to the Brazilian Receita Federal, then Banco do Brasil to pay a minimal fee, and then back to the Receita Federal to complete the transaction and apply for a CPF card. Even without the card, just having an assigned CPF number gives one the ability to buy or sell property in Brazil. 

The details of our deal went quickly and smoothly, resulting in a trip to the local Cartorio to meet Emilio, transfer the deed and pay the requisite fees. I am now the happy owner of this beautiful land high on a hill overlooking the valley and Lagoa Encantada (Enchanted Lake). Behind me, up and over the hill, and a couple of minutes south, is Praia Silveira.

Though my lot is only half an acre (2000 sq. meters), it will easily accommodate a nice sized home and studio, terraced vegetable gardens and fruit trees, with room for a small pool and churrasco. The topography is such that no matter how high my neighbor below decides to build (within height restrictions of the community), I will never lose the view of this beautiful valley. In spite of the lot's minimal size, the vastness of the views make it feel really big. 

The transaction was completed only days before my return flight to the USA and I wait now for Patricia to join me here. We will remain here in the USA awhile so I can grow a media publishing venture -- music, animation and video-based. As things progress, I hope to start building a home and studio on our hill in Garopaba and spend significant time there every year.

I must share that I could not have done this without Guga and paid him a commission accordingly. He has since gone on to help other aspiring expats with real estate forays in the area. For $50 per day US, against commissions, Guga is available to assist with real estate acquisitions in Florianopolis and Garopaba. He is also a native son of Sao Paulo and familiar with that market. His fee includes finding properties within your criteria and desired locale; accompanying you to look at those properties or other properties you may have found on your own; conveying questions to the seller and/or seller's agent; negotiating your deal; helping you acquire appropriate permits, bank accounts, CPF number, etc.; and transferring your documents at the Cartorio (car-TOR-ee-oh). I highly recommend his services to anyone thinking about real estate in or near Florianopolis and Garopaba. Guga can be contacted at (48) 8822-4212 or realestate@brturbo.com.br

Brazil is growing and developing its economy. The good news is that though the country is developing its infrastructure and seeking its place on the world economic stage, the Brazilians, culturally, don't obsess 24/7 about "to-do" lists and work work work.... They don't define themselves solely by their careers or assets. They know how to slow down, set work aside, enjoy friends and family and live the life tranquillo. 

Brazil is edgy, spicy, overt, and at times totally in your face. I saw passion and ferocity -- humor, warmth and solidarity -- unbridled sensuality, and much love and kindness. Brazil and her people look to the future with wonder and enthusiasm. 

So go see the beautiful state of Santa Catarina, the Island of Santa Catarina, the city of Florianopolis, the town of Lagoa da Conceição, and just off the beaten path, the little surf oasis of Garopaba. These areas offer promise to the entrepreneur and adventurer. It's about finding your niche here and making a life. Now is the time. 

© Brad Leigh 2006. All rights reserved.